[Api 687 Rotor Repair Pdf Download
Saija Grzegorek
Dropped my watch and the rotor fell of the movement. I tried pushing it back on and it keeps falling off. Obviously I should not glue it, but does anyone know how to fix this? Or am I better off just taking it out completely and only using the winder? I would prefer automatic without winding.
When you say that you pushed it back did you succeed or would it just not fit ? Normally you would have to use special tools to re-attach the rotor. Some sort of a press thing that presses the rotor back into the ball bearing.
I tried pushing it on by hand and it fit. But a few min later after I put the case back on, the rotor fell off again. So I guess the issue is that it no longer is fitting tightly and just keeps falling off. Is the ball bearing adjustable i.e. via the screw?
The rotor is friction fitted onto the bearing. Be careful when pushing on the rotor while still attached to the watch. You should remove the bearing by undoing the centre screw and re fit the rotor using a staking tool. If the rotor it still loose then perhaps loctite might secure it but I must say this is an unusual fault.
It is possible that the rotor's hole may have loosened up a bit. I'm not sure what the experts suggest here but you could try super glue and it should fix the issue but you'd have to remove the ball bearing as well.
Please post a better picture. It seems the rotor came off the ball bearing.
I recommend avoiding any glue whatsoever. Can you buy a replacement rotor?
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if the hole is too large to allow good friction you always have the option to purchase a new oscillating weight + bearing assembly, swiss part number 1143, available from CousinsUK and I am sure other places.
Can someone please link me some options? I am seeing many are marked with brand names on them or different jewel amounts so I want to be sure I get a compatible one. Or would any generic (regardless of markings on it) 1143/1 oscillating weight and rotor be fine?
Before you rush to buy anything.At this point you don't know if the problems is with the rotor, the bearing, or both that have been machines so slightly off specification. So you might end with a rotor that won't hold either. I suggest that you try first to repair what you have. A possible way could be placing the center of the rotor, say 0.10mm around the hole with steel dies under a press, so to deform it very slighty and allow to friction fit again. any decent machine shop should be able to do this for you
If it were mine I would try to replace it with an authentic part rather than one that is just "compatible" I would resort to using some sort of adhesive only as a last and temporary option. Removing the bearing and trying to properly press it back into the rotor would be my first step, a staking set properly used could tighten the hole enough for a good fit. Just my opinion. ....
I must admit it is a mystery why it has came loose. The friction fit is a tight friction fit so for it to be loose it must have been forced off at some point. I would check the bearing and also check the rotor because it has to be balanced ie not settle in the same position. If loctite does not work I would just purchase a new rotor.
^^^^ not to mention that precision or true in the flat and round it has to be to function properly. I certainly would experiment with it to learn but would be on he lookout for a replacement.
Good luck!
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Agreed, however it's almost always my inclination to try to repair something using the least intrusive method possible first. I would think that the rotor is some kind of brass/bronze, possibly plated but nonetheless fairly malleable.. I know from the one Rolex automatic I have repaired that the rotor there was a nickel plated brass piece. Replacement with an authentic part would be ideal, even if it's from a scrap unit, but glue would be my last choice. Just my 2 cents...
Agreed, however it's almost always my inclination to try to repair something using the least intrusive method possible first. I would think that the rotor is some kind of brass/bronze, possibly plated but nonetheless fairly malleable.. I know from the one Rolex automatic I have repaired that the rotor there was a nickel plated brass piece. Replacement with an authentic part would be ideal, even if it's from a scrap unit, but glue would be my last choice.
Totally agree, but as I said already the problem could be in the bearing, as the rotor appears to be perfect in picture. Blindly get another then it if doesn't work is time and money spent, frustration gained.
Thanks for the informative answers. I think I will start by using a little Loctite 222 and see if that helps with the issue. I will unscrew and take out the bearing, use a toothpick for a very light layer of the Loctite on the inside of the rotor, and press the rotor back in (and let dry). Hopefully this works. Does this sound like a good plan?
You could also try to make the hole of the rotor more little by hitting it with something which is bigger than the hole and a hammer. The hole will get little and the rotor will get in and stay there.
I work at an independent auto repair shop and we seem to have 2 schools of thought, first thought, Mechanic A, one rotor under spec's, the other rotor on the same axle is machinable, replace only the rotor that is at or under min and resurface the other if within spec's after machining.Thought 2, same situation but Mechanic B says to replace both rotors to keep system performance equal.
You can probably get away with replacing one, but you replace them in pairs so that you can have brake balance between the two wheels. This is the same reason why you would replace brake pads in pairs. If one wheel brakes more than the other, it can cause your car to "steer" in one direction while hard braking. So just replace both to be safe.
This difference, no matter how minor, is an imbalance. Of course, there are bigger imbalances, such as fitting odd wheels/tyres to the same axle or in the case of cars without a centered differential (such as most FWD set ups), the drive shafts are different lengths.(See the Honda Civic Type R, I believe it has equal length driveshafts).
One side's caliper piston will be far more extended than the other side. Due to wear and tear, manufacturing defects, dust, and rust, this could mean you will have a braking force imbalance. In a perfect world, this wouldn't be the case, but other factors could influence the angle of incidence of the brake piston against the pad, thus the pad on the disc - creating a braking imbalance.
You will eventually need to replace both discs at the same time. At some point, the resurfaced disc will come out of specification. In this case, the previous new disc might be close to the limit. Having one brand new disc and one disc close to the limit at all times will mean the caliper piston will never be used in its starting position. Over extending the piston can risk rust and dirt build up if the dust boot is stretched.
I won't get into the cost and time that goes into resurfacing a disc and the inherent risk that the resurface procedure could go wrong as I think its off topic. Bottom line is, wear and tear items should be done in pairs across an axle to avoid any imbalances or unpredictable situations.I once had someone tell me I should replace calipers in pairs too, I don't agree with this one however.
There is no reason to replace discs in pairs, if for some reason one disc has become worn soon after being replaced at an earlier stage, and the other hasn't. This situation happened to me this week - two new rear discs about two to three years ago, one worn beyond limits, worn only on the inner side of the disc, the other as new, why did this happen, because garages that simply fit parts, as opposed to being engineers, are not doing their jobs properly. The cause was most likely that one brake pad had not been replaced at all, or not replaced properly (cleaning the calliper and lubricating the contact points between calliper and brake pad), yet there was no brake binding, so I suspect that on brake pad had simply never been changed, hence the wear rate was so different; was it done deliberately to create new work, or was it just carelessness, I do not know, but the hugely inflated cost of brake repairs when compared to the actual cost of parts and the time it takes to do the work, makes it a real money spinner for garages.
All I actually needed was a new wheel bearing (cost 20), but they do not fit bearings that are pressed into the discs (not being engineers), they replace the disc itself, and only in pairs (cost 400 plus), I accepted that as it would have been the first time the rear discs would have been replaced, it made sense to go ahead and renew them. However, two to three years later I am being told that the same is required again, by a young fitter that was laughing to his colleague about the cost, as he sits behind the counter working out the proposed bill, nudging his colleague to get him to take a look at the bill as he giggles, and mocking the car as he rings around for quotes on parts - unprofessional or what! I didn't interrupt them, I just listened closely.
I challenged them when they told me what was needed, pointing out to them that the discs were not very old, and that wear on the one disc was unusual, and must have been the result of how the previous work by another 'fitters' was carried out; I was expecting the disc to perhaps fail, and had priced a new disc with bearing and ABS ring fitted, and asked if it is always necessary for discs to be replaced in pairs, when the other disc is in an as new condition, and was told by three people that there is no need to replace discs in pairs if one disc is still good, confirming what I already believed to be true.
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