[Push Pull Download 100mb Pc
Kody Coste
Ok, let's go to your question: in Plastic you can work fully distributed, like Git, but you DO need a local server installed. Don't panic. It is a super light server that will eat only like 100MB RAM at most, only to serve you, listening locally.
Let me know if it is now clear for you. I mean, it is all about having a local server. It installs in seconds and you won't have to worry about it. And you don't need sql server or anything. It defaults to our storage called Jet, which is by far the fastest
It seems too complicated. I need to explain this to all my co-workers. Instead of just clicking checkout in SourceTree, they would need to study how DVCS actually works and manually perform setup for each repository they would work with. Gluon is one of things that give the idea to switch to PlasticSCM, but we have some people just in meddle between programmers and artists, who need brunching and have no idea about DVCS.
In general, i find that after GIT it is very difficult to start with PlasticSCM. If i work with GIT in centrallized manner - i don't need to know about DVCS at all, but at the same time i get all benefits from working with DVCS. And in Plastic, in order to get benefits of DVCS i need to learn how DVCS actually work.
1) Artists: in our experience they prefer to work centralized and using locking. Forget about push/pull, simply checkin. If that's your case, then Gluon directly connected to the central server is what they need. No need to setup local repos or anything.
Now, one remark: replicating "all branches" is very "git way of thinking" because Git needs to pull the entire history backwards. This is not mandatory (not even good) in Plastic. You can replicate one single branch, forget about the rest of the history, and have a much lighter clone. What I mean by that? I always work distributed, but I don't replicate/clone all the branches on our central server, just the ones I need to work, normally just the ones I'm on (created locally most of the time) + main.
Finally: we offer a FREE 1-hour session to anyone interested in learning more about Plastic, so if you feel like talking to us directly so we can help you starting up, and of course take feedback from your suggestions to add them to the roadmap, sign up here:
- When i use Local Name as autentication in my local repo - all replication works fine. But i get name of my local user in commints and i want to use my work user name, that are created in central PlasticSCM server.
In my case - i often need to switch brunches to review others people work. It would be nice to have a certain slice of branches downloaded automatically, changed in last XX days for example. But i don't mind downloading all repository )
SSL thing: I bet the problem is that you are not the "owner" of the localhost:8087. Weird because it should happen by default. Anyway: go to your local repo list, right click, repository server permissions, make sure you are the OWNER. Then you'll be the local admin.
Automatic replication: well, if you don't want to periodically sync using the sync view, you can always do some scripting to replicate every few minutes or half an hour. I see how important this is and we added to the roadmap the feature of keeping servers in sync... I mean, I just feel bad we don't have it yet :-S
Sorry for my english, it's not what i ment . I perfectly ok with manual push/pull using sync view. I ment, that instead of manually selecting branch to replicate - it would be nice if branches could be selected automatically by some filter - changed in last X days for example.
If you have the problem sorted by starting from scratch remember to setup the right authentication mode and get your user activated and set it as the Plastic SCM root user as well. Check this for further details: -scm-version-control-security-guide.shtml#Howtosetupanadministratoruser
So I have a cat6 cable of 80 meters. This cable has worked in the past. However, 2 years later I want to use that cable again and now it only gives me 95 mbps(tested with iperf3), it also gets recognized as a 100mbps link instead of a 1000mbps link. Image 1 provides a visual representation of how everything is laid out at this point.
The only thing I can think of right now is that the signal isn't strong enough by the time It reaches the pc. So I am still planning putting a switch in the middle of the 65 meter part of the cable. However I would rather not do this since this is outdoors and I don't have a good way of protecting the switch or the not interrupted cable from the elements.
However, there are still a few very interesting answers which you should definitely read if you stumble upon this post in search of a solution to your ethernet problems. Especially the answers from @Zac67 and @The Unix Janitor
Ethernet auto-negotiates using (low-frequency) link pulses. It does not check or train the cable[*1]. Link pulses are exchanged on the two 10/100 pairs and for 1 Gbit/s, all four pairs do an additional link check each.
Some Ethernet devices may fall back to 100 Mbit/s when 1000 Mbit/s has been negotiated but fails to link due to one or two missing pairs - 1 Gbit/s requires all four pairs, 10/100 Mbit/s only use two pairs. This is not by standard though and usually limited to Broadcom chips (they call it Ethernet@Wirespeed). So possibly, one of the pairs in the cable has failed.
Another possibility is that you've mispaired some contacts when terminating the cable. Cheap cable testers cannot detected split pairs as they only check for continuity and shorts. Double check the color codes inside the connectors - you can (but shouldn't) swap entire pairs or the wires within a pair but you must not swap wires across pairs.
While Ethernet over twisted pair is generally limited to 100 m, 90 m of those are required to use somewhat rigid, solid-core cable. Only 10 m are allowed to run over flexible, stranded (patch) cable. Anything beyond that may cause (more or less) errors or fail at any time.
Also, DIY cables for Gigabit Ethernet can very easily exceed the Category 5(e) specification margins and cause transmission errors. You need to make sure that you obey all twisting and pairing rules and generally do a neat job. Connectors must fit the cable (stranded or solid-core) and crimping tools must match the connectors. Buying decent, ready-made cables is very reasonable.
[*1] Notable exceptions to the rule are 2.5GBASE-T and 5GBASE-T aka Smartrate Ethernet. Smartrate ports do train the cable and then link at an appropriate speed between 10GBASE-T and 1000BASE-T, depending on their capability and the cable grade.
A better solution may be to use fiber and a fiber media converter at each end, as it negates the below and is future-proofed (i.e. 10Gbit), while also avoiding all the below since it's non-electrical, more resistant to water damage, easier to work with, and won't be affected by direct or nearby power surges, with the armored types being very hardy.
UPDATE:(Autonegotiation is a requirement for using 1000BASE-T according to Section 28D.5 Extensions required for Clause40 (1000BASE-T). At least the clock source has to be negotiated, as one endpoint must be master and the other endpoint must be slave." Failed autonegotiation means something is broken )
This cable has been outside in the weather. Unless you live in the Atacama Desert, rain water has had a chance to penetrate any slight break in the jacket, such as from a kink, and you could now have water at random locations inside the jacket surrounding the insulated conductors. The water has a higher capacitance than the air that is normally inside the jacket, and this can round-off your square waves and smear your signals enough that the cable won't work at 1000 Mbps.
Do you have access to a vacuum chamber? If you could roll up the cable, stick it in the chamber and maintain a vacuum of about 1 torr or less for a couple of hours, any water inside the jacket should evaporate. If you note a prolonged pause in the pressure drop at 4-5 torr, this is indicative of water leaving the cable, and you should continue pumping down until the pressure remains at or below 1 torr.
You should replace the known-broken 65m cable with new wire rated for outdoor use. You may also want to consider replacing this run with optical fiber, especially if the connection is between buildings.
Sometimes people use solid core because its marginally cheaper, and is a lot easier to put into plugs before crimping. This is false economy, and the only time you should use solid core is when the cable is inside a wall/ceiling and will never move.
Your best option is to replace the one run of solid core cat6 with TWO runs of stranded core cat6. Why two? One for now and one for spare - its only very little more work to run two cables over one cable.
If the run is exposed to weather, you should take the time to run it all inside conduit. It is possible to pull two cat6 down a common garden hose provided you use a draw wire, but three is impossible for more than a few metres. Or you can purchase cat6 externally-rated cable, which has an additional casing and a grease fill. It is horridly messy stuff to terminate though.
Don't use crimped ends. Period. Won't certify (yes, there are exceptions to every rule, depending on length, and actual RF/ Radiation interference) CAT6/ CAT6a. Use keystone jack's, and patch cables to your desired/ required bandwidth.
I guess a call the ISP might be in order telling them what you discovered and how it resulted in a change of how the router works.. but many ISP's don't handle any problems with private routers... Might have to ask for the modem/router to be replaced?
Also check the network adapter on that upstairs PC. Make sure it is set to 1000Mbps. However not all 'older' PC's will have GB ethernet, so if it is old you might not be able to do anything other than buy a USB or PCI card that is GB.
A few possibilities arise. First of course is a damaged router. LAN ports can only be 100Mbps. Second would be that the cables in LAN 1 and 2 are either CAT 5 or damaged possibly. Should be easy to check these two, disconnect the modem to router cable and use it in LAN 1 to a PC or switch. If it shows 1000Mbps, then the old cable was bad. If not, the next possibility is what is at the end of those cables are set to 100Mbps? Check settings on the properties of the network adapters.
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