In 1949, Aenne Burda expanded her family business into women's magazines publishing, founding a fashion magazine printing and publishing company in her home town of Offenburg, Germany. The same year she debuted the magazine Favorit, which was later renamed to Burda Moden. The first issue of Burda Moden magazine was published in 1950 with a circulation of 100,000. It gained popularity after 1952, when it began to include patterns for clothes.
Each magazine comes with 2 large sheets (or 1 depending on the number of patterns), printed on both sides, with the pattern lines in different colours superimposed one on top of each other. Each sheet is labelled with letters. You then have to copy the pieces belonging to the pattern you want to sew.
Find the design number in the instructions pages and there will be a box with the type of line corresponding to the each size, the sheet where to find the pattern and the colour, as well as the number of pattern pieces.
You will need transparent tracing paper, like drafting paper, Burda tracing tissue or any other type of paper you can see the lines through. I once used Marks & Spencer flower tissue from an Autograph bouquet, it worked like a dream. Swedish tracing paper or the perforated non-woven fabric that is used in upholstery for chair bottoms.
Thanks for your thoughts Catherine! I have almost finished adding the changes from the toile back to the patter, and now heading to cutting the real fabric. Hoping to make good progress today, the wedding is next Sunday *worried face*!!
I find that because Burda is able to keep cost down with these must-trace patterns (& instead invest in aspirational pattern photos) I buy a lot more of them than the Big 4 patterns. I treat the magazines like any other fashion magazines.
I have a slightly different approach. I mark the pattern I want to trace either with a sharpy or pencil. I then tape the entire sheet to a window. Tape pattern paper over the pattern. Using the daylight from behind, tracing is simple. I add seam allowances once all the patterns pieces are on the table.
Another trick I just picked up. As I trace all my patterns. Is use the very flimsy plastic foil they use to pack flowers in. It is really cheap, and in the Netherlands it lays with gift wrap paper. I cut pieces of plastic, place them on the pattern and trace the pattern with a ballpoint pen as they do not smear. I trace without seam allowance. I cut around the pattern, not really neat, but within the normal seam allowance. Then I tape the plastic to sturdy IKEA coloring paper (also cheap, comes on a roll). Then I add the seam allowance. Because the plastic is taped to the paper, all markings are there, and because the seam allowance is added afterwards, it is easy to just tape the edges.
Biggest advantage, the plastic is very static, so it does not slip and slide while tracing. Second advantage, my pattern is now on sturdy paper, so accidental tears are not likely, and pattern adjustments are much more easy.
I love Burda too. You get so many patterns for a fraction of the price. On top of that I bought 5 kg of sheets of paper (50x70cm) that is ordinarily used for wrapping products in shops, but also happens to be relatively transparent. Thanks to saving money on patterns and tracing paper I can buy more fabric ?
Love these! Although I think the shorter version is probably more versatile, the longer gown is gorgeous and elegant. The style is vaguely reminiscent of the gold dress from the December 2012 Burda, but I really like the use of a flat gather here 0 it gives a very nice waistline.
The white pleated waist dress! I love this! The style is so elegant and pretty. I really need to make one. I think the style could be flattering to so many body types, and it is interesting without being overwhelming. It looks interesting to construct too. Very excited to have this join my pattern collection.
Burda Plus ruffle dress! The proportions are not the most flattering, and in the black the only thing I can think of is lampshade on its way to a funeral. Definitely not one of the better designs in this issue.
To get the International Burda I subscribe through GLP news:
I have the year subscription, but other bloggers have noted that if you contact them directly you can order single issues of Burda magazine.
This design was from the Fall/Winter Burda Easy Magazine, so not part of the regular Burda subscription. However, the lovely cut-out details and flattering design made a big splash with me and the rest of the internet. Though my Best/Worst Awards are only chosen for designs from the regular issues, I thought it would be a shame not to mention this fantastic dress design in the year-end wrap-up.
Ok, so while this might not be my personal favorite design from my list of top picks, I feel as thought this design feels very 2014. Like, when people look back at all of the crazy things that we are wearing that define this era, this jacket with the color blocking, floral patterns, and zipper trim will be quintessential 2014.
Love this recap of the recaps post! Makes me want to go digging through all last years magazines again and see if what I ended up making correlates to this at all. (I do know I didn't make any of the BWTFs!).
I hope I have not made a mistake. I already cut out the pattern before reading your article, but I did chose a size larger than I am due to the tight fit of the dress. Will this work for the seam allowance?
love how you color coded your magazine! I usually just grab a pen and underline or circle stuff and take notes in the blank spaces. Thanks for the other helpful tips! I think the interfacing numbers are the great Burda mystery. I have never understood those either.
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My mom used to sew clothes for me but I never learned to sew. Now I wish I had! I'm amazed when anyone can take fabric and turn it into anything ... clothes, quilts, bags ... it is a wonderful skill to have. Hope your day is great. Best wishes, Tammy
Wonderful find! Reminds me of the stashes of magazines my aunt used to have lying around (and heaps of fabric, too, for that matter ;-) She never used the patterns though, she just used the mags for inspiration and then started cutting patterns by hand. She even made the most gorgeous clothes out of Spanish table cloths, can you imagine! But you're so talented too Maya, I'm sure that you'll be able to work something out with the patterns!
Agghh...deja vu all over again! :-)
But seriously, I had to smile at your comment about the 'one pattern one size' thing...thing is, I think we all alter a pattern a bit b/c NO one is a perfect '10' (or whatever.) And it was easier with those old patterns b/c they were a heavier paper than todays...more like a good quality tissue paper than kleenex (sorry, personal soapbox.)
About the time they started coming out with multiple sizing, they were also using the thinner paper and also jacking up the price for patterns. I'd literally trace the whole pattern (if it was a style I thought I was going to like and make multiple pieces of) onto a sturdier substrate like lightweight interfacing or whatever so I'd get more than one use out of it. And that way, too, I could use it to make something for someone else from the same pattern.
I think that was about the time I quit doing a lot of sewing for myself: my kids were little and I just didn't have the time to retrace every pattern for me like I did for them (much smaller patterns and they weren't picky about having 4 of the same style pants or top or whatever!)
So it's been a mixed bag, I guess.
BTW, I still make my (87 yoa) Dad nightshirts from a McCall's pattern, copyright 1952. It's been used dozens of times over the years and is still going strong.
Thanks for the memories :-)...Treena
It does sound like there will be a bit of work to your Burda find. Burda originally had a bad reputation here in NA because of things like that. Still, the pics you've posted make the extra work worth it. Congratulations on your find.
While miles and oceans may separate the USA and Russia, when it comes to magazine publishing and the media industry in general, the defining line is vague. Their troubles and triumphs are very similar to our own. On a recent trip I made to Moscow to give a keynote speech at the annual conference of the Press Distributors Association (PDA), that congruent fact was driven home to me clearly. From distribution, advertising challenges to the future of print; the USA and Russia amazingly are facing the same problems. See my first entry From Russia with Love.
In my interview with Jrgen Ulrich, we talked about the love between an audience and a brand, the enormity of the Burda brand itself in Russia, the very young distribution system in the country and the power of print. It was very familiar territory for me.
Jrgen Ulrich: It was the first international brand. We started with new brands in 1995. You can see a lot of brands that really came into the market on concepts that were adapted from locals to the Russian market starting in 1995.
Samir Husni: As a CEO of a major publishing company; are you worried about the demise of print and the rise of digital instead?
Jrgen Ulrich: Probably the political situation, where we are fighting on the one side with a struggling economy and on the other side, having to change the business model more toward the future, so adding additional revenue streams to our business and in this case, it might mean digital or whatever it covers, an eco-mass. Is it an event business as well?
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