Fwd: Sport anchors on bird dog (seismic)

[Matt Twyman]

Can anyone confirm?
Picture would be cool.
Thanks
Matt

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Stephen Marek" <steve...@gmail.com>
Date: Sep 8, 2013 7:51 AM
Subject: Sport anchors on bird dog (seismic)
To: "Matt Twyman" <twea...@gmail.com>
Cc:

Matt,

Fyi, I was just on bird dog yesterday and the sport anchors looked like they're getting close to half worn. They may need to be replaced sometime soon.

Have a great weekend!

Steve

[Joel Schopp]

I'll be at Seismic Wednesday.  I can check them out then.

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[Joel Schopp]

I forgot my cellphone and tools.  But I can confirm one of the two anchors on the climb three right of Over Easy (I assume that's bird dog) on Seismic is worn about halfway through.  It's one of the Fixe wiregate kind.  The rest of the climbs anchors look to be fine, including the left anchor of that climb. 

Who gets the honor of going down to replace it?

-Joel

On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 12:54 PM, Matt Twyman <twea...@gmail.com> wrote:

--

[Gmail]

Captive biners with quicklink from climb tech. Here is a good chance to give that a look. 

Adam Mitchell
Rock-About.com
In...@Rock-About.com
512-415-0804

    

[Gmail]

Oh and I don't mind changing them. 

Adam Mitchell
Rock-About.com
In...@Rock-About.com
512-415-0804

    

On Sep 11, 2013, at 11:31 PM, Joel Schopp <joel....@gmail.com> wrote:

[Joel Schopp]

If you do the work you get a lot of discretion on what to use, I trust your judgment.  We've been using the climbtech chain anchors a lot with good results.  It's basically the steel biner with locking pin on a couple links of chain with a quicklink.  Using just a quicklink and the steel locking pin biner would be fine too.  Note if you don't match the length of the left anchor which has some chain you may need to replace it at the same time to make them even length even though it is not visibly worn.

I think CTM is probably out of stock but will soon reorder some chain anchors.  Since we are out of stock if you want to purchase some on behalf of CTM for this project Neil can reimburse you.

[Neil Higa]

The Routes Committee is in charge of what type of hardware we use.  It's typically not up to the installer to decide.  Since Adam is on the committee it's essentially the same thing, but I didn't want anyone to get the wrong impression that anyone can put up anything they want without talking to RC first.

Adam, I can definitely reimburse you if you buy any anchors; just e-mail me a scan of your receipt.

By the way, Bird Dog is the climb immediately to the left of Over Easy, not the one Joel checked.  So Bird Dog still needs to be looked at as well.

I would guess all the climbs at Seismic in general will need to be looked at more frequently than other areas.

[Matt M]

Just an FYI - The Climb Tech Captive biners only work with 5/16" hardware (chain or QLs).  The space between the steel pin and the biner's spine is too small to fit 3/8" stuff.  CT may have changed this but the Steel Biners I got from CT last season were 5/16th only.  I opted for G43 chain given the smaller diameter.

Has the route committee ever considered Mussy Hooks for the really high-wear anchors?  Cheaper and much more durable (but not without their own quirks).

[Gmail]

I changed most of seismic so far and the climb tech biners are holding up well. Ill look at BirdDog, but what other climb needs it?  The report from the community was for BirdDog. 

Adam Mitchell
Rock-About.com
In...@Rock-About.com
512-415-0804

    

[Vinny]

Matt, you can put the biners through the chain.

Ok, mussy hooks...pros are they are huge and will take forever to wear through them...cons...the gate isnt rated and pretty flimsy.  That being said i can source them...from taiwan for CHEAP.  We would just need to come up with a huge bulk order.  If we only want 20-50 of them the best place is www.usrigging.com.  That being said, usrigging.com is a customer of ClimbTech so we could get reasonable discounts on small orders of those as well.

My honest opinion would be to avoid using them in CenTex, they get used a lot in the volcanic areas on the west coast where grit gets into the ropes and the top anchors get worm down really fast.  People used them all over for a while but the bulkiness of the hook left snow angel type markings on the rock from rubbing.  So, i would actually vote against them, but its up to the committee.  IF you guys want them, I can get them pretty cheap.

If this is up to a vote, i vote no.

-CV

[Matt M]

Sorry Vinny, I wasn't clear.  The CT biners FIT through 3/8in chain no problem but the captive pin can't be used.

With Mussy Hooks, I tend to use them at anchors that have a stance and nice clean lower.  It avoids any clipping issues or gate issues.  If clipping the anchors is more involved or there's a chance someone will try some weird rope wankery that might have "Gate Issues" I usually opt for a Steel Biner.

Vin, I source my SS QLs from US Rigging but never saw Mussy Hooks on there?  I currently use the Seachoice 36981 Heavy Duty Winch Hook which is Taiwan sourced.  It's nicely made and I trust the Taiwan sourced steel a LOT more than China.

I've used CT Steel, Fixe Wiregate Steels or Mussy's depending on the anchor situation.  Each has their "best use" scenario.