Reloading Manual Pdf

[Romilda Tiger]

I'm somewhat happy with what I reload, but I don't have a lot of time or money to experiment with different loads and powders. The only way I know to find out something new is to post it here and wait for PMs. Is there a good reloading manual that deals with mostly cowboy loads?

Hodgdon Basic Manual PDF, cowboy loads start on page 30. Alliant also has a Cowboy Action section, however it is limited to the Speers bullets avalible, you may need to go to thier regular data to find some loads. Good Luck.

Meister offers a cowboy action loading manual ( =930365). The out-of-print Lasercast manual had good information. You can get much useful data by looking in standard loading manuals for data on lead bullets loaded to target velocities. Caliber-specific loading manuals offer data for cast bullets. There's really more published data than you are likely to need.

Thanks Widder, I shoot those wimpy .38s. Right now I load everything with Red Dot, I like it, but thought about looking for a comparably priced powder that maybe is a little cleaner. I just traded for another black powder revolver, so I'm thinking to shoot holy black part time. Since I'm not exactly world class fast, I might as well enjoy this game to the fullest....

Red Dot was one of the "cleanest" burning powders for Cowboy loads I tested back in the late '90s (I think), along with Clays, and VV N3-something (I'd have to check my notes). Titegroup wasn't too bad. That said, ALL of the powders I worked with left dirty cases -- varying from really dirty all the way to "I'm not pickin' that thing up" -- when powder charges were on the low end of recommended loads. ALL of the powders that I found to be relatively cleaner, were so mostly only toward the higher end of the recommended load range. Birdshot (from Hodgdon) 'splained to me that low pressure loads just don't obturare the case to seal the chamber quickly enough. (This was all from testing in .44 Mag and Special cases, so YMMV.)

BTW, it happens Red Dot was also one of the bulkiest powders too, again along with Clays (this was all before Trail Boss), so heavier charge weights took up enough space to be easily visible in the case.

Edit: Trail Boss doesn't burn as cleanly for me in .44 Mag cases, even at max recommended charge weights, as Clays and Red Dot did. In Starline nickle-plated .44 WCF cases, Trail Boss does really good. Burns pretty clean in Denver Deb's .38 Special cases, although I still think not quite as cleanly as with Clays or Red Dot. All these at max recommended charge weights (see Hodgdon website). I mention it since this powder appeared several years after my initial study, and it is bulkier than either Red Dot or Clays if that concerns you.

Howdy Louie, I use Red Dot for everything smokeless, (.38, 44/40, .45, 45acp, C45Sp, 12ga) and find it to be one of the cleanest burning powders out there. I've tried a bunch of different ones, Red Dot, Clays, Titegroup, Trail Boss.....etc, never tried Vihtavuori because of the cost. The one thing I found in common with all of them is the lower you go the dirter they are, just a fact of life with smokeless. Clays is a popular all round powder, no cleaner than Red Dot, if you go too low it can become temp sensitive. I run most of my stuff about the middle with good results. The best and easiest to clean is the one true powder, real Black Powder. Good Luck

Thanks for the info everybody. I will print out some of the data but may just stick with Red Dot, it does the job at a reasonable price, and Jefro, I'm set up now to at least burn black powder part time....

Thanks Jeb, I might take you up on it. I gotta work on my Hawes revolver or shoot a Walker, but when I'm ready, I give you a yell. Main thing I need is to watch you load, I've never tried to do that at a shoot, just sorta offhand practicing without others around. Hope to see you soon.

But I wanted this guide to be more than just my opinion. So, I asked my shooter friends for their advice. They have extensive knowledge when it comes to reloading techniques, equipment, and safety precautions. Their collective insights helped me put together this list of the best reloading manuals.

The Lyman manual is jam-packed with valuable information for reloading enthusiasts like myself. The first thing that struck me was the colorful presentation and the detailed imagery. Compared to its predecessor, the Lyman 49th Edition, the visuals in this edition are much clearer and more engaging.

This manual contains the largest selection of bullets, powders, and cast bullets out of any competing reloading book. This is thanks to the data given from brands like Hodgdon, Nosler, Speer, and Creedmoor.

I had previously read the first edition of this manual and it seems that author Richard Lee has put a lot of effort into revising and reformatting this edition. It includes an in-depth analysis of load data given by the powder companies themselves and it covers a wide range of topics, from the basics of reloading to more advanced techniques like bullet seating for accuracy and priming.

The second book on our list to acquire a recent upgrade from their popular 10th edition (already a significant update from their 9th edition), Hornady released their 11th Edition manual filled with over 1,000 pages. 1,500+ load combinations were shot and tested to guarantee reliability.

This manual is made primarily for Hornady bullets and equipment. If you intend on purchasing their well-acclaimed presses or reloading kits, this would be a wise addition to your library.

I also liked the addition of new bullets and a variety of previously unused powders. This made sure that I had all the resources I needed, whether I was experimenting with new setups or refining existing ones.

On the other hand, experienced reloaders should purchase a reloading book that focuses on the reloading information they want to become more familiar with. For example, an expert may need specific load data on rifle calibers or details on a section of a shotshell.

While you may use general information within the text universally, most manuals are exclusive to their own products when it comes to the specific recipes and procedures for making different types of ammo.

Content and Coverage: When selecting a reloading manual, first check if it covers a wide variety of bullets, powders, and reloading methods. Next, verify that the manual includes data from reputable brands and manufacturers, as this will ensure the accuracy and reliability of your reloading process. Finally, take into account the depth of information provided for each caliber and load combination, as this will help you meet your specific reloading requirements.

User-Friendly Format: Opt for manuals that are well-organized and easy to navigate, with clear instructions and diagrams to aid comprehension. You can choose between traditional printed manuals and digital formats based on your preference and convenience.

Additional Resources and Support: See if the manual provides extra resources, like online access to more data, FAQs, or video tutorials. Also, look for manufacturer support or community forums where you can get advice from experienced reloaders. These additional resources can be really helpful when you need extra guidance or information.

Yes, you need a reloading manual if you are new to reloading or want to improve your reloading skills. No matter your reloading experience, both beginner and advanced reloaders should own a reloading manual.

Reloading data is the info you find in reloading manuals. It tells you exactly what you need and how much of it to reload ammo safely and correctly. This info usually covers things like bullet weights, types of powders, primer types, cartridge lengths, and recommended powder amounts for different calibers.

You can often find reloading data in manuals from reputable companies like Hornady, Lee Precision, and other bullet manufacturers. These manuals provide all the information you need for specific calibers and bullet types, along with clear instructions and safety guidelines for reloading.

Tom is one of our content writers at Gun University. When Tom isn't behind the keyboard, he participates regularly in NRL22 and IPSC. You'll often find him out hunting with his mates or camping with his family.

Writing styles vary as opinions do. the old Clesha of assume should be clear and not needed to be repeated. Your view on writing styles points to your own arrogancy and my way or the highway attitude.

Anyway after some research in this forum, and because it seemed popular, soft shooting, and clean, I decided to order up some VV N320 powder, to load some low recoil minor 9mm / using MG 147 CMJ's and WSP's.

Well in an effort to be thorough I tried to validate some of the loads I've seen in this forum against several reloading handbook loads for 9x19. Unfortunately, "none" of the books I've checked show any data for N320, and even the Vihtavuori website, only lists "1" N320 load for > 145 gr.

You're not really missing anything, the published data really isn't there. What you're seeing is the product of people with a lot of years experience loading, who are working somewhat off the charts. In fact, it's not just 9mm...most of the common .40 loads with N320 aren't documented anywhere either. It's a fast powder, that's near the limit of how fast you can go and still make the power factor you need with heavy bullets in 9mm, but it can be done safely, if you use normal caution.

So, what you can do is take a whole lot of data that people here provide, use that as a guide, err on the conservative side, and work up a load until you get the power factor you want/need. If you approach it that way, you shouldn't be at unsafe levels of pressure.

Unfortunately, it's one of the things that I think we do that's sort of bad here....provide really advanced level loads to anybody who feels like reading it. It's either that, or cut off everybody, which isn't a good outcome either. R,

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