Time For Everyone's Progress Report!!!
ManxManiac
progress of your projects, whether they're still in their infancy or
have racked up a bunch of miles! John Shepard, how's the baby & your
wonderful wife doing? Bart, where have you been hiding? Duneman, what's
the latest in the Sacto area? DuneBuggyJay, has the adrenaline-rush of
your new PurpleMetalFlakeClassicSignatureManx leveled out yet? VWJohn,
have you been sneaking on your daughter's computer lately & how's the
hand doing? I should have your copy of the sales brochure to you in
about a week! KyoteDan, how's everything in Canada? I'm down with my
back, so hopefully, next week will be a picture one! Manx63, what's the
latest in Oregon? All of the rest of you Crazys need to take a short
break & give us the latest "skinny"! As for me, the backs been
bothering me & all of the usual pains, but I'll live! Going for a
cruise in the Manx is actually quite medicinal, I always feel much
better after a drive! Still trying to finish my rear bumper/engine cage
& skidplate & I'm almost done with the "roof-top" carrier! I still
haven't taken the Manx to get the 34-pict3 carb set on a scope yet! I
must be real close, cause it sure runs great! Due to unforseeable
circumstances, we probably won't be going to Baja this year with the
ManxClub, but there's always next year or maybe we'll go on our own at
a later date! The wife & I are planning a 10 day trip for next spring
that will take us the full length of the "Gold Highway", Highway 49. It
starts at Coarsegold, Ca. north of Fresno, on the way to Yosemite &
ends north-east of Sacramento. I've been the whole highway several
times over the years, but not in a DuneBuggy! She has only been on a
small section of it. We've been looking at our maps & coming up with a
few other trips we're going to try & complete this next year also! I'm
on the trail of a Monocoque Manx, but I've come up empty handed so far!
Since an old friend sold it, it's been owned by several others & I
think I'm only a few steps behind. I'm possibly going to drive the Manx
in a Christmas parade...soooo...Let us know what's happenin' & Have
Fun...ManxManiac
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
jbou...@net1plus.com
still hasn't worn off yet. I only get to work on it on the weekends..so
these last couple of weeks have draged on..it seems like weekend will
never come! :)
I finished cutting the underside of my body last sunday. I put a fresh
coat of black paint on the underside also. I am about ready to install
the body for good on the pan. I have a pan seal siliconed onto the
fiberglass floor of my Berrien chassis..but I am not sure if it is going
to give me a water tite seal. The bottem of the body isn't very
flat...even though I filed it as flat as possible, it has some low spots
in it. I have heard that there is a chaulking availible that isn't
permenant. I was just going to use silicon chaulking..but then thought
to my self (self..how are you ever going to get the body off if you for
some reason need to?) So, any suggestions. I looked for the removable
type chaulking (someone said that it was made for temporarily sealing up
windows, and doors over the winter months..and then when spring
comes..you just unpeel the bead of caulk. Sound like just the stuff i
need, to use with the pan seal....if I can find somewhere that sells it.
I tried Home Depot..but no luck..I didnt see anything like it (I was
told it comes in a tube for a caulking gun)
Looking at how my body fits on the chassis, it looks like I may run into
problems with the front and rear body mounting hardware supplied with my
manx. When I had Berrein Buggy make my chassis, I had them raise up the
front and rear suspension when they welded it to the frame..so my buggy
would be 2 " lower while keeping the same geometery as stock. Well,
there is about 1/2 clearance between the under side of the body (rear
seat area) and the top of the tranny. I looked at an orginal manx, and
it had about 2 to 3 inchs between the too. Mine will be a bit higher
than 1/2 inch as this was before I installed the pan seal...but still
looks like I may run into problems....also the front suspension shock
towers hit the under side of the front of the body. Not too sure what I
am going to do....I kinda wish I didn't have Berrien lower my chassis at
all....and I am very glad they wouldn't go any lower...as I wanted it
like 4 inchs. :) as it will never see offroad...just street and strip.
I will try and borrow a digital camera, and get some pictures.
Still am trying to figure out rims sizes and back spacing.....who would
have thought it would be so confusing!
Well, thats all I have been up to lately...still waiting for my copper
head gaskets, and cylinder shims for my 2276, once I get them in, I can
finally cut push rods, and set up rocker geometery, YEAH! :)
Well, lets hear about all you other guys out there in dune buggy land.
and ManxManiac, I now what you mean about always feeling better after a
cruise in your buggy. I was always in the best mood after I used to
drive around in my old buggy.
Later
DunebuggyJay
Koyte 1
submitted to Deja. Well I can now say the Kyote is basically finished
and have accumulated 3400 of the best miles in the last 17 years of
driving. I am off to start into my next project. A few of you know that
I aquired a Manx clone back at the beginning of summer. Well work has
begun. I now know what you guys who are building the new Manx's are
going through with locating and collecting all the parts that you need.
For the Kyote I was lucky and only had to restore most of the car and
add a few minor things that it did not come with. With the Manx clone I
got just the body and it was a basketcase at that. Well after some
serious hunting I have come up with most of the parts I need to do what
I want. Due to the fact that it is not a true Manx I decided to do a
little creative bodywork of my own. It is on its way to looking similar
to the Hustler that graces page 95 of James Hale's Dunebuggy Handbook.
For those of you that do not have this book you can find the picture at
http://www.geocities.com/danielmacmillan/Hustler.html
The plan is to have it done by summer if possible, there is soooo much
to be done. I will post pictures of the progress as I take them.
One problem is when it is done how do I decide which one to drive. Does
anyone else out there have more than one buggy? How do you decide? They
are all so nice and a blast to drive.
The weather is turning quite cold but I refuse to park the buggy for
the winter. I am keeping it insured and it will be out during those
nicer winter days.
I am also in the process of transferring the portion of Head that
contains the Kyote into either a movie clip or lots of still images to
add to the Kyote website.
Oh well I really should be out there working and not in here typing.
I have heard so much about the New Manx bodies but have not been able
to see one. Please someone post a photo for me and all to see.
Take care everyone and keep those buggies going.
Dan
--
Dune buggy fanatics now have a new site to see.
Visit the only Jeffries Mantaray II Kyote site on the net.
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Desert/7445/
pati...@aol.com
>Also the front suspension shock towers hit the under side of the front
>of the body. Not too sure what I am going to do....I kinda wish I
>didn't have Berrien lower my chassis at all....and I am very glad they
>wouldn't go any lower...as I wanted it like 4 inchs. :) as it will
>never see offroad...just street and strip.
Cut your shock towers and just buy shorter shocks...I didn't have to
cut mine, but because the suspension is lowered drastically...I need 5"
shorter units...found them at Pep Boys....have then give you the
listings buy dimension, or measure and order from a KYB dealer.
167luc...@my-deja.com
As for Maniac's update on my buggy...I'm still scrounging around for the
parts. The kit is still under construction, according to Winnie, and should
be done after a yellow one is complete. I sent up a 1/2 pound of Diamond
Dust green glitter to have Frank put into the clear first coat and layer it
up with Shamrock Green gelcoat...he said it couldn't be done because the
clear coat would appear wavy on top of the green. I just wanted my car to
look different from the other Shamrock Green ones. So, they sent the glitter
back to me and I'll have to have it sprayed onto the body with an automotive
clear. Hope it doesn't chip, peel, or flake off in our hot Hawaiian sun!
Aloha everyone! jOHN.
towd...@my-deja.com
So far there is only one other Shamrock Green one, mine (#5). So not to
worry about all them others. We should be in a class of our own. I've
not started building mine yet, but maybe by next summer. I hope you get
your's soon.
Later,
Towd Dude
In article <8sovu9$lgk$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>,
Jack
Hello ManxManiac and dunebuggy people
I am super close to finishing the green buggy.I added front and rear
double tube chrome bumpers looks great,but I have a problem I hope you
all can help Last week I stated the engine when I had a pop poping
sound that came from the exhust I removed the electronic ignition and
replaced it with points. The poping went away but it runs like hell
the right side carb has no reponse when I adjust the air fuel mixture
inward whenI remove the #1 wire of the dist cap it runs smoother same
with #2 wire my timing light does not work with #1 plug wire Hereis
some information on my motor
1776cc
dual 44IDF weber carbs
009 dist
thanks Jack
In article <8snmt0$l1r$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>,
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.
>
--
smile:-)
monocoque
regarding offsets, I had a set of rims made for me at custom and
commercial in Fontana, California.
I am running 14x6 in the front and 15-7s in the rear. They are made
from the stock VW center and then are mated to a GM or other make wider
rim.
They do a great job, all you do is supply them with stock VW rims and
they do the rest.
THe frontw were 46.50 and the rears were 50.00 each.
The rims are powder coated white and pinstriping is available for a
small amount more ($5.00 each wheel or something)
I am running stock offsets on all of the rims and they are wrapped with
Cooper cobras. I so not remember the exact sizes, but they have a nice
look and they ROLL GREAT!!
With the wide rubber, it really handles like it is on rails even though
the buggy has no sway bars front or back. I did decamber the rear
suspension too much and need to raise it slightly to get about 1 degree
of rear camber.
So, that is what I have done. Since these are on a monocoque, there is
a little more space in the front to allow for cranking thesteering
wheel all the way over. That is not the case with a pan buggy. I would
change your offset slightly to the outside, maybe half an inch just to
get the clearance.
good luck.\Chris---
Member:Meyers Manx Dune buggy Club #66
Member: Central Ohio Vintage Volkswagen Club
Tri state buggies...give em a call
ManxManiac
Jack <st...@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello ManxManiac and dunebuggy people
> I am super close to finishing the green buggy.I added front and rear
> double tube chrome bumpers looks great,but I have a problem I hope you
> all can help Last week I stated the engine when I had a pop poping
> sound that came from the exhust I removed the electronic ignition and
> replaced it with points. The poping went away but it runs like hell
> the right side carb has no reponse when I adjust the air fuel mixture
> inward whenI remove the #1 wire of the dist cap it runs smoother same
> with #2 wire my timing light does not work with #1 plug wire Hereis
> some information on my motor
> 1776cc
> dual 44IDF weber carbs
> 009 dist
>
> thanks Jack
>
check it with 1-4-3-2. The distributor's rotor turns clock-wise! The
popping could be that the plug is firing with the exhaust valve open,
so double check the firing order! I doubt if the electronic ignition is
the problem, as long as it was installed correctly, but because the
electronic ignition is more efficient, it will also cause the mis-
firing problem to seem worse! Double check all connections, plug gap,
firing order, make sure all carb & intake & exhausat manifold bolts are
tight, make sure valves are adjusted! correctly!
Good Luck & Have Fun...ManxManiac
pati...@aol.com
marks , first mark on stock pulley is 4 btdc or add 3/4" [ ahead ] for
12bdc.
One other quick way to see if Valve adj. is way out.....pull the plugs,
crank engine with finger in plug hole [ each cyl.] and it better push
your finger out.
good luck....almost done..you lucky dog!! ggg
vwj...@my-deja.com
zero fun these days.As most know, I got the left paw in a machine at
work and tried to fubar it. At this same time my buddy exploded his bug
engine and wanted it rebuilt.I couldn't because of the injury so I
pulled mine out of my buggy and let him take it until a day when I can
build his.I couldn't drive anyway with the sore paw.Looks like spring
for me anyway.So to put it simple- I am getting a lot of down time in
the recliner.You folks write lots here so I will have something to do
while sitting here aggervateing the wife.LOL! She been a real trooper
while I have been down. Start trying to do stuff one handed and you
will find out how much we take for granted.Simple stuff- buttoning your
jeans,and god forbid that you try work pants with elastic in the
sides.Almost impossiable to button!! A shirt- major task!!! Be thankful
and be careful!!!
vwjohn In article <8snmt0
Jack
pati...@aol.com wrote:
> You don't need a light to set "initial" just line up the timing
> marks , first mark on stock pulley is 4 btdc or add 3/4" [ ahead ] for
> 12bdc.
>
> One other quick way to see if Valve adj. is way out.....pull the
plugs,
> crank engine with finger in plug hole [ each cyl.] and it better push
> your finger out.
>
> good luck....almost done..you lucky dog!! ggg
>
> Before you buy.
Hi patiomatt and all
> I think I found the problem the back side of the points were
arking off of the dist housing. I also found that I didn't put a ground
strap from moter to frame would that make a differance? well since I
have a ground strap on I will try the compufire ignition again wish me
luck :-) check out geocities.com/ghen_1
Jack
--
smile:-)
eliminat...@my-deja.com
They could if they really wanted to, or maybe they don’t know how. We
do fades on our boats by spraying clear gel coat first. Than we spray
one of the fade colors around the edges leaving most of the clear still
exposed. Next the other color of the fade is sprayed over the exposed
clear and on top of the first fade color. When the part comes out the
colors will fade from one color to the other without any wavy effect.
We have also mixed flitter in the clear to change the effect on the
surface. You should call them and explain that boat companies do this
all the time and you really would like to have it done. They can call
me at the shop, Eliminator Boats @ 909-681-1222, if they have questions
on how to do it.
You should also make sure they spray a layer of clear without the
glitter first, than the clear with the glitter. This will allow you to
sand and buff the surface of the body without worry of cutting into the
glitter. Sanding and buffing will remove the mold marks, transfer from
the chopper gun roving, pre-release marks and other flaws on the
surface. Takes about a day to do the job and the finish will look
killer.
As for my project, well lets just say it has taken much longer than I
had planned! I’m now down to wiring and interior. A few more weekends
and I will be ready drive. The next part of the project will be to
build a folding top that can be removed with any visible hardware on
the outside of the body and next year a new 1776cc motor.
I will be re-doing my web page in the coming weeks with new pictures of
the car and a few how to articles.
Mike