Re: Ogre Kingdoms Army Book Pdf Download
Mirthe Luria
When I see people writing up army lists I believe will not work, the problemis generally that they have too few units. They make the ones they have too bigand too expensive and neglect the cheaper support units (such as Gnobbos, forexample). Very seldom do you see people taking too many units, though that isof course possible - at one local tournie an otherwise competent player showedup with an Ogre army conisting mainly of units of 3 Ogres and they keptbouncing off much tougher enemy units without ever achieving anything much.
Really, 1000 pts is a bit low to be called an army and you may find thatbattles will often be decided on a few crucial dice rolls (as there will befewer dice rolls per battle, each one will be more important).
This list is based on the battalion box, with the Bruiser being convertedfrom a spare ogre (you should have a spare great weapon since the Irongutstandard bearer is unlikely to carry one, having only one spare hand) andTrappers being converted from spare plastic gnoblars.
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The General is set up with items that support the army, if you wanted to, youcould swap the Thiefstones for a Wyrdstone Necklace and a Luck Gnoblar or theSiegebreaker (or swap all his items for the Siegebreaker, Wyrdstone Necklaceand a Luck Gnoblar).
The setup is intended for the General to join whichever ogre unit that coulduse his help, or move around on his own if there is not much in the way ofenemy missile fire going around. If you suspect that you will face cannons orsimilar war machines that may target your General, you will want to add aLook-out Gnoblar to one of the units and have the Bruiser in that unit most ofthe time.
If you really want a Butcher (not really recommended at 1k), then you'llprobably want to swap one unit of Leadbelcher and the Trappers to get him.Suggested setup in that case is the Skullmantle or Bangstick, plus a DispelScroll and maybe a Tooth Gnoblar or two if you can find the points.
A handful of extra points can always be found by dropping gnoblar champions and/ or a few gnobbos off the Fighter unit.
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This list leaves 18 pts unspent, illustrating the problem with lists withoutgnobbos.
As with list #1, you have a bit of choice when it comes to equipment on yourGeneral. On the downside you don't have a lot of options on your units, themain question being what equipment you want on your Bulls - it would bepossible to drop some stuff here and there to get another ogre in, if youwanted to.
Another option is to swap a Bulls unit for a Leadbelcher unit, or vice-versa.It would even be possible to drop an Irongut and some options from variousunits and get a Gorger, if you are bothered by enemy missile fire.
At 1500 pts, you are starting to approach a decent-sized army and I oftenplay with armies between 1500 and 200 pts, when I want a reasonably quick game.1950 pts, for example, is probably the size I play the most. You tend to have adecent number of models (typically more than in a 2000 pt army) and armiesdepend more on their Core than on Lords (you can't have any) and Rare choices.Obviously, this will benefit armies with decent Core and Hero choices more thanthose that don't, but most armies (barring both kinds of Undead) work okay).
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Obviously, you now have a lot more choice in what you want to do with the listand naturally all the choices you had at 1000 pts can be made here as well. Ichose to add a Scraplauncher and a Butcher, because they are both quiteflexible units, though you could easily swap either for a unit of Yhetees or aSlave Giant if you want other types of units. Personally I have not had muchluck with either, though.
Alternatively, you could swap either for a small support unit of Bulls andanother unit of Gnobbos (gnobbos are great!), to bulk out your army.
The items on the Butcher can of course be swapped around, a popular choicewould be trading the Bangstick for the Skullmantle.
The article is meant as a beginner's guide to using the Ogre Kingdoms army.I will list a few things you need to know and hopefully you will be on your wayto mastering this rather unique army. More in-dept info on the various unittypes, equipment and magic of the Ogre Kingdoms can be found in the variousother articles on my Ogre Kingdoms Tactics page.
The thing that makes the ogres a good army is their good basic statline,especially their high movement and attacks. Fielding an army where the Coretroops are the sort of units other armies get as Special or Rare choices isundoubtedly one of the things that draw many players to the Ogre Kingdoms. Itis over all not a bad army, especially when you get a bit of experience withit, and it certainly gets a bit better in 7th edition (or, more correctly, alot of other armies get worse while we are not much affected).
Everything bigger than a gnobbo in the ogre army has at least Movement 6 anda few things have more. This is faster than pretty much all other infantry andthe reason why ogres (at least my ogres) tend to win againstinfantry-based armies. You will tend to get the charge and ogres who get thecharge are usually doing very well. If you should find that you are frequentlythe one being charged, you may need to improve your tactics.
As with the movement advantage listed above, everything bigger than agnoblar in an ogre army causes at least Fear. If you ask me, the best thingabout causing Fear is not having to take Fear test to charge whimpy units suchas skeletons, spawn and lesser daemons. These units have the common trait thatthere is little to fear about them other than their Fear special rule. Not sowith ogres.
Somewhere at the bottom of the article, I describe the joys of ogreshort-range missile fire - a whole lot of dice, but not a lot is likely tohappen. Ogres in close combat are a different matter - you get to chuck a heapof dice and lots of enemies die. If that does not bring joy to your heart, thenI don't know why you play this army. Ogres should always be the ones chargingand when charging the goal should be to kill everything in base contact, atleast.
To generate the greatest amount of carnage, you should get as many ogres inbase contact as possible - in my experience this will often be four and Itherefore base my army around combat units of four ogres - no additional fatunless I expect to get shot at. A good rule of thumb is that against the thingsthey are good at, a Bull with an additional hand weapon will kill about 1 enemymodel, an Irongut 1.25 enemy models and a Maneater about 2 models. Combatcharacters tend to kill about half a model per Attack they have, not countingspecial bonuses.
The downside is that you are relying on these attacks to win combat for youand if they dice or not kind, you are in trouble. Another downside is that inorder to get the necessary number of attacks to actually win the combat, yourunits will be quite wide and thus more difficult to manoeuvre (more on thisbelow). On the plus side, more elite ogres needing less space to generate thesame number of kills.
Ogres can be in a bit of trouble if flanked. You don't have much of a rankbonus to lose, but if you field your unit in only one rank, only one ogre willbe able to fight back. For this reason, if you are worried about opponentsflanking you, place a single ogre in the second rank, to double your attackssideways without reducing your attack forward by too much.
Amusingly enough, the Ogre Kingdoms list entirely lacks attack with aStrength of 3, it is either S2 or S4+ and those with S2 aren't really used tokill people with, so it doesn't matter. As Strength is one of the bestcharacteristics to be good in, this is great for the army. It is even betterthat this high Strength comes together with 3 or more Attacks. As mentionedbelow, ogre WS leaves a bit to be desired, but over all they are well suitedfor killing things. Now, for killing soft and squishy things, you want Bulls.They are reasonably cheap, cost-effective and allow you to take more units ofgnobbos, which is a great advantage. For tougher opponents, Ironguts are thebusiness. They cost a bit more, but their three Strength 6 attacks will woundmost things on 2+ and give a healthy -3 armour save modifier. They have fewerattacks than a typical Bull, though, and so they are overkill against whimps.
It is, on the whole, quite easy to get high Strength in an Ogre army, bytaking models with Strength 4 or 5 (or more) and giving them great weapons.This comes with the disadvantage of striking last in later rounds of combat,but with a high number of high-strength attacks, there is often no second roundof combat, so it is not much of a disadvantage. It can be good, though, to addin a model that does not strike last in a unit to hopefully go before the enemyand reduce their attacks by flattening some of them. An example can be acharacter with a Sword of Might in a unit of Ironguts or great weapon-armedManeaters, or similar.
Also worth noting is the fact that few things you will come across has morethan Toughness 4 and so what you are mainly getting by improving your Strengthbeyond 6 is an additional -1 to enemy armour saves. Because of this, there is adiminishing return on super-high Strength (in addition to it being verycostly), and there is little point in going above Strength 7. Just because itis possible to reach Strength 10 with ogres (Tyrant + Siegebreaker +Giantbreaker + Bullgorger), doesn't mean that you should try to.
What multiple wounds do is to preserve your attacks and unit strength whenyou take damage. Four Ironguts, for example, will still have 12 attacks if theunit takes 2 Wounds. A unit of six guys with one wound and two attacks each, onthe other hand, will be reduced to 8 attacks if two wounds are inflicted uponthem and have their unit strength reduced to a paltry 4. With most grunts outthere not being able to inflict more than a wound or two in close combat, evenwhen they strike first, ogres can be fairly confident to be able to strike backat full strength.
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