JADE Phi P47 01 Removing All

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Jalisa Landgren

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Jul 15, 2024, 9:53:57 PM7/15/24
to crowsignwitchhon

Dear Orchidians, I have had an enquiry about removing a Jade bangle
from a female clients wrist. The bangle is solid Jade and can only be
broken off or cut off. The bangle will not come off over her hand. She
bought it while in Malaysia. They massaged her hand and wrist for
about an hour with oils and herbs and the bangle just slipped on.
This was about ten years ago.

JADE Phi P47 01 Removing All


Download Zip https://vlyyg.com/2yLlpl



Brian, About the Jade bangle. The very ancient belief is that Jade
will protect you. The Jade will shatter before your health. I am now
wearing my second bangle, the first one did indeed shatter into three
pieces. I replaced it as quickly as I could, and have yet another one
in a drawer ready if necessary.

The method related, is indeed how the bangle is put on, and it is a
bit painful to say the least. The hand to the wrist is coated with
oil or soap, the thumb and portion below it is forcefully folded into
the palm with the little finger and below it then pinched on top of
the thumb part. The bangle is forced over this area until it slips
onto the wrist. I cannot see removing it easily.

If indeed she insists. slip a jewelers saw blade teeth face up
underneath the bangle, affix it into your jewelers saw and begin to
saw away. Her hand and arm are not in danger with the saw blade
facing away from the skin. It will take time and maybe a few saw
blades. Try to keep the wrist submerged while sawing, and good luck.

Why do I a westerner accept this belief? I was wearing a jade bangle
ring, I opened a spring loaded door with my hand holding the door.
The spring load forced the door strongly into the wall, my hand was
in jeopardy of being smashed. That small jade ring stopped the door
from slamming my hand into the wall, yes it did shatter, my hand did
not. Teresa

The other technique is use a plastic bag method. Use a small
plastic bag, cover the palm of the customer where the bangle that you
are taking it out. Once you have cover the palm with the plastic bag,
slip the front of the plastic bangle underneath the bangle. Slowly
move the bangle forward by slipping the bangle over the plastic bag.
It is the same with oil method but plastic bag can be quite easy.

The ros path and different versions of ros couses problem in my system.I want to completely uninstall ros from my system. I want to completely remove all things related to ros from my system. How can I done this?

hello,Actually I had both indigo and jade installed in my system. I tried to remove jade by sudo apt-get remove ros-jade but it shows unable to locate package ros-jade. I want to remove only jade

There is also one interesting thing occurred while the purging process: it has deleted "Krusader" file manager from my system. I am new to Ubuntu, so I don't know why this purge command has also done this.

The command should be sudo apt-get purge '^ros-*', to match really only things that start with ros-, otherwise it will uninstall other packages that contain the string ros, like things with microsoft in the name (this is probably also the answer to your problem, @aidos).

Hi, I would like add a point here. I tried the above remove command. All the files were removed except for a folder in /etc/ros/rosdep/. This folder contains the sources list. I believe this too should be removed. Please correct me if I am wrong. thank you.

Trying to revive this suffering jade by repotting it into a gritty mix recipe. However, it's so rootbound that I don't know how to remove all the soil without breaking anything. Do you have any tips? I'd really like not to kill it. Thanks so much!

Q: I have a jade plant that has been flowering for about two months and is very beautiful. My concern is that I have no idea what to do with the plant after it finishes blooming. Do I have to trim the tips of the branches? Thanks. (e-mail reference)

A: You are experiencing a rare treat, so enjoy. Once the flowers are finished blooming, remove the spent blooms and allow the plant to grow with normal care. This usually is a once-in-a-lifetime experience with a houseplant.

Q: I just inherited a ficus tree that I know nothing about. I'm usually good at bringing plants back to life, but this ficus tree is bumming me out. The owner was about to throw it away because she thought it was dying. It still is green under the bark, so I know it's still alive. I believe it's in shock because the leaves are drying up and falling off. I know it went through a lot before it came to me. Please help me pep this poor thing back up. (e-mail reference)

A: I have no magic words or snake oil recommendations that will help you. I suggest that you keep the soil barely moist and be patient. As long as the cambium is still green under the bark, there is hope. It might remain dormant through the winter months. After spring arrives, placing it outdoors might perk it up. Right now, patience is the best approach to take. There is nothing to inject into the soil or plant that will pull it out of this funk.

Q: I've had two jade plants for four years. About all that happens is that the top leaves get a little bigger. The plants are green and stand up on their own, but one of the stalks is loose in the soil. What gives? (e-mail reference)

A: The plants don't like something in the environment or there is a problem with something that you are doing or not doing. Jade plants need strong, indirect light. Direct sunlight would be OK during the winter months. To correct the problem with the foliage at the top, I would suggest that you cut the stalk back and cut the pieces into 4-inch lengths for rooting. Lay the cut pieces in a bed of damp, unmilled sphagnum moss that barely covers the stalks. In six or so weeks, there should be some leaves coming from the top part of the cuttings and roots developing at the base. After the roots grow to ample volume, pot the cuttings in a pasteurized media. The leaves then will reorient themselves to the light and you will have new jade plants to give to family and friends. As for the stalk that has no roots, that is because of deficient leafing volume. You probably cannot change what already has taken place, so I would suggest dumping the plant and replacing it with one of the newly-rooted plants.

Q: My sister gave me two silver maples to plant. However, the maples look more like bushes than trees. When should I start pruning so I can get them to look more like trees? Which branches should be pruned off and which should stay? How many should stay? (e-mail reference)

A: Give them a year to get established and then prune about one-third of the lower branches back to a main stem or trunk. Do this after the trees have leafed out in the spring to cut down on excessive sap flow. Repeat each year until you are satisfied with the canopy level and spread that you want. From then on, keep sharp eyes out for any V-shaped branch connections developing. If that happens, remove the lesser of the two branches to prevent problems later on.

Q: I bought a small ficus. About two to three weeks later, I noticed the plant had white, cottonlike material on the bottom of it (I could see it through the drainage holes). I decided to repot the plant using new soil and a new pot.

I may have overwatered the peace lily slightly, but I'm sure I haven't overwatered the ficus since replanting it. I'm not sure what to do. The ficus has begun to drop healthy, green leaves like crazy and the peace lily is drooping. I don't want the peace lily to die because of its sentimental value. What can I do? (e-mail reference)

A: The peace lily probably is attempting to enter dormancy. Allow it to dry down and cut off the wilted and dry leaves. Give it a minimum of six weeks in a cool, dark location, such as your basement, and barely keep the soil moist during that time. Eventually, some new growth should emerge. After it does, move the plant back to normal light and begin your regular watering cycle again. Peace lilies are hard to kill, so don't worry. The leaf drop by the ficus should end soon.

If not, get some and repot. Anytime you repot, always wash and sanitize the container if you are going to use it again. Overwatering and underlighting kill houseplants faster than anything else. You've recognized that you may be overwatering; now ask yourself if the plants are getting enough light. In most cases, they are not. Use a plant light that is set up on a 12-hour schedule.

Q: I found your Web site after someone told me that I may have planted a weeping willow too close to my house. I have a damp area about 20 feet from the back of my house, so I thought it would help to plant a weeping willow. Between the house and the willow, there is large French drain that handles runoff from the gutters. In winter, this area stays waterlogged, but I'm hoping the tree will reduce the problem. I planted it less than six months ago and it is doing very well. However, a friend told me that a willow should be at least 60 feet from a house because of its intrusive root system. I am wondering if pruning will limit the size of the tree. If so, will this have a corresponding impact on the extent to which the roots travel? (Philadelphia, Pa.)

A: I wish truth traveled or got around as efficiently as does fiction or hearsay. Plenty of willow trees planted are planted 20 feet or closer to a house without negative consequences to the foundation from the roots. Roots will follow the path of least resistance. In your case, it will go with the flow of water. You only have to worry about roots if your basement has leaky, weak walls. A willow tree should be trimmed very little so it can show off its magnificent architectural shape as it matures. One thing you will have no matter where the tree is placed is plenty of kindling. For some homeowners, it is a headache that causes them to regret ever having a willow on their property. For others, it is another small chore to perform before mowing to have a neat looking yard. It sounds like your tree is doing exceptionally well. I would encourage you to leave it in its present spot and enjoy watching it grow. Don't be afraid to do some selective pruning or have it done professionally. Selective pruning will minimize the kindling that collects under the canopy.

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