Shampoo Making Formula Pdf

[Margit Szermer]

Surfactantsor in other words Surface Active Agents, are widely used in many industries including personal care. You might understand surfactants as the ingredients responsible for making a shampoo or a shower gel foam and cleanse. This assessment is partly correct, although not always the case.

In this post, we will not be able to go into the science of surfactants in detail, but let us cover some basics so you have a grasp of how they fit into our formulation covering how to make herbal shampoo.

A surfactant molecule has a water-loving head and an oil-loving tail. Surfactants can be classified as anionic, cationic, non-ionic and amphoteric depending mainly on the charge of the water-loving head.

Emulsifiers and solubilisers both belong to the surfactant group. I am sure you have noticed that when you want to solubilise some essential oils in your facial toner your formula may foam a little. That is because a solubiliser is effectively a surfactant.

Of course, there is so much more to know about surfactants, this barely scratches the surface. We teach surfactant science in our Advanced Diploma in Organic Cosmetic Science and in our Diploma in Organic Haircare Formulation.

In learning how to make natural shampoo, one of the first, most important decisions will be your choice of surfactant as that will dictate the base of your product. When blending your surfactants with water or hydrosols, you will end up with a low viscosity product. This would only be a aesthetically pleasing and practical if you opt for a foamer bottle to dispense the product as these containers have a special chamber that transforms your watery base into a foam.

If you want to achieve a nice, thick blend that works well in a pump-action bottle, you will need to add gums to your product to increase the viscosity; in other words you will need to thicken your product.

We are using various surfactants to create our base. You can use one surfactant only, but your product will perform better if you blend surfactants. As with other ingredient groups, not all surfactants are equal.

We will also be using Lamesoft PO65 (INCI: Glyceryl Oleate (and) Coco-Glucoside) which is a lipid layer enhancer or refatting agent. This means it will help with moisturising and has softening properties.

With these surfactants, we will be using two aromatic hydrosols: peppermint and rosemary. Both of these plants are excellent in shampoos. Peppermint is cooling and refreshing while rosemary may help with circulation and potentially therefore slow down hair loss.

1. Proteins: we use hydrolysed rice and hydrolysed wheat protein in our shampoo which are excellent at moisturising the hair or even skin. They have film-forming properties which help protect the hair cuticles and they make hair feel soft and hydrated. The hydrolysis means that the protein is broken down into smaller molecules so they can penetrate the cuticle.

2. Hair Protect: we use an algae extract which excels in shampoos and conditioners at providing shine and moisture protection to the hair. It is also great in styling products where heat protection is needed.

When the shampoo is just formulated, you will see it has a lot of foam. Keep the blend in the beaker for a while and the foam will settle down within 24 hours. It will also become clear which is very pleasing to look at. Once it has clarified and become translucent, transfer it into a suitable container and label.

Timi was a key member of the Formula Botanica team from 2015 to 2020; first as our Education Manager and then as Head of Formulation & Research. You can find out more about the Formula Botanica team here.

So, to make this detergent you need 3 starting materials including, Lauryl Alcohol, Sulfuric Acid, and Sodium Carbonate. To get Lauryl Alcohol you start with an oil either a petrochemical or Coconut Oil. You distill out the C12 molecules and then run those through a high pressure hydrogrenation reaction to produce the lauryl alcohol.

To get Sulfuric Acid you need to start with Sulfur (mined somewhere), burn it to produce Sulfur Dioxide, then oxidize it in the presence of a Vanadium Oxide catalyst to produce Sulfur Trioxide. That material is dissolved in water to get Sulfuric Acid.

This is a secondary surfactant that helps thicken the system, make the foam a bit more creamy, and reduce the irritation potential of the main detergents. To make it you have to start with Coconut oil again. Coconut oil is fractionated to remove the Lauric Acid. This is reacted with Dimethylaminopropylamine which comes from Dimethylamine (obtained from a reaction between Methanol and Ammonia) and Acrylonitrile (produced from a reaction between ammonia and propylene). The result is further reacted with Chloroacetic acid (made from Hydrocholoric acid and Acetic Acid) to make Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

This is the primary salt which helps to thicken the formula. It is obtained as a byproduct from the creation of Sodium Carbonate. The materials needed include Carbon Dioxde (air), Ammonia (air), Salt (mined) and water.

This is made pretty much the same way as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate except the Lauryl Alcohol is reacted with Ethylene Oxide (derived from petroleum) prior to reacting it with Sulfuric Acid. This helps to reduce the irritation potential of the ingredient.

This is a chelating ingredient that helps remove ions from hard water and helps the preservative work better. This useful molecule is the result of a chemical reaction between Ethylenediamine, Formaldehyde, and Sodium Cyanide. Sounds scary when you say that. However, Ethylenediamine comes from Ammonia and Ethane, Formaldehyde comes from Methanol, and Sodium Cyanide comes from Sodium Hydroxide and Hydrogen cyanide (obtained from Methane and Ammonia)

Shampoos are cleaning formulations made up primarily of chemicals called surfactants that have the ability to surround oily materials on surfaces and allow them to be rinsed away by water. While there are numerous types of shampoos the majority are low viscosity, solution formulas delivered from a plastic bottle. Often they are marketed towards different hair types or conditions.

Weigh the surfactant phase ingredients into a small saucepan. Weigh the water phase ingredients into a small heat-resistant glass measuring cup or beaker, and weigh the oil phase into a second small heat-resistant glass measuring cup or beaker. Place the water phase and oil phase in your prepared water bath to warm them up and keep them ready for action.

Because this conditioning shampoo contains water, you must include a broad-spectrum preservative to ward off microbial growth. This is non-optional. Even with a preservative this project is likely to eventually spoil as our kitchens are not sterile laboratories, so in the event you notice any change in colour, scent, or texture, chuck it out and make a fresh batch.

Chemist here. You can add cationic polymers (BTMS) to anionic surfactants. Cationic surfactants and anionic surfactants when blended form individual, insoluble salts. A molecule of the cationic combines with one molecule of the anionic (+ to -).

Hi, very new here and have yet to make a liquid shampoo or conditioner. Can these be made by mixing only by hand with a spoon ? Not a hand blender of any sort? Or no point in trying with out one.

Thank you.

Hi mam,

I did the recipe and finally I got the same texture as u have shown. The problem is , the shampoo is filled with numerous tiny bubbles and when I filled the shampoo in bottles, next day the bottle is left with half bottle shampoo. And though it cleanses the hair and remove the oil, and very very less foam i got.

How to avoid bubbles forming.

Kindly reply.

Any video regarding this recipe on YouTube.

Let me know.

This sounds like a perfect product for me. Since I would have to buy all the ingredients to experiment as a complete newbe, where could I buy this from you instead, and then, if I love it, invest in the materials and make my own thereafter.

I have long, thin, straight hair.

Love reading your instructions ? What ingredient(s) make this volumizing? My hair is fine and NOT thick or curly, so volumizing is always a good thing. But, typically products that are good for preventing tangles are not good for creating volume for me. Thanks for all of your great information!

Update: followed the instructions to a T, making the product was pretty easy. unfortunately, when I tried it, I lost a ton of hair and my hair was not manageable at all. when I ran my fingers through my hair more hair would come out. I ended up rewashing my hair with Shampoo then Wen. This one was a fail or me ?

Yes, great tip! SCI is such a pain to melt, and I have definitely done similar things with my coffee grinder. You can also keep an eye out for powdered SCI. When I make my pastes now I tend to take an immersion blender to the mixture once the melting has made some progress and that is a huge help, though of course you have to be making a pretty big batch for an immersion blender to do much.

I can definitely understand! Developing new recipes is a constant battle between introducing new ingredients and trying to keep things accessible. I try to make sure that when I introduce something new it is worth owning ?

Hi Marie, I made this Conditioning shampoo once and decided to make some changes more suitable for my hair type. I have waist length hair, fine but thick. I found your shampoo way too heavy in conditioners and not enough cleansing action. I used Coco Glucoside instead instead of SCI. I used Cetyl alcohol and Glycerine instead of Glycol distearate. I omitted the BTMS-50 and Broccoli oil and used 5% Argan and 5% Baobab hydrolized protein. Instead of Guar gum I used Xanthan gum. I used Lavender instead of Labdanmum.

If I were to substitute the foaming silk for another surfactant, would it need to be anionic?

I ask because I have a couple non-ionic surfactants already and I wondered if I could use one of them instead of buying a new one.

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