Octopus 3d Print

[Cortney Ruic]

DescriptionNotes by Dave: This is the Mokuhankan reproduction of Hokusai's most iconic shunga image. The original dates from 1814, and was not a single sheet print like the one you see here: it was a spread in a small book, crossing the gutter in the centre where the book was bound. For this version, I 'pasted' the two halves together to create a clean single print.

I do not own a copy of the original book, but when I was planning this project, I called up my friend the book/print dealer Shingo Ueda, to see if he might know where I could find one. I was in luck, as he not only owned a very nice copy, but was willing to let me borrow it to use as a guide for making my reproduction.

That process began with taking a very high-resolution scan of the two pages, and then stitching them together. This was not as easy as it sounds, because in traditional Japanese books of this type, the left and right sides of each spread are actually on separate woodblocks, printed at different times. In the case of the book from Ueda-san, the registration on one of the pages was quite a bit off, so I had to make considerable adjustments to get things to line up properly.

Anyway, at the end of the day, I had great fun making this print, and am very happy to have been able to use my skills to bring Hokusai's work to a wider audience, for people to enjoy at their own pleasure.

Shipping note: Some people have expressed concern to us about the packaging for this print. On the shipping package the contents will be described as 'Japanese print', and there should be no reason for any difficulty. But if you live in a country where a customs inspection of the package could cause legal difficulties for you, then it might be better not to purchase this item.

The embossing on the initial group we published reads ... Design: Katsushika Hokusai Carving/Printing: David Bull. Subsequent batches have been printed by the Mokuhankan staff, and carry a different print name.

A high quality print on a thick semi-matte cardstock. Each print is hand signed on the back by the artist. The print will be shipped flat in a protective plastic sleeve, along with a piece of foamcore board to prevent bending. I take the utmost care to package my artwork securely and attractively! If you're sending this as a gift, let me know and I can indlude wrapping and a card! You can see more of my art and illustration work at www.reneenault.com. Happy shopping!

I just purchased a Taz 4 and I was wondering, if anyone knows the resolution - or even better, what settings the little octopus - the one that came with the printer, was used to obtain such quality? I leveled the bed and went to print the octopus when I noticed that it was a different size (larger,) and with a lower resolution as the little octopus that came with the printer!

If you are getting a plain white cover, just checkout with the blank cover and nothing else is necessary. If you want a single color, please leave the CMYK color code in your customer note at checkout. For custom images, please make sure you e-mail us the appropriate files at support [-at-] cuddlyoctopus.com. Important checklist (and template) for custom images!To ensure smooth processing of your custom images print, we want to make clear how to prepare your files and check for common issues. Please run through this checklist before sending your files to us.

Yes! This file is the template we use internally for all of our projects. Its size is a bit different from what we described above (54x166cm), but it helps us maintain flexibility between 150cm and 160cm printing without losing too much in any one direction and keeps all our characters from experiencing accidental loss of limb. If you use this template and size your character so no important bits are inside the blue and purple areas, there should not be a problem.

If you are ordering custom images, please make sure you e-mail us the appropriate files before or after you checkout to support [-at-] cuddlyoctopus.com! We will review the designs and get back to you shortly on their suitability for printing.

8x10 and 11x14 prints will be carefully packaged with a stiff backing board in a protective cellophane cover, then wrapped in bubble wrap all inside a rigid mailer and 16x20's will be protected and rolled in glassine paper, then put in a cellophane sleeve all inside a rigid mailing tube to ensure they're protected during shipping.

Newly configured unit. RPi running Octopi V1.0.0 Octoprint Version 1.9.1

Pi is powered by a dedicated Meanwell 5V 3A PSU with the Octopus USB power jumper removed

Two additional 120mm Case fans are powered by SW PWM linked to the RPi core temp.

The only non-standard part of the wiring is that there are two 3mm LEDs with resistors in parallel with the hotend fan to provide illumination for my RPiCam V2, which is run via CSI to the Pi in the main enclosure. There is also a USB webcam installed on the system.

This setup worked very well (1000+hrs) on the stock v2.5.2 board until I had a wire wear through and short on the X gantry. This resulted in blowing the traces off the x axis breakout board for the fan wiring, which were subsequently repaired and the printer put back into service.

After getting Klipper all working properly I still have intermittent failures which I am now trying to troubleshoot. I have reviewed the major topics on this relating to wiring and ESD, but I just want to make sure I am not missing something obvious before I waste many more hours chasing this problem. It seems that in most cases these issues have been quite difficult to resolve.

I have tried turning off StealthChop and went over the board and pushed each pin of the extruder and end stop connectors down to ensure they were all seated, visual inspection of the leads shows no abnormal bends or damage.

I could try pulling the 5v and pi outside of the enclosure and test that. I just thought it would be nice to have everything in the same box, dividers and baffles have yet to be printed as the printer is not reliable yet. I tried 3 times to print the fan shrouds and got 10-20% of the way there.

Did another 9h run overnight with the PiCam, USB Cam and StealthChop Enabled, without errors. I will mock up and attempt printing a new baffle duct and divider design to appropriately segregate the AC lines and PSUs.

Generally speaking, this often is some wiring / connection issue, but could also be some influence that is messing up the entire communication.

Made a similar experience with TMC2209 on UART and a MAX31856 module in a driver slot on SPI. The MAX module was faulty and dragged all TMC drivers into not working.

I have read that thread, and a few others with similar errors. I intentionally did not install the filament sensor or PT100 for testing in case they added additional complication. I had no idea I would be 20h+ into with no progress. If anything this situation seems to have degraded substantially with the fans off the case, I will put more direct cooling on the boards and remove the extraneous drivers and retest.

I would not call an Octopus board with TMC2209 unusual. On the contrary, this is likely a well proven combination.

Klipper does not care if you have installed your motors, hotend, etc. on a CR10, an Ender 123 or whatever else.

This is by design: Klipper relies on a working connection between the host process on the SBC and the firmware on the MCU. If one of them stops responding for whatever reason, the other partner will go into an error state, which must be cleared with a RESTART / FIRMWARE_RESTART.

I will redesign the control box and PSU mounting to enable better airflow on the mainboard. Hopefully, this exercise saves someone else some headaches in the future. I will update this thread once the printer is fully assembled and tested with the new hardware.

Item arrived safely and in perfect condition and the quality of the print feels amazing!! Bought the print as a gift and already know they're gonna love it, and the little extra print and stickers absolutely made my day! Wonderful art, wonderful person!

Quality is amazing, love the paper, the colors, everything!

This is the piece that pulled me in from Instagram and I just had to have it. I might end up buying more sink-related prints in the future ??

This was an excellent class! It's definitely a mid- to advanced-level course for people already familiar with their medium and able to mix quickly. I learned so much about searching out colors, seeing cool vs. warm, how to decide on hues and values. As someone who never learned to paint still life (only draw in black and white), I found all of Alai's tips super helpful. It's fast-paced, but having the video to look back upon will be great as I revisit material and really try to absorb all this great tips. Plus, it was so much fun!

In my last 5 or 6 drawings, I have noticed a serious progression of swirls and circles. Pretty much every line I draw, somehow ends up in a swirl or a circle. Even the lines that are somewhat straight...eventually go round in the end. Every time I start a new drawing, I try and expand on what I did in the one before, and with this piece I wanted to push the swirls and circles as far as they could go. What could be swirlier than an octopus?

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