Iracing Camera Settings

[Nikita Desjardins]

Whileyour settings may vary depending on what you have as far as hardware and software are concerned, making sure the right things are selected is crucial to a good photo. Now, these are just my preferences, as other iRacing photographers might like more motion blur, or might be able to turn on some of the more draining features.

When sitting on the racing screen outside of the cockpit, when you hit CTRL and F12 together, a Camera Edit menu appears. While a lot of it can be used to create broadcast cameras for video purposes, there are a few key elements in here that can be used to get a perfect still shot.

Use the offset X, Y, and Z axes to move the lens of the virtual camera. The X-Axis is a forward and backward motion, the Y-Axis is a side-to-side motion, and the Z-Axis will move the camera up and down. If your aim type is AtCar, adjusting one axis might also change values for the others as it moves the camera while still pointed at the car.

Once the picture is nudged into place, and you have everything basically set, change the aim to Static. The Static aim will be useful to get that perfectly framed shot. The Orient takes the camera and moves it on a directional axis, but at a fixed point. Yaw (Y-Axis) under Orient tilts the lens side-to-side. Pitch (P-Axis) will tilt it up or down.

There are a few annoying things to keep an eye out for. These are shortcomings of the game but important to keep in mind for the best looking images. One fatal flaw is clipping, where objects will go inside of other objects. This is like cars in other cars, tires into the pavement or dirt, debris flying through solid surfaces like walls, etc. If you can avoid clipping, it will look so much better.

I agree 100% and have been using "lock view to horizon" for many years. Not only for VR, but also for a triple projector setup.

There is no motion sickness with this option (which I assume can be seen as a sign that our brains perceive it as the more natural view).

We have to admit though that it work better with Road Racing as opposed to Oval Racing.

Your brain lock your view to horizon all the time. You can tilt your head in any position, your brain will lock it to horizon. That is the reality. On a movie or a video game, if the view is not lock to the horizon, you will have motion sickness, because your brain dosn't like this.

If your brain automatically does it then making the game do it for you doesn't really make sense?

If you get motion sickness then yes turn it on. But if you don't then it's way better without it.

Your eyes and brain only does this in a real world scenario because of the effect of gravity on the inner ear. If a video game camera starts tilting the world, but the inner ear does not feel a change, then you can cause motion sickness as what you see and feel doesn't match. Here is a paper with more info.

-biology/pdf/S0960-9822(05)00837-7.pdf

Hi JT, how are the images confusing? You can see the earth's horizon in the background in both images which shows the reference for the direction gravity would be working on the inner ear. In one image, the horizon is level and car is tilted, in the other image the car is level and the horizon is tilted.

Automobilista, rFactor, rFactor2.

These are not directly supported, but there is a plugin available on the internet, called RealHeadMotion by MagicFR, which does what you describe.

I find the default 'locked to vehicle' view very uncomfortable after a few laps, but if I use the plugin, which changes the view to 'locked to horizon', I am fine.

For people prone to motion sickness it might be some solution but for the rest it is just unrealistic! When you sit in any race car you are tightly strapped to the seat and your body movement is very limited so the view to car lock is not so far t\from the truth and in VR unlike on the monitor your head movement compensate for horizon changes. I think you are entirely wrong in your assumptions. I drive in my sim rig in Project Cars, Assetto Corsa, Dirt Rally, Live for Speed and others sims and always have view locked to car. I tried driving Dirt with default view (locked to horizon) and was very slow and my reaction time was so much worse until I switched to car locked. When driving race cars you simply can't lean left and right and up and down according to horizon! Also the G forces push you usually outside the horizontal line, out of the corner. For some it might be good but don't shove it down the throath of everyone becouse it isn't right!

Not sure I agree with the assessment in this article.. I think it is more of a subjective than an objective matter. I for example cannot stand the view locked to the horizon setting as it makes me VR sick almost instantly, the locked to the car works much better for me.

My findings also fall in line with the prevailing wisdom of cockpit VR games helping with motion sickness as the fixed cockpit around the player helps to "ground" them. When that cockpit starts shifting and moving around as if you're moving your head, when you're not, it makes for near instant motion sickness... At least for me.

I can't believe I've only just discovered this setting in Assetto Corsa. I've been playing around with different settings for almost three years, gradually improving the feel of the game. Locking the view to the horizon has made driving so much more intuitive and provides a completely new and thoroughly enjoyable sim experience. What is your opinion on the g-force settings in Assetto Corsa? I've currently got them all set to 3x.

Man i wish i had read this when i owned a VR headset. I bought one specificly for getting back into racing. Couldnt handle it, 20 min carburettor cup on iracing felt like id done the le mans 24hr. Elite dangerous however, mostly a joy - couple of moments in asteroid field maybe. I ended up going back to tripple screen and selling to fund a rig, so i would have loved to have tried these settings. This article needs more people to see because i bet alot are/were in the same boat as me

As time progresses, more and more players join the IL-2 community have difficulties setting up head-tracking. One of the more common issues I come across is the installation and configuration of a head-tracking clip/hat and head-tracking software.

To help these new players, I took it upon myself to write a clear and elaborate guide that will help anyone setup a new head-tracking system with the use of Opentrack. I will keep the topics separated by chapter to keep a clear distinction between the different elements.

The camera: Most cameras have a filter that will remove infra-red light out of the picture as this will cause unwanted brightening of the picture. However, for head-tracking, we want the opposite. By only using infra-red light, we can easily track a small infra-red LED light without the interference of other colours. The infra-red light is not visible to the human eye but is easily visible to a camera.

The most common camera used is a PS3-Eye camera. This camera needs to be modified so that it will only detect infra-red light (Unless you buy the PS3 Eye from TrackHat or DelanClip. They are premodified).

These multipliers can be tweaked to your liking. You might like a dead zone in the middle; a zone where your small movement will lead to no movement in-game at all (useful for looking down the sights).

The great advantage of these multipliers is that they can be tweaked to get different effects. For instance, if I want small movement when looking forward but large movement when looking back, then you can use curves. These curves are fully adjustable and should be set to your liking.

The main reason most people have given is the ability to scan the sky for opponents and tracking your opponents during a fight. I totally agree with this. The fluid movement of the head and the ability to focus on and follow your target give you a huge advantage over someone who does not have head-tracking.

Although there are expensive options like VR and TrackIR, there are also several cheap options. TrackHat and DelanClip, for instance, provide a complete setup for only 35-40 euro. A DIY system can be made for as little as 10 euro! If you are willing to make it yourself.

TrackHat, this is a good price/value option. The cheapest complete starters set is 37 pounds. In this starter set, you get a modified PS3 eye camera, cabled TrackHat clip, instruction manual and all software is provided. All elements can also be bought separately. The TrackHat Clip is durable and will last you a good while. This product is reported to be very easy to setup with good customer support.

Do It Yourself Tracker with PS3 cam and Opentrack: this is by far the cheapest setup. Investing some of your own time, you can get a fully operational setup for as little as 10 euro. (prices will vary from place to place). It will take some knowledge and research to build your own tracking clip and modify a PS3 camera. The advantages speak for themselves though. Cheapest of all options, highly stable, reliable Opentrack software, and 100% customisable. This setup is (if setup correctly) much more stable than TrackIR.

TrackIR 5: TrackIR was the pioneer in the head-tracking industry but has become terrible price/value deal. There are equally good or better options for a lower price. However, the curves are easy to setup and are very smooth during use. This product is by no means bad. It works well and is quite easy to set up. It is just incredibly expensive compared to the competition.

With headphones, a clip, mounted on the side, is easier. It is smaller and does not block your vision at all. I do not recommend using a tracking hat with headphones as it can create an uncomfortable feeling (your experience may differ). The cap can also (depending on your curves) block your view when looking down.

I found the batteries annoying as they would constantly die. I used a homemade system with 1 9V rechargeable battery. Even though I had 2 batteries that I could swap quite quickly, they did always die at the worst possible time. During dogfights or when starting a bombing run are the most annoying.

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