Ihad network drops around same time every day in very consistent fashion. Turned out to be switch mounted 150 ft from controller with bad connection. Removed it and issues resolved. Possible another device is creating the issue for the locks(other device flooding network enough to block locks that see the flood and wait to conserve battery vs your other powered devices that will transmit regardless of conditions). Maybe there problems is symptom of other condition
Good Morning Nathan, Thank you so much for a most helpful and complete reply, I will work through everything you have said today, they are L1 Yale locks with S2 security and am using brand new Fibaro sockets.
I am using a Pi with a SSD and I have both Zigbee and Z-Wave dongles on USB extensions, however, I did buy a posh USB hub and it is USB3 so that is interesting will get a USB 2 hub bought today and try swapping it out.
Hi Nathan,
I have now changed the USB set up with a 2.0 and separated the two dongles and moved the dongle nearer the back of the house, with quite a bit of success, one of the 2 locks that were playing is now very stable, so this seems to be simply a hardware position issue, I will play more with the routing to see if I can get the last lock to behave. It seems patience is the key with Z-Wave.
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Today I am are unboxing and taking a first Ring Alarm System With built in z-wave tech I was really curious as to how this thing performed. I had ring gen 1 and had to step a way for a while. With this new release of Ring Alarm I...
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I recently bought a Hauppauge Z-wave wireless smart plug below.
amazon.co.uk Hauppauge mySmarthome Z-Wave Wireless Smart Plug:
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Based on some discussions on the forum I understand this is a rebranded Philio PAN11 device. I could find the following information regarding the device but have no idea on how to create a device type. Can someone please help me with creating a device type for this?
Features - Adopt Z-Wave protocol to secure the success of wireless two way communication - Higher RF output power (+2.5dBm output power as compared to -2.5dBm 300 series Z-wave module) to enhance the communication range - Easy...
Hi all, I found this thread seaching for ways to make my PAN11-3B work properly, in the end I included it (it showed up as a Z-Wave Switch) then changed the type to Philio Smart Energy Plug in Switch in the IDE.
I can't seem to find any that are Zigbee or Zwave. (I guessing they take up too much room). I've seen several that are WiFi, but after searching the forums I can't find anything within the last year or so that let's me know if Hubitat has any drivers for them that would let me control the plug sockets indepenantly.
Zooz makes an "indoor" double plug, but people have had problems with it on the C-7 (and probably newer), so I wouldn't recommend it, even though certain settings may help. They do have an "outdoor" plug, but there's no reason you couldn't use it inside (just make sure whatever you're using is within the specs, same as any outlet). It's a bit different in that it doesn't sit directly on the wall, but it's the same idea: Zooz 700 Series Z-Wave Plus Outdoor Double Plug ZEN14 - The Smartest House
Inovelli used to make one, and a few white-labels probably did the same, but I can't even find those anymore and that one is, of course, long-gone. If you aren't set on Z-Wave or Zigbee, you could also use a TP-Link Kasa power strip (cheaper than the only current Z-Wave one I know of) or similar.
I posted about this recently and tried to peruse through the forums for ones that have worked well for others. Unfortunately, the consensus has been all the Zigbee/Z-wave ones are kind of a "hit or miss" so there would be no way for sure unless you tried it yourself. Another option is to just stick individual plugs in a regular surge protector, but that's kind of a crappy solution. If you're fine with WiFi, then the TP-Link Kasa will most likely work. Fortunately, I didn't actually need it since my TV that has Google TV runs fine on the Chromecast Driver and my surround sound that uses eARC will turn off with the TV.
On my hydroponics I use some heavy-duty 6" extension cords and 6" Y-extensions to utilize a few Third Reality ZigBee plugs that don't fit next to each other on a double-gang outlet box. Slightly cheaper than a Zooz strip, and has better max power handling.
Thanks all for the replies. My intent is to plug it into a power strip, just that it is getting a bit tight in there. Because of that the outside one, which just has a 3 prong plug and then and extension to the double plug, might work the best for my use case.
I still have a couple of these, but they are old Zwave 300 and I replaced them with Kasa light bulbs. I noticed that there are ZigBee Smart Light Bulb Sockets on the market. There even may be equivalent wifi devices. I also found these on the internet but $ 50 seems expensive and they are different from the ones I have.
Yes, you can sample position of an index of a face or vertex on the wave where you want the sphere to stick, that way you can use it with transform node. You have to add radius to the Z also.
wave21631094 169 KB
Probably easies solution would be using raycast and with attribute statistic node find shortest distances to offset the sphere. For more accurate results (to remove stepping if sphere is low resolution) you can use circles with high resolution and use it shortest distances to offset your sphere
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