Irecently purchased a new onn roku tv and onn blast soundbar. All setup went good except for volume and power controls on the cable remote. When I tried to setup through the cable box it asked for the brand and onn nor roku is an option.
TV works good now but the volume up button acts as a power button to the sound bar. I've tried all different input on the sound bar (aux and optic) but the only thing that works is the optic being plugged into the cable box.
The Onn Roku soundbar remote is IR, and its power & volume commands are not in any preprogrammed remote. These commands are Roku commands, they can't be set to different tv brands. These commands simply tell the soundbar to send a hdmi-cec signal to the tv its connected to, and ALL tv brands respond to the same cec-signal for tv power, volume up & down, and mute. So the soundbar remote controls the tv by hdmi-cec, where your cable remote controls the tv by IR.
You have Roku tv and Roku soundbar, the only cable you need is a hdmi cable connected to the ARC input on the Roku tv, probably Hdmi 3. Never use the ARC and optical at the same time. The optical cable is only there if your tv didn't have an ARC input, which it does, so discard the optical cable.
Sound signals are to be used only when vessels are in sight of each other and are meeting or crossing at a distance within half a mile of each other. These signals must never be used in fog or other conditions of reduced visibility, where the vessels are not visible to each other by eye. Only the fog signals listed under the Inland Rules, Rule 35 may be sounded at such time.
There are different blasts combinations for various movements on the water that may use both short and prolonged blasts. When power-driven vessels are in sight of one another and meeting or crossing at a distance within half a mile of each other, each vessel underway, when maneuvering as authorized or required by the Inland rules must use the following sound signals.
Note: Inland Rules regarding sound signals are occasionally different from International Rules. Inland Rules signal intended action and International Rules signal what you are actually doing. The following information reflects Inland Rules. If you travel overseas, you must learn the International Rules.
If you approach another vessel head on, and wish to pass it on its starboard side, you are required to sound two short blasts with your horn. If the other vessel is in agreement, they should sound the same signal in response.
When you are planning on passing another vessel from behind, there are several things you must do. Any vessel that is overtaking another must keep out of the way of the vessel being overtaken. This means that you can't expect them to move, slow down, or change their course. If you plan on passing them on THEIR starboard side, you must sound one short blast. If they understand your signal and agree, they will sound one short blast in response. The vessel being overtaken has a responsibility to maintain course and speed in order to minimize the potential for collision.
When you are planning on passing another vessel from behind, there are several things you must do. Any vessel that is overtaking another must keep out of the way of the vessel being overtaken. This means that you can't expect them to move, slow down, or change their course. If you plan on passing them on THEIR PORT side, you must sound two short blasts. If they understand your signal and agree, they will sound two short blasts in response. The vessel being overtaken has a responsibility to maintain course and speed in order to minimize the potential for collision.
Note: These are not the only rules concerning sound signals in restricted visibility; there are additional rules concerning sound signals that may be found in the Rules of the Road or in Chapman's Piloting.
A few weeks ago I decided to take a chance and order a True Blast Plus sound upgrade kit for one of my Williams locomotives. I was pleasantly surprised by the results. So much so that I turned around and ordered enough kits for all my Williams diesels. The Williams O scale stuff looks good, runs good (almost bullet-proof) and now they sound good too.
Sound great. Thanks for sharing. I haven't been keeping up with recent product releases, but am pleased to see WBB offering sounds other than whistle and bell. I've got a few engines I might add sounds to while keeping them conventional. Where did you buy the upgrade kits, and how might I find out what engines they make them for? I did a quick internet search and didn't find much.
I added a second speaker to two of my FA-1 diesels, put the second speaker in the fuel tank. You get a new speaker with the upgrade sound kit. I spliced the two speaker wires together and have had no problems so far. The motor's are wired in series and with the new ALCO 244 sound board, I have cruise control with rpm level by just moving the throttle up or down. Half of my ABBA is done, working on the other half this weekend. I will have 8 motors and 8 speakers for less then the price of any mth or lionel ABBA set. No smoke or electro couplers, but plenty of pulling power for a nice long freight train that would look fantastic at trainstock 8.....
Rats, I just had a small delivery from Lantz (I got to know them many years ago since I went to college near them but now they're my go-to for online purchases). Now I'll have to sneak another package past my wife.
You asked about Baldwin sounds for your Sharks. None of the present options listed are suitable. Your best bet at this point might be to wait as I'd tend to believe a Baldwin kit would be released at some point given the number of Williams Sharks which are out there.
Had the True Blast II installed in my original Williams UP City of San Fan Years ago, if you have ever been on the Yough River Fly Fishing when the big Diesel Engines come thru pulling their rolling stock, and they set off a horn blast that sounds down thru the entire river, the Williams Tru Blast II is that exact sound. I love it, fantastic stuff!
I'm somewhat new to O gauge. My layout is controlled by DCS and Legacy remotes. I have heard the Willaims/Bachmann GP30 with True Blast Plus at a show layout that was run in conventional mode. Sounded nice, but it didn't sound like the ones in the video posted by Ralph M.
Still trying to figure out how to run conventional with my DCS remote. Does the Williams/Bachmann only run in conventional? Is it possible to upgrade the GP30 to TMCC without changing all the electronics?
Purchase Barry's DCS O Gauge Companion Vol II Book, if you are having trouble understanding how to operate your DCS in any mode what some ever. I like to use the TR mode thru the side receiver of the Z 4000 when running Conventional, there is another way also, I will let you discover it in Barry's book. I also recommend the OGR Video Guide to DCS, although a little dated now it's still a great visual DCS Video guide, especially for the beginner. Melvin does an exceptional educational job on the video.
Nice work Ralph. I especially like the B&O FA's. I have a set of AAs and picked up a MTH Premiere B unit with the light gray trucks. Doesn't match but still looks good. Might have to look into one of these systems for it as I really don't like the stock Tru=Blast II at all...
Is the install 100% plug and play? I see in the product photo below, a new speaker with wires leading to a modular plug which goes to the new Sound board, I also see the new Sound board with wires to a modular plug which I am guessing goes to the oem mother board. Is that it?
Craig that system is plug and play if you put it in a new williams by bachmann engine with the newer reverse unit just plugs in but if not, You have to hook it up to power red and black wire in engine.
Why not go for the ERR RailSounds Commander? $84.95 and they offer great engine sounds as well as the horn and bell. They also have a battery provision so the sound doesn't cut out on direction changes as an option.
I already have four of the newer WBB units: the PRR 44 tonner, the Anniversary Genesis, the Seaboard Also RS3, and the ACL GP30 which all came with True Blast Plus. So I am familiar with it, and I am impressed with the sounds.
These new upgrades should improve the rest of my herd. I have used the Williams dummy upgrade kits a half a dozen times in the past to add two motors to my B units, I was always impressed with the well written instructions, simplicity of the install, and plug and play setup.
As far as doing that with the True Blast Plus, now you're into the price of the ERR RailSounds Commander that already has battery backup capability, so there seems little point in trying to hack that product.
I bought the Tru-Blast Plus to put in my Williams conventional B unit. The volume of the locomotive was extremely loud and the horn weak. It has a volume control but only made both quieter. I took it out and will be offering it up for sale when I get a chance. I was disappointed in it's offering after reading all the positive comments.
Sound Blaster is a family of sound cards and audio peripherals designed by Singaporean technology company Creative Technology (known in the US as Creative Labs). The first Sound Blaster card was introduced in 1989.
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