Beehive Summary

[Joel Schopp]

The root cause of the failure of the new glue in on DRW at Beehive wall has been determined to be the rear seal of the AC100 tube blowing out.  This blown rear seal caused improper mixing.  Due to improper mixing the AC100 never set.  The route remains closed while volunteers complete the rebolting.

I continue to believe properly installed stainless steel glue-ins to be the safest and longest lasting choice for sport climbs and anchors.  I include the wave bolt and AC100 in this statement.

Climbtech is going to make some instructional videos on proper installation techniques.  CTM routes committee and CTM board are going to privately look at if we can implement steps to further minimize the chances of improper installation of fixed protection by volunteers.

-Joel Schopp

[Matt Twyman]

Sweet!  CT has amazing products and the CTM helps communicate issues to the community.  There's always a new experience to learn from.  Very glad someone getting spooked was the extent to this.

so how do the rest of us know if this happens to us?

well done.

Matt

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[Matt M]

This video is pretty good in the mean time.  There are a few subtle differences when placing a Wave or Titt Bolt but the gist is there.

Powers AC100 Installation Video

Things I've learned:

- No Blow Tubes.  Hand Pump Only

- Use WIRE brushes to scour the hole if possible.  This differs from a mechanical bolt install where you want to use NYLON to avoid enlarging the hole.  It's actually good if you slightly enlarge the bottom of the hole as you create a bit of an undercut anchor.  1/2in SS Brush

It's actually best to have BOTH types of brush with you.  The stiff metal ones can occasionally bind in a tight hole or hard rock making them PITA, so having both options ensures a good brushing.  In a pinch you can also run to the local sporting good store and buy some gun cleaning brushes (usually brass or stiff nylon)  50cal covers 1/2in and various shotgun sizes will get you into the larger 9/16 and 5/8 sizes if need be.

- check the fit of the bolts and the hole depth.  Dry fit them into the hole.  They should go most of the way (2/3+) in before they "grab".  If they catch before that you will be beating on the bolt to get it in and risk a botched placement.  Vinny can probably comment more on this as the new Waves are better fitting than the earlier gen. 1s and different than the Titt design in terms of "lock in"
- before attaching the mixing nozzle I inspect the two openings for the glue on the tube tip and make sure they're free and clear. This is especially important if re-starting a partially used tube as you often need to clear out old gunk.

- once the nozzle is on and you start to pump you need to be mindful of any odd resistance in the first few pumps - this can catch a malfunctioning tube.

-  With A7 mixing nozzles they're somewhat clear and you can see inside them.  As the two components enter the mixing nozzle I'll visually check that I see a light and dark part entering in near the tube tip and that they're mixing inside.  I'm not sure this is possible with the AC100 nozzles?  

- Once the glue emerges, watch for the color change.  You can do it on a piece of paper like the video or watch as it drops into your holster "goo bag".

- Keep in mind that once you pump the mix together the clock is ticking.  You can't let the mix sit in the nozzle for more than 4-6 minutes in warm weather before it sets up and you loose the nozzle.  You have a bit more time when it's cold.  In the summer, I keep the tubes in an insulated bag with some cold packs to give me bit more time.  This also means you need to have every hole prepped before hand.  One pass on the rope for drilling, and cleaning and another for the gluing.  

- Don't use any random hammer on the bolts.  A SS hammer (ala BD Wall hammer) or the CT installation tool ensure you don't leave marks on the bolt that become corrosion points later on.

- MAKE A GLUE GUN HOLSTER.  Having one of these is mission critical IMO.  The whole process is messy, the holster makes it bearable.  I took a big plastic cup from HEB ($1) and cut the end off.  I used part of a coat hanger to fashion a clip in point on top.  Then, duct tape a disposable plastic bag on the bottom (stiffer bags you get from someplace like the GAP or some other mall store are best as they hold up a lot better)  This gives a place to stick the caulk gun, squeeze out the first pumps of glue AND, at the end, check the glue in the bottom to see if it hardened up properly.

- before re-holstering the caulk gun, release pressure on the tube so you don't have it dripping all over the place.

- a good rag and glue "spatula" (Orange Lead spoons work well) help to clean up the exterior of the hole.  Have a dump pouch to stick this stuff in as it gets nasty.

- When you're done, clean up and then check all of the following to ensure proper curing;  Mixing Nozzle, Excess Glue in the Bag and the actual bolts.  I typically burn time giving the whole route another cleaning via leaf blower...

- a partially used tube can be reused so long as you thoroughly clean the tip before recapping it.

- If part of an anchor / lower off, use SS QuickLink on the glue ins.  This avoids any contact corrosion on the SS GlueIns.  It's much easier to swap out the SS quick link than it is the bolt.

[Joel Schopp]

Matt,

You seem pretty passionate about this.  We have an old how to bolt in Central Texas document that covers installation of Powers bolts.  Would you like to update it and add information on installation of glue-ins?  I can send you a link offline.

-Joel

[Vinny]

Matt, we should make a video of you rebolting lipo with wavebolts?  Thoughts?

[Matt Twyman]

I'm passionate about seeing Markell update the CTM bolting guide!

This would be yet another huge & everlasting contribution from him.

Matt Twyman