After a half an hour of pulling doesn't started. Tried with two different glowplugs: hot and cold and nothing happened.... here are some pics of the carburator's settings and the glowplugs. The second and third pic shown is the hot one and 4th pic is the cold one.
The fuel I use is hpi 20% and I normally use the cold glowplug with it, the hot one is for spare. And the 5th pic is what I got from the cylinder directly, which proofs there is fuel getting in the engine. PLS HELP
Remove fuel pipe from carb inlet. With fuel in tank, use pull start and finger over exhaust end to make seal and check fuel is being pumped ot of end of fuel pipe. If not check fuel tank lid seal and pipe connections from exhaust to tank.
Has it ever started? Is it new? If pinch is really tight if new then loosen glow plug a bit but tighten once started and/or preheat engine. Dont overpull pull start as it may give up, usually string being pulled out.
Never let a cooling engine sit with the piston up. Try to keep the piston at bdc. Bottom of its stroke so when it cools and contracts the piston sleeve doesnt have the piston in the way letting it contract to full compression again.
Take the cooling head off to see the piston. Roll the flywheel until the piston is at its lowest point. Then put a dab of nail polish on the flywheel. So then you just need to turn the flywheel until the nail polish is wherever you put it and that should mean the piston is at bdc.
If this was my engine ide strip it down and clean it out throughout using nitro fuel to clean it. Old nitro fuel is good for this. Dw40 or gt85 too. Inc taking out the needles of the carb to flush out.
One engine i had wouldnt start so i stripped it partially just head and back plate off to clean it as best as possible. Then i unscrewed the carb needles and on the HSN i found a tiny flake of metal. Like 1 single glitter dot sized. After that it started straight away and ran perfectly.
The buggy is second hand it's not new. Engine used to start very easy like from the 3rd-5th pull without heating(the Carb settings were done in hobby shop). But once when I took it the buggy out for a ride it was struggling to start and I tryed to set up the carb again until it started but with half an hour of pulling. As I remember there was a lot of smoke and fuel going out from the exhaust. From that point until today the engine was starting hard. And yesterday the spring or whatever its called in the pullstarter gave up, so that stopped me. The engine was tight and heated it up but that didn't helped.
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I was adjusting the HSN and the idle. I manged to make the idle as it is supposed to be 1-2 mm opened. But I can't work out the thing about the HSN.
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I tried with factory settings but I figured out that they are for breaking in the engine. And the thing which I most what is to make the carb settings good so the engine can start easily. I have ordered a rotostart system and I hope the engine would be easy to start with it.
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this is confusing me lol, last time i had the nitro car out was a few weeks ago and it started to start in reverse, i noticed there was crap in the carb so i sorted that out *i think* and got new fuel line and fuel filter, its still doing it after doing that, think i need a new glow plug cause the car does not go when putting throttle, so why does this strange thing happen
the glowplug effectively controls the ignition timing. The glowplug shouldn't ignite the mix until after the piston passes top dead centre, pushing the piston down. If the ignition happens too early, it will force the piston back the other way, setting up a reverse cycle. If a plug is damaged or worn away, it may be glowing too hot igniting the fuel before it should.
Bin the glowplug and fit a new one, and there is a good chance your problem will go away. Also check you don;t have carbon deposits built up on the piston, as this can cause a hot spot and trigger pre-ignition, as can excessive compression or too high a level of nitro in the fuel for your motor.
hi guys, forgot to say am still learning about nitro car and i dont understand all the techy talk lol but i hope the bearing not shafted lol i do need to buy a new glow plug but not sure which type to get as there figgen loads, the engine i have is a force 28 engine, what type of glow plug will be ok to use as ive had people saying the numbers mean the sizes and other people saying its something to do with the heat, comment below would be very helpful, i dont have a backward gear on my car, in fact the car will not go backwards at all lol the the engine running reverse lol
the fuel burns before the piston gets to to dead center. ( as the pistion moves up it reaches a point, where it flips from traveling upwards to being forced downwards, this area is called top dead center, and is where the fuel ignites and forces the piston back downwards)
Many people use a Chicken Stick to start their engines for safety purposes. A Chicken Stick is a small, hand-held, rubber coated stick that is used to flip the propeller and keep the fingers out of the propeller arc.
My first recommendation for starting an engine is to attempt hand starting before automatically reaching for an electric starter. It is faster and easier and not as hard on your engine. Follow these steps closely and you will be amazed at the success you have starting your engines.
If you have never run this engine before or for any reason think the high-speedneedle valve is not close to the right setting then close the needle all the way. Do not crank it closed or you might damage the spray bar. Just close it until it stops. Now open it about 2-1/2 to 3 full turns. That should give the engine a sloppy rich setting. You can lean (close) the needle a bit if it is too rich after the engine is running.
My Webra Speed .32 engine runs great and starts easily. However, it has a vicious kick no matter how quickly I flip the prop and move my hand out of the propeller arc. For that reason I decided to use my starter on this engine instead of trying to hand start it.I was telling someone about this at the field one day and over walked Mike Phillips who said "Nonsense. This is a great running engine and can be hand started every time in one or two flips." As he started to turn over the engine I said, 'I'll get out the first aid kit, Mike.' He smiled, gave the engine a flip and it started right up without removing any of his fingers, dammit.He did something that I had never even thought of before and I guess a lot of people know about it other than myself. I normally flip an engine through compression in the direction it is supposed to run. If the engine starts backwards consistently then I flip it backward through compression.Mike did not do either of these things. He flipped the engine backward so it would "bounce" off compression rather than flipping it through compression. I have been doing this with the Webra ever since and have not been bitten once. Mike is right. It starts in just a couple flips every time. Using an Electric StarterI think flyers abuse their engines with electric starters. I have one and I use it with my helicopter because there is no other way to start the engine. My helicopter requires a starting shaft which replaces the aluminum cone on the front of the starter.
Whatever you do, do not keep cranking your engine with an electric starter if it will not start. You are just wearing it out (the engine and the starter). If the engine will not start then disconnect the fuel line and flip it until all the fuel is out of the engine.
That technique doesn't totally un-flood the engine but it gets most of the fuel out. Put the glow plug back in and then connect the glow igniter. Be sure the throttle is at idle and flip the engine over until it kicks over. Reconnect the fuel line and the engine should start right up.
Electric starters are a good thing, but they are really not necessary to start most engines. I do recommend them while cautioning you that they can cause unnecessary wear on your engine. The Sullivan starter sets the standard and is very good.
Sullivan makes several models. This is the standard starter that most modelers use. Starters are made by other companies as well. I am sure they all work fine, but I have not used anything but the Sullivan so you may want to ask around your field for other recommendations.
Welcome to our guide detailing how to start your new HSP nitro powered model.
Please carefully read the steps listed here as well as the product manual to fully understand the model components, controls and adjustable settings.
Put 4 AA batteries in the controller and 4 AA batteries in the car (remove three screws from the battery tray). Note, you must use good quality batteries else the car servos will not perform properly.
Prime fuel into the engine by placing your finger over the exhaust outlet and pulling the pull-start. When pulling the pull-start you should see fuel moving through the fuel line and entering the carburettor. This process should take 4-5 pulls to complete.
Attach the glow plug ignitor on to glow plug on the engine and pull the pull-start using short, sharp pulls. Be very careful to not over-extend the pull-start. It should be extended a maximum of 20cm, otherwise you may snap the cord.
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