Too Handsome To Handle 2019 ##TOP## Download
Gretel Parriera
This is where patience paid off. In the past 20 years, major advances in technology have improved our ability to document objects. Though the conservation treatment is reversible (meaning we can remove the archaeological artifact if needed), we wanted to create an identical replica for the archaeological collection through 3D scanning and printing. We worked with Direct Dimensions to laser scan the archaeological handle and print a life-size, archivally-stable handle to hold the place of the original in the archaeological collection.
Following the identification of the archaeological handle, the goal of the conservation treatment was to remove the misaligned and oversized replacement handles that had been applied in a much earlier restoration to the vase, probably in the 19th century or early 20th century.
At this point, we could see that threaded brass rods were used to hold up the fabricated replacement handles. In the past, the restorer had filed down and drilled holes into the original ceramic of the vase in order to adhere these rods into place. These methods are very invasive and would no longer be used in a conservation treatment.
With the replacement handles removed, we could finally see where the original archaeological handle was most likely to fit; although much of the original break edge on the vase was lost from the past restoration, the remaining extension from the base of the archaeological handle matched the conchoidal chip-loss on the vase section to the proper left side of the tigers. Even the decorative grooves of the ribbing along the concave curve matched!
Additionally, the archaeologists had a 3D print made of the handle in an inert material. Because the printed handle is an exact replica of the original, and therefore a better version than the reproductions mended to the vase years ago, we opted to replace the missing handle with a printed version. This replica handle was perfectly suited to be used as an accurate fill at the loss on the opposite side because the vase would clearly have been symmetrical.
Make a walking stick for between 7 and free. I took 4 days. Mostly waiting for the varnish to dry. The construction can be done in an afternoon.
I have been making walking sticks for a couple of years now and enjoy this simple craft. I have sold and given away dozens in this time. Each one is individual and a joy to own.
Here is a simple Hazel walker with a modified crook handle made of sapele wood. I have simplified construction of this project for people who have never made a stick. I dont suppose it will win any competitions but it looks lovely, is sturdy and unique.
Any wood will do for the shaft or the handle. These are just two that I had. It's nice to make a stick with a contrasting handle. I chose sapele wood for its dark red colouring and this piece of hazel is a silvery gold colour. I use a small slice of buffalo horn as an interface between the two in order to straighten any unevenness between the shank and the handle. Of course you can get a ready made pole such as a yard brush handle. I recommend you file it down its length into a taper and use the sandpaper to finish it off.
My shank is almost straight but could bend in use. This can be straightened, more of this later. shanks with 'doglegs' in can't be straightened. If you have a shank with branches on, nip the branches off and file them flush to the shank. This will add plenty of character to the shank. I like to leave them slightly proud of the surface but rounded off smooth. Giving it a pleasingly knobbly appearance. You can buy a pre seasoned shank from thestickman.co.uk, he has a good selection of ash, hazel, birch, sycamore, blackthorn and others from about 3 for hazel and more for the others. He does precut handles too. as well as the metal and rubber ferrules, 8mm stud and buffalo horn discs (spacers)
Pic 02 is a life size scan of a precut crook handle. I buy precut handles in lots of woods from ebay.co.uk for 3 from 'sarasoddsandends' she charges 2 postage for any quantitiy. If you print the image out to 17.5cm width, the handle is lifesize. Use the photo as a template to cut the handle. Preferably use a bandsaw but I find a normal electric jigsaw, used slowly, is just as good. The blackline on the photo is where i cut the crook handle for use as a walker. the red line is where i cut it for a full turned crook handle If you are adventurous, the oddly shaped end is designed to have a thistle shape carved out of it. If you are making a shepherds crook then use a much longer shank - 1.5 metres.
pic04 is the handle in the vice ready to be shaped. next to it are l-r a shinto saw rasp (internet for about 12), a flat woodrasp (1shop)
and a half round woodrasp (1shop)
I quicky filed the corners off the handle using the shinto saw rasp (although the ordinary woodrasps will do the job the shinto is faster - much faster)
pic 13 hold the handle with a hanky or cloth at this stage because oils from your skin can discolour the wood. Use all grits and sand in cirular motions until no deep scratches are left. The harder the wood the better the finish.
Don't forget, the buffalo horn is a nice addition but not absolutely necessary. You may use a flat piece of contrasting wood, plywood (for the striped effect) or bone if you want a spacer. feel free to modify that stage!
Make sure your handle and shank are the same width and adjust the handle if necessary. The horn spacer will even out the differences in shape.
pic 25 mix the resin and coat half the stud with it. I am going to do the shank first. I held the shank lightly in the vice to keep it upright. Using a wooden stick i spooned some resin down the hole in the shank and a little on the top of it, then i put the horn spacer on it and dropped the stud into the hole. Sorry no pics of this process as it takes minutes to set and I didn't fancy getting my 300 camera glued up! Before this has all set; coat the inside of the handle with resin and again coat the threads.
pic 26 carefully press the whole thing together rotating the handle to line up the sides. wipe any glue with a cloth and carefully remove any residue on the shank with a damp cloth. Hold the stick now with a downward pressure. I usually sit down and wait til the resin has set but you may be able to improvise a rig that will keep them together. It take about 5 minutes.
Using the file. smooth the horn to shape flush with both the shank and handle. Use sandpaper to smooth the horn. Use all grits again. When you get to the final couple of grades take off the protective tape and finish off from the shank up to the handle. Hopefully you will have a smooth join. Mine had a slight step on the inside. too much messing to smooth this off will result in damaged bark. I suggest you try pinfiles if you have them.
Determine the length of the stick required and cut to length. Allow about 15 degree angle of the elbow. Wearing shoes, stand upright and hold the shank of the stick below the handle until you get that angle and it feels comfortable. measure the distance between the top of the hand and the top of the handle and cut the length by that amount. Alternatively if you have an existing stick or a cheap adjustable one copy the length of that. If you are making a crook you need a much longer stick. hold the stick next to you and slide your hand up it until your hand is level with your heart. The handle should start just above your thumb. measure the distance between the top of your thumb and the bottom of the handle. Then cut the stick to length by that amount.
I hope you have made a lovely walking stick They are great presents for fathers day.
Here are pictures of more wooden handled sticks I've made.
One is a cross handled walking stick, a regular crook, a pine handled stick similar to the one in this project and Snake. Made from one fiece of wood with a great shape just painted to resemble a snake
The penknife. My trusty Victorinox Rucksack. It has a saw just perfect for cutting a shank if I see one and really handy on the workbench.
Please let me know how you get on with this instructable - it is my first! and perhaps show pics of your own sticks.
Best wishes
Phil
I found your Instructable while looking for ways to fit this handle onto a stick. It's a carved bone skull. The blank that was used was already capped with bone before carving, so it's perfectly smooth and sealed on top, with about a 3/4" well about 1-1/4" deep. Would I be best served just carving and sanding the top of the shank to fit the profile and potting it with resin, or do I need something more to mount it?
Great steps, but seems like you need to bend the handle somehow or find a curve branch because it would break easily if dropped or weighted by hand pressure due to the short length-wise grain ocated in the middle.
Hi Sakiyama.Thanks for bringing this point up
I have been using it regularly since making it and have added an ice spike. If the wood was a softer wood and liable to break i would drill a hole completely thru the handle from back to front and put a wooden dowel or length of stud into it. Sealing the ends up with epoxy and sawdust. Anyone doing this instructable may be advised to do so if the wood is softer than this.
Phil
Step One: The first thing I did was do a bit of measuring. I knew I wanted to make a sleeve with a handle. So I cut out two rectangular pieces of leather, the first being the sleeve.
I then scratched in the design and handle holes and cut those out. The first design I cut out was cool, but I found that when it was wrapped around the jar, corners stuck out (dumb!). So I stuck with a diamond shape.
Step Two: After I had the pieces and designs cut out, I punched holes on the ends of the sleeve piece for the twine. Then I punched a hole on either end of the handle piece and attached the snaps. We later added a second snap for better aesthetics.