Phawangpui (Blue Mountain) National Park, Mizoram.
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sanchita dey
Apr 27, 2024, 12:56:40 PMApr 27
to delhibirdpix
Phawngpui (Blue Mountains) National Park, Mizoram. April 2024
The melodies of the Grey Sibia still ring in my ears as I prepare to put into words the sights and sounds that I brought with me from Phawngpui (Blue Mountain) National Park. The aroma from the spring blossoms had to be left behind where they belonged.
For this trip the focus was mainly around Mt. Victoria Babax, a very elusive species found in this part of Mizoram bordering Myanmar. It was first seen and photographed in Phawngpui in 1997, then thought to be the Chinese Babax. It was lost for the next 25 years to be rediscovered in 2022. Would fortune favour us? For reaching these parts would always be difficult. So as soon as ‘Feathers of Ásia’ led by Arka Sarkar, announced a program, I was quick to seize upon it. A group of 5 was formed and suitably armed and attired we found ourselves in Lengpui Tourist Lodge on the 6th. of April 2024. It took us 3 days to reach Phawngpui NP, 291 km. from Lengpui, Mizoram’s air base, stopping in between in Hmuifang and Sangau tourist lodges for the two nights. All along the birding opportunities were the very best as it always is, in the North-east but we had to move on as reaching the National Park was high priority.
It was very early in the morning (Dawn breaks at 4 am in these parts) when we were assembled, in front of the forest entry gate in Thantlang. We were to relocate from our respective cars to the open carriage of a 4 wheel pick-up van, for the rough road ahead was steep and treacherous only as wide as our vehicle. One by one we were hauled up, luggage, equipment, fuel, provisions, cook, helper, until we were finally ready to set off. I don’t think any of the five of us were prepared for what followed. As the steep ascent began our vehicle, leaped and bounced, swung ominously, groaning all the while as it tried to pull itself upwards. Heads, limbs, lenses, sling bags, tree branches, were flung at random for the next 30 minutes. After couple of stops in between the van eventually came to a trembling halt. Phewww...thrilled we were that we had reached our destination and all in one piece. 😁🤣
The forest that we traversed was of ‘tropical evergreen’ and ‘subtropical montane’ type, rich in avifauna. We were still in the forest patch, some distance away from Far Pak, (meaning a lone fir tree), the forest lodge of Phawngpui. Time for some birding...A flock of Brown-crowned Scimitar Babblers threw quite a performance while the Brown-flanked Bush warbler sang its heart out from somewhere under the thick bushes. We were to find the Chin-hills Wren Babbler in this part of the forest later.
Further as we walked on, the narrow tunnel of greens suddenly gaped wide open and what met our eyes was dramatic. In front was a vast tableland of golden grass, which to the right, dropped in a great vertical cliff, known as Thlazuang Kham. Beyond were layers and layers of blue, cloud and mountains all merged in a canvas of rolling shades of cobalt and sapphire. Somewhere yonder was the highest peak of Mizoram, Phawngpui Tlang at 2157 M. The left was bounded by lines of evergreens which spilled over sporadically on the grassland. Conifers stood upright scattered here and there, tall and short, along with occasional bursts of crimson from rhododendrons. The wind came in waves, rhythmically, touching the tops of the grass. Riding on the wind came the sweet melody of Grey Sibia, welcoming us. We stood transfixed drinking in the panorama for it was nothing short of paradise. With slow delirious steps we finally manage to reach the rest house.
A quick tea break and we were ready to pursue our targets, specially those which are specific to this region bordering Myanmar....Mt. Victoria Bababx, Chin-hills Wren Babbler, Hume’s Treecreeper and the Stripe-breasted Woodpecker. A walk backward to the edge of the forest, took us to the Babax point. It was quite windy and the bird’s call was difficult to detect. In silence we stood, ears pricked, for the slightest signal. It was quite a while and still no sign when Kiddy, our local guide appeared from a path below gesturing and alerting us. No sooner, came the coveted moment. The bird appeared from somewhere downhill, perched itself clear on a branch and long enough for us to satiate ourselves. We exploded in jubilation 🤩✌️ and that called for a selfie... Babax moment immortalized.
Time to move on now. We found the Chin-hills Wren Babbler next, deep inside the dense undergrowth. A nondescript tiny bird at first glance but on close inspection showed its intricate patterns and how beautiful it was!! Flavescent Bulbuls, Crested Finchbills, Sunbirds-Fire tailed & Mrs. Gould’s, Leaf Warblers, Flycatchers, kept the show alive for it was spring in the mountains...the season of promises.
Here I must mention the entire 50 sq. Kms. of this park hosts some very diverse habitats. There were varied grasslands mixed with different species of bamboo, sometimes waist high (Eulalia trispicata) sometimes very tall and thick, merging into broadleaf forest patches with thick undercover and again giving away to open expanses of conifers and rhododendrons. The natural waterholes encompassed by thick tree and bamboo cover ensured perfect conditions for bird activity even during noon. In one such waterhole behind the lodge, we watched fascinated at the flurry that unfolded. Yellow and White-browed Fantails, Lesser Shortwings, White-tailed Robins, Fulvettas, Niltavas, Leaf Warblers, darted in and out in turns, dipping, drinking, preening, in their little secluded world. We were very lucky to spot a very wary Assam Laughingthrush here, which came time and again but only for a fraction of a second. But it was lunchtime and what a pre-lunch appetizer!!! It leaves you so content that the rest matters no more.
The bamboo grass around is home to Brown Warblers, very vocal and visible at dusk and dawn, provides for a easy target though its cousin, the Russet Bush warbler wasn’t as obliging. It was found with some difficulty, a little further away within the grass and dry scrub. Stripe-breasted Laughing thrushes were discreet as were the pair of Mountain Bamboo Partridges. Behind the lodge, on the conifers, the Hume’s Treecreeper made a sudden appearance, tapping on the bark and circling its way upwards, as is typical of treecreepers. All along the search was on for the Stripe-breasted Woodpecker for it fell within the top 10 ‘most difficult to see birds in India’. The Spot-breasted Parrotbill which inhabited the long bamboo patches, also refused to show up. Up above, Himalayan Griffons and Black Eagles floated majestically against the blue of the sky and far away, a lone Peregrine Falcon kept its watch from the edge of the cliff while in its shadows, basked the Himalayan Serow, the state animal of Mizoram.
Still no sign of the Woodpecker. Arka continued the search leading us further, near the Myanmar border but except the warblers and minivets nothing came up. Just before tracing our steps back to the lodge, came the call of the parrotbill. We had made it. Our tenure in the Blue Mountains was nearing its end and on a scale of 5 we were still stuck at 4.8. Luggage packed, we waited for our return when Arka triumphantly called out. He had heard the woodpecker. As we ran out we caught a glimpse of it in flight, followed it through, right to the edge of the cliff, where it settled on a trunk and what an insane moment it was. It was a high 5 surpassing all expectations. My firm belief, that the collective desire from all team members proved too much for the Woodpecker to evade. What a trip that was!!!
Some links used for reference.
Regards,
Sanchita
Partha Pratim pal
Apr 27, 2024, 9:20:44 PMApr 27
to sanchi...@gmail.com, delhibirdpix
Amazing report Sanchita . I felt like i was there in the trip. Thanks for sharing.
Best regards
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