Schematic Diagram For 3 Way Switch

[Joseph]

Becarefull though. You should never ever put the components themself off grid because this makes it almost impossible to connect wires to pins. There is no snap yet and Eeschema depends on (nearly?) perfect alignment between the attachment points of pins and the endpoints of (usually green) wires.

Another (probably more productive) way is to do your editing in waves.

When you are designing your schematic diagram, do not pay attention to the locations of texts, and then once an hour or once a day, set your grid to small and do a cleanup sweep through your schematic to put all texts in readable positions, also cleanup locations of some of the schematic symbols and wiring.

The trick is to not give in to instant distraction by a single misplaced piece of text, and keep focussing on the working of your schematic.

I draw schematic generally very compact. Except one situation 20 years ago all schematics are at single sheet.

We decided few days ago that the next version of some PCB will be done using KiCad (first serious KiCad use). This schematic close to fully fills A4 so no place to loose. In original I had Univers Condensed used.

So I annotate and place the texts to see where I can have next wire

I am drawing it the second day. Even I supposed that I have all symbols I will need, from time to time I have to add a new symbol and its footprint (veryfying if I really wont to use that element). I just was looking at distributors to decide if 2u2/100V X7R to use 1210 (like previously) or may be 1206 (I decided to left 1210).

I hoped I would finish it today, but I see I will not. I will be out of work for few days - so end of next week.

So I suppose an year or two ago my brother comed to me (we work together) and said: Do you wont that features to be switched off? I said: yes and he swithced me it off. But at home I never thought about it and because of this it sometimes happens to have Qwertz. I just never spend any time to investigate what i can set in the system - have better things to do

As the subcircuits are all identical, this would be a good case for a hierarchical design. You can design your switch interface on one sheet and instantiate multiple copies of it in your master sheet. It will make this easier to maintain.

If you create a new symbol for your switch with two parts (like the individual gates in a 74 series logic part), you can create a clearer schematic with no crossings. This also shows the center off position of the switches that gives the 5n capacitance.

I first started using Kicad for its schematic drawing capability. Then I got a quote for duplicating an old PCB whose Gerbers were not welcome anywhere anymore. I just heard that v6.0 was out. So I down loaded it and entered my schematic.

One advantage I had was that I had a wired version of the old board and the old schematic. That helped me straighten out the rat nest and place the parts because I made the layout look like the original.

My guess is that it is a 2-pole switch because the caps can directly be soldered onto it. If there is a PCB for the caps then it would possibly be single pole (or both poles in parallel to last longer). Duplicate symbol SW_DPDT_x2 and modify unit A (and B):

With 2P, the two capacitors are basically connected with 2 contacts in series, which increases the open resistance but also the closed resistance and possible eventual noise if the contacts get dirty, compared to 1P. Two contacts in parallel could improve it. Depends on the switch quality and other factors.

DISCLAIMER: You may notice there are a lot of over-used keywords or phrases as well as English that seems a little off. This is because these articles are used to feed our AI Robot (Ira) and she needs the data to be structured in a certain way.

Please use the article below to understand more about wiring your Red Series 2-1 switch. Each picture has a before (what your wiring should look like prior to installing your smart switch) and an after (how your wiring should look with your smart switch installed).

Find the before picture that matches your wiring and if you don't see your before wiring, then please consult an electrician or post in our community in our dedicated wiring section as we are not able to give out specific wiring advice due to liabilities.

Below you'll find the schematics for the Red Series 2-1 Switch. Please first start by finding your Switch Type (Single Pole or Multi-Way - Dumb, Aux or Smart Switch). Once you find the Switch Type section, click on the corresponding drop-down for your switches mode (Neutral or Non-Neutral).

Find the before picture (shown on the left) that best aligns with your wiring and then wire your switch per the schematic. If you do not see your before wiring or are unsure, please consult an electrician or post in the Wiring Discussion section in our community for help as we cannot give out electrical advice outside the schematics shown.

You must install the smart switch where there is a line (120V) present and you cannot install it where there are only travelers (this is reflected in the schematics below). In addition, please do not use an illuminated dumb switch. Finally, you must program your switch to work with a dumb switch after you restore power by holding down the bottom of the paddle while tapping down on the config button 5x, then releasing (switch will blink violet to confirm) as shown in the GIF below.

REMEMBER: You have to program your Inovelli Red Series 2-1 Switch to work manually with your existing dumb switch. We recommend programming your switch via your app (SmartThings, Hubitat, Home Assistant, etc), but if you want to do it manually, please hold down the bottom of the paddle while tapping down on the config button 5x, then releasing (switch will blink violet to confirm) as shown in the, "Manual Programming Example GIF" drop-down.

You must install the smart switch where there is a line (120V) present and you cannot install it where there are only travelers (this is reflected in the schematics below). The only approved aux switches are ones made by Inovelli, GE / Honeywell (now Jasco), or HomeSeer. Additionally, you must program your switch to work with an add-on switch after you restore power by holding down the top of the paddle while tapping down on the config button 5x, then releasing (switch will blink pink to confirm) as shown in the GIF below.

REMEMBER: You have to program your Inovelli Red Series 2-1 Switch to work manually with your aux (add-on) switch. We recommend programming your switch via your app (SmartThings, Hubitat, Home Assistant, etc), but if you want to do it manually, please hold down the top of the paddle while tapping down on the config button 5x, then releasing (switch will blink pink to confirm) as shown in the, "Manual Programming Example GIF" drop-down.

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