Prototype Whip

[Elijah Rakestraw]

Cani create a custom programmer, I saw some guides for cheap opensource arm debuggers that work with the nrf51822, I also was told somewhere that I need a segger programmers the 4 pin one seems to be $1000, whats that about?

You can whip up a custom connector but I don't recommend it, debugging interfaces run at high speed and stray capacitance, long cables, different lengths and other factors mean a properly specified connector helps. Apart from that you can attach a number of standard debuggers/programmers to standard connectors.

No nothing is going to integrate into MPlab, you can close that and put it away, you will need entirely different tools for this. You'll need Keil or IAR or some people use Eclipse, Segger has Segger Embedded Studio, I use Crossworks, you can even use gcc from the command line. You're going to be doing some reading for a while.

Why get a dev kit? First of all, they run all the examples nordic publishes in their SDK, all the bluetooth samples, all the device driver samples, this will save you about a billion years of time getting up to speed. Secondly they aren't very expensive. Thirdly they come with a Segger programmer built right into the board which will do debug out, ie you can use it to program your 3rd party board later, at least non-commercially. So you get a complete kit with buttons, LEDs, USB interface and a free Segger all for $40 which is designed to get you up to speed as soon as possible.

If you are doing it non-commercially then Segger does sell the JLink EDU for about $60 (if I remember correctly). I have one, it's quite nice to have a standalone JLink although as I said the dev kit will act as a pass-through segger to program a custom board.

You can use ST-Link with openocd, you can use the CMSIS-DAP adaptor Nguyen sells (his message above mine). Advantages of using Segger are that's what Nordic uses, that's what's built into their boards, if you use the free (again non-commercially free) Segger Embedded Studio to do your programming then that uses Segger of course. So if you can use Segger, use it, it's one more thing you don't have to fiddle with, it just works.

i think you have to absorb someone in a base to do it but don't quote me on that. but what you do is lock on, press B to grab, then B again to reel yourself in. then you'll see the Y prompt to hijack. unless you land on the tail. then you press A to jump to the wing, then A again to jump to the cockpit. and if the helicopter is low enough, you don't even have to jump first.

First purchase the upgrade then take out the whipfist lock on to a helicopter by holding down LT then hold B down and let go. If your guy doesn't latch on then move closer to the helicopter or jump in the air.

I tried to hijack a chopper without it and I could never get just B to work, what did work without longshot, (though it does damage the chopper) is to target a chopper, Jump as high and as close to it as you can, then tap x to go in for the kick, when you connect, hit B.

in the last times the telescopic whip antennas appear on the summits, The possiblility of make contacts with a 1.4 meters long antenna and without deploying a mast and 20 meters of wire is interesant, of course.

I need to whip up a quick prototype and think arduino is the way to go. Wondering which model is the smallest one that will allow me to control 8 LEDs independently.

I like the Arduino Pro Mini, about $2-3 from EBAY

Well now, that depends on why you want to create your "own strip" rather than one ready-built. Using the WS28xx series you only need one or two pins to control an extremely long chain of individually controllable RGB LEDs, so 8 is no trouble at all. The form you want are those with the control IC integrated into the LED chip, so you can get the naked chips

or chips mounted on minimal PCB

or larger assemblies.

Your choice.

Smaller than a pro-mini: an ATtiny85. This could drive up to 20 leds (one at a time) using a technique called Charlieplexing. These would be single-colour leds. The leds could blink/flash, even fade in a pre-programmed sequence.

Regarding the question about creating my own strip of addressable LEDs; the reason I want to do this is because I need to use a particular SMD LED and I need to have them spaced at a very specific distance apart on the PCB. Am hoping to run them all in one circuit instead of 8 to cut down on the wiring needs.

Ideally, you want something like a discone or similar for omnidirectional listening, mounted as high as possible. This is not always possible or practical, however. SWLing Post contributor Ron recently reviewed the indoor Planespotter antenna, and I have one as well that works better than any rubber ducky, and can be easily hidden away when company comes.

The indoor version definitely works best on the VHF air band and seems to roll off aggressively above and below that band. The outdoor version, in side-by-side tests, seemed to perform the same on the air band but notably better on the VHF public safety band. It also pulled in more UHF air band traffic than the indoor model, despite being basically the same design.

Disclosure: The outdoor prototype was supplied to me for free in exchange for a review. While taking more photos of the antenna I noticed the weatherproofing had come undone from the bottom. Hopefully this issue can be addressed before the antenna goes into production.

the build should not take more than 20 minutes, assuming one has collected all the bits and pieces, for the upper half of the antenna, use a piece of stranded, insulated wire soldered to the center conductor of the coax and pick a pipe longer than needed, say 1/3 more, the bottom part will be useful to hold the antenna tona pole, if needed, the remainder is pretty straightforward

Wow! I bet there is a ton of interesting activity in that region. There are no major airports where I live, but we still manage to have a pretty active air band scene thanks to several small airports as well as all kinds of military flight activity from Pensacola Naval Air Station and Eglin AFB. I can only imagine how busy it can be on those flight routes around you, though.

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Although, Jerry Bailey, HOF jockey, was discussing the use of the whip debate on one of the broadcasts of the KY Derby prep races, and said that he used to be in favor of keeping use of the whip in racing, but has now changed his position and thinks it should be removed. And he is as qualified as any to offer an opinion, so there is that.

Anyone else use an original matarelli whip finisher? I bought one last week. It's a really nice tool. A little bit expensive ($15) but it's definitely the best WF tool I've ever used. And yes I can tie a WF by hand but I prefer using a tool.

I also use the original Matarelli whip finisher. It certainly is amazing how much better a top qaulity tool can make your fly tying pleasure. Mine is 25 years old and cost about $5 when I purchased it if I remember correctly.

It's an amazing design and so well thought out. How someone managed to work it all out and come up with it is beyond me. Should be right up there with the invention of the lightbulb. penicillin and the wheel.

I agree with you - I get better (and faster) results with the tool too. But if you are using a copy - you might try using the original. I have a couple of copies that look just like the original too. I wasn't unhappy with them but after using a genuine matarelli I wouldn't go back.

I have to disagree with those that feel the hand is a better whip finisher than the Matarelli tool. One of the most ingenious features of Frank's design is that it is the only whip finish tool (including one's hand) that does not put a twist in the thread with every turn of the thread around the hook shank. Thus, if you un-twist the thread before you make the whip finish you can literally "paint" the floss like thread onto the head and create a smooth head that looks like it was burnished floss. No other whip finish tool including the hand can do this.

I still have one of the original 5 prototype long reach whip finishers made by FM. I happened to be in Bill Hunter's shop years ago and he showed me the new design,,,,took some time but I talked him into selling me one of the prototypes.

Here you go. The top two are the commerical versions. The next two were gifts from Frank he made the wooden handles out of the wood used to make violin bows and which I can not remember the name of. The small one is a midge version and as far as I know there were only 12 ever made. Frank made these all by hand bending without jigs as he only made the one set. It is 1.75 inches total length with a working gap of 9/16 inch. You might notice that in the ones he made as gifts he also added a thread cutter on the back end of the main shaft, something that was never offered on the commerical models. The envelope is how they were packaged for sale in the 1980's.

More precisely, while WHIP works under the assumption that the client will always provide an SDP offer, and the server an answer to that, in a single HTTP exchange, in WHEP there are two different modes of operation:

Both modes have pros and cons. The first mode has the advantage of completing the negotiation process in a single HTTP exchange, thus reducing the Round Trip Time (RTT), but also forces the client to allocate resources for any codec they support, independently of what the WHEP endpoint actually provides (e.g., allocating both audio and video for an audio-only stream, or allocating a dozen of video codecs when the WHEP endpoint only provides one); the second mode requires two HTTP exchanges to complete (one to ask for the offer, and one to provide the answer), but has the advantage of leaving the initiative on negotiation to the server, which knows how the stream is encoded and as such can constrain the process accordingly.

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