A quick note about power connections in the cube:
The cube’s base board has a built-in current-limiter that limits current from the USB connection to 1.7A. The photon routes the USB 5V power directly into the board, so you can draw up to 1.7A from the cable, as long as your power supply can supply it. You can run all the LEDs at full white from the photon (which draws the max power), but the current limiter kicks in, dropping the board voltage down and dimming the highest-voltage, blue LEDs, giving the whole cube a yellowish hue.
Most arduino designs (including all official arduinos, as far as I know) have a 0.5A polyfuse in series with the USB power line, so you can only draw an anemic 0.5A if you’re powering the cube through the arduino’s USB connector. This can still light the LEDs, but they will be dim and the colors will look yellowish-reddish. If you turn on all the LEDs full-white, it’s likely to trip the polyfuse, which cuts all power until you reset the arduino.
You can use the high-power connector to bypass these limitations. The +5V pin goes directly to the LEDs, with no current limiter in the way. You can use an arduino this way with a small 5V supply going into the high-power connector. If you want high-power and have a beefy power supply, the cube can draw up to 30A at its max brightness — this is painfully hard to look at, but if that’s what you want (burners), more power to ya! If you’re using a photon or arduino and want more current, just connect the 5V and GND lines to an external supply, and use the arduino to supply the data signal to the LEDs. A note of caution: be sure to only supply 5v through the high-power connector — higher voltage can fry all your LEDs, leading to great sadness.
Happy cubing,
Alex