Engine YSE8

[Kryspen]

Haven post here for while ( working away blues), but.

It looks like my YSE8 is on the way to go. Other day using full power (no sail) i can only managed 4.5 knots on calm water.

My option is either rebuild with parts from the US or put new (recon ) engine.

My finances in some ay are limited. I was thinking of putting industrial 2 cyl Kubota engine in and in some way marinise. Not sure about the transmission if i do that ( engine comes without transmission).

Would appreciate your advice.

Kryspen

[Admin]

Ummm… I suppose you have checked the prop for growth and the hull too?  Silly of me of course but it’s might be worth my asking?

 

Colin

Moonlight Lady

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[John Kowalik]

Hi Colin.
They all clean.

Sent from Type Mail

[Graeme Lock]

Does it start right away? If it does, compression is probably not the
issue, which may mean it's not a total rebuild. Will it rev right up
in neutral?

Cheeers, Graeme

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[John Kowalik]

Hi Graeme, yes it's start without any problems, revs also working fine.
I would love to check the timing and check valve clearance , but according to manual, i have to line up the markings on fly wheel. Unfortunately the fly wheel is inside casing.
Going to check compression with gauge but not sure what reading i should expect.
And finally, what is the normal speed under engine for yse8?.
Hmmm. 😐

Sent from Type Mail

[Graeme Lock]

Hi John;

From looking at an old manual, YSE8 max output is at 3200rpm, but
would be a bit less given the age. Presumably this is a change from
what the engine managed previously?

Cheers, Graeme

On 21/05/2015, John Kowalik <johnko...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi Graeme, yes it's start without any problems, revs also working fine.
> I would love to check the timing and check valve clearance , but according
> to manual, i have to line up the markings on fly wheel. Unfortunately the
> fly wheel is inside casing.
> Going to check compression with gauge but not sure what reading i should
> expect.
> And finally, what is the normal speed under engine for yse8?.
> Hmmm. 😐
>
> Sent from Type Mail
>
>
>

> On 21 May 2015 1:39 pm, at 1:39 pm, Graeme Lock <graem...@gmail.com>

[John Kowalik]

It was pushing 5.5 knot. I have also noticed that i have some oil residue coming out on start-up. This is why i was thinking that it's losing some compression.

Sent from Type Mail

[brett]

If it starts and runs I wouldn't be writing it off just yet.

Check the inside of the exhaust mixing elbow,(easier said than done) these rust/coke up and become obstructed which can have a huge effect on output in a YSE8.

it's been my experience to think simple with these engines before getting into timing, valve clearances etc.

 

Brett

[John Kowalik]

Good advice Brent, thank you (looking like i have to go a bigger hummer 😁😡😱).

Sent from Type Mail

[michael]

I can agree with Brent. I had a YSE8 and over a short time it lost a lot of power. Started and ran fine in neutral. I pulled the mixing elbow and found it almost completely blocked. Spend quite a few hours with a rotary file and a drill and ground out the carbon build up. Was like a new engine when put back together.

Hope this fixes your problem.

Michael

[Maeling]

Brett/Kryspen, that's the one I would be going with - exhaust constricted at the elbow. (possibly but happens insidiously slowly.

Geoff Raebel

[John Kowalik]

Ok, so tricky question, mixing elbow. The one which is coming for exhaust to water box scraper, yes?

Sent from Type Mail

[michael]

The exhaust section where the water is injected. What happens is that there is a sudden cooling of the exhaust gases, and this causes the carbon to solidify on the inside of the pipe. Over time it builds up an restricts the flow of gases.

[John Kowalik]

Michael, thank you. I'm going to pull it out and check.

Sent from Type Mail

[Graeme Lock]

An article in Cruising Helmsman some time ago explained that the black stuff is largely alkaline salts from seawater. An overnight soak in acid will dissolve most of it, and make clearing the elbow out much easier.

 

Cheers, Graeme

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[Tardis29]

Is something like vinegar strong enough or would it need to be diluted sulphuric acid?

Regards,
Paul

On 23/05/15 10:59 AM, Graeme Lock wrote:

An article in Cruising Helmsman some time ago explained that the black stuff is largely alkaline salts from seawater. An overnight soak in acid will dissolve most of it, and make clearing the elbow out much easier.

 

Cheers, Graeme

On 23 May 2015 at 09:20, John Kowalik <johnko...@gmail.com> wrote:

Michael, thank you. I'm going to pull it out and check.

Sent from Type Mail

On 22 May 2015, at 9:10 pm, michael <mcb...@fastrac.net.au> wrote:

The exhaust section where the water is injected. What happens is that there is a sudden cooling of the exhaust gases, and this causes the carbon to solidify on the inside of the pipe. Over time it builds up an restricts the flow of gases.

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[John Kowalik]

Went right into it. Taken elbow off and there is some residue of build up. Took off also top cover of the engine (left of fuel tank). This did allow me to look at the liner. Found lots of calcium looking build up. Hope vinegar can help dissolve some. Possibly more flushing the system with something stronger if vinegar won't help. Found also spring loaded valve. Possibly pressure water reliese full of calcium. Big cleanup.
Next checking valve clearance and adjustment.
Have to shop for right acid to replace vinegar.

Sent from Type Mail

[Graeme Lock]

 Don't know, but if I manage to find the mag, I'll tell you what the author used.

 

I guess you could start with vinegar. Best to work your way up so you still have the elbow left in the morning!

[Graeme Lock]

John that spring loaed valve is probably the thermostat. Good to have it clear of salt build up. A good 24 hour soak in vinegar will work wonders for the cooling.

[John Kowalik]

Acid did make it. Fill cooling chamber with acid, left for while, flush with water. Done this 2 times and used half litre of acid. Clean as. Adjusted valves and fuel pump.
Now she run as swiss watch.
Next i have to figure out alternator wiring. She's not charging.
Looks like i have to do the acid bath at least every 2 years.
Dam wiring, black magic for me.

Sent from Type Mail

[Maeling]

google on workshop manual for a YSE8 and try to get a wiring or circuit diagram.  It is a good starting point.

Geoff Raebel

[John Kowalik]

I have found the schematic, unfortunately there is no colour code included. Bummer.

Sent from Type Mail

[graem...@gmail.com]

Good for you John, a great relief I'm sure

Cheers, Graeme

Sent from my iPhone

[Tardis29]

HI John,

here is a link to a manual for Yanmar YSM-8/12. 

http://www.devill.net/Documentation/Yanmar/YSM-8-12.pdf

The YSM is close enough to the YSE & YSB for the manual to be useful. The wiring diagram is on page 138 (11-2) and chapter 11 includes details for troubleshooting. If you don't have any output from the alternator, it will probably come down to either blown diodes or a blown regulator. This can be caused by running the engine with the battery switch OFF.

Regards,
Paul

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[Tardis29]

Here is a better link.

https://www.hisse-et-oh.com/system/assets/000/104/538/original/Service_Manuel_YSM_8_et_YSM12.pdf

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[John Kowalik]

Hi Paul.

Thank you very much, greatly appreciated.

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Regards - John

[Djarraluda]

For reference, I did a full engine out rebuild some years ago.  OK, to be precise the Pittwater Yanmar dealer took the keys and did everything for me and returned her to the morning a week later.

Half the price of any engine replacement and runs a sweet as ever since.

The give-away for me was blowing oil out of the engine breather.  It included new liner and piston, bearings and valves.

I need to do the exhaust elbow now after 9 or 10 years, because I have not done it in between.  2 years would be rather extreme, but then usage and water temp will affect that.  I was told that you need at least 10 min at a good throttle (>2/3rd revs) every use because this blows the crud out.

Roger

[John Kowalik]

Usually I run engine for about an hour every week, even on mooring.
My elbow was obstruct as well as build up in cooling system. After cleanup using acid together with tapes and fuel pump adjustment, she run sweet with some grunt.

Sent from Type Mail

[Djarraluda]

Running the engine within, or little load will certainly increase the build-up in the exhaust elbow.  Also it is well known to lead to glazing of the bore, which will damage the rings etc and accelerate the need for a rebuild.

It is best to take the boat for a run, put some load on the engine.  This also helps keep the prop clear of fouling

[John Kowalik]

Good advice, thank you 😀.

Sent from Type Mail

[Graeme Lock]

I agree - everything I read about these little yacht diesels indicates
they almost never die of over-work, but almost always from under-use.

I've seen it recommended in many places that, as much as you can, give
it a good flogging for long enough to warm it right up every time you
use it.

Cheers, Graeme

On 28/05/2015, John Kowalik <johnko...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Good advice, thank you 😀.
>
> Sent from Type Mail
>
>
>

> On 28 May 2015 4:58 pm, at 4:58 pm, Djarraluda <landr_b...@hotmail.com>

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[Maeling]

To stir up my engine I do one of two things.  Just to scrape the bores, I hit the starter and shut down.

More usually I start up and run at fast idle until the mooring is let go - then chug along at a good clip for 10 minutes or so to get her good and hot.

Change the oil each 12 months regardless of usage to remove and moisture in the oil.

The old man had to repower a railmotor.  The client specified two engines for reliability.  It was a grossly unreliable set up until one engine broke down.  They had to run it that way for a month due to other circumstances. The one engine at full load ran perfectly. After that they ran one engine at a time. A diesel needs to work!

Geoff Raebel

Geoff Raebel

[John Kowalik]

Once a we at full load while on mooring for an hr. Charging battery same time.

Sent from Type Mail

[danieledelcastillo]

Hi I read all this thread and I found it very interesting... i think i will need to replace my mixing elbow as my YSE 8 doesn't have a lot of power even if it start perfectly, runs super smooth, no strange smokes etc etc, it's perfect just not a lot of power.
I will try to remove it and put it in vinegar but can anyone tell me where i can find a new one? Possible stainless steel? It's better to replace with a new one as i think that all the effort for trying and clean the current one is not worth it :)
Anyway suggestion on where i can find the spare?
By the way i am in Umina Beach :)

Thanks

Daniele

[Lazy Daze Laz]

I got one from here:

http://www.minardsdiesel.com/

[Graeme Lock]

Daniele;

Before you do anything expensive, have you checked that your prop is free of barnacles etc? It doesn't take very much growth to radically reduce your speed even though the engine is running well.

Cheers, Graeme

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[danieledelcastillo]

Thanks to everyone for the inputs.
Today i brought the boat back from the marina after being cleaned and antifouled.
The engine goes the same as before. Boat seems a little bit faster but this time i had installed a new log meter on to check speed TTW compare to SOG and it was quite a surprise to discover the cause of all my troubles.

Basically my speed TTW was 4.1 knots with throttle in the middle of his power but even if i was in the 5th hour of the tide i still had 3.2 knots of current...
So basically here the current is strong and that's what "kills" my engine power in a lot of situation...
anyway i will try and use Liqui Moly diesel intake decarb as suggested by John and see how it goes.

Thanks

D:

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[danieledelcastillo]

yesterday they answered me from a spar part seller here in Sydney and they asked me 320 dollars for the mixing elbow, they were very kind but oh my god 320 dollars for a mixing elbow?
I found a guy on ebay US that will send me a custom made stainless steel one for 160 australian dollars shipped... I think i will go with that one.

D.

[Interlude]

Regards to replacing mixing elbow.
Not only do you need the mixing elbow, you also need the left hand to right hand thread adaptor...and gaskets. All up yanmar charges close to 500 dollars.

[danieledelcastillo]

Thanks Interlude,
i think i will keep everything on hold for now :)

D:

[Graeme Lock]

Danielle;

This guy is selling 304SS elbows for Yanmar 2GM engines at what looks like an OK price. Might be worth enquiring if he also does them for YSE8.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Mixing-Elbow-fits-Yanmar-2GM-3GM-3HM-128370-13530-2gm20-/351800253571

Cheers, Graeme

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[danieledelcastillo]

Hi Graeme,
thanks they are the one i contacted who gave me the reasonable quote I wrote in a previous post :)

Thanks for that anyway!

Daniele

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