Godox Compatibility Chart

[Nikky Schreier]

Pleasesee compatibility chart & precautions for use of each radio systems with Sekonic meters below.Please note that this compatibility table is between Sekonic light meter and receivers of each radio system.Some functions available between each radio system may NOT work with Sekonic light meters due to technical limitations.

I am new to photography. I bought a Rebel T7 and began looking for compatible speed lights. To my surprise, Canon, in all their wisdom, created some sort of hot shoe that even some of their own stuff won't work with. Nothing on the aftermarket apparently will. So, what off-camera speed light style flash will work with the T7? I don't mind buying Canon, but I don't want to spend more on the flash than I did on the camera.

And, if anyone with the Canon Corporation is reading this... Make some compatibility charts so we know what stuff works with what stuff. And, of course, quit making weird proprietary parts where universal parts should be. The T7 is an entry level camera. I will buy more advanced down the road. And, once I get more experience and learn more about cameras, don't you think I'll learn which ones are more compatible and versatile than the others?

Is OP talking about the new hot shoe being used on the R7, R10 and R3. Some of Canon's low end DSLRs have removed the center contact. Very old Canon speedlites used A-TTL (EZ series) speedlites. All EX/ EL speedlites are compatible with all EOS digital cameras.

Does OP have a budget. The Canon 430EX III-RT is a good speedlite. If on a budget the 430EX II is a good speedlite too. Speedlites released prior to the 580EX II and 430EX II are not compatible with the external speedlite control menu that has been included with all Canon cameras released since 2007. Speedlite setting changes must be done on the speedlite itself ie flash exposure compensation or wireless master/ slave settings.

Yeah, then the ability to plug in two heads and get up to 1200ws (or whatever the damn units are). I really like that option, it makes sense to have a backup light anyway, so that extra power could come in real handy for sure.

It's slightly heavier than the rovelight, and supposedly packs a bit less power. Hmmm. I think the overall quality and reliability looks better though.

99 months ago(permalink)

Easy Mark:

Question for ya Mark or Andrew...

Do you need to leave the fancy transmitter in the hotshoe or can you use it solo and just put some other transmitter on the camera? You guys are both pretty sharp so I bet you know what I mean. Would I be able to control power settings when away from the camera and firing the shutter with a CamRanger/DSLRDashboard setup?

If so, I am liking the way this is sounding. Like Mark, I like the idea of consistency of equipment. Right now, I have all manual (and not remotely adjustable) flash units (a bunch of older yn560s and a nFlash) and just trigger them with the Phottix triggers. If I could eliminate the extra triggers/receivers and add remote power adjustment, I would be a happy guy.

Originally posted 99 months ago. (permalink)

Robert Boerner edited this topic 99 months ago.

Hi Robert:

Yes, what you are asking is doable. There are a couple of different ways because Godox is coming out with new and improved triggers.

But in short, you can put one trigger on the hotshoe of the camera to "trigger" the flashguns, while another you can keep in your hand to adjust power levels.

One thing to note about the Godox / flashpoint zoomlion speedlights (the Ving 850s and 860s) is that you can control the POWER with the remote, but not the zoom. (If one has the YN-560 IIIs and the 560-TX, they can adjust both the power AND the zoom remotely, but the Godox ones won't adjust zoom remotely). I don't really find that to be a problem though.

The other thing to note is that they are rolling out new flash guns and triggers right now, so suggesting which particular flash guns and triggers to buy is kind of like trying to hit a moving target.

For example, right now I am using their Legacy / Mark 1 products. The flash guns rely on a receiver that plugs into the side of the flash. The new system has receivers built into the flash (Adorama calls them the R2 versions, but I don't know if Godox labels them as mark II or anything like that).

The new system (with built in receivers) uses a 2.4GHz radio system. Since the original version flashguns have receivers that plug in, they can use the original 433MHz wireless system (like I am using) or the newer 2.4GHz receivers.

In short, Godox has tried to make the new wireless system backwards compatible with their original series flash guns. If you are logged into facebook, I think you might be able to see this chart:

www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10206895819018886&set...

What you will see is that lots of different triggers will work with lots of different flash guns and strobes.

For anyone who is thinking about getting into the system, it is best to try and figure out what you want:

1) TTL (More Expensive) or Manual (Cheaper)

2) Lithium Battery (more expensive) or AA Battery (Cheaper)

and for their strobes:

3) A one-piece monolight (around 6 pounds, but with the option to convert to pack and head), or a separate flash with battery pack (about 1.5lbs for the flash and another 1.5 for the battery).

Personally, if you are shooting more than one house in a day and doing lots of flash, or if you normally set up lots of flashguns during a shoot and need to charge lots of batteries at night, I think you would be NUTS not to use the Lithium Battery models, but that's just me. It is SO MUCH easier than charging up a bunch of AA's (and the flash guns come with a charger, so you don't have to spend money on chargers). Plus the recycle rate of the lithium batteries remains faster that the recycle times of NiMH batteries (where the recycle rate starts to drop fairly rapidly). And they charge up to full very rapidly (like two hours) without overcharging.

99 months ago(permalink)

For anyone interested in the new Godox system and backwards compatibility, you can learn more from the Flash Havoc site:

flashhavoc.com/godox-flash-system-overview/

Do know that there are sometimes firmware changes and new products that are released that might NOT be included in that article, so there might be new options not listed there yet.

NOTE: As you read through that article, the speedlights that are prefaced with TT (such as the TT600) use AA NiMH batteries, while the speedlights that are prefaced with a V (the V850, for example) use the single Lithium batteries.

Originally posted 99 months ago. (permalink)

Easy Mark edited this topic 99 months ago.

Sure. As you start to get closer to when you might be making a decision, just let me know with any questions you have.

It seems like Adorama (and probably CheetahStands) are the ones who are really pushing godox to make their system more robust, so I wouldn't be surprised if we see a NEW TTL wireless system from them in the next few months.

For me, my AD-360 and my couple of ving 850 speedlights are all I need for my real estate, portraits, headshots, and fashion work (I don't shoot in studio so I don't need a modeling light anymore, really).

99 months ago(permalink)

Great info as always Mark. Really like that there's a proper HSS option with some of the triggers (if I can figure out which) making them usable for my sports photography as well.

By the time I get $$ saved there is likely to be a whole new line of flashes though so maybe even better options to be had then. LOL.

99 months ago(permalink)

Christian J Anderson Photography:

I think it is a great light, but it might be overkill???

I could see people using it similar to how they use their N flash (i.e., in hand for nuking a really tall ceiling). I use my ad-360 (flasphoint streaklight 360) on a stand and it works well FOR ME at hitting high ceilings.

I could see the 600 would be great if you had a high DARK ceiling, or if you had a high ceiling in a VERY BRIGHT room where you had to stop way down to f/11 at iso 100.

But if you need the power and you are looking into a system that you can easily expand upon with speedlights, then yeah, the XPLOR 600 could be the way to go.

I would definitely recommend that you get them with the Bowens mount, since there are lots of bowens mount modifiers around at reasonable prices. (I think they are available in Bowens mount and Flashpoint mount... whatever that is...)

99 months ago(permalink)

Steve Dunsmoor:

Really like that there's a proper HSS option with some of the triggers (if I can figure out which) making them usable for my sports photography as well.

How does HSS work for your sports photography? It cuts the light output considerably. What I think most sports photographers need is a flash with a very short flash duration at high output, not HSS, and it is my understanding that very short flash duration with high output is not something one can find easily in cheap flashes.

99 months ago(permalink)

All this is making me seriously re-evaluate my need for the Profoto B1. I bought it used from B&H (looks and works like new) and it was still about 3x the price of the AD600. Anyone have experience with both and can compare/contrast the two? I know the AD600 is technically 100 more watt-seconds but have heard that measurement is not necessarily meaningful without context.

I went with Profoto primarily because of the consistency of color balance... I get so sick of dealing with casts in an otherwise neutral environment. But all the Profoto modifiers are super expensive so if I want to get into fashion or something for personal projects I'll spend even more. :-\

99 months ago(permalink)

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