[Bared To You Audio Book Mp3 Free Download
Melvin Amey
I have the Audio programming book. I just never understood how to access the correct hardware and set aside memory and what not to get sound. PortAudio looks like good start as well as SDL, but I want to almost be machine specific to get the most out of audio programming at a fundamental level.
I would first try and diagnose the root cause of the problem. borrow some other amplified speakers from somewhere and connect to your thin client 3.5mm output. Try some headphones as well. Then get an equivalent source device with a 3.5mm output like an iPOD/MP3Player/Phone. Either your speakers have a problem and the gain at max volume setting is just not high enough or your source is just not outputing the full line level output.
The only inputs on the Creative speakers are 3.5mm. I could solder (not very good at it, however) two mono 3.5mm cables from raw speaker wire and combine them into a mono>stereo Y coupler (like this: Amazon.com ). Would that work?
Im willing to bet that the Internal amplifier on the WYSE is your issue. If you plug in headphones or powered speakers and you cant hear anything or its almost inaudible then most likely the WYSE is your issue.
A phone connector is a family of cylindrically-shaped electrical connectors primarily for analog audio signals. Invented in the late 19th century for telephone switchboards, the phone connector remains in use for interfacing wired audio equipment, such as headphones, speakers, microphones, mixing consoles, and electronic musical instruments (e.g. guitars, keyboards, and effects units). A male connector (a plug), is mated into a female connector (a socket), though other terminology is used. Pl...
The other thing you could try is adding a ferrite bead on to the line. This can help reduce RF interference, especially if you have fluorescent lighting, but the power supply for the thin client could also be a factor. Try comparing clients. Also try a different power source (different location), in case the wall power supply is affecting things as well.
Ok, so what you are doing is you are taking a signal running it through an AMP, then running it through a second AMP. The humming you are getting is from over amplification. If the creative set is not enough amplification by itself then there may be something wrong with the thin clients audio output, or a problem with their built in amp.
This framework is block-based and double-buffered. All audio processing is done in 32-bit floating point. The framework consumes just a few MHz of the 450MHz SHARC DSPs. This includes managing the movement of audio data, performing fixed / floating point conversion and triggering various user-call backs for audio processing.
The framework relies on a modular architecture which makes it easy to swap in/out different audio configurations, Fin board support, A2B module support, etc. without needing to modify your audio processing routines.
The framework is easily configurable via a shared header file that is used to set up system-wide audio processing configurations (e.g. single or dual core processing, audio block size, audio sample rate, presence of daughter boards, which audio framework to use, etc.)
Now the Expansion Fin Selection page will appear. Here is where you can select any expansion Fins connected to your SHARC Audio Module through the expansion interface on the bottom of the board. Then click Next.
Next the A2B Module Selection page will appear. Select the A2B module that you have connected to your SHARC Audio Module through the A2B bus. Once the A2B module is selected, 1 A2B configuration should be chosen so that audio can be transmitted and received properly over the A2B bus. Then click Next.
The Audio Parameters page will appear allowing the configuring of certain audio parameters. Here the audio block size and sample rate can be selected as well as if audio processing with use both SHARC cores, and then click Finish.
Being an industrial electrician amongst other more mathematical technical employments. When terminating signal wires and power cables we use a system of bootlace ferrules and copper crimp lugs. Though when using contactors for electric motor applications we generally use bare copper wire and the same for domestic light and power switches.
Should one use such a device or similar? I should point out at this stage the bootlace ferrule or crimp lug are professionally crimped using expensive industrial crimping tools. Not cheap eBay stuff. Or do we just strip back the black insulation on the NAIM audio cable and present bare copper into the speaker terminal. You may have spring-loaded terminals. Though in my case I have binding posts with a hole through the middle of the stem.
Here is an example of what I am trying to picture in your mind. The post in this example takes a 4mm banana connector in the end, Though it also has room for the bare or terminated copper cable to enter through the hole in the post and be made tightly clamped in the whole by the turning of the binding nut/thingy.
A thing to consider regarding spades or bananas is how they connect to the speaker cable. Many use one or two set crews. This connection is not much different from bare wire in the speaker terminal unless used with well crimped ferrules. Or matching ferrules like WBT offers. They are longer, matching their spades & bananas.
I have purchased this set to see how it fits the turrets on the speaker terminals. I may use them or may not. I do have a high-grade industrial crimping tool that will do a professional crimp on these spade connectors. My NAIM speaker cable is terminated in bananas at the amplifier end and bare copper at the speakers.
As stated all except the first spades listed use screws to fix the speaker wires in the spade connectors. I wonder if this is a marketing decision as most consumers would not have a pair of industrial electricians crimpers purchased from specialist hardware wholesalers that only sell to companies and tradesmen.
I almost have given up asking for help on what spade connectors I should use as my posts keep on being edited for valid reasons though it makes it so difficult to show forum members what I am talking about.
In relation to crimping, Chord have released a product called ChordOhmic banana plugs, which is professionally crimped by the dealer, and supposed to be as good as factory fitted. So it would seem the idea of crimping is not a bad thing
Good point on the lack of soldering skill or technique of some dealers. Few cable manufacturers have stressed on the importance of the quality and method of soldering, and for this reason only factory terminated cables are offered by these manufacturers. One of such cable manufacturers even indicated on their site that an unusual solder and soldering technique are used in the termination to preserve the quality of the cables.
They are 1983 model, and judging by the photos it looks like there are only metal screws to attach bare wires (the screws are placed on a black plastic .... mount?). It seems strange, but I forgot to ask the shop before they shipped them and they are not able to help me now. I don't know how to post a photo here, but perhaps there is somebody familiar with this kind of binding posts and can tell me whether I should think ahead of getting cables without banana plugs at the end or there is something I can't see on the photos?
Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to get me some adaptors, to accomodate banana plugs of my current cables (I guess i will just buy bare DNM Reson cables in the future) and for greater universlity. Since the terminals are not gold plated, I believe I do not need anything fancy, do I? Will these be okay?
You might want to wait until you get the speakers and just use your current wires without the banana plugs. On the two pair that I have I purchased similar connectors and they didn't fit. On one set only one fit on each speaker and on the other set none fit. As I was looking at them it looked as if the black middle section on the speaker terminal was just a little to thick for them to sit flat against the back of the speaker. That is the reason that I currently have bare wire connected.
Yes, these are my first Klipsches. I have never actually heard Cornwalls in my life . They are very hard to come across in Poland. I heard Heresies and I was told they are a very good hint as to what Cornwalls can sound like.
The Cornwalls have a plain terminal strip to attach the speaker wires. Yes, I would make adapter for your present cables, so you would not have to permanently alter your present cables. There are some folks who would modify their Cornwalls and put on nice five way binding posts. Before you decide that, a short piece or reasonably good wire with banana jacks on one end will suffice, with bare wire on the terminal block.
To post pics, when you are coposing your text, you go to the options tab (don't use the insert/editbutton). On the options tab, there is an add/update button that opens up a window to upload a file, where you can browse to the pic of your choice. Once chosen, you must save it. You may need to scroll to the right to see the save button. Once saved, you can then post your message with the picture. Only one pic per post this way.
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