Welcome to the Official Troubleshooting Center for CT Ciclop 3D scanners

[jasond...@gmail.com]

Hi Everyone! Ziggy, Weston, Laina and I are Looking forward to helping you along with any questions you may have on your scanner. 

[jmsj...@gmail.com]

Glad to have my kit, and I've got it all assembled!  Software appears to be an issue, however:

Mac OS 10.11.5

Macbook Air 13" mid 2012

I've selected "camera 1" to switch from the built-in FaceTime camera, but when I click "connect" I get the following error:

Wrong firmware

The board has the wrong firmware or an invalid baud rate.

Please select your board and press "Upload Firmware."

Current settings are:

Camera ID: 1

Serial name: /dev/cu.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port (no other is selectable)

Baud rate: 115200

Luminosity: Medium

Invert the motor direction (No)

AVR board: Arduino Uno

Binary File: Default

Clear EEPROM (No)

Language: English

My first thought is that the serial port is incorrect, but I can't select anything else.

-Jason

[ja...@cowtechengineering.com]

Sounds like you haven't installed the clone drivers?

[roberts...@gmail.com]

On Thursday, July 21, 2016 at 10:18:30 PM UTC-6, jmsj...@gmail.com wrote:

Glad to have my kit, and I've got it all assembled!  Software appears to be an issue, however:

Mac OS 10.11.5

Macbook Air 13" mid 2012

I've selected "camera 1" to switch from the built-in FaceTime camera, but when I click "connect" I get the following error:

Wrong firmware

The board has the wrong firmware or an invalid baud rate.

Please select your board and press "Upload Firmware."

 

I selected the Uno board, updated the firmware, and all was good.  I'm on a Mac also.

[roberts...@gmail.com]

It's alive!  But high...  Scan's work well, as long as I don't want the bottom 100mm or so of the scanned object.  Horus had determined that the bottom of the scan area is in the middle of the calibration pattern.  I have the pattern settings per the instructions, with the origin distance close to what's in the doc.  For the moment, I put a 'platform adjuster' in place (i.e. book).

Any thoughts?  It's running on a Mac.  I'll try messing with the origin distance to see if I can get it to an appropriate location in the mean time.

Thanks,

Rob

[roberts...@gmail.com]

meantime...

Sigh. 

[zig...@gmail.com]

Hi Rob,

Could you give me a screenshot of the result of your Platform Extrinsics calibration? 

If its not that, I might recommend that you rerun all of the calibrations in the control workbench. You've been following the directions in the scanning guide, right? http://www.cowtechengineering.com/downloads I'm wondering if maybe your camera got bumped and is now looking at a higher angle than before.

[roberts...@gmail.com]

On Friday, July 22, 2016 at 2:36:48 PM UTC-6, zig...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi Rob,

Could you give me a screenshot of the result of your Platform Extrinsics calibration? 

 

If its not that, I might recommend that you rerun all of the calibrations in the control workbench. You've been following the directions in the scanning guide, right? http://www.cowtechengineering.com/downloads I'm wondering if maybe your camera got bumped and is now looking at a higher angle than before.

I've re-run multiple times, following the directions. 

[jmsj...@gmail.com]

I installed the drivers, but I also found the following:

If I plug the USB cable into my computer's port, the computer complains that it's demanding too much power and that it's been disabled.  I switched to a powered port, but it give no indication that it's connected (this port has lights that indicate when a device is plugged in and drawing power).

I started tearing it down in order to double-check my steps and found that when the shield is removed, the Uno clone connects to the computer just fine.  I swapped the Uno clone for a branded Uno and found that still, when the shield is connected, the Uno does not work.

Any ideas?

-Jason

[Jason Smith]

It sounds like there is a short in either your Shield or The stepper driver. With everything unplugged and all the power off remove the stepper driver and see if the issue persists. if it is solved we will send you a new stepper driver if it is not solved we will send you a new Shield.

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[jmsj...@gmail.com]

I removed all connections including lasers and LEDs first; no dice.

I removed the driver and still no dice.

Pulling the shield off allows the Uno to work every time.  : (

On Friday, July 22, 2016 at 6:24:28 PM UTC-7, Jason Smith wrote:

It sounds like there is a short in either your Shield or The stepper driver. With everything unplugged and all the power off remove the stepper driver and see if the issue persists. if it is solved we will send you a new stepper driver if it is not solved we will send you a new Shield.

On Jul 22, 2016 7:18 PM, <jmsj...@gmail.com> wrote:

I installed the drivers, but I also found the following:

If I plug the USB cable into my computer's port, the computer complains that it's demanding too much power and that it's been disabled.  I switched to a powered port, but it give no indication that it's connected (this port has lights that indicate when a device is plugged in and drawing power).

I started tearing it down in order to double-check my steps and found that when the shield is removed, the Uno clone connects to the computer just fine.  I swapped the Uno clone for a branded Uno and found that still, when the shield is connected, the Uno does not work.

Any ideas?

-Jason

On Thursday, July 21, 2016 at 9:20:04 PM UTC-7, ja...@cowtechengineering.com wrote:

Sounds like you haven't installed the clone drivers?

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[Rich Clarke]

Are you plugging the DC power into the shield, and not the Arduino board?

[sechy...@gmail.com]

Were you able to get this resolved so that you don't have to use your "platform adjuster"?

I seem to be experiencing the same issue now that I resolved my laser issue (and I'm thinking that half the reason I couldn't get any points was this and not the laser focus - though I'm sure any points I could have gotten would have been crap prior to focusing). I've currently got the scanner plugged into a Windows 10 machine, so it doesn't appear this is platform specific (I have a Mac as well, just haven't tried it yet on that machine).

The bottom ~65mm of my scans aren't being "seen" by the camera for some reason. Short objects generate no points at all.

On Friday, July 22, 2016 at 4:57:55 PM UTC-7, roberts...@gmail.com wrote:

[Ziggy Q K]

With regards to the bottom 65mm or 100mm being invisible to the camera:

Does adjusting the origin distance change this at all? (Calibration Workbench -> Pattern Settings) If so, adjusting this number may be a good temporary workaround.

Where is the bottom of your ROI in the Scanning Workbench? If the bottom of the ROI corresponds to this 65mm cutoff point, then I'd think it'd be some kind of calibration / origin distance issue. If the bottom of the ROI includes the bottom of the scanning table, I'd be interested in seeing a screenshot of what your scan segmentation looks like (from the Calibration Workbench). Does the camera "see" this area in the Calibration Workbench- > Scan Segmentation screen?

[sechy...@gmail.com]

Adjusting the origin from 36mm (which is what I have it at from measurements, up from 35.5) doesn't modify it at all. I changed it to varying things, including -36 and 200 - no change whatsoever in the ROI screen in scanning workbench.

The bottom of the ROI does match the cutoff when I turn it on in the Scanning Workbench.

I located the Scan Segmentation screen on the Adjustment Workbench. The lines do in fact show the scanning table/platform, and even a tiny bit of light from the motor base underneath. I've included a shot (note that I don't have things calibrated right now, lighting is bad so the lines are thick and twitchy on the segmentation screen in this shot).

[roberts...@gmail.com]

On Saturday, July 23, 2016 at 12:07:37 PM UTC-6, sechy...@gmail.com wrote:

Were you able to get this resolved so that you don't have to use your "platform adjuster"?

Yes, by having the origin distance at 99mm.

 

The bottom ~65mm of my scans aren't being "seen" by the camera for some reason. Short objects generate no points at all.

Which fits wonderfully with my 99mm value (34.22mm 'nominal' + 65mm).

[roberts...@gmail.com]

On Sunday, July 24, 2016 at 12:28:46 PM UTC-6, sechy...@gmail.com wrote:

Adjusting the origin from 36mm (which is what I have it at from measurements, up from 35.5) doesn't modify it at all. I changed it to varying things, including -36 and 200 - no change whatsoever in the ROI screen in scanning workbench.

'It worked for me'...  Presumably you re-did the platform intrinsics after adjusting the origin offset?

 

I located the Scan Segmentation screen on the Adjustment Workbench. The lines do in fact show the scanning table/platform, and even a tiny bit of light from the motor base underneath. I've included a shot (note that I don't have things calibrated right now, lighting is bad so the lines are thick and twitchy on the segmentation screen in this shot).

Mine looks similar, although doesn't go as low as the motor base.

[sechy...@gmail.com]

Thanks for the reply.

I was not brilliant enough to have actually re-calibrated the platform intrinsics after I made my modifications, so that was definitely the issue (and that makes sense, I just wasn't thinking about it - I'll blame it on my first 3d scanning adventure). With your notes, I set my offset to 100mm (35mm + the 65mm that I couldn't get scanned at the bottom of my objects) and it seems to work fine with that. The ROI shows exactly what I would expect (and covers the platform nicely).

I have a really crappy room for this - I need to re-calibrate extensively for every scan because of the room lighting being dependent on the daylight outside (even with the shutters closed), and it has several spots of glare. BUT - the scans are working, the objects are "seen" in their entirety.

So, thanks to all that assisted me with this and the lasers - all is well now, it's down to calibration and maybe building myself a soft box for the scanner.

If I don't see any bug reports for Horus for this I'll see about filing one. This is pretty odd behavior, and really makes very little sense to me why you would have to add such a large amount to your offset - unless it's actually wanting the offset from he TOP of the pattern? That actually just occurred to me... I'll have to measure from the top and see if it matches up to the measurement just for my own curiosity. Either way, somethings off - because even if that ends up being true their documentation states to measure from the platform up.

On Monday, July 25, 2016 at 10:24:45 AM UTC-7, roberts...@gmail.com wrote 

[sechy...@gmail.com]

FYI for anyone interested:

https://github.com/bqlabs/horus/issues/84

There was an issue logged on June 12 - but it has zero information or troubleshooting, has no one assigned, etc... I added some info to it from what was found by those here. Hopefully it will get some attention.

[Robert Creager]

On Jul 26, 2016, at 6:51 PM, sechy...@gmail.com wrote:

I have a really crappy room for this - I need to re-calibrate extensively for every scan because of the room lighting being dependent on the daylight outside (even with the shutters closed), and it has several spots of glare. BUT - the scans are working, the objects are "seen" in their entirety.

So, thanks to all that assisted me with this and the lasers - all is well now, it's down to calibration and maybe building myself a soft box for the scanner.

I’m going to be picking up a NeoPixel Ring and Adafruit Trinket, put a pot on it to control the brightness and tap into the servo shield board for power.  I thought about doing a soft box, but figure this would be easier/more compact.  Go figure.  May need both of them.  I have some light absorbing material I picked up years ago which made a huge difference for a backdrop.  I’ll put it on the platform next I think.

Best,

Rob

[sechy...@gmail.com]

I have a spare one of these fluffies from Ikea: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20119418/

I figure I can use it to make an OK indirect lighting box for the scanner.

I think I may have to pick up some of that light absorbing stuff though.

[tur...@googlemail.com]

Hi I have a ciclop 3d scanner but cant seem to get it to work.
I am using Horus on a Mac running OSX 10.12.3 (Siera), but most the support doesn't correspond to the board I have installed in the scanner. The board is an evolution board.


The error message is "The board has the wrong firmware or an invalid Baud Rate. Please select your board and press 'update firmware'" when I do this I get the error "Probably you have selected the wrong board. Select another board".
the only Serial name i can select is "/dev/cu.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port"
Anyone else having this issue or can help please?

[Jason Smith]

Have you verified the board to work on its own without the scanner? That would be your first step. The issue you have described is fairly common with arduinos as well, but the serial name doesn't sound right. I would verify first that your computer is seeing the board and second that the board can load a sketch or something on it. 

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[kma...@charter.net]

[mtow...@gmail.com]

I completed assembly of the scanner and installed drivers along with Horus per pages 7 & 8 of the CowTech Scanning Guide. I am running windows 10.

When I run the wizard and attempt to connect it complains that the board has the wrong firmware, or an invalid Baud rate. It directs me to select my board and press "Update Firmware".

I click OK in response to the alert it opens a preferences window which does have an option to upload firmware. I sect Arduino Uno as the AVR board and take the default for binary file then press upload firmware without clearing eprom. It runs for a bit and seems to have completed. Baud is 115200. I click save and attempt to connect again. I get the same error.

I made certain I had installed clone and camera drivers, rebooted and tried again with same result. Verified both usb cable and power all plugged in. Looked over the electronics to verify I'd not missed any pins. 

Found an indication on the internet that maybe I had the wrong firmware so I got another from web and attempted the upload from this other hex file - still no change. 

Anything else I can try?  

On Tuesday, July 19, 2016 at 1:33:45 AM UTC-4, Jason Smith wrote:

[Jason Smith]

The wrong firmware error can be a finicky one. Ironically, don't worry about your firmware. I would put it back to the original firmware, if you can. Switching to a different version of Horus can be the best way to solve it, often. Otherwise, re-installs and reboots eventually seem to align things enough to get past the bug. There are links to other Horus versions on the resources tab of our website. 

Jason

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[Mike Townsend]

Thanks Jason, not sure how to get back to original firmware, assume that was loaded by you guys? I have two versions at moment - the one that came with Horus and another I got min github, .2 I think. Will install other version of Horus. PleasE let me know what firmware you think best.

On Sun, Mar 25, 2018 at 11:46 AM Jason Smith <ja...@cowtechengineering.com> wrote:

The wrong firmware error can be a finicky one. Ironically, don't worry about your firmware. I would put it back to the original firmware, if you can. Switching to a different version of Horus can be the best way to solve it, often. Otherwise, re-installs and reboots eventually seem to align things enough to get past the bug. There are links to other Horus versions on the resources tab of our website. 

Jason

On Sat, Mar 24, 2018 at 4:35 PM, <mtow...@gmail.com> wrote:

I completed assembly of the scanner and installed drivers along with Horus per pages 7 & 8 of the CowTech Scanning Guide. I am running windows 10.

When I run the wizard and attempt to connect it complains that the board has the wrong firmware, or an invalid Baud rate. It directs me to select my board and press "Update Firmware".

I click OK in response to the alert it opens a preferences window which does have an option to upload firmware. I sect Arduino Uno as the AVR board and take the default for binary file then press upload firmware without clearing eprom. It runs for a bit and seems to have completed. Baud is 115200. I click save and attempt to connect again. I get the same error.

I made certain I had installed clone and camera drivers, rebooted and tried again with same result. Verified both usb cable and power all plugged in. Looked over the electronics to verify I'd not missed any pins. 

Found an indication on the internet that maybe I had the wrong firmware so I got another from web and attempted the upload from this other hex file - still no change. 

Anything else I can try?  

On Tuesday, July 19, 2016 at 1:33:45 AM UTC-4, Jason Smith wrote:

Hi Everyone! Ziggy, Weston, Laina and I are Looking forward to helping you along with any questions you may have on your scanner. 

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[Jason Smith]

Reloading the Horus firmware will be best

On Sun, Mar 25, 2018 at 11:11 AM, Mike Townsend <mtow...@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks Jason, not sure how to get back to original firmware, assume that was loaded by you guys? I have two versions at moment - the one that came with Horus and another I got min github, .2 I think. Will install other version of Horus. PleasE let me know what firmware you think best.

On Sun, Mar 25, 2018 at 11:46 AM Jason Smith <ja...@cowtechengineering.com> wrote:

The wrong firmware error can be a finicky one. Ironically, don't worry about your firmware. I would put it back to the original firmware, if you can. Switching to a different version of Horus can be the best way to solve it, often. Otherwise, re-installs and reboots eventually seem to align things enough to get past the bug. There are links to other Horus versions on the resources tab of our website. 

Jason

On Sat, Mar 24, 2018 at 4:35 PM, <mtow...@gmail.com> wrote:

I completed assembly of the scanner and installed drivers along with Horus per pages 7 & 8 of the CowTech Scanning Guide. I am running windows 10.

When I run the wizard and attempt to connect it complains that the board has the wrong firmware, or an invalid Baud rate. It directs me to select my board and press "Update Firmware".

I click OK in response to the alert it opens a preferences window which does have an option to upload firmware. I sect Arduino Uno as the AVR board and take the default for binary file then press upload firmware without clearing eprom. It runs for a bit and seems to have completed. Baud is 115200. I click save and attempt to connect again. I get the same error.

I made certain I had installed clone and camera drivers, rebooted and tried again with same result. Verified both usb cable and power all plugged in. Looked over the electronics to verify I'd not missed any pins. 

Found an indication on the internet that maybe I had the wrong firmware so I got another from web and attempted the upload from this other hex file - still no change. 

Anything else I can try?  

On Tuesday, July 19, 2016 at 1:33:45 AM UTC-4, Jason Smith wrote:

Hi Everyone! Ziggy, Weston, Laina and I are Looking forward to helping you along with any questions you may have on your scanner. 

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[lionel.mo...@gmail.com]

Hello
Just received a ciclop and get a message to update my firmware .... but it says it is the wrong card ...
Trying here to see if anyone encounter this problem ?
Thanks !

[pig...@gmail.com]

Hi Everyone,

I'm having the same problems as a lot of people here, but there seems to be no answers?

Assembled, plugged in, connect button does nothing.  Camera connect gives the same error

The board is not connected.

Please connect your board and select a valid Serial Name

Serial names seems completely wrong. 

/dev/cu.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port

/dev/cu.Bluetooth-Modem

/dev/cu.-WirelessiAP

Nothing like USB ports listed.

This is all very frustrating.

Hope someone can help.

thanks

[pig...@gmail.com]

I found this USB driver

https://github.com/adrianmihalko/ch340g-ch34g-ch34x-mac-os-x-driver/blob/master/CH34x_Install_V1.4.pkg

Suddenly everything worked!

But only once.

Now when I try to connect, my screen goes black and my computer restarts...

[flipy...@gmail.com]

I cant get this thing to work at all!    It keeps telloing me the damn board is not connected  please help as Im realy frustrated

[elha...@gmail.com]

look at device manager withthe camera disconnected, then connected and look for the virtual com port number com5, com6, etc... might also be found under ports in device manager.

next, try camera ID 0,1,2, or 3 

I also like using VLC video player's capture device mode to prove out the camera to make sure it's good before chasing it in Ciclop/Horus.  Again, camera name, port and camera number must be fiddled with to see video come through to your screen.

Once you see video in something like VLC, you know your camera is good and you just have wrong settings in Horus.  When your camera does connect, you'll hear and see a slight movment of the stepper motor and scan table.

My Logitech comes up at com5 and camera id 1

-Eric

[jays...@gmail.com]

I'm running Windows 7 64 bit and as soon as I connect my scanner through horus my processor gets hot and the computer reboots
Many thanks
Jacob

[jkinc...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, 19 July 2016 01:33:45 UTC-4, jasond...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi Everyone! Ziggy, Weston, Laina and I are Looking forward to helping you along with any questions you may have on your scanner. 

having a problem, i connect my scanner camera comes on then camera is disconnected it does it most of the time

[stryk...@gmail.com]

When i run horus and click on connect it cannot connect to camera. I tried the camera selection but only see one option as camera 0. When i run the logitech camera sorfware i can see the camera working fine in that program but for some reason the horus software cannot find the camera

[tdeco...@live.be]

Hi is this still alive ?

I'm trying to install my cyclop scanner, but it demands a serial number ?  Where can I find it ?

Thanks

Op dinsdag 19 juli 2016 07:33:45 UTC+2 schreef jasond...@gmail.com:

[Jason Smith]

I don't know what software is demanding a serial number but it isn't anything that you need to run a Ciclop scanner of any brand, none of them have serial numbers as far as I know. 

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[joaosa...@gmail.com]

Hello everyone, I assembled a Ciclop and installed everything following

Ciclop 3D Scanner (BQ & Horus) by dtrewren instructables DIY tutorial and when I try to boot Horus in my Win 10 x64 PC it just doesn't boot.

I was unable to obtain the 0.2 version, so I installed the only one available online I could find.

I installed the clone drivers and everything I could understand from the tutorial but when I start it, it shows a CMD line window for a moment, then the boot logo for a while, then it switches off again.

Thanks for any help

[Jason Smith]

You should be able to get all the Horus versions on the CowTech site www.cowtechengineering.com

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[dossm...@gmail.com]

Phone is disconnected and no tracking on order placed 10 days ago. Emailed 4 times with no response.I think this company is out of business

[dossm...@gmail.com]

What is the difference between the regular and the ready to scan kit. I ordered a ready to scan but it has no mention on the box what type of is. I paid $40.00 for the ready to scan because I don't have a table to assemble it and low on time also. No one is answering both phone calls and emails about this question. So I have to wait because I think they mixed up the order with someone else.

[Jason Smith]

The ready to scan kit includes the 3D printed parts, but both kits require assembly. 

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 9:39 AM <dossm...@gmail.com> wrote:

What is the difference between the regular and the ready to scan kit. I ordered a ready to scan but it has no mention on the box what type of is. I paid $40.00 for the ready to scan because I don't have a table to assemble it and low on time also. No one is answering both phone calls and emails about this question. So I have to wait because I think they mixed up the order with someone else.

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[Doss Man]

Thank you! 

[dossm...@gmail.com]

No flat on motor and no M3x7 screw with ready to scan kit.

[medic...@gmail.com]

My tabletop will not do anything except jerk and click. wont spin the table any ideas?

On Tuesday, July 19, 2016 at 12:33:45 AM UTC-5, jasond...@gmail.com wrote:

[Seth McKay]

My scanner will not pick up blue colors. They come up as blank areas in the points cloud. Has anyone else had this issue?