Y Cable Splitter

[Cortney Ruic]

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I have two cam pan cameras connected with a micro usb y cable which is connected to a 42 foot long micro USB to USB cable. The cam pan cameras draw more amps than the v3 so the short answer to your question is yes.

This setup mostly works fine, but there are times in the day where both Internet and phone services suffer; eg: the Internet speed drops considerably due to excessive packet loss and the phone service degrades to the point of uselessness.

I've sourced the problem to the splitter. When I remove the splitter and plug one of the boxes in, I get solid performance. I'm currently using a Cable Matters 2-way 5Mhz-2.4Ghz splitter. The cable coming from the wall is 6ft; the two cables coming from the splitter are 3ft. All are RG6.

As a suggestion, try talking to the cable company. I had some rather poor splitters I bought myself and they replaced them for free. The replacements were CommScope SV-2G Digital Splitters rated for 5-1002Mhz.

They are cheap and my local cable provider had no problem handing them out. What surprised me was the overall pickup in quality over the ones I had bought. My Digital TV, cable and VoIP signals improved substantially.

At a guess, I suspect that part of the improvement may have been impedance matching (75 ohms) among the devices. I didn't see this spec on the splitter you mentioned so I might investigate this further.

I am uncertain of the behavior of newer amplifiers today but years ago I had a connection so bad that I was literally calling the cable company out almost every few weeks to diagnose this (then unknown) problem. After much trouble, the root cause turned out to be a signal amplifier (properly working, mind you) that had to be removed from the equation entirely before this horrendous problem magically cleared up.

This is my first post, I need some help, advice, some clarity (obviously why I'm here haha). I am somewhat tech savy and I am mechanically inclined. But the coax dB and frequencies and interference and such is all new terms to me since I have never ventured into this type of stuff besides connecting equuipment or putting a splitter in to have a cable ran to a new location. I have the X1 package, 1 gig internet ect. I did double check my speed was 1gig on my account. I have the newest white XFI modem( wish it wasnt white). Was having some DVR cable box and internet issues, like dropped signals, blotchy speeds, cable box freezing up and such. When it was first added to my account a couple years ago, the tech did not go under the house to install the amplifier that usually the X1 platform get when signing up but he did say my signal from the pole to my house was 0bB, which I was told the ideal number. So I went under the house noticed a BUNCH of splitters. Probably outdated, some a lot older and some newer. Not sure, who cares. Got get rid of all them. I went out and bought a Antronix VRA900B cable amplifier "9 Port Bi-Directional Cable TV Splitter Signal Booster/Amplifier with Active Return Zero Signal Loss VoIP Telephone Bypass Port." Ran the cable from my outside directly inside through the brick, no splits, into the "in" of the cable amplifier. I ran the "power" from the wall outlet adapter to the the 15V 400mA port. Next I ran the coax cables (all pre-existing installed with home some thicker some not so thick) from the "output" ports to all my tvs boxes. My cable modem coax cable is newer (thicker coax), it is run directly from the amplifier to the coax wall outlet (like a electrical outlet but coax and attach the cable onto) which then a short 3' included comcast cable connects it to the modem. My ultimate goal here is to have a very good TV signal to all my cable boxes and have the best cable modem performance WiFi distance/speed/strength/reliability that is possible.

Do I have to connect my XFI modem to the "-4dB VolP output" (not worried about power outages due to having a generator) or would it be better/ stronger to one of the regular "output"? Looking for the better signal strength output.

The position of my modem is directly in the center of my home, about 5' off the floor on a desk. May sound dumb to ask but, does a cordless phone that is connected to the modem that is 3' away on the other side of the desk effect the WiFi? They only gave me a 3' phone cable to attach to modem for landline, but I dont use it regardless. Should I just remove it? Also there is a small 2 speaker system, on the desk with a subwoofer on the floor. Would that have any effect on the Wifi also?

Thank you for your reply. I knew they installed amplifiers, just didnt know the exact brand and model at the time until now. So I purchased one thinking they all worked the same. My mistake. That is why I'm here asking for assistance haha. I asked regarding the passive or the regular outputs for the modem because I have read (yes i know its the internet) that people have also put the connection in the regular output port and had good results. So I'll remove the home phone line for possible interference and I will also buy the correct amplifier for the system.

So DVR in port 1, longest run port 2 and so on. Got it. How about the XFi modem/router? I have 0db signal from pole to house when comcast came out and tested it. So 0db going into the amp. Is it better to put modem on output or VoLp? As I said I do have a generator so power loss isnt a concern. Wifi signal strength and speed is goals.

I'm going to be troubleshooting a PTP820S 1+1 system. Before heading out to the sites I want to make sure I get familiar with the way it should be wired. The only thing I am getting caught up on is the Protection Splitter cable.

The connector ends (SYS) of the management Y-splitters go into the MGT ports of the 820S radios. Between the PROT sockets of the Y-splitters you will connect a Protection Signaling Cable. The pinout for the Protection Signaling Cable is in the Installation Guide. From each MGT socket of the Y-splitters you'll have a cable coming down the tower for local management.

Last service rep worked for 2 days, installing a signal amp before the three way splitter, but signal still drops off the mini boxes and the main box at unpredictable times. Resetting the boxes by unplugging the power supply to force a reboot takes a long time to sometimes get a tv working.

This bad signal strength seems to be related to the extreme heat we are experiencing for the last couple of years. The house attic is over 100F, even with about half of the roof covered by solar panels.

I have cable and cable internet in my new apartment. The cable comes in to the water-heater closet from the roof and comes out an outlet in the wall of the closet, but there is a 4-way splitter in use before the cable gets to the outlet. It's not used to split the signal at all; the other three output connectors are empty.

Since I added cable internet service (and used a 2-way splitter after the outlet), my tv cable signal is a little fuzzy on some channels; and I was wondering if the cable splitter in the closet is to blame. Could I buy a simple connector to replace the 4-way splitter and see an improvement; or would it be the same, since the splitter isn't actually splitting the signal?

I believe it is splitting the signal, each output will have a specific loss associated. Some splitters will unevenly split the signal (commonly called a tap), which is handy to give a better signal to a longer run or to the cable modem. You can get a straight through connector at any HI store. That said, even these will have some loss of signal, just no where near as much as from a splitter.

If you need a splitter, a powered one (which typically amplifies and cleans the signal by filtering noise) would be a good idea. Otherwise, the straight through mentioned by @BMitch should at least help reduce noise.

A cable splitter WILL result in a degradation of the signal, even if the other ports are unused. One thing you can do is to add terminator caps to each unused port. They are supposed to reduce the degradation.

Note that cheaper cable splitters will actually have a different amount of signal loss for each port. You may see some numbers stamped next to the port itself, something like -2DB, -4DB, etc. This is the signal loss that that specific port will give.

Use a high quality cable wherever you can. Cheap cables are a serious source of signal loss. If you can hold the cable in your hands and see the signal change on your tv, then replace the cable with a good one!!!!!!! I have found that a quad shielded RG6 cable seems to be a good cost effective solution. If you are unable to find one in the correct length, then buy the cable by the foot and attach the cable ends yourself using the proper tools.

A 3.5 db signal loss represents approximately a 50% decrease in signal strength. Usually this isn't a problem, particularly with digital signals (it either gets through or it doesn't) as there is lots of excess signal strength in the feed. But, a second splitter in the chain can degrade the signal another 50%. I'd look at replacing the useless splitter with a straight through connector, which should help.

If I understand correctly, you are using a power divider which is designed to split the incoming signal four ways, and you have three of these with nothing connected. High frequency signals, such as cable TV, depend on uniform signal paths.

One analogy is if you imagine a creek that is split into four smaller creeks. The water ends is split into four parts, each with a quarter of the water, but all of them going the same speed (Though in reality, it'll reduce the speed a bit, so you get just under a quarter of the water-power in each of the small creeks). Now, in your situation, you have three of the creeks blocked. All of the water will end up going down the open creek, but it'll slow down the speed significantly (and make a bunch of nasty waves in the process).

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