THWAITES DUMPER (PH1 LISTER ENGINE)

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bitsandp...@gmail.com

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Feb 20, 2009, 3:48:44 PM2/20/09
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Hi All,

I am after buying an old Thwaites orline manual tip dumper - Handle
start, and I see you have a photo of one of these on your website
(Garys). I see he has converted his to electric start and was
wondering if you would be able to help me to do the same.
Could you please supply the details to me on how to do this? (or any
othere help)
or else please would Garys contact me for assistance.
I will post some photos next week.

Thanking you in advance ,

Michael Thornton.
Mullingar,
Co. Westmeath
Ireland.

Jim

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Feb 23, 2009, 10:06:47 AM2/23/09
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Hi Michael,

The Petter PH1 engine could be supplied as a handle start or there
were extra parts available to make it electric start. I have uploaded
a diagram and parts list into the group so you can see what is needed.
You would also need some wiring, a solenoid, alternator and the make a
safe place for the battery to live on the dumper.

Hope this helps

Jim


On 20 Feb, 20:48, "bitsandpieces...@gmail.com"

samuri360

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Apr 3, 2009, 6:27:18 AM4/3/09
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Hi, I coverterted ph1 engine to electric start quite easily, normally
you need a flywheel or clutch plate with a starter ring the
appropriate housing and a starter motor, i couldn't find any of the
item at a reasnable price so I thought about how else to do it. The
only part i had was a dynostart from a 10hp briggs and stratton engine
so ithought about running a belt round the flywheel but on calculation
the speed would be too slow and the clearance not enough around the
shroud. The only other way was to mount a pulley on the flywheel, the
only ones i had that were remotly big enough were from a range rover
water pump. I welded one to the flywheel (its castiron but still
attacted after 2 years) and bolted the other to that one. Then i made
a mount for the dynostart on the chassis with a simple tensioner out
of thick angle iron. It works brilliantly lots of people told me it
wouldnt work but its great, you just get it spinning fast then hit the
decompresion lever and hey presto she fires up! did it all for about
£40 of parts
if you want any photos let me know, tricky bit is welding pulley on
central but i had a dial gauge and got it pretty close doesnt have to
be spot on as engine doesnt rev high enough!
I have since aquired a large cement mixer (ava engine)that had a
hydraulic loader, it has a pulley on the flywheel end that would be
perfect and save alot of time lining up and welding, so i will
probably convert this to electric start as well!
hope this helps
if you want any pictures let me know

Gary

samuri360

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Apr 3, 2009, 6:40:11 AM4/3/09
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Hi Micheal if you want some pictures of the conversion I did let me
know, quite simple to do, cost me about £40 in bits would work on any
ph1 or ava engine that is not driving at the fly wheel end
cheers
gary

On 20 Feb, 21:48, "bitsandpieces...@gmail.com"
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Ian Pell

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Dec 21, 2013, 7:12:47 PM12/21/13
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Hi
Do you still have the photos of conversions to electric start? I'd like to see if I can do something the same on my winget which also has a PH1 engine...
Cheers
Ian
Message has been deleted

Jim

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Dec 24, 2013, 5:22:53 AM12/24/13
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Hi Ian,

I have now found the picture you wanted. What happened was that when Google updated the group from the old system to the new, all the pictures that had previously been uploaded by people were lost. They warned me this would happen so I backed them up locally as there were some useful ones. I have now had chance to search through them and found the the electric start conversion for the PH1.

Hope this helps, Jim

Barry Ashdown

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Dec 2, 2015, 12:45:47 AM12/2/15
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Hi Gary, only just come across the article you wrote regarding converting your dumper to an electric start, mine takes quite a bit of swinging and as i recently injured my right shoulder it's now too much for me to handle start my machine (It's a single cylinder PH1) so I was wondering if you still had any pictures and details on your conversion.  If so I would be really grateful Thanks Barry
email address:- weddi...@gmail.com  

Aanton Mann

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Dec 2, 2015, 4:31:14 PM12/2/15
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Hello Gary and Barry

Plz excuse me piggy-backing on this request, but I'm interested in both applications, with special emphasis on the cement mixer set up.
My ''Lister'' run mixer is a gert great thing which takes VAST amounts of mix, and chugs on very nicely WHEN I can start it [M/t]
Someone with biceps the size of a rugby ball will start it with ease, but on other occasions I've had to disconnect the drum, and then crank - leave the engine to warm up, close down, reconnect the drum, and crank again.
In  extremis, I've resorted to ether spray. 

Pix would be wonderful, plz.

Anthony

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Mike and Sue Raahauge

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Dec 4, 2015, 4:08:54 PM12/4/15
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Good evening everyone.
I had trouble starting my Johnston dumper with its PH2 engine and eventually settled on the following solution.
I have mounted a flywheel made from lorry brake discs mounted on bearings in front of (nearer to you) but in line with the engine flywheel.
A shaft to which one can attach the starting handle passes through this new flywheel and is free to slide in and out so that it can engage with the dog on the engine crankshaft.
A pin through the shaft runs in a slot in the new flywheel so that it rotates with the shaft but can still slide in and out.
With this arrangement one has the benefit of an extra flywheel when cranking. I have not measured it but the new flywheel is probably heavier than that on the engine.
The new flywheel does not have to be balanced as it only runs at cranking speed and disengages when the engine fires.
The system works well.
The only snag seems to be that if one is a bit half hearted when cranking and the engine kicks back it can shear the pin (by trying to reverse the rotation of the new flywheel) but that is preferable to the damage it did to my thumb when it used to kick back before I fitted this device.
Hope this may help someone.
Is there anyone else out there with an articulated 4wd Johnstone dumper? – would be interested to compare notes.
Regards
Mike

Aanton Mann

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Dec 6, 2015, 5:55:56 PM12/6/15
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Wonderful
Any pix, plz?

AAA

Mike and Sue Raahauge

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Dec 7, 2015, 5:24:56 PM12/7/15
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I’ll take some at the weekend.
Regards.

Aanton Mann

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Dec 7, 2015, 8:56:23 PM12/7/15
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Thank you VERY much indeed.

Regards

AAA

Mike and Sue Raahauge

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Dec 12, 2015, 1:23:52 PM12/12/15
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Aanton
Attached some pics.  27 and 29 show the shaft engaged with the engine. 28 shows it disengaged.
I used 2 discs bolted either side of a flange welded to a bit 2.25 inch bar.
This has a bore of I.5 inches plus a bit of clearance and is slotted as can be seen in the pics. The shaft is 1.5 inches diam.
The whole assembly is mounted on a couple of old ball bearings.
The dimensions are not important of course, its a matter of what you can lay your hands on. 
As the discs I cadged were ventilated I poured some lead into the holes to add to the weight.
Curiously I had another PH2 on a logging saw which was very easy to start. This one however has a real bite and until I fitted this device I was always anxious about starting – if I didn’t manage to start it on the first go then my reduced energy increased the risk of a kick back.
Hope this helps.
Best wishes.
Mike
When I tried to send this message it flagged that some pictures may not be sent. There are 5 pics – tell me if you don’t get all/any.
025.JPG
029.JPG
032.JPG
027.JPG
028.JPG

Aanton Mann

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Dec 12, 2015, 6:25:36 PM12/12/15
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Hello, Mike

V briefly
1)..... HUGE thnxs for pix & info
2)..... ALL 5 of 5 pix arrived and have been opened
3)..... LARGE amounts of admiration for your engineering design and execution

Kind regards

Aanton
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