Track Cleaning Car

[Astryd Boschee]

Manypeople use IPA (Isopropyl alcohol) which is probably the best solvent for track and wheel cleaning. A slightly less effective cleaner (because it's not so pure) which I use and is a bit cheaper easier to obtain, is methylated spirits.

If you have got really deep pockets, then look at the CMX Track Cleaner. I've never seen a bad or lack lustre review of this product. If your pockets are not so deep then have a look at this similar competitive product.

Quite liked the Gaugemaster 6M60 wheel brush, but if you have a long loco, or a steam with tender, you have to purchase two and put them together, more expensive, I was using a track rubber with a cleaner afterwords and a vacuum cleaner with small brush on the lowest setting, but read that this could damage points, lifting some spring, but mine seem fine.

I have an 9' x 9' x 18" shelf layout around my office. I use lint free nail polish remover pads and IPA (easy to by via Amazon) or 'Track Magic' cleaner. Always surprised how much black gunk Comes off.

The problem with the CMX is it's sooooo heavy, you need two locos to move it. The old Tri-ang track cleaning car is still the best for the job wagon wise. IPA or surgical spirit are best for track cleaning.

Hi ,,,,I've only ever used methylated spirits and find its good enough ,,,but I do clean the tracks regular ,and I can honestly say that I rarely clean the loco wheels and I run dcc which they say needs a higher level of cleanliness,,,

When it comes to the crunch track cleaning is easy. A bottle of IPA and some lint free clothe. After all it's just two thin strips of metal you need to keep shiny. Don't forget the wheels especially the backs of them. Done. ?

Thanks Chrissaf, I'll be getting one of these, Been looking for something like this for ages! Been reluctant on getting the cmx because of price and availability. For the price of the cmx I could get a nice loco!

At the risk of being shouted at, i find track cleaning, a bit of a myth. I use mt Dapol hoover cleaner, before i run dc, or DCC, having one for both layouts. The amount they pick up, simply as Hoovers, beggars belief. Thats it. I dont actually clean track at all, other than 3 rail, with a jiffy green scourer. My trains still perform, as they should. They are no slower than when track new, and installed. john

I only clean mine once in a blue moon. Occasionally if a loco falters at a certain spot I give that spot a quick clean, that's all. I think the most important thing is clean wheels and no plastic wheels. About once a year I run the Sharge round and then the Dapol vacuum.

Is yours the earlier version with the flow control on the side. Mine is based on the revised smaller tank (later version) with the flow control on the top of the tank. As per image below. Not sure, but I think the tank may be the N gauge version tank but on a 00 chassis. It is certainly the same style as the N gauge tank, if not the actual same tank used.

Recently I've been using that to clean locomotive wheels and track (just the tops of the railhead, don't want to remove any paint and weathering). I feel it cleans better than alcohol, including the 90% isopropyl alcohol.

It seems these would be petroleum spirits, which is what mineral spirits is. A petroleum-based paint thinner. I've used it to remove some gunky tar-like substance from my wife's washing machine. Dad would use some gasoline dabbed on a rag to remove gunks of tar from the car.

Not trying to be all science-ish (I majored in music in college). But this is an interesting concept. If I rememeber past conversations, isopropyl alcohol is NOT a nonpolar hydrocarbon. It will clean, but it requires more 'scrubbing' than mineral spirits.

We currently use 2 cars with masoite followed by the abrasive roller with magnet. We have a tank car with the pad wetted with cleaner. We are in a museum and the trains run a lot. We put a counter on our track to just see how much they run when we are not there. In a 3 week period where the museum is open 6 days a week. The train ran 26.88 hours for a total of 10.65 miles just on one engine. We also run metal wheels only. Even with all we do track cleaning is a major chore. Just trying to see what other people are using to access our situation.

Have you tried applying graphite to the rails? Since I started doing that, I've only had to clean my track twice in about 3 years. Before that, it was every time I ran a train (about every 4-6 weeks).

Polar solvents encourage the buildup of metal oxides on the track more quickly (the "black gunk" we're all familiar with). Non-polar solvents tend to discourage micro-arcing, so the buildup of metal oxides on the track takes longer.

A very thin layer of graphite also inhibits micro-arcing and improves electrical conductivity. But the graphite needs to be very lightly applied. If you can *see* the graphite, you've applied too much and it will cause a loss of traction and inhibit conductivity.

I have the electronic car from Miniatronics and the brass tank car from Tony's train place.........I use 91% alcohol.........I have done this for the past 8 years on my 10 year old layout and have yet to have any problems.

Polar solvents encourage the buildup of metal oxides on the track more quickly (the "black gunk" we're all familiar with). non-polar solvents tend to discourage micro-arcing, so the buildup of metal oxides on the track takes longer.

I only clean my track a couple of times a year, or when trains start acting up. Just beacuse the track doesn't look dirty, doesn't mean it isn't. There can still be a layer of dust/grime that accumulates over time. When this happens. The top of the rails are dull with a haze, as opposed to shiny.

For my Fastrack layout, I just use the original Lionel Track Cleaning Car and apply a few drops of Lionel Track Clean to the rotating circular sponge pad. I usually make 2 passes, changing out the circular sponge after the first pass. Fastrack is fairly easy to keep clean and my layout requires cleaning only twice a year, about every 6 months.

You want a solvent with a low dielectric constant, such as those in the light green section in the chart above. Solvents in the other sections will clean track, however your track will stay cleaner longer if you use a non-polar solvent. In the past I always used isopropyl alcohol. I have since switched to mineral spirits.

I use alcohol and do it by hand and let it dry a while. But I do have a vintage Lionel Track Cleaner that I use more often than I care to admit. It really doesn't do the worst. Plus you are still running trains! With it I use bulk generic window cleaner, the blue stuff. Soak the sponge a bit and let it go a few passes.

I use the Centerline Products car with the weighted roller. Soak the roller and let her rip. Walk ahead and keep the roller soaked. CDC evaporates quickly. I clean the track twice per year and I pull my rolling stock behind the engine. Lots of gop gets attached to your trucks and this cleans them sparkling clean. In addition I fold a paper towel and spray with CRC then wipe the tracks off.

Seems like most of the common cleaning methods are not that good. Not to say they don't sort of work, but you can do a lot better. No matter what you use, always finish with mineral spirits and a little graphite on the rails. You won't be sorry.

It's best described in the article I have the link to above. But basically at a 45 angle on the inside of the rail. One quick swipe, if you see graphite, you've applied too much. I use a 4B graphite stick from an art store or Amazon.

I have a 8x10 Fasttrack layout in my basement. I run DCS and Legacy and find that absolutely clean track is essential for smooth and responsive operations. After extensive reading, I have settled on CRC (plastic safe) cleaner and use a disposable swiffer cloth / pad on a handle to reach all of my rails. Works great and after a cleaning the cloths are filled with oxidized grime, my rails are shiny, and everything works well. MY PROBLEM - I find that I need to repeat this process MONTHLY to keep my rails clean, regardless of how much I am running my engines. After each cleaning (monthly) the cloths are filled with black grime. MY QUESTION:

C) Should I call the EPA about the possibly hyper-oxidative air quality in my basement? (It is an unfinished basement in a "pre-war" house but I keep the humidity below 45% without any other air refinement)

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