Fwd: Sex canyon routes review

[Matt Twyman]

Crew,

I took a fair amount of time after the Limestoner to review Sex Canyon bolts (from Telegraph Road to No Recess).  I'm embarrassed to say that I haven't climbed any of these routes in a long time and so relied on visual inspection from the ground with binoculars.  We have a good amount of work ahead of us that I think we should start to get on the calendar.  See my notes below. I am adding all of this information to Bad Bolts.  I'm a fan of retroing a few of these to adjust # of bolts & clipping stances.  Particularly, Blood of the Dead, Learning to Fly, and Learning to Crawl.

I envision scheduling a weekend and attacking them all en force as a crew.  Possibly next Sunday, May 10, or over Memorial Day Weekend, May 23/24?

Let me know if you're interested / available.

Regards,

Matt

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Matt Twyman <twea...@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, May 1, 2015 at 9:54 PM
Subject: Sex canyon routes review
To: tweakman <twea...@gmail.com>


Telegraph Road - horrible shape. All bolts look to be 3/8" studs. Nuts & studs all have bad rust. No washers present. In need of retro. No signs of rebolting ever

Blood of the Dead - 1st bolt no washer. Rust. ?size?  2nd & 3rd - rusted washers. Retro to make clips safer?  No signs of rebolting ever

Let Them Eat Flake - 1st rusted washerless stud, size?  No signs of rebolting. 2nd recently replaced. 3rd replaced but rusting w/o wshr. 4th & 5th rusted washerless studs. No signs of rebolting. 

Love Is A Fist - 1st wshrless powers. Mild rust... Monitor. 2nd wshrless stud w rusted nut... Replace. 3rd wshrless powers w very rusted nut... Replace. 4th wshrless stud w rusted nut & bad placement... Replace.  5th wshrless powers w very rusted nut & bad placement... Replace. 6th powers w wshr, no rust... Monitor. 

Bolus - 1st plated powers w wshr, no rust... Monitor. 2nd plated powers w wshr, starting to rust... Monitor. 3rd plated powers w wshr & permadraw, head starting to rust... Monitor. 4th plated powers w wshr starting to rust... Monitor. 5th 

Learning To Fly - 1st plated powers w no wshr, rusted head, lots of seapage... Replace.  2nd & 3rd plated powers w no wshrs, both dry and no rust, looking in great shape... Monitor.  Consider overhaul for bolt locations to eliminate need for stick clip and incredible excess slack required to clip 3rd bolt from cave. 

Super Cruiser - 1st plated powers w wshr, rust and seapage but not too bad yet... Monitor or replace. 2nd plated powers w rusting wshr but not too bad... Monitor.  3rd plated powers w rusting wshr but not too bad... Monitor.  4th cannot see but no signs of rust below. 

Learning to Crawl - plated powers w wshr, minimal rust, replacement... Monitor.  2nd plated powers w no wshr, very rusted head, no signs of replacement... Replace. 3rd plated powers w wshr in great shape... Monitor. 4th plated powers w wshr in great shape, recently replaced.  5th inconclusive but suspect rusty from wear on QL. Retro to add bolt btwn 1 & 2!

No Recess - 1st & 2nd plated powers w wshr, substantial wear & seapage... Replace. 3rd rusted washerless stud, size looks to he 1/2"... Replace. 4th plated powers w no wshr, in great shape... Monitor. 5th stud bolt w no wshr in good shape... Monitor. 

[black...@gmail.com]

Matt:

I'd like to learn your removal technique and participate in this effort. 

I would note that May 10th is Mother's Day  :)

Sent from my iPad

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "CTM Hardware Maintenance" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to ctmbolts+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[Christopher Vinson]

I've been going out a lot and climbing a bunch in the canyon.  I'm in. 

I've been taking notes, there are alum biners at the top of bolus, all permas should be removed or replaced.  Not sure about moving any bolts though.  Learning to fly is named that for a reason... ya know?

Either way just lemme know and I'm there, park closes at 8.30 these days and I can get out anytime after five on a weekday.  

-v

[Seiji Ishii]

Hey Matt,

 

Count me in on whichever day you figure out. Thanks for all the oversight man!

 

-Seiji

--

[Karl Guthrie]

Have drill, will travel. If I am in town I will help.

Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S® 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

[Matt Twyman]

Aware of Mother's Day.  I offered it up because I'm booked on all other weekends other than Memorial Weekend for quite a while.

I could swing a weekday push, but heading out after 5 still compresses the effort quite a bit.  Would prefer to have full day with crew.  Could support Sunday M Day afternoon.

I hear you on Learning to Fly, but am a strong proponent of waist-height clips when possible.  I'm also a proponent of having 1st bolts below the roofs on all routes from LTF left.  They'd keep the rope out of climber's crotches and legs when working to existing 2nd bolts.  We'd just need to evaluate each route as we go, but I feel it's all worth a discussion at the least.

Tommy, Du, John Deas,

Great time for y'all, and others, to learn the ways.  This is really what I've been hoping for all along.  

cheers,

matt

On Sat, May 2, 2015 at 9:30 AM, CRAIG TOMON <tomon_...@me.com> wrote:

Looks to be a busy time for Sex Canyon.  But well worth it in my opinion.

Im thinking that Sam and I are going to go to Last Chance Canyon during Memorial Day weekend.  I could put in some time next weekend (the 8th-10th) after my mom leaves town on Sunday.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 2, 2015, at 12:14 AM, Matt Twyman <twea...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Matt Twyman]

Adding Joe Sulak & Matt Markell to the mix!

Bring it SA

[Troy Wilson]

I am in!!!  Thanks Matt!

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "CTM Hardware Maintenance" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to ctmbolts+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--

Troy Wilson

President  - Austin Rock Gym Inc.

Instructor - American Mountain Guides Association

Instructor - Professional Climbing Instructors Association

Wilderness First Responder - Wilderness Medicine Institute

www.austinrockgym.com

[Matt Twyman]

Obviously, rains are making tomorrow unviable. 

I will be out of town the next three weekends so if anybody is up for weekday work, let me know. Vinny mentioned jetting out after work. Maybe some people can start earlier and the rest of the cavalry shows a bit later?

Matt

[Troy Wilson]

I am willing to go any day.  Keep me posted.

[Matt Twyman]

Well... Today would have ended up being freaking perfect.  Oh well, hope everyone is celebrating their moms.  It's gorgeous out.

So, I'm looking out to Monday or Thursday as my next viable days.  Rain appears to be a concern, but it looked that way today too, so I'm gonna play it by ear.  Let me know if you're interested in either of those days, during the day, and I'll coordinate with you offline. 

matt

[Gmail]

Thursday works for me buddy. 

Adam Mitchell

Rock-About.com

In...@Rock-About.com

512-415-0804