Nikon D7200 Manual Focus

[Kenya Ahyet]

AFworks, but manual focus does not work.I have tried settings M/AF (body) and M/A or M (lens), but still nothing happens. When I switch the lens to MF, I can turn the focus ring, but the metering/indicator on lens is still silent.

Based on the Manual of the lens the autofocus should be active in M/A mode on the lens but you should have the possibility to make always adjustments with the focus ring. There should always be the possibility to do this and to change the focus also if the autofocus is turned on. If it is not working in your case you should consider to take it to a professional and let it check (many Nikon stores with NPS will do this for you for an ok prize for Nikon lenses).

The camera should not be the problem for this because the AF switch on the D7200 only activates/deactivates the sensor port so no AF data is send to the Lens and turns on and off the motor in the camera if the lens has no AF system.

Do not use AF lenses with the lens focus mode switch set to M and the camera focus-mode selector set to AF. Failure to observe this precaution could damage the camera or lens. This does not apply to AF-S lenses, which can be used in M mode without setting the camera focus-mode selector to M.

When an AF-P lens (0 Compatible CPU Lenses) is used in manual focus mode, the in-focus indicator will flash in the viewfinder (or in live view, the focus point will flash in the monitor) to warn that continuing to rotate the focus ring in the current direction will not bring the subject into focus.

To determine the distance between your subject and the camera, measure from the focal plane mark (E) on the camera body. The distance between the lens mounting flange and the focal plane is 46.5 mm (1.83 in.).

I have a new Nikon D7200. I normally shoot with a single focus point. I have figured out how to move to focus point when I'm in live view but I can't for the life of me figure out how to move the focus point when I'm using the viewfinder. The camera seems to choose the focus point for me rather than my being able to move it to where I want it to be.

Here is the Nikon D7200 Manual. Start on Page 83 and read through page 91. Press the AF Mode Button on the lower front left portion of the body and rotate the rear dial. You want to flip it from "Auto" to where it's blank on the rear display. (like the video) That should turn on the AF points for you to manually set them. Then you press and hold the AF Mode Button (again) on the front of the camera and rotate the FRONT DIAL of the camera to toggle between AF-S (Single Focus Mode) and AF-C (Continuous Focus Mode.)

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My own experience is with the Nikon system and I currently own a number of manual focus Nikkor lenses. For this reason I will limit my discussion to the Nikon system. I have no experience with the Pentax digital SLR system, although presumably many of the issues and concepts involved with using manual focus Nikon lenses on DSLRs will be the same for Pentax users.

The basic technique for mounting and using AI-NIkkors is the same from camera to camera, although the exact details varies by model. For those cameras that have an AI-indexing tab and can meter with these lenses, you must go into the menu system of the camera and manually input the focal length and maximum aperture of the lens:

As I mentioned earlier, the Nikon F-mount dates from 1959. Because Nikon has made lens compatibility a priority over the decades, lenses made decades ago can still fit cameras being made today, and if you know how, can still make wonderful photographs.

If only my d3400 had this option to use a 6.5mm fisheye i scored from b&h. It fits and works allright. Great lens gets almost 180 degrees but ive got to monkey with it and take so many test shots. The focus ring doesnt seem to do anything as everything looks in focus always Good thing im not wasting film.

I use a Nikkor AF-S 80-200 2.8 ED mounted on a Sony 5N (more accurately said the camera is mounted on the lens) to shoot birds in trees. Doing focus peaking in manual mode, I do get excellent results, for I get the white spot on the bird eye or the beak which indicates spot-on focus.

I am pondering on the purchase of a Nikon D7200 to ease the shooting with autofocus. However I am not sure that, because of the branches surrounding the bird, could I get a similar good focus as with the Sony.

While some lenses and systems may do better than others, there's little to do "better" than manual focus, as you have already discovered. You can improve 'automatic' focus by paying careful attention to which focus point is 'active', of course.

Shimon, it's difficult to answer your question without knowing how big the bird was in the frame. From my experience with the D7200, I would say "yes, it'll do the job" provided the bird occupies an area the same size or larger than one of the focussing rectangles in the camera's finder. If smaller, then the answer is "no to maybe". I can't be more definite than that without knowing how big the bird will appear in the frame.

If it helps; I went out casually birding with a totally inadequate (focal length wise) 70-300 SP VR Tamron lens attached to the D7200. I was just snapping handheld and was getting pictures like the one below at maybe 100ft distance from the birds. Success rate of good focus was about 90%, although I had to do a quick focus fine-tune on the hoof after the first few attempts were found to be back-focussed.

I don't think the OP has any problem with the Sony 5N. Their question was whether they could get similar or better results with a Nikon D7200 and whether the AF of a D7200 was discriminating enough to "see" through foliage.

My opinion is that if you can see enough of the subject to make a reasonable composition, then the D7200 will take care of the focus. Conversely, if you can't see enough of the subject to focus on, then what's the point of trying to take a picture?

I'm pretty certain that the D7200 could AF on the goldfinch in the example picture, but focus does appear to be a little forward of the bird in that shot. And if the subject is very tiny in the frame, then I don't think any camera will lock on with absolute certainty.

I also have the Sony bodies similar to yours, and I use focus peaking with many different lenses, especially for portraits and scenics. For shooting birds, I greatly prefer AF, a longer lens, and the D7200.

Looking at the full picture of the bird I think I have exaggerated the difficulty of focusing with the Nikon camera. This assuming that the AF spot is small enough for covering the bird's head, comparing with the 5N focus peaking scintillation on the eye.

A word about my considerations for using the AF-S 80-200 2.8 ED on Sony: probably better than Sony's, lower priced used, being one the best zooms, the cropped image quality will equate same size images taken with longer zooms. There's the option of adding Nikkor teleconverters. Heavy, but then I am using a mono- or tripod for birding anyway. Finally, I will have the option to purchase a Nikon camera :-)

The auto focus system on the camera a little bit confusing in some cases because we have an auto focus switch on the camera and we have one on the lens as well, at least on modern lenses. If you have a lens that's twenty years old, you probably don't have one on the lens and you'll have to use the one on the camera body. But for all the modern users that have all the modern equipment, what I recommend is leaving the switch on the body in a f all the time, and if you do want to manually focus switching the lens switch because that is the direction that nikon is going and it's probably easiest just to leave the one in the body in auto focus all the time. The button in the middle is called the mode button, and I jokingly like to call it the mystery button because it doesn't have a label but it's a really important button for changing the focusing system on the camera, so by pressing this button and turning either the front dial or the back dial, we're going to be able to change two very i...

I am so glad I bought this class. I upgraded from a D5000 to the D750 about 2 weeks ago. This class help so much in teaching all the ins and outs that I never would have known by just trying to study the owners manual. I feel much more confident with my camera now. Thank you John and Creative Live. If anyone is trying to decide whether to buy this or not, I say YES do, it's a great help.

This class was well worth the money. If you invest in such a great camera, you are clearly invested in your craft. The best way to enhance that investment is to learn the camera top to bottom so you can use it to its full potential. Thank you John, this was so helpful! Now it is time to get out there and practice!

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To get round this, you can assign the focus function to one of the buttons on the back of the camera, reserving your shutter button purely for capturing the image. If your camera has one, use the AF-ON button for back button focusing, otherwise assign the AE-L / AF-L or another programmable button to do it. Back button focusing can be used with either AF-S or AF-C modes.

Back button AF gives you an advantage when tracking moving subjects. If you keep the assigned button pressed down in AF-C mode, you are now constantly focusing on the subject under the active focus point(s), even when you press the shutter button to shoot a sequence of images.

1. Switch to Live View (LV) or turn on the LCD screen.

2. Compose the image using the LCD display.

3. Press the + button to zoom into the image. Use the multi-selector to move around your image.

4. Focus using either manual or autofocus. If using autofocus, use back-button focus, otherwise switch your lens to manual focus to stop the camera refocusing when you press the shutter button.

5. Press the - button to de-magnify the image and return to the main view of the scene.

6. The result: extremely accurate focus on a tiny part of the overall image.

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