Caged 2011 English 135
Latrisha Adan
Photocaged oligonucleotides allow for the spatial temporal control of biological processes. In their caged form, the oligonucleotides are unable to participate in base pairing. It is only after exposure to non-invasive light that the native oligonucleotide is released.
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Caged compounds are light-sensitive probes that functionally encapsulate biomolecules in an inactive form. Irradiation liberates the trapped molecule, permitting targeted perturbation of a biological process. Uncaging technology and fluorescence microscopy are 'optically orthogonal': the former allows control, and the latter, observation of cellular function. Used in conjunction with other technologies (for example, patch clamp and/or genetics), the light beam becomes a uniquely powerful tool to stimulate a selected biological target in space or time. Here I describe important examples of widely used caged compounds, their design features and synthesis, as well as practical details of how to use them with living cells.
MNI-caged-L-glutamate is a form of glutamate linked to a photo-protecting group, 4-methoxy-7-nitroindolinyl (MNI); it rapidly and efficiently releases L-glutamate (Cat. No. 0218) by photolysis (300 - 380 nm excitation) with a quantum yield in the 0.065-0.085 range. It is also suitable for use with two-photon uncaging microscopy (cross-section of 0.06 GM at 730 nm). MNI-caged-L-glutamate is optically compatible with other chromophores used for fluorescence imaging, such as GFP, YFP and most Ca2+ dyes. MNI-caged-L-glutamate is 2.5-fold more efficient at releasing L-glutamate than NI-caged L-glutamate. MNI-caged-L-glutamate is water-soluble, stable at neutral pH, highly resistant to hydrolysis and pharmacologically inactive at neuronal glutamate receptors and transporters (up to mM concentrations). MNI-caged-L-glutamate can be used for in situ studies of fast synaptic glutamate receptors.
The following data is based on the product molecular weight 323.3. Batch specific molecular weights may vary from batch to batch due to the degree of hydration, which will affect the solvent volumes required to prepare stock solutions.
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Major depressive disorder is characterized by depressed mood and a loss of interest and/or pleasure. Updated in 2015 this poster highlights presynaptic and postsynaptic targets for the potential treatment of major depressive disorder, as well as outlining the pharmacology of currently approved antidepressant drugs.
Parkinson's disease (PD) causes chronic disability and is the second most common neurodegenerative condition. This poster outlines the neurobiology of the disease, as well as highlighting current therapeutic treatments for symptomatic PD, and emerging therapeutic strategies to delay PD onset and progression.
I've got this caged ladder we have been using but it's wall based positioning. Is there a way to make it so it doesn't require a "wall" to place it? I don't want to just "hide" the wall and call it good.
Ahmed Muharram, B.Sc, AEE, ACI, ACP
BIM Manager
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Then you have a family without the wall. It probably will carry over some of the parameters. But you will need to fix it and add in lost constraints and dimensions. Might save some work compared to start from scratch
I've tried Toan's suggestion and it doesn't work. When I get to the part where I have to copy/monitor the link, I can select the link but I can't copy just the ladder. I followed the video as well and again, when I get to the copy part, I can't select the ladder itself.
RuBi-Glutamate is a novel caged-glutamate compound based on ruthenium photochemistry, which allows for clean and fast photorelease and higher specificity than previous caged glutamate compounds. RuBi-Glutamate enables the activation of neuronal dendrites and circuits with visible or two-photon light sources, achieving precision at the level of single cells and dendritic spines1. View datasheet.
RuBi-GABA is a novel caged-GABA compound that uses a ruthenium complex as photosensor. It can be excited with visible wavelengths therefore providing the advantages of greater tissue penetration, less photo-toxicity, and faster photo-release kinetics than other UV light-sensitive caged compounds. It is suitable for GABA receptor mapping, and optical silencing of neuronal firing2. View datasheet.
Also I thought of asking this because I noticed my front wheel was making quite a bit of vibration when spinning so I opened it up and added one more ball bearing to each side as there were only 9 in each side even though I surely remember taking out 10 from both sides when replacing an axle in the past. After this, the wheel would not move at all as each ball would rub on eachother so I left it with 9 balls each side, but I still don't feel right about the fact that there is some space between each ball in the hub. This is why I thought it might be a good idea to switch to caged ball bearings. Is the space between each ball a problem or am I overthinking it?
Some front hubs can take 10 balls, it depends on the design. You need to figure out which size your hub requires - presumably the majority of your balls are still the original size. If you can measure that then figuring out, or asking the LBS, or asking here in another question with photos, how many to put in, should get the hub running smoothly again.
In my 35 years experience as a professional mechanic. The old style 3 piece bottom bracket does last longer with cages even if the number of balls is only 9 of course 11 caged balls work better but not all bottom brackets work with the flat 11-ball cages because the cage will be in contact with the bearing surface in the less expensive ones. I believe the problem with loose balls in the bottom bracket is that the low rotational speed causes the balls to bunch up and wear the spindle more at the high-load area of the stroke during rotation. This area is noticeable at the next overall. This is mostly relevant for vintage bicycles now. One can remove the cage and use loose balls in the lower stack of the head set for better loading and wear but it's preferable to keep the cage for this will allow the head set to run freer. If you have a very short stack then go loose top and bottom because the short head tube has heavy load on the kitty (opposing) corners. Hubs almost always use loose balls it's best to check the manufacturer if possible because the remove one thing doesn't really apply. With the headset it can usually work when the space left is about 1/2 of a ball then take one out or if that space is a good 3/4 of a ball you are usually good and leave it. Also calcium sulfate marine grease is the only type that holds up to salt water in the winter the lithium soap stuff only repels water and is fine for the bikes that get put away for winter. Dura Ace(higher end) is a calcium sulfate based grease real good stuff I've also found that Lucas Red and Tacky(generally my go to) is pretty good stuff too it will make it through a winter or two and has a very low flowing resistance high temp withstands high pressure plus it's a lot less expensive and can be found everywhere it holds up very well for three seasons because that antisieze additive really works. I use the stuff a lot and been happy with the results. Their marine grease is not bad and can't find the WD professional all purpose calcium sulfate based grease. Too bad because that stuff was good especially good in disk brake hubs. That stuff could take a lot of heat, salt and pressure. Which brings up another point. Pay attention to the heat range with the disk brake hubs. If the grease does say " high temperature disk brake" don't use it because it matters for bicycles too that 300F stuff doesn't work nor does it work with coaster and drum brakes. I had access to any lubricants and it matters for every application but for bearing grease It always ended up being one of the products I mentioned.
Why would you do that? The cage adds weight and takes space. It's a cost reduction device, allowing you to run the bearing with a smaller number of balls. I think you won't find any good cages for hubs, that allow running the bearing with the full number of balls, because the purpose for which these cages are made is to run the bearing with a reduced number of balls.
In principle, if you disassemble the bearing often to replace the contaminated grease with fresh grease, the cage could speed up disassembly. However, I prefer a full number of balls to the convenience of having a cage.
Please feel free to laugh at my ignorance, but this is one of the few things I haven't done with the bike, a friend wants me to overhaul their headset which has worn out caged ballbearings and I was considering replacing them with sealed bearings. Is it simply a case of getting the right size sealed bearing and dropping it in in place of the caged bearings or is there much more to it than that? Any advice gratefully received.
Mountainbikers sometimes "bodge" additional external seals by stretching a piece of old innertube arround the outside of the headset (usually lower bearing as that's the wettest place). Needs to be done as you reassemble the bike.
- a cage: holds the rolling elements apart. really only useful in high speed applications, where you don't want fast spinning balls touching each other where they move in opposite directions. Also makes assembly easier. Cheap materials, not precisely made, expected to wear out.
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