E10 Scooter Controller
Katina Piccirilli
To load test the battery pack test its Voltage with the power switch off, and then while watching the Voltage level turn the power switch on and twist the throttle. If the battery pack Voltage drops to 23 Volts or less then the battery pack will need to be replaced. A good battery pack will drop less than 1 Volt while under load. Controllers turn off power to the motor when they detect a battery pack Voltage of between 21.5 through 23 Volts.
We do not have any specifications for the proper resistance value of electric scooter motors, The motor's resistance should vary widely depending on the position of its shaft so that could be a difficult value to determine with certainty. We usually test motors by wiring them directly to a battery or battery pack to see if they run.
The 24.52 Volt battery pack Voltage is very low as it should be between 27-28 Volts after being fully charged. Each battery should recharge to and maintain a 13.8 Volt charge. Although the battery pack did not drop lower than 23 Volts during the test I would still be suspect of it since it is not holding its charge. It could be possible that the controller has a higher low-Voltage cut off value than normal, so I would inquire with the seller of the controller to see if there is a specification sheet available for the controller which states what its low-Voltage cut off value is.
This can be determined by observing the behavior of your electric scooter. If the scooter is not responding to the throttle or is experiencing sudden surges in speed, it is likely that the speed controller needs repairing. However, if the scooter is not starting at all, it may be necessary to bypass the speed controller.
It is generally recommended to seek professional help when repairing a speed controller. This is because it involves working with electrical components and can be dangerous if not done correctly. However, if you have experience working with electronics and understand the inner workings of the speed controller, you may be able to repair it yourself.
The tools required may vary depending on the specific speed controller and scooter model. However, some common tools that may be needed are a screwdriver, wire cutters/strippers, soldering iron, and electrical tape. It is important to refer to the manufacturer's instructions or seek professional advice to ensure you have the correct tools and know how to use them safely.
Bypassing the speed controller can be a temporary solution to getting your electric scooter to work, but it is not recommended as a long-term solution. Bypassing the speed controller means removing a safety feature that controls the speed of the scooter, which can be dangerous. It is best to have the speed controller repaired or replaced by a professional to ensure the safety and proper functioning of your electric scooter.
To prevent the need for repairing or bypassing the speed controller in the future, it is important to regularly maintain your electric scooter. This includes checking for loose connections, cleaning the scooter, and keeping it protected from extreme weather conditions. It is also important to use the scooter within its recommended weight limit and avoid overloading it, as this can put strain on the speed controller and other components.
I'm currently working on a project with an electric scooter, I intend to install a larger battery into the scooter and also replace the stock 300W controller for a VESC. BUT I want to keep the original screen as it looks nice and also has built-in Bluetooth to connect to an app, also it'll be a learning curve for logic analysing, as I haven't dabbled in that arena unit now. I plan on using an Arduino to communicate between the new VESC and translate to the old screen.
So far as my understanding goes, the scooter has the screen (BLE) containing TX RX pins connected to the motor speed controller, the screen has the throttle/brake inputs, then talks to the controller (presumably communicating throttle/brake/errors/faults/scooter speed between each other)
using a logic analyzer, I have interpreted signals sent between the 2 devices (screen/motor controller) and I have absolutely no idea what these signals represent or mean... I'm not even sure if I have the appropriate settings in Sigrok pulseview software, (i have found that baud of 9600/ and 8-bit data bits looks correct and throws up no errors.
I have taken several readings when the scooter's telemetry was at different states to try and find an obvious correlation between the readings and the telemetry. I have set the data format to HEX, for no specific reason other than seeing other people on youtube using HEX to read UART. the first data package (leftmost) is the TX from the screen to the controller and the last data package(rightmost) is RX from the motor speed controller to the screen.
if anyone could explain what these signals could mean or how best to find out, it'll be much appreciated. please feel free to give me a dummies explanation of the basic operation of the UART protocol.
I think the last byte in each message is a checksum. The last two sent messages have these differences:
DA 89 B2
D9 8B B3
Note that D9 is 1 lower than DA and 8B is two higher than 89. Add them together and you get B3 being one greater than B2.
Any detailed info showing easy to follow wiring diagram and shopping/parts list including where to get plugs/connectors, throttle, and/or wiring/wiring harness and anything else I might require, like fuse holder, charger connector, breaker reset, connector crimping tool would be greatly appreciated.
A 24 Volt 500 Watt controller such as our SPD-24500Bwould be well suited replace the original controller onthe HCF Pacelite 705 electric scooter. A new throttlewould also need to be installed along with the newcontroller because the existing Pacelite 705 throttle hasa lot of wires and is would be very difficult to figure outwhich wires would go the the new controller. Howeverwith a new throttle I could draw a wiring diagramshowing how the connect the new controller and throttletogether.
I do not have a wiring diagram for the Pacelite 705scooter so I am not able to make a conversion wiringdiagram, however the new controller has wiringdirections which show which parts its connectors go to.So all that would need to be determined is which wiresgo to the battery pack, motor, power switch, etc.The wiring harness and plugs would need to be figuredout as the new controller was being installed. We cansupply connectors that match all of the controller'sconnectors so everything can be on the workbenchbefore starting the project. Our connectors requiresoldering or a special crimping tool which we sell toattach the wires onto the connectors. The scootershould already have a charger port and fuse holder orcircuit breaker that can be reused, or a new ones couldbe purchased.
Additionally I want the on/off button on the throttle. On my old set up I had both, throttle switch on the handlebar andkeyed switch on the battery compartment. The throttle switch allows me to temporarily turn off the throttle without having to remove the key which is located on the side of the battery compartment. This way, when someone is helping up/down stairs and they unknowing touch the throttle, the scooter doesn't take off.
Wow I haven't seen a Zing Ear circuit breaker for a while, I do remember them on the older scooter models though. The circuitbreaker typically gets wired into the positive wire that goes between the battery pack and controller.
I narrowed it down to a blown MOSFET related to one of the motor leads. The MOSFET beeped with the continuity test so I concluded it was blown. I tried replacing the MOSFET, at first with one that had the same model number as the originals and after that blew as well I upgraded to a slightly more powerful MOSFET that blew as well.
The MOSFETs blow pretty much immediately after trying to ride the scooter. At first when I put everything back together, the motor spins freely, then when I try to ride it, immediately the motor starts vibrating and eventually dies in like 3 meters of riding. I can accelerate without load and seems to be fixed, but right after adding load, the motor starts vibrating and the MOSFET blows.
Has anyone here on this forum repaired Ninebot ES4 (or similar) motor controllers with the same issue? What can I try? I have two boards like this that I would like to learn how to fix this kind of issue with.
Info:Original MOSFETs on the board: NCEP01T13A (Tried replacing with same model from another dead controller)Secondly tried replacing with: IRF3808 (It was the closest match I could find that was sold in my country)
I see for D1X resistor can be seen darker/damaged, check it. See too for ceramic capacitor near mosfet and reisitor D1C bellow for cold solder and check/replace pulse diode. It is worth measuring or preferably replacing the current resistor R002 on the right side of the mosfet.
Up until recently I rode a Gotrax E-Scooter to work every day. The scooter retailed for $300, but the value was incredible. I did not have to pay for gas to get to work or a parking spot that costs an arm and a leg. However, after about a year and a half of driving the scooter daily the battery started to lose charge quickly and there were a couple other mechanical issues that forced me to stop riding the scooter. Instead of purchasing a new scooter, I decided to go the DIY route as an excuse to use all my newly minted CNC machines to build a one-off scooter that fits my needs.
As mentioned in the introduction, this project requires machinery not found in the average garage, namely, the CNC mill and plasma cutter. If you have the money, then you can supply the files in the downloadable section to a machine shop and they can make you the parts. However, this method will be extremely cost prohibitive and it may be better to use this project as an excuse to build your own CNC mill.
What I discovered later was that while there seems to be an infinite number of brands selling scooter electronics, most of these resellers are using the same OEM parts, which are all compatible with each other or are wired in such a way to accept multiple types of components or motors. For example, the motor controller that I used could be programmed to work with motors that had a different number of magnetic poles. Further, the diameter of the hub motor could also be entered into the controller so that the speedometer on the LCD reported the correct speed.
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