Thisdatabase contains standard and manufacturer specific diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) that are used by somemanufacturers to identify vehicle problems. This OBD II code database is intended to be an easy to use app tobegin diagnosing vehicle repairs.
To find information about a specific trouble code enter it into the search bar. To reverse lookup codes type ina keyword into the search bar.
For example, entering "crankshaft" into the search bar will return trouble codes regarding crankshafts.
On board diagnostics trouble codes IDs (aka fault codes) are used to interpret information from the Engine Control Unit (ECU)and diagnose problems with a vehicle. All vehicles sold in North America after 1996 are required to use them.
Most vehicle manufacturers use standard and non standard codes. This database contains manufacturer specific codes.To narrow search to a specific make, select it with the dropdown box to the right of the search bar.
The "Check Engine" light is illuminated on my '00 Outback Wagon. I'd bought an OBD II reader from Harbor Freight (a cheapie). When I tried to read the code, the reader just said, "ERROR". I figured I was being punished for buying from Harbor Freight. I just bought another (nicer) code reader and it's giving me the same problem -- LCD just says "error". Symptoms are the same. When I plug in the code reader, it says "scanning" or "reading" or "getting info" or something like that....and a few seconds later, it simply says "error". Has anyone else seen this? Suggestions? The check engine light has been on for a few months now; tabs expire in a month. The Check Engine light is currently off, but history says it'll be on again soon (it's been cycling on and off every few times it's driven). Advice?
Try actually starting the car instead of just having it in the "on" position. I have a pretty nice scanner that works great on every Subaru (and other makes) but for some VERY odd reason I have to actually start my 00' OBW to get it to connect to my scanner.
I bought a scantool from Rallitek last year and installed it. It wouldn't update readings and wouldn't read the codes. I called the manufacturer and he said subaru does something different in updating the data coming out of the OBDII receptacle from "standard". He had me go into the parameters section and change one parameter. It's been working fine ever since.
Thanks for the link. I have never seen one lower than like 65 bucks! So it's good to know they can be had cheaper. The one in my car right now is an ebay one and it's worked great ever since I put it in!
By "now I get to go research", I simply meant that I'd never encountered this problem before. 5 minutes here, on Google, and on Ebay told me all I needed to know. Even found pics showing the location of the sensor. Looks like it's almost as easy to change as a spark plug.
One thing I learned from posts at various forums is that the car's computer can trigger this error code if the electrical contact between the sensor and the block is not good. Several people have reported success simply polishing the mating surfaces with emery cloth or a Brillo pad and re-attaching. Others report that the part tends to crack. I'm going to go make a visual inspection. If it looks intact but grungy, I may try the cleanup first, but for the price, it may be worthwhile to just get a new one. Car's at around 140K......
BTW, the code reader I successfully used last night came from Schucks (aka Checker, Kragen, and Murray's) and was on clearance online for $24. It's not the most advanced device -- it only has 2 buttons on it -- but it checks codes, displays the code ID and text, and lets you clear the codes. For $24, it's a nice addition to the toolbox if you own an OBDII car. Here's the link:
Select "Buy online, pickup today!" and see which stores around you have them. I just typed in a Seattle ZIP code, a Redmond (WA) ZIP code, and a Bay Area (San Mateo) ZIP code, and found readers available at all locations, so I don't think they're hard to find.
Is your Porsche check engine light on? When your Porsche has a problem, its On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) system will trigger a code so a technician can better identify the issue. If you have access to an OBD-II scanner, feel free to search our database so you can get a better idea what might be wrong with your vehicle.
If your search is coming up blank, it's likely your code is less common and should be checked out by one of our service technicians. Codes starting with "P1" are Porsche-specific, and should also be diagnosed by one of our certified Porsche specialists. Our team has access to the latest and most advanced Porsche diagnostic equipment, ensuring your vehicle is repaired accurately and to the latest Porsche standards.
For more information on Porsche OBD-II trouble codes, contact us today at
855-578-0255 to speak with one of our knowledgeable service teammates, or schedule a service appointment with our online form.
Is your Acura check engine light on? When your Acura has a problem, its On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) system will trigger a code so a technician can better identify the issue. If you have access to an OBD-II scanner, feel free to search our database so you can get a better idea what might be wrong with your vehicle.
If your search is coming up blank, it's likely your code is less common and should be checked out by one of our service technicians. Codes starting with "P1" are Acura-specific, and should also be diagnosed by one of our certified Acura specialists. Our team has access to the latest and most advanced Acura diagnostic equipment, ensuring your vehicle is repaired accurately and to the latest Acura standards.
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Once it's plugged in to the car (which should have the ignition turned to "ON"; I'm not sure if it actually needs to be running) and to my laptop, I communicate with it using a serial console session on Linux. This video has a tutorial on doing this. The command to launch the session is sudo screen /dev/ttyUSB0 38400, where 38400 is the baud rate.
Once in communication with the on-board computer (which can take patience as it can be kind of slow), there are numerous commands you can send; they are mainly in the form of one or two 2-digit hexadecimal numbers: a mode which may be followed by a PID.
I've shown this as separate lines, but in my session incoming data just keeps overwriting the first line. The numbers in square brackets thus get hidden by the prompt (>) character. The commands used follow what was mentioned in the previous paragraph. Each response begins by echoing the command entered, with 40* added. In the first response this echo is 41 01, for example. It is followed by 83, where apparently the 80* means the check engine light is on and the 3 indicates that there are 3 active trouble codes. I'm not sure of the meaning of the rest of that line. The second response, following the echo 43, shows what those trouble codes are: 04 41, 04 42, and 04 46. The third response, 44, simply acknowledges that the trouble codes have been cleared.
To interpret the trouble codes (e.g. 04 41, 04 42, and 04 46), consult the table below, then search online for the meaning of that code. For example, 04 42 becomes P0442, which is interpreted as "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Small Leak)" according to this forum post. Once you know what the problem is, you can search how to fix it yourself, or call around to get competitive quotes from different repair shops.
Mode 01 is a request to show current data and has many PIDs (e.g. 05 for engine coolant temperature) to clarify which data is sought; modes 03 and 04 can be called on their own (without a PID) because they don't need any clarification.
Another random vehicle tip that I'll finish this post with is that I used to have a lot of frustration from my car doors freezing shut in the winter. This winter I applied some synthetic grease (after checking that it was compatible with metal and rubber and wouldn't freeze) with a rag to the top inside edge of the doors (where they contact the weatherstripping). I haven't had problems with them freezing since then.
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