Jump Starter Diy
Glendora Starr
The Schumacher DSR119 is the ideal jump starter for starting vehicles in emergency situations. This 1800 peak amp jump starter features a compact, durable corrosion-proof polypropylene case and built-in charger to automatically charge the internal battery. LED indicators offer an easy way to check the charging and status of the internal battery.
This 4-gauge, 28-inch flex performance jumper cable includes heavy-duty clamps that fit top and side-mount batteries. The 12-volt DC power outlet features overload and short-circuit protection for added safety. For convenient storage, this maintenance-free unit can be stored in any position.
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I've had it for about 12 months and used it a few times shortly after I got it. However, I haven't needed it in about 7 months. And unfortunately, it was sitting in my garage in a state of low-charge for most of that time.
Well, my car battery died the other day, so I wanted to get this charger back in action. It was obviously out of charge, but when I plugged it in to charge, nothing happened. No lights come on, nothing happens when I press the "battery test" button, nothing. I charged it overnight and nothing seems to be happening at all.
The link says it's a lead acid battery chemistry being used in that device. That type of chemistry does very poorly when sitting around idle. Periodic charges after each use and on a schedule thereafter will enable it to remain as healthy as possible, but even then, there's a life span of three to five years.
You should be able to purchase a replacement 17 amp-hour battery and replace it, to restore the device to practical use. Consider also to invest in what is called a battery tender, which maintains lead acid batteries without overcharging them.
A quick check online shows prices for a 17 ah battery sealed lead acid to be in the US$25-30 and up range. Battery tenders run about that price, but even if you replace the device completely, you'd want a tender to keep it healthy as long as possible, otherwise, you'll be throwing it away later.
Yes, it is ruined. Lead acid batteries do self-discharge and get ruined if stored for long periods of time at empty state of charge. Not only that but they are heavy for the amount of capacity they have.
I put mine in back of my car and never used it for 6 months i charged it but it didnt have enough juice to jump a dead battery. I pulled the back off charged the lead battery with my battery charger for about 8hrs. Put battery back in the pack and viola. Works great and ive charged it up the normal way and still holding up.
I have the same issue on one of them. Bought it charged it and used it twice, now i did charged it all night till full green light then used it then leave it for one or 2 weeks then try again for cell charging and goes back to yellow 2 bar low batt again? What is the issue????
I pulled the back off. Found the battery was not the issue. Back ground: Like most people I used it a couple of times. Didn't keep it charged. Then tried to charge it up and wouldn't take a charge. Symptoms:- No red LED charge indicator light unless I turned the lamp on. - If I turned off the lamp the LED light went out. And when turning the lamp on again, Lamp stayed dim. No red LED. - Unplugged from outlet plugged back in no light. No LED.- Turn Lamp on. Unplugged then plugged in Lamp on Bright LED charge indicator light on. Investigation/Findings:- After opening the back found the + terminal was found loose. - Disconnected the heavy red and Black cables from the battery and left only the two wires from the charging circuit card connected.- Power adapter at the back on the AC input was providing 17VDC at the circuit card yet the LED was not lit. - Cycled power (unplug unit from the wall then plugged back in) turned LED back on.- Then unplugged then connected and amp meter between one wire (+) the circuit card and the battery.- Plugged the unit in. LEDs on. Amp meter shows .25 Amps charging the battery. Then unclipped one lead breaking the circuit between the charging circuit and the battery. LEDs went out (not charging. No current).Clipped lead back on (still plugged in). No change.Unplugged and plugged back in. LEDs on current flowing.
Conclusion:With the loose terminal and no light on there was zero current being drawn from the power supply circuit of the charger, and no load on the circuit output 9since the battery term was loose (intermittent open). With no load the circuit must sense no load and shut the charging circuit down. Circuit can only be reset by unplugging and plugging back in.With the loose connection, and the lamp turned on, the light provide the load, even with the battery terminal disconnected.After tightening the battery connection current stayed on regardless of whether the light was on or not, because now the battery provided the load, when the lamp was off.Recommendation:- Pull the back off. - Check for a loose connection at the battery terminal before buying a new battery. - Also was unclear if 250mA is the correct charging current. Seems low. But he spec says 30 hours is full-charge time. So the low charging current of 250mA might be right. Just takes a long time to charge up. Hense the term trickle charge.- Good luck. Always fun to learn about why things break. Sometimes easy to fix.
I know its a little late to post but just had this issue. I did a couple of things from this thread and still had nothing. Hooked a voltmeter to it and had 1.19vdc and had been on charge for 2 days. During the charge no lights would come on nothing except a very very dim yellow flash (no red or green light flash) So i connected it to my truck battery and started it up. Let the truck run for 5 or 6 minutes with the pack turned on. Immediately had all the light indications and work light started working. When i disconnected i put my voltmeter to it and BAM 11.59vdc and the test battery light indicated red. Connected to the wall charger and got the expected red to yellow to green light rotation. As previously stated the battery may not have the CCA to jump start but will update when i find out.
Depends on what type of 'lithium' battery is inside the jump-starter. Lithium-ion/Lipo batteries start to go into thermal runaway at about 60C (140F). LiFePO4 is safe up to much higher temperatures because it doesn't 'cook off' until over 220C (at which point the interior of your car would already be melting!).
The problem is finding out what type of battery your jump-starter has. I found one that supposedly has an LiFePO4 battery, but many others do not specify the exact type (and even they did, can we believe them?).
A vehicle interior can get much hotter than ambient if not well ventilated. Dark objects in direct sunlight get hottest and heat rises, so the glovebox might not be the best choice. I would store it in the trunk, as low down as possible and covered up.
The issue of storing jump starters in car (where they should be stored frankly) seems to pose some risk as consumer reports state below.Unfortunately it is still very hard to find products with relevant storage temperatures.
That's a major concern: According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), the temperature inside of a car parked in direct sunlight can reach between 131 and 172 degrees Fahrenheit when the temperature outside is between 80 and 100 degrees. In hot desert areas, the inside temperature can rise even higher.
Unfortunately, the device manufacturers were guarded on the potential consequences of storing these units at high temperatures. Complicating matters, it's the fact that most of the units list their temperature ranges (operating or storage) in the instructions, but not on the product packaging"
After tons of research I was unable to find a battery-based jump starter with sufficient high storage temperature (140F+) capability. Even the LiFePo4 chemistry battery ones seemed to have unusually low temperature guidelines for storage, despite the battery chemistry being traditionally rated for much higher storage temps.
I ended up going with a "super capacitor" starter. They have much higher and lower storage temp tolerances, the one I got is OK from -40C to 70C. They don't hold a charge while stored, it seems like you can either charge it using the trickle that is available from your "dead" battery, or from USB or DC lighter cord.
When storing the unit, disconnect output leads from unit and returnall components to zipper case for protection. Do not expose theproduct to fire or excessive temperatures above 130 ̊C/265 ̊F, whichmay cause explosion or other harm.
Safe and easy-to-use car battery jump starter pack without the worry of incorrect connections or sparks. Safely connect to any 12-volt automotive car battery with our mistake-proof design featuring spark-proof technology and reverse polarity protection.
A rechargeable lithium-powered LED flashlight with seven light modes, including SOS and Emergency Strobe. With multiple luminosity settings, it is immediately adaptable to a variety of situations. Using it's powerful wash light will help you see your engine, help you change a tire at night, or even warn oncoming traffic when you are in need of roadside assistance.
It's more than just a battery jump starter pack, it's portable 12-volt power. With the GB70 Boost HD and the GB150 Boost PRO, you can go anywhere and power your favorite 12-volt devices, like a tire inflator, car jack, power inverter, coffee maker, fan and much more.
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