HP M4345 4345 Display Hangs in boot sequence memory count or HP logo 6/6

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Robert Bohacek

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Jan 13, 2015, 3:40:11 PM1/13/15
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A hung display is one that is stuck with the screen

displaying “initializing,” “warming up,” “calibrating,” or sometimes

nothing but a row of asterisks or blocks. Essentially,

the printer has failed to initialize. Th is article will off er an

effi cient way of tackling a particularly challenging case: the

LJ 4345 MFP. First, we will describe the procedure for most

other HP Laserjets.

General Hung Display Troubleshooting

For most Laserjets, failure to initialize can be traced

to a bad formatter or something plugged into this board

(fi rmware, memory, network card, hard disk drive, etc.). Th e

normal troubleshooting sequence is to remove everything

from the formatter that isn’t absolutely necessary for basic

operation, leaving you with a formatter

board with nothing plugged in it

except perhaps the fi rmware DIMM.

If it now comes to “Ready,” one of the

removed items is bad, and you can fi nd

out which one by re-installing them

one at a time. If the formatter/fi rmware

combination still “hangs,” then one of those two items

is defective, and the only solution is to replace them one at

a time, since the printer cannot function at all with either of

them missing.

In a few specifi c cases, hung displays can be caused by

other parts. Fuser warm-up issues can cause it in the Laser-

Jet 9000 series, as we pointed out in the Fall 2009 Service

Edge.

LJ 4345 Hung Display

After the memory count, the normal initialization

display is a small HP logo that grows and shrinks in size for

 

about three minutes before displaying “Ready." If it continues

cycling for much more than three minutes, the printer probably

has an initialization problem.

Th ere are two main types of problems that cause hung

displays on the 4345. On the one hand, it could be the formatter

or something plugged into the formatter. On the

other hand, it could be caused by the engine power supply or

the FN101 fan. Th e following troubleshooting sequence will

help you discover which part is causing the problem.

Ideally, you would have all parts available that are listed

at the end of the article. If not, the procedures described in

this article will probably require two service calls:

1. Troubleshooting, to determine which parts are needed.

2. Repair (installing the parts). If the printer is at a remote

site, much of the troubleshooting can be done over the phone

with the customer. Alternatively, you may want to treat this

as a depot repair, where the printer is brought to your shop.

I. Is it the Formatter/Formatter Plug-ins or the Power

Supply/Fan?

A. Observe the “heartbeat LED” (visible just below

the parallel port, or on the M4345, below the USB

port – see figure 1). In a working printer, this LED

will flash briefly on power-up, turn off during the

memory count, and then pulse on and off in a

regular pattern while the HP logo is cycling. If this

LED is not pulsing while the logo is cycling, the

problem is formatter-related. If the LED is pulsing,

it’s hard to be sure, so we need to run an engine test.

Go to step B.


B. Running an engine test on the 4345 mfp

 

Remove the formatter ( 1. with all its accessories

and plug-ins), and power up without it.

2. Let it warm up a few minutes.

3. Make sure there is paper in all cassettes.

4. Press the engine test button.

a. Th e engine test button is accessible through

a small single hole on the back of the printer

(see fi gure 2). Use a long, thin, non-metallic

object to reach through and press the

switch.

b. Th is may require several attempts, as you

may miss the switch if you don’t go straight

in.

5. If the printer prints an engine test sheet (a

page containing just lines), then the fan and

power supply are working. Th e problem is with

something that plugs into the formatter or the

formatter itself. Go to II.

C. If the printer does not print an engine test sheet,

either the fan or the power supply is defective. If

you have a voltmeter, you should be able to tell

which part is bad by observing fan rotation and/

or measuring the voltage going to the fan. This will

require some disassembly. You will find instructions

on page six.




II. Is it the formatter or one of the plug-ins?

A. Hard Drive.

1. Turn the printer off

2. Unplug and remove the cable that connects the

hard drive to the formatter.

3. Turn the printer back on.

4. In a normally working printer, you may get a

message that tells you that copy & send functions

are disabled, and/or that the internal disk

was not found, but you will still be able to print

from the menus or from the computer. If it still

hangs or will not print, go to 2B. If it prints,

there is a problem with the hard drive. You can

sometimes cure this by initializing the hard

drive.

a. Hard drive initialization

1. With the hard drive installed and connected,

turn the printer on and watch

the display.

2. When the memory count begins, press

and hold the right side of the “Start”

button until all three LEDs are lit,

then release it.

3. Press and release the “5” key. “INITIALIZE

DISK” should appear on

the display.

4. Press and release the “6” key. A row of

asterisks should appear on the display.

Wait for the printer to complete the

initialization sequence.

b. If initialization of the hard drive does not

work, replace it.

B. Other plug-ins.

1. Remove the formatter from the printer.

2. Reseat the compact fl ash fi rmware and base

memory. Th ese are the only two plug-ins that

the formatter requires to function.

3. Remove all other accessories (fax card, extra

DIMMs, etc.).

4. Reseat the “daughter card” that connects the

formatter to the copy processor.

5. Th en re-install the formatter and power up. If

the machine now works normally, one of the

removed items is bad. Re-install them one at

a time (cycling power each time) to fi nd out

which one. If you still have a hung display with

all those items removed, one of the remaining

items (formatter, fi rmware, base memory) is

bad, and all you can do is replace them one at a

 

time. But before doing that, there are two more

resets you can try.

a. Cold reset

1. Turn the printer on and watch the

display.

2. When the memory count begins, press

and hold the “6” key until all three

LEDs are lit, then release it. Th e display

should show “Select Language.”

3. Use either the “3” key (up arrow) or the

“9” key (down arrow) to scroll the display

until “Cold Reset” is highlighted.

4. Press and release the “6” key to select

the cold reset, and wait for the printer

to complete the initialization sequence.

b. NVRAM Initialization reset

1. Turn the printer on and watch the

display.

2. When the memory count begins (on

the M4345, before the memory count

begins), press and hold the “9” key until

all three LEDs fl ash once and then stay

on (this may take up to 20 seconds),

then release it.

3. Press and release the “3” key, and then

the “Start” key.

4. Press and release the “3” key as many

times as needed, until “NVRAM

INIT” appears on the display.

5. Press and release the “6” key to select

this, and wait for the printer to complete

the initialization sequence.

6. If neither reset solves the problem, replace the

fi rmware DIMM, then the base memory, then

the formatter (if necessary).

NOTE: Almost everything in this article applies equally to

the LaserJet 4345 and the LaserJet M4345. However, note

that the NVRAM initialization procedure is slightly diff erent

on the M4345. Also, it does not have a separate fi rmware

DIMM or base memory

 

Shortcut: How to Tell if the LJ 4345 Power

Supply is Bad

When troubleshooting a hanging display on a

LJ 4345, once you have ruled out the formatter, that

leaves either Fan 1 (FN101) or the Engine Power

Supply. We at Liberty have found a way to test the

power supply without swapping parts, saving time

and money.

Th is will require removing the front cover. Th is involves

manipulating hidden plastic tabs and removing screws.

 

Some of these tabs may break when you remove the cover.

Do not worry, this does not cause problems, as the screws

hold the cover in place perfectly well.

A. Pull the control panel away from the printer to release

the upper locking tabs. Th en rotate it away from the

printer and unplug one connector from the back.

 

B. op cover fl atbed fl ange with a pick or small fl at screwdriver, then remove it.

C. Remove two screws with a long Phillips screwdriver.

D. Open the top cover and remove one screw along the left side of the front side

E. Remove Tray 2 and remove two screws above the tray

F. Slide the output bin from the MFP.

G. Release the retaining tab on the left side of the front

cover. Th is one seems prone to breaking.

H. Remove two locking tabs on the right side [just in front of the bypass tray 1 (1 of 2).




J. We now quote frome the manual: "Flex the bottom

of the (front) cover away from the MFP to release the

locking tab at the mid-bottom, and then push up on the

cover to raise it slightly. Pull the front cover away from

the MFP to remove it."

Once you have gotten down to where the fan is visible,

you can observe whether or not it is turning during the

time that the HP logo is pulsing. If the fan is turning,

the power supply is the bad part. Go to O. If the fan is

not turning, further tests are required. Go to M.

 

M. Testing voltage.

1. Remove one screw (photo, right) and unhook the

thermistor. Move it to the side.

2. Remove two screws (large arrows in photo below)

and remove the power supply shield. (Later, if

you replace the fan, you will squeeze two tabs (small

arrows) and pull the fan out.)

 

3. To check the voltage, unplug the fan connector from

the board below it (do this with the printer powered

off ), and look at the connector on the board. It

should have three pins, as in the photo above.

4. Turn the printer back on and use the voltmeter

to measure across the outermost pins (see fi gure).

You should see something between 15 and 25 volts

DC while the HP logo is pulsing. If you do see this

voltage, the power supply is probably OK and the

fan is bad. If you do not see the voltage, the power

supply is bad. NOTE: Make sure that the voltmeter

is set to the proper range

(at least 25 VDC, or

better yet, set it to autoranging),

and that the  voltmeter probes are touching the connector pins. Th is requires a good eye and a steady hand.





 

 

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