My CubeX home made Heated bed. Cheap alternative

[postm...@thehydrogenshop.com]

The approach to the problem was to make the installation quick and easy, with no modifications to the current printer.
After manufacturing a range of different printed surfaces, e.g. aluminum plate and glass, the best choice appeared to be a ceramic floor tile. It was the flattest of all surfaces, could withstand high temperatures without warping or damage, was cheap and easy to obtain and came in a variety of textures and colours. It could also be cut into shape at home with an angle grinder and if broken could be easily replaced at a moment’s notice.
Other readily available components:–
heating element
2-24 VOLT REPRAP mark whatever
PCB
heat transfer compound, generally used in electronics for the cooling of semiconductors
1 x 100k NTC thermistor
Headed bed installation cork x 3 mm
Socket nuts and bolts
Silicon wire and connectors
Retaining straps made on the 3D printer. These plastic straps secure the heated PCB element to the floor tile and secure the tile and the PCB to the printer’s aluminum heat bed. All suspended above the bed platform and insulated to protect the lower platform and the Z-axis magnet from damage.

The most obvious question that comes to mind is “how can ABS plastic hold a ceramic heating platform in place without melting, given that these parts are manufactured on this heating platform?” The answer is found in the thermal conductivity of ceramic and the position of the heating element in the center of the tile. As the tile being larger in diameter than the heating element the edges of the tile are almost always at room temperature.
All this makes for a very functional cost-effective heater up-grade for your Cubex.

[postm...@thehydrogenshop.com]

photos down load
http://www.thehydrogenshop.com/3DPR/BedHeated.zip

[simon hartley]

Cool looks nice Just bought a PID Controller from ebay and am making my own as well!

 

as dont have the money to buy a made one after buying the cubex duo but hey we are makers and part of the maker revolution :D

 

so we should be moding and making things!

 

I am looking into a custom PCB sized for the bed but may just go with the MK2 like you did but does this lead to uneven heat surface?

 

 

[Rodney Wells]

Thank you for the interest, I was rather happy it worked as well as it did. Surprised me.  

Have you thought how to hold it down on the CubeX? The cut-outs on the sides of the aluminium gantry platform  make for a great locating and support mechanise.

here are my cad drawings 

[Rodney Wells]

http://youtu.be/NzqPqOiRc8s

[3D_Tech]

Most impressive!

[Hugues]

Really cool mod!

I' ve to do this !

Thanks for sharing !

[Rodney Wells]

If you  you are going to do the same thing would you like my stl files of the adapter supports?  

See attachment.   

[buss...@gmail.com]

Hey,
thanks for sharing, I like to do the same! Unfortunately there just a log file attached. Would you mind uploading the stl files again?
Thank you very much!

[Rodney Wells]

OK let me try again.

[Lawrence Hobson]

Hi Rodney

Could you tell me how your heated bed is doing since you build it?

I would like to also create one for my printer and would like to know if you have any further comments about it. 

[Rodney Wells]

The hew bed is working perfectly.  It has printed many dozens of objects in the months its been installed.  

I broke the tile a few weeks ago when i was removing the steeper motor, I dropped the steeper on the bed and broke the tile.   I was an inconvenience but not expensive.

I replaced it with a quick trip to the tile shop.  2 dollars for the tile a 5 dollars for heat compound.   

If you follow the designs in the previous post it will work fine. 

[Lawrence Hobson]

Great, thanks for the info.

Looks like I have a new project now.

One last question, are you using a PID controller or something else

[Rodney Wells]

A PID controller is the way to go. I use an Arduino running Marlin  software It has a PID algorithm, But the Heat bed is not as critical as the hot end on an extruder . 

Any temp controller will do just fine 

[Miguel FL]

I'm testing with:

PC Power Supply 460 watts. (12V - 16 Amps.) - Cost 0€ (old PC)

PID REX-C100 - Cost 10€

Thermocouple type J (-50 - +750ºC) - Cost 5€

Industrial contactor (12V-12 Amps.) - Cost 10€

MK2 Heatbed - Cost 14€

30x30 cm Tempered glass - 20€

8 mm. Spacers and 4 springs - 2€

To avoid wrong reads of the z-gap, I put an additional magnet, over the original magnet, between the original glass plate and the MK2

[Rodney Wells]

Looks good.  I did that, Put an extra magnet under the bed. Its works OK.  But over time you still notice inconsistency with the z Gap.  

keep us up to date with you modification.