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Coleman John
You also need to check for Accept SIP Trust Server Only, as it may (should) reject if it's enabled (you can enable Direct IP calls but with this on it'll reject without whatever vendor nonsense is done for validity checking; it usually requires the SIP registered server to validate, thus blocking it, even if the SIP registration is on another line, or if you don't have one!).
My house is fitted with LED downlights however they replaced the old fittings so they have a 150mm cut out. None of the smart lights I have seen come in this size. Is there anything on the market that can make these smart lights that intergrate with home assistant?
You can install 'inline' units which have a switching wire linked to them, but are put near the 'first light' (the one with the switching cable). Shelly and a few other brands have switching wires on the units, but I think they're all WiFi only.
I don't actually use HAOS (my installed is Supervised), and I lost mine as part of a Debian update/upgrade (due to weirdness with how it handles the BIOS/boot phase). When it does work, the latest monthly update won't detect it properly. (I know how to make it work on the hardware level.) My dev installs, which use HAOS, lost it though.
Sounds like you would be looking at things like a shelly or zigbee in-line relay. There are many options. My personal preference is to make the smart bit the switch rather than the light, because smart lights can be nullified by dumb switches, but not the other way around.
For individual lights, where the switch is rarely touched, or it can be hidden, it's often cheaper to drop in a smart bulb. For example: I have an IKEA Fado with a Hue bulb in it. But at some point the cost of control (switch/dimmer) over bulbs tilts heavily in favour of the switch.
Yeah, but SIP is crappily documented in virtually everything (Cisco are fine, but they basically run the standard). Every vendor does things slightly differently, but the protocol interoperates. It's almost certainly a trust exclusion/blocker somewhere (if Direct IP is enabled); either HA is blocking it (in which case it's in HA's logs, or the Add-on logs), or it's the VoIP device.
In terms of pricing, Shelly units are probably much of muchness with Robus, and Shelly have a direct integration with Home Assistant. If you can, go Plus or Pro (Pro only if you want it in an electrical subboard/subpanel, and only really if you want ethernet). Plus and Pro are updated to use newer hardware and will get a Matter update (which may make interoperation easier for you in the future if you jump between cloudless platforms but still want cloud support).
Edit: so if I add the Shelly intergration to HA when these are wired in they should be discoverable straight away? Also if I have my lounge with four switches on the plate and a dimmer for one area would these still work?
I believe both wired (ethernet, so in the panel) or wireless (all types) should turn up as discoverable, but you can press 'Add Integration' anyway. I'd give them a static/fixed IP in the router. (The only Shelly device on the same network as HA doesn't run the Shelly OS anymore.)
So if you stick two Shelly Plus 2PM units behind a panel, yes, they'll generally be fine for signal (provided you have wireless signal there in the first place). For the Pro units, it has to run from a subboard/subpanel, and at that point you'd use ethernet for them.
My outside lights (9 of them) are smart globes (Zigbee). But sometimes using a manual switch is better, so I have one of those portable Zigbee buttons as well which I've programmed to turn on the specific lights we are most likely wanting a manual switch for.
If this is just for mains (grid monitoring), Carlo Gavazzi. But if you've got solar, then get whatever pairs with the meter (i.e. can be configured for export limiting), as you might as well (unless you don't care, in which case CG). If you're okay with CT clamps which are possibly the better/cheaper options.
Anything with Modbus/TCP, Modbus/RS485, or a networking API will do. Carlo Gavazzi have both ethernet and RS485 options for Modbus, so you'd either need to get an ethernet connection or an ESP32 (or whatever) connected to it.
It looks as if HA is erroring. There is an index out of range error parsing the SIP message. Probably the YeaLink isn't sending the data expected to HA and something is returning a null value when an array is expected. I'm not sure if I I'm going to dig into it more. (I've got a big list of data to extract for a software vendor by Monday).
In which case, unfortunately, there's no good answer there. If you want to monitor all incoming and outgoing power, then there are plenty of meters which will do it. But how easy they are to interface with Home Assistant is pretty wildly variable. And to make matters a little more annoying, energy monitoring doesn't seem to matter that much to people in Australia, so a lot of products just never get certified (though that's not a huge problem for CT clamp approaches).
The third kind is what's installed with solar. So if you were thinking of getting solar, this is basically on the list of things you'll end up with. You can also go your own way and install one without solar.
CT clamps are the norm for most people here. As much as I grumble about them, they work, and they work fine. If an electrician is installing them (which is, technically, how it's legally meant to be done), then the safety of them is negligible. (There are rules about disconnection and connection order, but otherwise nothing to worry about it.) The IoTaWatt is well loved by people, and it's probably the best commerical option here. (Some electricians are super weird about clamps, but there are other models they like well enough to install; but those who are weird about clamps generally just want you to use a direct/inline meter, because legally you definitely can't mess with it!)
I'm using an Iammeter WEM3080 ( -datasheet) and finding it rock solid in my current config using Modbus/TCP over WiFi.
Originally, I did find Modbus flaky on RPi so used the Home Assistant integration on that without any issues.
I'm now on an old i3 and Modbus is working great.
It does need to be installed in the main switchboard by a sparky but it's a quick and easy job so shouldn't cost much.
Locally supplied if ordered direct through Iammeter store. I received mine in under a week.
The Iammeter looks good, so does the shelly
I'm not looking to install solar or measure output to the grid
Would a shelly EM do the job? Or is there an upside to paying more for the immeter (other then the din style mounting)
Both are actually DIN mounted and installed in the same manner.
If you have an internal switchboard, then either are a good choice. If your switchboard is external, then I'd suggest the Iammeter (60 C rating) over the Shelly (40 C rating).
There's also the Shelly 3EM and the Pro 3EM, but they're advertised as 3 phase
Is there any benefit to buying these? like treating the other phases as separate channels and using them to monitor different circuits?
Would you know if both can be fed into the energy dashboard in HA?
Iammeter has an intergration through hacs, but i wanted to use the HA dashboard
Sorry if these questions are stupid i'm not too familiar with the setup
This gives a synchronised timing for readings.
I didn't have room in board for the extra poles so use the Solar reading from the inverter, Grid reading from the Iammeter and calculate the load from that.
Since the Solar (slow) and Iammeter (fast) report at different rates, the readings go all over the place.
For this I need to use custom statistical sensors to bring it together.
Far better if everything just aligned without custom sensors.
Thank you guys
In my case I don't have solar nor do I intend to get it
I'm also not interested in monitoring multiple circuits
Would you guys recommend the Iammeter or the Shelly EM?
I like the Iammeter for its din rail mounting option, and the shelly EM for its cheaper price :)
Much of muchness. If the Shelly Pro 3EM were available here, I'd say that; the Shelly 3EM is the first gen version (nothing wrong with it other than it lacks ethernet and doesn't look as pretty ... for all of us who actually look in the board/panel enclosure).
Given how weird a lot of electricians are about CT devices, you may be better off with one which sits on the rail. The added benefit there is that you'll be able to visibly see if something goes wrong (status LEDs, whereas the basic Shelly EM would be behind the board). To that end, probably the IAMMETER, but just because the Pro 3EM isn't here, and the external antenna may matter to your use-case/accessibility.
I imagine that they'll come here in due course. Having Ethernet is a marked difference, and they are much prettier than the 3EMs. My 3EMs have quite a poor signal (between -70 and -75dBM) despite being 5m away from an AP because they are in a metal enclosure. They work just fine, but they have an excellent Wifi environment around the meter box. I think in a weaker Wifi environment, they'd struggle.
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