Opencube - A CubeX Duo thats been converted to opensource hardware - Any interest

[James Zatopa]

Opencube is a CubeX Duo that I converted to opensource by replacing the hardware with opensource replacements.  I have not documented it but I could pull it open and make some documentation.  Would anyone here be interested in an overview?  I have considered offering the conversion as a service but it would be rather expensive and shipping would be problematic.

Through my work I have found that the CubeX design has a large number of flaws.  QC aside, the biggest flaw is that the moving mass is way to high for a 3d printer.  The high mass, in conjunction with jerk and speed settings settings, are the cause of skipped steps in the y axis.  By switching to an opensource setup I have been able to tune out this flaw.  I can now set the printer to run and get a good print 99% of the time.  I am also able to use my own filament, which is a huge cost savings.  

The machine has been running for months but I now have a new problem with it, the bearings are failing.  A shocking thing to have fail considering the expected lifetime of a bearing.  Is anyone else having a problem with their bearings?

I am using this printer to make parts for my own prototype 3d printer that I hope to release later this year.

[Hugues]

Hi,

I'm curious to see your mod, i saw an other one in clone groups, do you use the two motors for the y axis ?
Please post pictures !

[Rodney Wells]

I have been working on a similar project.  I assume open source means Marlin.  

Are you printing lots of ABS on a heat bed.  I think you will find the bearings are gumming up with leaching chemicals from the ABS.  I thought my bearings where worn also 

MY 3D touch as done over 5000 printing Hours. I disassembled the printer a washed all the bearing.    all good. 

This is my printer I am using marlin for the heat bed control I decided the controller just needed re engineering. 

[James Zatopa]

I am using a rambo board with marlin firmware.  I did play around with The Repetier firmware as well but I think marlin is easer to setup.  I interfaced the board with all of the stock hardware with the exception of the Z endstop.  For the Z endstop I added an optical trigger.  I have the parts to add a heated bed but I have decided to just leave it as is and use it for PLA until my prototype is finished.  I have a MM 1.5 for ABS prints if need be.

Although the prints do have some moire due to the direct drive extruders, they come out looking pretty good.  

[Rodney Wells]

Nice Print.

Do you use the original extruder in your open source upgrade.  I am interested in the 200 k thyristor 3D systems have in the hot end. I think they use a ECO 230 K 

There is always a slit discrepancy in the temp with 200 k . but they work non the less.  

I have seen one other CubX converted to Marilin in my travels.   Sounds like you have done a good job.  The last person I spoke to wasn't happy with it.  

looking at the print you sorted out what he could not.  

[cgl...@gmail.com]

James,
We have a couple CubeX Duos in our shop that we have been hacking on and run Kisslicer/CubeIt with 3rd party filament. We are now out of warranty, so I just ordered a couple Rambo boards to complete our hot rod printer mods. Do you mind sharing your firmware? I saw your git repo but no firmware info in there. We are very willing to share pics etc once we get them running. Seems many people would like more info on this mod.

Thanks!
Coby

[bikejunky98]

Hi James,

Working on a Ramos conversion, can't seem to get the lead screw sorted, do you know the type/pitch?

[James Zatopa]

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you guys, I just started a new job and I haven't had much time to work on my Cube X.  I have a video and blog post planed for my website but I don't know when I will be able to get to them  in the mean time I will put my current version of the firmware up on my site and post a link here.  The firmware works for me but I have not updated it in a while, you may want to take note of all the settings (including the pins.h) and transfer them to a more recent version of the firmware.  I will do this myself at some point but I want you guys to have something to work with now.

[James Zatopa]

Guys I did a quick blog post and put the firmware on my website.  

http://www.zatopa.com/blog/opencube-an-opensource-conversion-for-the-cubex-duo-firmware/

If you have any questions please email me.

[cgl...@gmail.com]

Thanks very much for sharing James. I hope to get back to this project in the next few months. Right now we are having OK luck with the stock hardware running Kisslicer/CubeIt. Really just waiting for a hardware failure to motivate me to make the change.

We are using heated beds based on the Mk1 PCB, but it's all manual control with a variable voltage external power supply. We print ABS on glass with purple glue stick from Elmers. Temp measured with a Fluke IR thermometer at 120 for first layer and ~110 for rest. All the big fans on the carriage have been reversed to cool the extruder motors and not blow directly on the part. PLA is not an option once you make this change. We have two of these printers and they are both stuffed in a custom cabinet that runs it's own fans to circulate air and keep cold drafts off the part. Interior cabinet temp runs about 80-90 degrees F when both printers are running for several hours.

We are running 1.75mm Pro ABS from Matter Hackers without any issues. We feed it from the top while the spools ride on some custom holders we printed. However, we never push the print speeds very hard as we are more interested in accuracy. We have also removed the the second extruder from the carriage to reduce mass and it does seem to position much smoother.

When we do the Rambo conversion we will likely switch to an LCD, heated bed system and power supply from Lulzbot.

For others following I will say the CubeX linear motion, extruder and frame hardware are worth some money. If you have the time/skills to hack on them it may be worth your time.

R,
C

[Rodney Wells]

Marlin Rambo is not the answer for the cubex . its to much a dogs breakfast for most people. I have tested it so many times there are issues.    

[bikejunky98]

I'm using an Arduino with RAMPS 1.4/marlin and LCD with SD reader add on. I have a heated 12x12 pcb bed, printing on glass with kapton and e3d hotends. Had to run dual 30A power supplies, one for the bed (controlled via marlin in bang bang mode with a relay to allow the separate power supply to power the bed) and one for the hot end and everything else. I'm getting great prints at .24 and .12, although I need to perfect a few things in KISSlicer to get rid of some seam and blobbing imperfections, and come up with a better z stop adjuster. Quality and control has gone up significantly. I've also added on two diagonal cross braces (front top to bottom rear), nearly eliminating the bed shake, but still need to do some fine tuning for a clearance issue with the top left cable chain support (a knife job to the printed part got the fit right temporarily). With out the case installed, I'm able to print both pla and abs, but will be working on a fan addition for the carriage as the steppers are taking a lot of heat. http://youtu.be/RJ23h7CaYMI

[bikejunky98]

Also using matterhackers filament, pro series feeds better than the standard stuff

[Peter Gregory]

A couple of other suppliers that work well: ProtoParadigm and WinBo

[Hugues]

Colorfabb is an other great material. I tried the xt version and the standard with lot of success.

[Rodney Wells]

It works. but it a world of testing and configuring and  most people don't want this. I am sorry I was not trying to cast any dispersion on the conversion.  there are just better alternatives .

Yes I have a vested interest in the alternative but it because I believe its a much better option.   The rewiring of the cube X to Rambo or what ever. is almost not reversible.   

All you need to do is re program the CubeX controller to there 5.4.2 software and make a wiring change removing the circuity form the head.

You get to Keep the machine in it original look and condition. you can still use all the Kisslicer configurations with out the problems. and load just as before. usb and BFB file extension.

I have even manufactured a add on board to make this as easy as possible. 

[bikejunky98]

I'm definitely in agreement with you Rodney. The conversion process is not easy, takes thorough planning and an appetite for trial and error. It's not for the plug and play user for sure.

I do think that the chassis has a lot of potential and the open source community will continue to develope better solutions to many of the firmware and electronics problems.

I for one would like to see the open source community work on reliable solutions (outside of firmware) to safety issues that have (I assume) been worked out by Cubify regarding thermal run away in machines like the cubeX. Hopefully ther will be a solution that makes heated beds and high temp printing a safer experience for everyone.

Over all, I think that configuration to FDM machines in both firmware and slicer technology are critical to high quality prints, and add ons like yours will continue to enable the plug and play user to be more effective at producing quality prints. These are really just two separate paths towards better quality that will hopefully converge someday!

[cgl...@gmail.com]

On Monday, September 15, 2014 4:59:49 PM UTC-6, Rodney Wells wrote:
> It works. but it a world of testing and configuring and  most people don't want this. I am sorry I was not trying to cast any dispersion on the conversion.  there are just better alternatives .
> Yes I have a vested interest in the alternative but it because I believe its a much better option.   The rewiring of the cube X to Rambo or what ever. is almost not reversible.   
>
>
> All you need to do is re program the CubeX controller to there 5.4.2 software and make a wiring change removing the circuity form the head.
> You get to Keep the machine in it original look and condition. you can still use all the Kisslicer configurations with out the problems. and load just as before. usb and BFB file extension.
>
>
> I have even manufactured a add on board to make this as easy as possible. 
>
>
>       

I do not look forward to making the changes required. That's why I am waiting for a major component failure before we commit.

For those looking for a better Z homing solution, we are using a micro snap acting switch that's mounted to the back panel and is position so the back right Z bearing block triggers it. We had some spare switches from our CNC parts bins, but you can get them from McMaster for a few bucks. We use the switch with roller on the end of the lever. Works OK. Still not perfect, but much more repeatable than anything else we tried.

R,
C

[black...@gmail.com]

Hey . i am about to get a cheap CubeX one nozzle printer .
You said there is an easier way of doing this. Can you expand on that idea ?
What kind of board do i need ? thanx

[Hugues]

Hi,

If you want a cheap nozzle for your cubex, you can do it by your own with a 230K thermistor. You can print your shaft adapter, but it can break....

You will found all information on my website :

www.cubexupgrade.com

Regards,

Hugues

[cisub...@gmail.com]

I received a CubeX Duo and intend to modify it as you did. I want to go the ever cheap Ramps 1.4 route, which will keep my total costs quite low. If I run in to any problems can I contact you?

[Justin Funderburk]

Hello,

I have been trying to help my uncle work on this CubeX Duo someone converted to RAMPS but i CANNOT seem to get the Z Axis steps/mm correct. I have measured the screw multiple times, and checked motor specs. 1.8* Motor with a 2mm pitch and 10mm lead-screw would make me believe it's a standard steps/mm but it does not work.

[Jimboh]

I have both of my duos set as

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 175.5, 175.5, 2143.4, 410 }

so z is 2143.4. Seems accurate enough. I used it to make a MPCNC and results were great.

[James Zatopa]

I would have to dig up my old firmware for this printer but I'm sure I have it somewhere.  If you need me to look it up and send you what I have as steps please let me know.  Its been a long time but I'd double check to make sure steps AND micro steps are set correctly in the firmware.  If I remember correctly, there is a setting for that as well but it's been a while!

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