Hose Clamp 2.5 Inch

[Adam Makin]

The Mikalor Supra W2 is a high performance Stainless Steel 4" T Bolt Hose Clamp that is heavy duty and made to last. The unique single bolt tightening system allows you to tighten the clamp with a socket or open end wrench; no more screw drivers and stripped threads with normal gear clamps. These quality 4 inch hose clamps are designed for rugged use on a variety of hoses and high pressure applications. Our 4" hose clamp is 104-112 mm and fits 4.09" - 4.41" outside diameter hoses. This clamp size is used with our 4" red heavy duty hose assemblies.

A Hose Clamp is a device designed to secure a hose over a fitting, such as a spigot or barb. By clamping the hose down, it prevents the fluid in the hose from leaking at the connection. Hose clamps are used in a variety of industries to secure the transportation of products, liquids, gases, and chemicals.

All you have to do is locate the minimum and the maximum diameter of a hose clamp before you buy one. The diameter that is slightly larger than your measured diameter is what you should choose on a hose clamp size chart.

Some people also like to choose a specific manufacturer when buying a hose clamp to ensure the durability and build of a hose clamp, which is important as well. So if you can easily find the hose clamp of your required size, you also have the option to choose any manufacturer you like.

Miniature Worm Drive Hose ClampsMiniature worm drive hose clamps are commonly called micro hose clamps. They typically have a 5/16" wide band and a 1/4" slotted hex head screw. The construction can be made with a combination of stainless steel bands and zinc plated or stainless steel screws.

Worm drive or worm gear hose clamps are the most commonly used hose clamp. The clamps typically have a 1/2" wide band and a 5/16" slotted hex head screw. Not recommended for use with soft/silicone hoses or tubes. The hose clamps are manufactured in compliance with ANSI/SAE J 1670 recognized standard, entitles "Type F clamps for plumbing applications".

These hi-torque worm clamps are the style meant when referring to jubilee clips. They feature a helical-threaded screw, or worm gear, which is housed in the clamp. When the screw is turned, it acts like a worm drive pulling the threads of the band. The band then tightens around the hose or tube.

The high clamping force makes this a heavy-duty jubilee clip. Available as stainless-steel or steel hose clamps, these are ideal when space is restricted or hard to reach. NOT recommended for soft or silicone hose. For small hose assemblies, consider mini worm-drive hose clamps.

Hose clamps are generally made in carbon steel, stainless steel or plastics. Plastic hose clamps are a cost-efficient alternative to metals, but only in particular applications. Plastics are also corrosion resistant, and so is stainless steel. Extra-large stainless steel hose clamps are available for bigger assemblies. For heavy-duty applications, consider steel for its strength.

If youre a boat owner, chances are youve used-and cursed-more hose clamps than you care to count. Their use is ubiquitous for onboard systems: fresh water, gray water, sanitation lines, through-hulls, fuel lines, engine cooling, exhaust hoses, propeller shafts, etc. And while we should all use good-quality, doubled stainless-steel clamps, there are some applications where using a high-quality hose clamp is critical-such as on engine hoses under pressure or through-hulls.

Stainless steel is a corrosion-resistant alloy that comes in varying grades and finishes. Grading stainless steel is complicated, and standards are different around the world. In marine hose clamps, the stainless should have a minimum of 10-percent chromium, but better grades have up to 25-percent chromium, and added nickel, manganese, or molybdenum helps resist corrosion and makes them virtually non-magnetic. Grades 430 and 440 are common for general purpose, but for marine use, the stainless should be at least 304. A 316 grade, which is used in food and surgical applications, is best for onboard use because it has more molybdenum. Some clamps are stamped with the grade, but most just say stainless steel, so it can be hard to know what youre getting.

An easy do-it-yourself test to gauge the grade of stainless is to take a magnet along when you shop for hose clamps. If the clamp is very magnetic, its likely to corrode more quickly in a saltwater environment. Be sure to magnet-test all components of the clamp, especially the bolt and bolt housing. Manufacturers often incorporate other metals into the hose-clamp design-like a stainless band with brass bolts or bolt housings-because pressing together two stainless parts (like a nut and bolt, or the band, bolt, and housing of a hose clamp) can cause pitting and galling, which can lead to premature corrosion. These magnetic components are usually the first to corrode, as our tests have shown. Also look for No. 316 SS markings on the band.

To get an idea of the quality of hose clamps available and what type of onboard working life they may have, Practical Sailor launched a series of bench tests using the brands commonly found at marine chandleries and hardware stores, as well as one hose clamp from an automotive parts store.

Practical Sailor evaluated stainless-steel hose clamps from 11 manufacturers. We are aware of six other hose-clamp brands that were not included-either because they were not available locally or they are only marketed to boat makers or commercial industries.

Two of the test clamps, the Shields 720-2000 and the Trident 720-2140, are the smooth-banded T-bolt design; comparing them to the others is a bit of apples to oranges. The T-bolt clamps are typically more expensive than regular hose clamps, and because they are only available in larger diameters, they are best suited for use at the marine head outlet or in exhaust systems.

Seven of the test clamps are tightened via a worm-screw mechanism with a regular bolt, bolt housing, and a perforated band. The other two worm-drive clamps, the ABA and AWAB, feature bands with embossed indentations rather than perforated holes.

On saltwater boats, all stainless-steel gear should be non-magnetic, which indicates better corrosion resistance than magnetic metals. For marine use, stainless steel should have sufficient non-ferrous metals to de-magnetize the iron molecules.

With that in mind, we started the bench testing with a simple magnet test of the whole hose clamp, then its individual components like the bolt and bolt housing. (Testers noted the results in the accompanying Test Results table.) Some showed no magnetism, and others showed varying degrees, so we applied a numerical value to the results of each part for a more specific representation. The sum quotient of each clamp is given in the table; the lower the number, the better the corrosion resistance.

Testers also measured the thickness of the metal bands with a digital micrometer. We did not compare weight, because not all bands were the same length and the bolt housing designs varied. All clamps were closely examined and compared for quality of construction and workmanship. The relative finish and polish of each clamp were considered, but they were all pretty much the same, and how shiny they are does not correlate to function or longevity. The same is true for smoothness and ease of turning the bolt; some may be a little more difficult to turn, but not so much that it would be a determining factor in choosing a hose clamp.

The testing also compared compression, torque failure, and corrosion resistance. For the compression testing, we tightened each clamp to 50 inch-pounds and used a specialized digital meter to measure clamp compression at that torque. The manufacturers we spoke with generally agreed that a torque of 45 to 60 inch-pounds is sufficient for critical hose compression (through hulls, exhaust hose), and that 15 to 20 inch-pounds is normal for non-critical hoses (potable water supply lines).

The less torque needed to achieve good compression, the less chance of failure at the bolt, so any clamps that generated greater compression at 50 inch-pounds of torque (and we found two clear winners) would be considered superior.

Based on our experience, corrosion is the chief cause of failure, so we were most interested in the clamps resistance to corrosion. All test clamps were attached to a 2-inch PVC pipe and immersed in a saltwater bath for 12 weeks. Testers observed each clamp weekly for signs of corrosion. The ratings are comparable to the field with Excellent ratings denoting no corrosion at all and Poor ratings given to those that began corroding only a week or two into the test. Although we are confident in these initial findings, we plan to continue testing for corrosion resistance to see if anything changes.

The Shields Rubber Co. was merged into Sierra Supply, then taken over by Teleflex Marine Inc. You may find the same clamps marked Shields, Sierra, Uniflex, and other names, all made by the same manufacturer. We tested the 316 stainless-steel Shields T-bolt 720-2000 clamp (purchased from West Marine), which features a smooth, looped, and riveted -inch band, a stainless nut, and a long, stainless bolt.

The Shields showed minimal magnetism in its housing, but the coated clamp nut (Shields calls it silver coated) developed corrosion after 12 weeks in the saltwater bath. According to Shields, this coating failure is cosmetic and will not affect the integrity of the nut or clamp.

As the Shields T-bolt is clamped, it compresses very tightly and evenly around the hose. We squeezed our 2-inch PVC pipe to 180 inch-pounds of torque, at which point we ceased the test because the pipe began distorting. This was more pressure than any other hose clamp handled, except the Trident T-bolt, which tied the Shields performance. The Shields T-bolt also developed the least amount of compression at 50 inch-pounds of torque, likely due to the friction between the nut and bolt.

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