Coat 3d Model Free Download

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Zareen Zapata

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Aug 4, 2024, 9:03:51 PM8/4/24

to crusvaliro

BasicallyI'd like to know if it's possible to import/replace two new meshes into a 3DCoat project and keep the ones that are working ok. I'm having issues with two objects (Saddle01 + Saddle02), when I paint on them something looks really off, so I fixed those objs in Maya and want to bring the fixed version to 3DCoat.

I've had issues with one of my meshes before and what I did before was a little boring and not very practical, I think. I saved the PSD layers of the paint work that I did on my model on 3DCoat > Exported my fixed meshes into one OBJ (Maya) > Created a new file on 3D Coat > Imported the mesh > Edit All Layers on Ext Editor (Photoshop) > Replaced the blank file with the PSD layers that I was working on. It solved my problem but I had to fix a lot of tiny little things because of that and I can't help but think if there's a more intuitive way to do it.

Thank you so much in advance!

I tried Import> Replace Mesh as well and it seems to work fine! However, I was just wondering if there's a way to delete separate OBJs and import only a few, just like Maya. I'm just trying to find out what can or can't be done with 3D Coat.

A wet coat is a final heavier coat that looks wet after you put it on . It takes a bit of practice because there is a fine line between a wet coat and too much paint that would just end up running. You Usually mist on several light Coats 1st to build-up the color and give the wet coat something to stick to and then you put on a final wet coat to give a nice smooth glossy finish. You should put on the wet coat before the mist Coats dry completely

What I tend to do with cars is progressively heavier coats. How this is accomplished depends too on what you are applying the paint with. In my case that is generally an airbrush where I have control over the paint flow rate by opening the nozzle more or less according to the paint amount I want. With spray cans it's more about distance from the surface and speed of passes per coat ( still available to the airbrush user as well). With brushes it's the amount of paint you load the brush with. And in any instance experience and practice produce the winner. In spray painting there is a balance between distance sprayed from and how fast you pass the spray over the car parts. If you slow down it gets wetter, speed up then dryer or more of a mist coat than really wet. Same with distance, further away dryer, closer in wetter or heavier. A direct cross reference to dryer and wetter coats are the terms lighter or heavier coats. You should be getting the picture in your mind about now. Dry vs wet is about less or more paint per pass. Yet with an airbrush it's more than that because you can put down a wet coat that is light by changing nozzles but that's off the general topic here for now.

So recapping in a general way. Slow down and move in closer for wetter coats. Move further away and speed up will generally make more of a mist coat or dryer coat. This concerns spray painting, obviously brush painting is another matter and an art form of it's own.

I use the same techniques as above. I wouldn't really call what I do coats though. I've become accustomed to just using my old Paasche H single-action, siphon feed airbrush, so my way of painting is based on that. In my case, I would call my base coats passes, since I'm going back over the model from where I began right after I finish the first pass. The first pass is further away and faster, with each pass getting progressively closer until I have an even, glossy finish. After that cures for about 7 days (that is for using Model Master enamels) in my little dust-free chamber (an upside-down Gladware dish), then I do my version of a wet coat. I make a paint mixture using the base color and Model Master thinner...a mixture that is mostly thinner. I shoot that in quick, even, straight-line passes. When that cures, and I'm afraid to touch it because it still looks like fresh, wet paint, then I know I have a good result. Ultimately its going to come down to lots of experimentation and finding a technique that works best for you, but this is how I do mine. Its not just good for car bodies, but also for the dreaded job of painting the insides of jet intakes. It melts down the base coat that is grainy due to trying to paint the inside of a tube, and results in a smooth, glossy finish.

I consider a wet coat as one just about ready to run. How do you know what it looks like just before it runs? Practice. I believe the secret to a wet gloss coat is to practice for at least a half hour or so on scrap plastic rather than gaining experience ruining good plastic models.

I tend to use acrylic lacquer and am coming on. Dont forget that with a wet coat, a huge proportion of it is thinners, which will flatten out nicely, particularly if you have a retarder or leveller in it.

I don't want to do something just because the guys on YouTube are doing it until I UNDERSTAND what the purpose is. Are clear coats to protect the paint from scratching off easily? Or do they make the paint easier to clean? Do they help if you're going to paint another colour on top of them? Or all 3?

If a clear coat changed the apperance, it wouldn't be a clear coat. But there are several reasons. Most paints are matt, so a clear gloss coat helps when adding the decals. A clear coat will also protect the paint when weathering if you use certain types of weathering products on certain paints. The final clear coat is to protect the paint and decals and give an overall finish.

To echo Mike, a clear gloss coat is very important as a base to put decals on without their "silvering"- little bubbles under it that make it look foggy. A gloss paint finish works as well, but most military models as matte or flat.

My usual approach. Paint the model with whatever combination of paints I find useful. In many cases there could be metallic lacquer, acrylic colors and enamels all on the same model. Motorcycles come to mind.

Clear coats are unnecessary for two reasons. One, they darken paint, especially flat color. Two, as far as decalling is concerned, they are redundant. Paint does not have to be glossy prior to decal application, it only has to be SMOOTH. Check out Paul Budzik's Scale Model Workshop videos on YouTube for further information.

." Two, as far as decalling is concerned, they are redundant. Paint does not have to be glossy prior to decal application, it only has to be SMOOTH. Check out Paul Budzik's Scale Model Workshop videos on YouTube for further information."

When it comes to model building I do believe there are scratch gremlins out there that sneak out and scratch the paint when you aren't looking. If the scratches are from your fingernails then get some thin cotton gloves to wear while you handle it and see if that helps.

The difference is sheen. Flat reflection scatters light in all directions and there will be no highlights. High gloss scatters more directionally, and especially there will be highlights from directions of light sources.

Glossing for decals has already been mentioned. Cars and civil aircraft usually have glossy finishes. For those, people have the choice of a gloss paint, or flat paint plus glosscoat. The result is not quite identical, but close enough for some people. The gloss coat gives a wet look, maybe not appropriate for older cars, but new cars are gloss coated at factory, and show rods and customs are usually gloss coated, so it is appropriate for them.

Both my You Tube modeling Gurus ( Paul Budzik and Will Pattison ) do not advocate the use of a clear coat in order to apply decals . I've had no trouble following their advice. Also in eliminating the decal clear coat I have one less chance of imparting goobers , an ongoing battle with me, to my paint.

I understand the need for gloss and matte coats. They add to the authenticity and detail of the model. It's clear coats I don't understand. If it's just for non-silvering decals & protecting the paint from the weathering process, then I won't need it because I don't do a lot of weathering and my decals look fine.

Pardon my ignorance but what's a goober? I'm getting the definition "goof" on Google. Did you mean you have less chance of making a mistake if you eliminate a process to your model, such as clear coating?

For me, I am using clear coat certainly in part to protect a very delicate paint finish. I can handle the model a little bit and the paint rubs away. Also the assitance with prevention of silvering on the decals will be helpful even if it is said as not required. With the delicate finish and the texture surface of the model I am trying to finish up, I don't want to put any decal solution on the delicate paint under concern that it may ruin the finish.

After the decals are on, there will be a top coat to seal in the decals. As far as applied decals, they will scrach off with your fingernail etc. As to if they may sliver over time, I know of models I made as a kid I so often had the edges of the decal I guess "silver". So much so I felt like if I wanted them correct I should cut down the decals before applying them. We are taking several decades ago, maybe decals are better today. Still the A10 I am building with marginal assistance from my son, the Decals do not look like they "belong" on the model correctly. They are high gloss this is a military plane, not a high gloss model. It will get a clear mat finish over the decals when complete. The matt or flat clear will "tie" the look together. It will assist in making the decals more durable. My son will not just let it sit on a shelf, it may not be a showroom grade build, but I want it to look as good as reasonble.

Ya the goobers or boogers in the paint are a pain. I am not good enough to stop them, I do my best to limit by fast drying of the paints and not leaving them out in the open while wet for dust to settle on them as easily. I think it helps a bit.