Rigs Of Rods Release Date

[Geralyn]

In 2016, we (the RoR developers) released version 0.4.7.0. During the following years, lots of bugfixes and new features were added. We wanted to include them all with the next release, 0.4.8.0, but new bugs and technical issues prevented us from doing so.

But as we made more changes and bugfixes, mods became dependent on the development builds to function properly. The current stable release (0.4.7.0) became too old to support them. However, the game still had some major glitches holding back an official 0.4.8.0 release. As a solution, we decided to release 0.4.8 RC4 as a replacement to 0.4.7.0, followed by RC5 a few months later.

With RoR now considered 'stable enough' to do another stable release, we wanted to break away from release candidates. The original plan was to finally officially release 0.4.8.0, however compatibility issues with the Documents user folder (explained below) made it nearly impossible to correctly handle upgrades. After long discussions on Discord and GitHub(1 / 2) we ultimately decided to change the version format.

Since 0.38, the user directory, where mods and configuration files are stored, was named after the version number (Rigs of Rods 0.38/0.39/0.4). All 0.4 versions have used the same Documents\Rigs of Rods 0.4 directory. Over time, the config file format has received major updates, making it increasingly difficult to be backwards compatible. In most cases, attempting to upgrade from older versions caused RoR to either outright crash or have other major glitches.

Starting with version 2020.01, the user directory has been moved to Documents\My Games\Rigs of Rods. The My Games folder is used by a large amount of modern Windows games to store configuration files, so it is fitting for RoR to use it as well.

On first run, players with the old directory will receive a notice about the directory change. To continue using your mods, you will have to move your mod directories (mods on recent RCs, or packs,terrains, and vehicles on older versions) to the new My Games\Rigs of Rods directory. RoR itself will not move the folders to prevent data loss. The Installing content page has been updated for the new directory.

The Mono Rig is a long leader fly fishing system. It is used for fishing nymphs on both a tight line and under an indicator, and for fishing streamers, wets, dry flies and dry dropper rigs. The thick leader butt section of the Mono Rig functions as a fly line substitute. Contact, control and strike detection are dramatically improved by taking away the weight and sag of a fly line, providing the angler a better opportunity to convincingly present flies to a trout.

Two and three weight, extra long rods have grown in popularity in the competition circles, in part, because the thin, flexible tips are better for playing small fish without them coming unbuttoned. These rods also flex more under the relatively light payloads of nymphing with small flies.

In short, they are specialized rods. I prefer a general rod that gives me the freedom to throw a pair of heavy streamers in the morning, fish a light dry dropper in the afternoon, and fish a tight line indicator rig in the evening. Again, for me it comes back to versatility.

The mono pull through happens when the butt section slips into the crack between the frame and the spool of the fly reel. Some reels have a larger gap than others. And the longer you use a reel, the wider that gap can become. On some reels with tighter tolerances, the mono pull through problem is negligible.

Full cage reels eliminate the problem, but the extra frame piece adds weight to the reel. Sage solved that issue by using carbon fiber for the spool on the 3850. But it is no longer manufactured. To my knowledge, the 3850 is the only trout sized full cage reel light enough to be a viable solution for anglers using 2-5 weight rods.

In the Mono Rig formula above, you can see that I prefer to taper my sighter. Essentially, I use two sighters connected to each other (the Amnesia and Gold Stren is one, and the Rio Bi-Color is the other). Most often, I leave both sighters connected, ending with the 1x Bi-Color. But when I plan to do a lot of tight-line to the indicator fishing, or when want to use a larger more air resistant fly for dry dropper, I often take the Rio Bi-Color out and use the thicker, stiffer sighter.

The setup cast keeps you in control on the river. It allows for repositioning and redirecting the line, leader and fly to the next target. The setup cast gives you a chance to regroup and rethink, too. It keeps you in rhythm by keeping you out of trouble and lending new options to an active angler.

I do still use Gudebrod 20lb Orange Dacron backing for the Backing Barrel. Gudebrod is out of business, but I have a good stock of it from a while back. Other backing works, but I like Gudebrod for how little it frays and for how crazy bright it is.

-flyreels.se/en/
I got the F3W 7ten for steelhead and loved it so much I got the 4seven for my trout rod. They also have a smaller reel.
The quality of the reel equals that of a $600 one in my opinion. They only sell their reels off their website so theirs no middleman and they have what appears to be a permanent sale which brings the price down to about $200 shipped to the USA. They also have other higher end models
-Luke

So what is a Neko rig is the question most anglers new to the rig want to know. The Neko rig came through intervention on the very popular technique the wacky rig. The wacky rig effectively catches bass because of its seductive horizontal shimmy on the fall. And it can be lifted and dropped over and over again. Problem was when it was on bottom it just laid there looking like nothing blending into the bottom. And in deep water, you would get old waiting for it to get to the fish.

So guys started experimenting with the rig. Using weighted Flick Shake heads and putting nail weights into the body. And eventually they head. Then they found the bait dropped, spiraled and shimmied, but when it got to the bottom it could be worked with a lot of action as well. So it was great for a bit deeper water and when fish were really locked on the bottom. Not a replacement for the wacky. Which is why you still need to know when to wacky vs Neko.

To rig a Neko rig you simply need your worm of choice, usually a straight tail or stick bait works well but anglers have Neko-rigged small craws and other baits with success as well. Then all that is needed is an o-ring, hook and nail weight to insert into the bait. Essentially you just need to get a few steps right for the Neko rig to its fullest potential.

You can use an o-ring tool or o-ring pliers or simply wet the o-ring and then slide it onto a narrow end of the bait and slide it on. Position it slightly off center towards the head to give more tail action.

Push a 1/32 to 3/32 ounce nail weight into the head of your worm. You can leave a little sticking out to feel the bottom a little better with your weight. Or use a nail weight that has a weight on the end of it that scrapes along the bottom and transmits a more sensitive feel to your rod.

This part is fairly critical. The nail weight is going to force the nose of the worm down. So as you fish it the nose is down and the tail is up. So you want to be sure when you run your hook under the o-ring that the hook point faces up towards the tail so that the hook point has a better hook-up percentage.

The nice thing about a Neko rig is it can still fall like a wacky rig (if you use a lighter weight). But then when it hits bottom, you can make it stand and dig in the silt while the tail or flappers flail and flip around attracting fish with its lively action. You can then fish it a lot like a shaky head or other normal type worm technique. Or you can lift and let it drop again.

Lots of good nail weights on the market and just about any will work. Tungsten gives you a lot smaller weight for the same weight so you can use smaller worms with tungsten nail weights. Some newer designs have balls or bullet points on the end to make it fish more like a traditional shaky head or Texas-rigged worm.

After Nail weights you need the right hook for Neko rigging. The hooks most everyone is using nowadays derived from a saltwater fly hook that guys were getting from Gamakatsu to Neko rig in professional tournaments.

When Brett Hite showed off what a Neko rig could do at Bassmaster Elite on Kentucky Lake, the cat was out of the bag. I can remember the ugly things other competitors said about Hite at that tourney because they had been keeping it under wraps and winning a lot of money on the rig and Hite spilled the beans. And the industry took notice and next thing you know we went from no neko nail weights or neko hooks to a pot full of them.

Basically the shape of the neko hook everyone has settled on gives you a really good pull point when a fish picks it up off the bottom or on the fall where there is no hook set. You just pull into the fish and they are pinned.

Neko rods are a matter of preference. I know a handful of guys that fish Neko rigs on bait casting gear, but I prefer it on spinning setups or bait finesse setups. A medium light rod is perfect for Neko rigging. You have the right balance of skipping, accurate casting and fighting big bass on light line.

So you want a rod that can cast well, stick a light wire hook in a big bass and play down a fish. A light action rod is not enough in my opinion and a medium heavy rod will struggle with small Neko rigs or light weights. So medium light to medium is the sweet spot for a Neko rig rod.

Flies tied to look and act like lures, custom rigs, and purpose-built leaders are commonplace in a fly fishing culture that is steadily moving away from its tweed-clad roots. One of my favorite nuggets of wisdom adapted from outside of the fly fishing world is the drop shot rig.

Bass fisherman have been successfully jigging soft plastics on drop shot rigs for decades. Rigged for the fly rod, drop shotting works great for targeting trout and salmon in water that is too deep and fast for even the heaviest nymphs.

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