Saab 9-3 Window Not Working

[Prospero Barela]

Hardto start yesterday,drivers side window,power door locks wont work,either by buttons on both doors or on key fob.Other windows work! Replaced Battery checked door lock fuse,still no drivers side window or door locks.

I have the same problem. it occured about 6 months ago and I took the fuses out and they were all good, but the next day it started working. I have the problem again and so far haven't figured it out.

Im having the same problem on my nissan altima 2007 , power windows don't work (all doors) power locks dont work (all doors) the blinkers dont work , hazard lights do work, i re placed the bcm relay and the power locks work and blinkers not the windows but after a day the relay burns

The most likely cause of your problem is the master switch in the drivers door. The windows and the locks are on two separate circuits. The only part that these two have in common is the master switch.

Of course it is also possible that the wiring harness between the driver side door and cowl is corroded and that some of the pins are to corroded or even broken off and do not make contact. Also check that you have good and tight positive and negative battery cable connection to the battery posts. Wiggle the cables a bit. If it still does not work, pull out and put back fuse #8 and circuit breaker/relay #68. Try wiggling relay #68 it might just not make good contact or is stuck.

I thought that I heard this hear before but you disconnect the battery terminals and hold them together for 15 or more minutes then reconnect them. This has worked for me before but again I am having the problem and it's not working . Need help fixing it.

So was replacing 3 of 4 blown out Speakers and left key on on last one opps dead battery.... After jump start no Driver window or Pwr locks.. recharged battery and Pulled driver door apart again rechecked everything, did the fuse check..all good still no locks or window... Went on the old interweb found this page and did the Pwr cable thing for 30min. took a 5 mile drive and when I got back and put in park bam door locks working and Driver window.. I love the H3 but I've had so many electrical problems with it (heater/AC blower, 3 speakers, harness for trailer, TPM sensor, head and tail light issues every 6 months) I think im done with GM

I removed control panel on the drivers door with the switches for locks and windows. took it in the house thinking that there was maybe a condensation/corrosion problem. first thing I did was put the wives hair dryer on it and after a few seconds heard a couple of clicks which I think where stuck internal buttons underneath the push/pull switches. went and hooked it up, perfect no problem.

Prior to this I tried everything, resetting, unhooking battery, fuses, unplugging/plugging back in, checked wires in door jam, the only thing I didn't get to was the the transmission shifter switch which was next on the list.

After disconnecting the battery, touching the terminals and checking the fuses with no luck, I tried this suggestion and it worked! I removed the unit from the door panel and removed the circuit board from its housing. After about 30 seconds of hair blower heat I heard a click. I reinstalled and my windows and locks worked once again. My issue started with a dead battery, so I don't know why this worked, but it did. Thanks Duane for your input!

I am actually blown away by this, I didn't think would work, but brought the whole housing unit inside from my 06 H3 and used the hair dryer for a few minutes, took it back out and plugged it and it works again!

I recently had the problem with the driver window and power locks not working. Happened after battery died. Tried everything-unhooked cables for 45 minutes, clicked them together, replaced battery, checked lock default options, unplugged control unit, checked connections and wiring. Still nothing. Finally tried taking it apart, making sure the connections were alright and buttons worked, then heated it with a heat gun for a few minutes. Didn't hear any popping noises but once I put it back together and back in...IT WORKED!!! Didn't expect it to...but it did. Amazing. Saves a lot of money I would have had to pay to get it fixed. ;)

After battery went dead on my H3 (dash cam drained it), driver's window and door locks were inop after I re-charged the batt. Checked fuse #8 and relay 68. Both were good. Popped out driver's door switch assembly (used thin screw driver on forward and rear edges-- clips are in those locations). Removed blue and white wire harnesses and heated switch assembly with a hair dryer for a few minutes. Heard two loud clicks. Reassembled harnesses, turned key on and all systems were operational.

Lock 1 (default): On vehicles with an automatic transmission, this mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK (P) and unlocks all of the doors when the vehicle is shifted into PARK (P). On vehicles with a manual transmission, this mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle speed is greater than 15 mph (24 km/h) and unlocks all of the doors when the key is removed from the ignition.

Lock 2: On vehicles with an automatic transmission, this mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK (P) and unlocks the driver's door when the vehicle is shifted into PARK (P). On vehicles with a manual transmission, this mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle speed is greater than 15 mph (24 km/h) and unlocks the driver's door when the key is removed from the ignition.

Lock 3: On vehicles with an automatic transmission, this mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK (P). The doors will not automatically unlock. On vehicles with a manual transmission, this mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle speed is greater than 15 mph (24 km/h). The doors will not automatically unlock.

this window problem just happened to me, It all started with doing a brake job, new calipers, rotors and . While I was working on the truck, I left the radio on and listened to my favorite music, for about a hour, . After finishing job I was ready to go for a test ride,.

The driver side window was stuck down, and all door locks would not work, all the other windows went up and down as they should, but still no drivers window, or door locks,! I checked all fuses, even #68 relay but still could not find problem, I drove 18 miles in 30 degree weather at nite, got home and was very confused with this truck.! The next day I took master control unit out of door disconnected all wires, cleaned pins etc, and put back together, also I took off positive and negative battery cables off battery, cleaned them , put them back on and tightened good, Well , I turned the key and everything worked,??? all good. windows worked, door locks worked, very happy with out come.

I went to dealer as this still did not make any sense to me, he told me that when the battery starts to get low in voltage the computers will sense some thing wrong and will start shutting down non-essential items in truck, drivers window and locks first, then other things like turn signals, driving lights, heater motor,!!! Man this truck has had me pulling my hair out, But still love my H3.

My girl friend has a H3 also, now I need to tackle her problem, no heater motor, no heat or AC. what next. I had this problem on mine so I know what it is, still a pain, and all computer related . Good luck all and good nite.

then pulled panel out again and brought it inside and was looking at how it works and noticed the rubber mat was sort of flapping a bit at one end. i pulled it right off and had a look. because the mat wasn't on properly the window and button relays were missing their target. put it back securely and put it all back together, put it back in the car and bam!! working!

I read all of the other advice and tips around this issue and had to complete all of the above to resolve my exact same issue after replacing a dead battery. Problem was finally corrected after a driving around for several errands and restarting the vehicle about 4 times over a 5 hour period.

Did all of the above 3 times on my 07. Finally I pulled the door switch and took it apart ( 4 screws ) cleaned the contacts and re assembled. ( all very easy. Just be careful when taking it apart ) Now I don't know if it was the cleaning of the switch or the new battery ( the old one had good power but was 6 yrs old so I figured what the heck ) Either way the only thing I did differently with the battery on my 3rd attempt was to leave it disconnected longer, appox 45 mins while I ate dinner. When I went back and connected it, everything worked. Thanks to all the posters for your assistance. Great info and it saved my cheap !@# a trip to the dealer. :)

I Have had this problem before and if you have any aftermarket remote car start it scrambles the bcd (body control module) and whenever you disconnect the battery it will do this also as it causes the computer to get confused and stuck in between modes eventually the car will go back to normal its just a matter of time

H3 left a door open over night ran battery down, boosted and then the problem with the driver door and power locks started. Was told when battery goes low it sets off the problem just need to reset it by unplugging the battery for 5min. Give it time it does reset! Not worth being told you need a new switch $250.00 :) hope it helps!

The first fix to try when ever any part of your window and door control panel or any electrical function for that matter does not work or is not working correctly is to disconnect the negitive battery cable, that's the non hot side. Leave the hot side connected. By leaving the negative cable disconnected over night the computers will reset and solve a lot of electrical issues. If nothing else this give you a potential very easy fix and has worked for me on many make of cars and trucks.

Driving the car, stopping and waiting for several minutes and shifting the gear lever in and out of gear along with a fully carged battery will solve it most of the time. If not, then it may be the switch indicated in the other postings.

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