can anyone suggest a good camera for bresser microscope

[Jordan smith]

hello can anyone suggest a good camera for a bresser researcher triocular microscope preferably that can focus itself to the same level as the eyepiece and uses usb 2.0

thanks

[Tom Hodder]

On 10 April 2014 22:43, Jordan smith <jordanw...@googlemail.com> wrote:

hello can anyone suggest a good camera for a bresser researcher triocular microscope

depends how diybio you wanna go...

 

preferably that can focus itself to the same level as the eyepiece and uses usb 2.0

I just set the camera focus to infinity and match the adjustment of the vertical ocular lens to that of the binoculars, and this seems to work well..

here is my setup;

Or on the trinolcular head;

 

[Simon Quellen Field]

Tom's setup is an example of eyepiece microphotography.

What works much better is to have the objective be the only piece of glass between the subject and the sensor. If you have access to an interchangeable lens camera (such as a DSLR), you can eliminate both the camera lens and the microscope eyepiece, and let the objective lens project the image directly on the sensor.

Decent DSLRs with excellent sensors are not that expensive these days, and when you aren't doing microphotography, they are still useful as excellent cameras.

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[Mac Cowell]

Several months ago I mounted a micro 4/3rds dslr into the camera port above the binocular eyepieces of one of the epifluoresence scopes sold by amscope.com. I used what I thought was the proper extension tube coupled via an adaptor to the cameras lens-mounting threads.

No matter how I altered the length of the adaptor tube, I could never get the image projected onto the cameras sensor to be in focus (parfocal) at the same time as the images projected through the eye pieces. They were always about 1/4 turn of the focus dial away.

I'm sure I'm making a trivial mistake... But does anyone have a how-to guide for aligning the focal planes of a trinocular scope? Or some troubleshooting procedure I could try that might identify the subsystem that is not setup properly?

Cheeers!

Mac

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[John Griessen]

On 04/11/2014 02:40 PM, Mac Cowell wrote:
> They were always about 1/4 turn of the focus dial away.
>
> I'm sure I'm making a trivial mistake..

Don't assume the length difference needed is the same both sides of the objective lens.
Its very short under the objective, and long above it.

Try going longer and longer to see if that focuses... A binocular eyepiece
has a long path through prisms
that the top port lacks. You might need 20 cm above the eyepieces for another same eyepiece,
and maybe much longer for no eyepiece. Like a meter...

[Nathan McCorkle]

Does the scope use infinity corrected objectives? These need a tube lens between the objective and an image plane. See if the objective has an infinity symbol etched/engraved onto it.

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[Simon Quellen Field]

I generally don't bother with eyepieces when doing microphotography.

You needed them when you were using film, but these days I simply use my 30 inch computer monitor. The camera is connected to the computer via USB, and I can take single shots or video with a click of the mouse. With your eyes free to look around, it is easy to adjust focus, move the slide, adjust the condenser and the lamp brightness, all without fumbling around. And you get to see exactly what the camera is going to record.

You can generally remove the binocular or trinocular head completely from the microscope, and replace it with the camera, without having to buy any expensive adapters. The top surface is usually flat, and the camera can just sit there.

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[Jordan smith]

simon did you need to use any adapters or extra lenses to make it work or just placed on the microscope when you had removed the triocular head?.

I have a dslr  camera but its my dads so if i can find another way around without using it that would be better but if not then i could try convince him to let me use it.

[Simon Quellen Field]

Nothing extra. If you add some extension tubes (ordinary pipe or cardboard will do, since they are simply tubes), you can get more magnification, and fill the sensor with the center of the field. Without extension, you get vignetting, which is not really a problem (the image is a circle surrounded by black). The center of the field is the part most free of aberrations, and filling the sensor with the magnified image give you a more pleasing shot, but don't bother magnifying more than you have resolution to support, or you'll just get bigger fuzzy details.

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On Sat, Apr 12, 2014 at 1:39 PM, Jordan smith <jordanw...@googlemail.com> wrote:

simon did you need to use any adapters or extra lenses to make it work or just placed on the microscope when you had removed the triocular head?.

I have a dslr  camera but its my dads so if i can find another way around without using it that would be better but if not then i could try convince him to let me use it.

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[Tom Hodder]

On 12 April 2014 21:39, Jordan smith <jordanw...@googlemail.com> wrote:

simon did you need to use any adapters or extra lenses to make it work or just placed on the microscope when you had removed the triocular head?.

I have a dslr  camera but its my dads so if i can find another way around without using it that would be better but if not then i could try convince him to let me use it.

If I understand Simon correctly you could get away with the DSL camera body, and no lens.

I just had a quick crack at this and one issue is that my Sony a100 won't take shots without a lens attached.

I guess the options are to work out how to over-ride the interlock, or to buy an extension tube for the sony a-mount.

[Tom Hodder]

On 13 April 2014 23:17, Tom Hodder <t...@limepepper.co.uk> wrote:

I guess the options are to work out how to over-ride the interlock, or to buy an extension tube for the sony a-mount.

Ah, so on a sony a100, its possible to take shots without a len attached by setting manual mode, and then removing the shutter lock for the "no lens" condition.

 

[Simon Quellen Field]

You're getting some vignetting in the corners.

A little bit of extension would give you more magnification and get rid of the dark corners, at the expense of field-of-view.

Try a time-lapse of some yeast budding -- that's always a fun one, and quick to set up.

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