Pilot 232 Schematic
Sinikka Curz
Anyone know where a schematic for the Gossen Super Pilot might be found? I'd like to start using it again and would like to modify to use a 1.5 volt cell and also get an idea which calibration pots do what. I believe I've read a Schottky diode can be put in a leg of the battery holder contacts to drop the voltage to what a mercury battery puts out. Would rather not use zinc air batteries which have a relatively short life.
By your own description the difference in battery voltage between the modern battery you can find and the original mercury battery throws off the readings. You will need access to an accurate meter to use as a control to calibrate yours. Create a stage set so that both meters see the same thing. Take readings with both meters then follow the instructions in the manual to adjust the zero position or the ASA number setting to make your Super Pilot match the control meter.
I do have the original manual so that's not a problem. What I need is the electrical schematic for the component connections. So far as recalibrating, there are 3 potentiometers for adjustment and I'm not absolutely sure which on does what and how they interact.
Not having much luck locating a schematic, I ended up taking it apart and sketched up what I believe to be a correct representation. Some of the wiring that was on the backside of the PC board I took an educated guess of its connections. As drawn it seems to make sense.
To facilitate recalibration to a 625 Silver Oxide battery I drilled 3 small holes in the backside of the meter case just large enough to insert a jewelers screwdriver through to make the adjustments. I tried adjustment with the case back off, but light leakage and trying to hold the battery in place made it too difficult. Holes are covered with tape afterwards.
With a fresh battery and a Sekonic L-358 as a side by side reference for measuring, I first adjusted R3, which I believe to be the coarse adjustment. This was followed by tweaking R3 to match the setting on the Sekonic. Lastly R1 which is the battery check adjustment was set to the BC square on the meter dial. R1, R2, & R3 are arbitrary numbers I assigned to the potentiometers. They may be different on a real Gossen schematic.
I have since made some comparisons with other meters at varying levels of light both incident and reflected. The Gossen matched up very close. Also some test shots with a Canon 20D. The Gossen matched right up to the metering of the 20D in reflected measurements.
The CdS cell is still slow as molasses, but at least the meter seems accurate with a readily obtainable battery. If this post helps anyone out there with one of these meters, I gladly email you my address where to send donations...Only joking!!! Enjoy....
With a fresh battery and a Sekonic L-358 as a side by side reference for measuring, I first adjusted R3, which I believe to be the coarse adjustment. This was followed by tweaking R2 to match the setting on the Sekonic.
Correction from previous noted in bolded text....
With a fresh battery and a Sekonic L-358 as a side by side reference for measuring, I first adjusted R2 (coarse adjustment), which I believe to be the coarse adjustment. This was followed by tweaking R3 (fine adjustment) to match the setting on the Sekonic.
The 3-way pilot valves feature modular construction and incorporate a sliding spool. The standard spool has a small center dead spot position and no valve port overlap. With the spool fully to the left (rest position), Port 2 is open to Port 3 and Port 1 is closed. With the spool moved to the right (actuated position), Port 2 is open to Port 1 and Port 3 is closed. The valves are available with a variety of manual and pressure operators and with manual, pressure or spring returns.
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