Dragon 4 Pro Instructions

[Sandi Loisel]

Inthis slightly longer video you can get an impression of the design process. I started with a walking mechanism and built the dragon from there. I quickly discovered that the total weight of the dragon is problematic for most walking systems. In the end LEGO is just plastic. So I needed a strong and smart construcion. After walking worked more or less I moved on to the wings. I wanted a double action wing movement, much like real birds. So not just flapping, but also tilting and moving the wings forward. In the last stage I detailed the head. This was more work than I expected. The head changes the total model impression a lot. A draws a lot of attention. So it need to be just the right size and just right dangerous expression.

After showing the dragon on some fairs Martyn Boogaerts had the idea of building a dragon stand that was high enough to allow for flapping wings. I took his idea one step further and made a rotating version. You can also build that stand with the pieces of the two remix boxes. There are separate building instrucions on Bricklink for it. (See below for links.)

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The updated mechanism features an even smoother wave motion with an increased amplitude. I was able to achieve a cam offset of 30 degrees between adjacent cams (instead of the 45 degrees used in the Dragon Dance modification), and increase the travel height of each segment from 1 stud to 2 studs.

In addition, I was able to make each segment of the dragon tilt as it traveled, to stay at a tangent to the wave that is traveling through the body. You can see the model in action in the video, along with an explanation of the mechanics.

The stand is decorated with some imagery from the story, including the Ivory Tower and the Southern Oracle. The black pieces on the right side of the stand represent the Nothing, which is slowly taking over the world.

Building NotesAs with any Technic model, it is important to ensure the mechanics operate smoothly while being assembled. Once the cam shaft is assembled and inserted into the base, ensure it can rotate freely, without catching on any parts of the base. You may have to slightly adjust the positions of some of the liftarms or pulley wheels.

Similarly, once the body supports are attached to the top of the base, ensure they can travel up and down freely. If any seem particularly tight, you can wiggle them a bit, to slightly adjust the bricks in the frame and increase the available space. You may notice they will catch on the top of the frame if you lift them up too much, but they never travel that high during normal operation.

Over time, you may find that some of the supports will start to intermittently stick. I have found that adjusting them again usually fixes this. Dust accumulation can also cause problems, so keeping the model clean will help. Applying a PTFE based lubrication on the moving parts can also help keep the model running smoothly.

Hi Jason, I just got your luck dragon model (from buildamoc.com) as a birthday gift. Finally I am the proud owner of a jkbrickworks original! Thank you so much for this amazing piece, which will have a special place in my house (out of reach of my kids ?

Having placed my order for the instructions and pieces, the release of this Luck Dragon is perfect timing, as I needed one for my house. I will add a pearl to its claw for the best Feng Shui effects and maximum good luck.

I found this guy (or gal) in a lot purchase and was hoping to complete it since it seems there are missing pieces but I can't identify it to find any build instructions that might be available.Can you identify it for me??

My daughter is having a princess and Knights Birthday party September 6 th and I really want a dragon pinata! After making her giraffe pinata last year I vowed to never make another one lol but this dragon is just too perfect to pass it up!

The lower half of the dragon is made up of the belly, the haunches, the feet, and the tail. The upper half is made up of the chest/neck piece, the head, and the small arms. To attach the pieces, the parts were first taped together using masking tape then cemented in place using two layers of papier mch. This means that where the pieces were joined together, the papier mch could end up being five or six layers thick. The wings are not part of the papier mch stage and were added later.

Once the haunches and belly were wrapped and taped together, I put a few layers of papier mch over the whole thing to hold it together. Once it was sturdy enough, which probably took three or four layers of papier mch, I popped the balloons and pulled them out, then patched up the holes this created.

The chest and neck are a cone made of papier mch. There are a few different ways of making a papier mch cone. What I did was take a large laminated world map, roll it into a cone, and support it from the inside with a ball or something to keep it from collapsing in on itself. Then I taped a layer or two of newspaper over the cone and covered the newspaper with three or four layers of papier mch, one at a time. The chest/neck has to be stiff enough to support the arms and the weight of the head. When it was done I trimmed it around the bottom to fit the belly, then taped it on and cemented it in place with papier mch.

The hanging hook should go in the belly, or at worst in the upper back, but not in the head. My first dragon was hung from his head, and got decapitated at the party. The neck is the weakest point in the piata.

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The in-game tips when you first encounter a new feature (like crafting or the tactical menu) is very helpful. However, there are a couple of things I inadvertently skipped or didn't read carefully. How can I go back and view those or see the same type of instructions in a manual?

Recently found this set and remember wanting it so badly because of the dragon. My mother prefered me getting something more girl-centered, but the dragon won out. Even now, my niece put the belville aside to play with this set.

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im writting program which translate ast to tac,all of my related knowledge is from dragon book.but i have some doubt when im attempting to write code for array member reference and struct member reference.

however,in tac,there is also exist instruction such as x=*y and *x=y,so can we use latter replace former in practice?i want to know in dragon book,x=arr[i] or arr[i]=x is theoretical or for writting rather than in practice.for following tac:

An understated point of the conversion into three-address code (or a similar IR), is that complex expressions become broken up; all intermediary computations are given names (such as the introduced temporaries in the example conversion above), and all operands are simple (they're either variables or constants). This is the more important aspect of the conversion to a TAC IR, because the atomic nature of operands to the x[y] = z and z = x[y] can more easily have corresponding load/store targets instructions selected for them.

The dragon book's choice of keeping the array subscript notation seems to be purely for consistency of presentation. Later on in the book (see Ex. 2.80), these IR instruction trees are tiled with corresponding load/store ("LD/ST") instructions.

Brickmania Digital Building Instructions are the original kit assembly instructions modernized for the digital age. Now you can download official Brickmania model instructions right to your computer or tablet and pick up everything you need to make it a complete build. Each download bundle includes instructions, sticker artwork, XML file(s) and a parts list.

This is not a LEGO Product. LEGO and the LEGO minifigure are trademarks of the LEGO Group, which does not sponsor, authorize or endorse this product. The LEGO Group is not liable for any loss, injury or damage arising from the use or misuse of this product.

Sewing around the wire pieces is up to you. The interfacing should hold them pretty good. But! My personal preference is to sew around them all. If you look at my listing on etsy, you can see how I do it pretty clearly. I sew pretty tight to the wires, so be careful not to sew too close or over the wire and break a needle! -wings?ref=shop_home_active_2

Thank you so much for this awesome tutorial!! I am so excited to make my son some dragon wings. I did have a question, Do you think I could easily add in a different fabric, like a faux or vegan leather or stretch leather? Or is the thickness of the fleece needed? If so, do you think it would be difficult for a (advanced beginner sewer) to add some leather details? My son loves dragons and id love to make him the wings for fun and for halloween.

OMG! You just made my day! Ive spent the last week trying to figure out how I was going to make the bat like wings for a Hercules Pain & Panic costumea for this years Halloween Disneyland trip. I could not for the life of me figure out how to get the pleather fabric to work! I literally just spent 30min lookin for the fusible adhesive i had hidden somewhere & low & behold it works perfectly! The picture are so helpful too! Yay! TY TY TY!

I realize that this is an old question, but for future reference to anyone who is interested you could make these following the directions using white felt then take an iridescent sheer fabric and cover the felt wings on both sides and either zizag stitch or use a fancy stitch to attach the shimmery fabric along the edges (you could go along hangers too to provide extra detailing) then trim the sheer fabric down to the size of the wings, did this without interfacing or wire to make dragonfly wings for a costume and fairy wings for a doll. For these dragon wings you probably will want/need the extra stability and support provided by the wire hangers.

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