God Of War Pc Best Settings
Raingarda Krzynowek
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Looking for best settings for timelaps to make a smoother video without taxing the Pi too much.
FPS is 25 and minimum interval is 5.. set to trigger on Z change , what changes would give me a longer smoother video?
What would be nice would be a version of the timelapse video settings which would take a photo in exactly the same X/Y position each frame so that you just see the part building rather than the hectic nature of the extruder assembly itself.
The z change does do that on cylinders if you have the start postilion set to a specific spot.. (S3d option) Come to think of it, the reason I am asking this is I have had that set to optimize for faster print lately and didn't realize until now that is probably why the last few videos have been so crazy! Will try timed and see how that looks. Thanks!
Norm! Hey what settings are you using? I installed and guessed at it.. got a 10 hour print starting.. will the original tab for time laps still make a video even with the plugin running? Or does the plugin supersede the default timelaps? Heading to google to see if there is a dock on that plugin
I'm beginning the biggest project I've done in PP - a 3 minute video portfolio, and I'm looking for recommendations for the best settings to start with that might serve me well /be unlikely to cause grief for the next 5 years at least.
Choosing one from all the new project settings is confusing - I don't know which works best for what. All I know is 1920x1080 would be good but not sure about frame rate (or other concerns?). I'll be importing some cell phone footage, but mostly this video will be static images in motion with voiceover. (I could do most of it in AfterEffects but I like PP).
The only things that matters is the correct frame size, the correct frame rate and the correct aspect ratio. If you have 1920x1080, 23,976 fps, 1.0 PAR thats what you want your timeline to be. There is no setting for "best" or "better than..." quality. If you however have 1920x1080, 23,976 footage and put it on a 720x576, 25 timeline you will loose quality. Always aim for the sequence settings that matches your footage. When using Presets i often choose from the Canon XF MPEG2 or Digital SLR, or use the Settings tab and set everything manually.
Selecting the preview codec is only important if you will render effects on the timeline that are too heavy to playback in realtime and when you use those renders to speed up the final export. The latter is not a must.
Thanks. I guess what most concerns me is the most usable and forgiving frame rate for my needs - web delivery. I would guess if I used 30fps, it might be better in the future if I needed PP to convert and export, for example, to a slower frame rate, rather than starting with 23,976 and converting it to 30.
I dont know what your needs are, but you wont gain anything if you per your example convert 23.976 to 30 fps. The result will be the look of 23.976 in a 30 fps video stream. It wont be more fluid just by choose a higher frame rate when exporting. Unless, you are mixing fram rates on the timeline. Then it can and will make a difference, but 23.976 will still look like 23.976 even if you export it as 60 fps.
To meet your needs you must choose the frame rate when shooting. If you want smooth motion, use a higher frame rate. If you want more stutter, choose a slower frame rate when shooting. Planning is the keyword here.
I already started the project with the default settings from dropping an iPhone vid (scrncap) into the timeline - 30fps, 1920x1080, Square pixels, 48,000Hz audio sample rate - when it occurred to me I might have trouble down the road because I'm just a PP hobbyist atm, and it might be necessary in the future for some reason IDK why to convert frame rate or pixel dimension.
I know more is better. I would never set up a 23,976 project knowing in the future I'd need to export 30fps. But converting 30 to 23,976 seems like it would be more forgiving - ie, fewer glitches. Unlikely I'll need to do this, so just curious...
With web delivery, file size vs streaming/buffering have been issues in the past, although universal broadband is changing things. And since this is a portfolio vid, I want to setup the PP doc with the highest practical resolution that keeps my needs in mind.
If the goal is to deliver to YT/Vimeo fram rate is nothing to worry about. They take the frame rate you upload. Using 23.976 will be ok, so is 60. Converting frame rates is something you do when you have no other option than to do it, when there is a need for it. Thats the only time one to do that.
You do however have a good reason to convert your iPhone footage to a constant frame rate before you start to edit it. All smartphones record using variable frame rate. Variable frame rate+Premiere Pro do many times cause issues such as audio drift in the exported media. Premiere Pro wants constant frame rate.
I'm using an EOS RP with either an RF24-105 mm F4-7.1 IS STM or RF100-400 mm F5.6-8 IS USM lens (depending on where I can plant myself on the sidelines/courtside). Right now I'm shooting basketball games indoors with decent lighting. My current settings are sports mode and auto focus. With 10 players running on the court, I'm finding it difficult to get a crisp image of the player I had in focus. I'd love a general cheat sheet of settings I can adjust to get sharper images. Thank you!
There aren't any settings that will work 100% in every situation. The best settings to use will vary depending on things like light levels at the location and the type of shot you are looking for. Sports photography is also a broad enough subject that we wouldn't be able to go over everything that could apply in one forum post. There are some general things to keep in mind and we do have helpful learning articles that can help get you started on your sports photography journey.
Sport mode on the camera is a good place to start out. In that mode the camera is in control of most of the settings and you do not have much room to make adjustments in that mode. If you want to start making adjustments to improve your photos you would need to look at using a mode like P, Tv, Av, or M. Sports photographers most commonly use either Tv or M mode. In P mode the camera controls the aperture and shutter speed. In Tv mode you control the shutter speed and the camera controls the aperture. In Av mode you control the aperture and the camera controls the shutter speed. In M mode you are in control of both the aperture and shutter speed.
The shutter speed can help with motion blur. The faster the shutter speed the less motion blur you will see. The trade off is that the faster the shutter speed the less time the camera sensor has to gather light, so in lower light conditions that can cause under exposed photos.
Aperture can help with your depth of field. That is how wide of an area is in focus. Smaller aperture values means the iris in the lens is more open, and that will give you a more shallow depth of field. That would have your subject in focus and the background blurred. Higher aperture values means the iris in the lens is more closed, and that will give you a wider depth of field. That would have your subject and more of the area around them in focus. Like with shutter speed the trade off is that the more closed the aperture is the less light gets to the sensor, so higher aperture values can cause under exposed photos.
Another thing to look at would be to have your AF Operation set to Servo. With that set once you start having the camera focus it will continually adjust the focus to match your subject as they move closer or further away from the camera. Since there is typically a lot of movement in sports it can help with focusing.
We have additional helpful learning articles that go over different types of photography and ways to shoot it HERE. We also have a helpful guide going over the different settings like shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and others HERE. If you would like to view the full manual for your EOS RP it is available HERE. Once you are on the web page click on the Manuals button and the one to reference is named EOS RP Advanced User Guide.
First I want to say that Hazel_T offered a lot of excellent advice.
Adding to her comments...
I owned the RP for 4 years. I did a fair amount of sports photography with it, mostly as a finish line photographer for marathons and triathlons. While every shot wasn't focused perfectly, a good 95% of them were... and this was doing some rapid fire shots... usually ended up with 6,000(ish) shots for four hours of shooting. The RP is very capable. Most of my shooting was on AF set to servo, ISO between 100-800 (depending on time of day... closer to 100 as it got lighter). Sports mode is fine. I shoot sports in Tv mode (shutter priority) and set the speed on 1/500 to make sure I freeze movement.
The main thing I see that might be somewhat limiting is your aperture on both lenses. If your budget allows, and you could find a lens (even used) with an F/2.8 aperture, it would make a world of difference. Even an inexpensive nifty fifty with a F/1.8 might not get you as close up as you want (take your 24-105 lens to the basketball court, set it at 50mm, and pan around to see if it works), but you would end up with a lot more keeper shots.