help!

[jkh...@my-deja.com]

hey guys

Let me pick your brains. I have a repeated problem on my 62. After
driving or towing the front hubs get hot and sieze. I assumed it was
bearings and replace the bearings in the front pass side. The shoes,
wheel cyls, and springs have been replaced and the pass. side drum was
turned when the new bearings were put in. Anyway, I was test-towing it
today and when I stopped after 2 miles to check it, the drums
were "pretty warm". When I stopped after 5 miles at higher speeds, the
pass side was smoking. I took a nap for 20 minutes and attempted to
turn around and head back home but both front wheels had siezed. I
jacked it up and pounded the drum off the pass. side (it was hard to
get off) and ended up feeling that the brakes had expanded. I removed
the shoes and springs, put the drum back on and went to the other
side. It now turned. I assumed it was coincidence but was frustrated
enough to not bother jacking it up and removing the guts of that side.
I then towed it home. When I got home, neither of the front drums were
above luke warm.

What's going on??????? Anybody run into this?

Josh

Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.

[lee...@my-deja.com]

Just a thought - If you touch the brake pedal with your hand and gently push
it, do you notice a slight "gap" before it engages? The brake pedal pushrod
should not touch the plunger portion of the master cylinder when the brake
pedal is released. There should be a small amount of play before engagement.
The pushrod is adjustable. Please let us know if yours is adjusted
properly. This is the last adjustment point, done after the wheel stars and
bleeding have been completed.

Lee

[ManxManiac]

In article <90eig7$mhh$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>,

Hey Josh, you should have about an inch of "freeplay" in the brake
pedal, otherwise it will put a slight amount of pressure on the brakes
& cause them to get hot. Also, you might have a couple of bad brake
hoses in the front, they let the fluid pressure go into the wheel
cylinder, but because the inside of the hose is bad, it won't let the
brake springs squeeze the shoes back into place & release the pressure.
I've had this happen to me on other VWs I owned & Towd-Dude recently
experienced this on his BajaBug. The only other thing I can think of is
the bearings are to tight, but I really don't think that is the case.
Good Luck & Have Fun...ManxManiac

[jkh...@my-deja.com]

Thanks for the replies. I just ran out and checked. I have no play in
the brake pedal at all. That push rod is adjustable? I'll look
through my Haynes manual tonight and see if I can find that in there.
I definetely did not make any adjustments up near the pedal. I'll try
that route first and then see about the lines.

Thanks!

Josh

[lee...@my-deja.com]

Josh,

The push rod has threads on it for adjusting its length. There is also
a jam nut for holding it tight when the adjustment is complete. It's
pretty easy to adjust once you cram your body down in there close enough
to see the durn thing!

Lee

[jkh...@my-deja.com]

Lee
Funny, I was just about to post a note wondering if I had to remove the
body again to access the adjustment...I turned my heater on in the
garage earlier today in the hopes that I'd have a chance to get a look
tonight! I did notice that my lines appear ok. I thought I'd replace
the master cyl but guess I was wrong. Hopefully this adjustment will
take care of it. Thanks!

JoshIn article <90j5k7$9sp$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>,