Rc Crawler Brazing
Cheryll Witting
SMC Bands are ideal for cutting in tight spaces. The Right Angle Drive Attachment, attached to the flexible whip, is used to cut and bevel pipe with only 6 inches of clearance in the bell hole. Flexible stainless steel beveling bands on this pipe beveler adapt to the pipe and permit the crawler to smoothly and consistently cut and bevel the pipe, even if it is misshapen.
Band Type Pipe Beveling Machines are lightweight and flexible allowing a single-operator to set up on pipes as large as 48 inches in diameter. One crawler fits all band sizes, making this pipe beveler a practical option for cutting and beveling multiple pipe sizes. Furthermore, all Sawyer pipe beveling machines have multiple accessories to adjust to any pipe beveling condition.
The Motorized Crawler converts the traditional manual machine into a motorized machine with an industrial brushless motor for durability and long life. This motor kit comes standard with an AC Adapter but also has the unique option to be powered with a 20 volt (Dewalt Style) battery for 6+ hours of cutting time on a fully charged battery.
I should have added more detail to my last post. To get the pins through the springs you will have to push down on the coil portion of the springs to line things up. This also pre loads the springs placing the pressure plate under tension effectively mounting it to the outer ring.
The cam arms are installed next (grease the rollers first) followed by the solid wear ring and finally the adjustment ring. I don't know if this holds true for the dozers vs tractors however, with tractors I am able to assemble the clutch with friction disk and the entire yoke/throwout assembly and install it as a complete unit. Its very tight at install, but it goes in.
I have the main clutch back in with new clutch disk and 4 new springs. Just finished cleaning up and rebuilding the left hand steering clutch with all new discs (steel and fiber from general gear, thanks John!). I also went with new pilot, thrust bearings and a new bevel compartment seal. I still need to install the seal but there is a gap on one side of the rubber and want to make sure it goes in correctly. Anyone done this? Still need to repeat all this for the right side.
The reason I got a new seal is because the transmission and bevel compartment were filled with thick grease (no flow to it and very tacky). The bottom inspection covers were also missing. My theory is that the seals were leaking bad so the old timer just dropped the bottom inspection covers and filled up the compartments with grease. Need to figure out how to flush the system and put the heavy wt oil in. After the clutches are in I need to work on reclining my brakes. Found a good thread on here that pointed me to the correct material and rivets from McMaster carr.
Transmission and differential compartments are common, they use the same oil, so what you see in the differential is also in the trans. Only one drain plug, under the differential so taking the top cover off the transmission and pulling all the gears will be your next project. Big question is why where they pumping grease in there in the first place.
I pulled the plug on the trans housing and tried to drain out as much gunk as possible. It appears that the transmission goop will not drain through the bevel plug. They are connected right? What is the round cap thing underneath the crawler next to the drain plug? Is there just a small hole that connects the two compartments that could be plugged up?
Both compartments drain thru the one hole in the rear, all of the trans fluid has to run thru the rear main ball bearing in the transmission, so if it was just gear oil, it would take awhile. I don't think you are going to get much of that to just run out, you may have to add some diesel to what is in there and run it for awhile to mix it and then drain. Refill with diesel and repeat. Might be a long process.
Like you said, the diesel will run out where the drive shafts go from the bevel gear into the steering clutches. The covers have seals for the shafts and gaskets where the covers bolt to the housing. I think the big round "plug" on the bottom is just part of the steel casting process that was left over from manufacturing. I have 5 main frames and they all have it, but I see no use for it.
Stupid me, I was relying on my memory again and it has failed me. What I said about the trans gear oil having to drain back thru the bearing was wrong. I just walked out and looked at the case I have in the scrap pile and there is a horizontal slot in the case wall between the trans and bevel compartment, about a half inch high, 1 1/2 inches long to drain the oil thru. I would still be slow draining that paste you have thru there but it would eventually. I think that casting boss could be drilled for a drain hole, but I can't see a benefit to do it. Either hole will drain both compartments. I did not measure for it, but I think that boss is under the very rear of the trans compartment.
As greasy as that is I think I would go for it and use gasoline to try to cut it. The grease of goop doesn't look like it will come out without a fight! You have a good start at getting it cleaned up in there! You can do it!
You might start with a hot water pressure washer if you have access to one. You will need to do a couple of oil changes to get rid of the last little bit of water, but it might move the grease easier.
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