Stopping the Engine - Yanmar 2GM20
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Colin from Moonlight Lady
Jun 14, 2010, 11:48:14 PM6/14/10
to Compass Yacht Group
Hi All,
Our 2GM20 engine has been getting harder to stop. The problem is that
the lever actually ON the engine is getting stiff - it's not the cable
from the lever on the engine to the stop lever on the controls.
I see no way to service it. Nor any obvious way to disassemble to
clean & lube.
Does anyone have any ideas please? I'm a bit cautious as there could
be settings I might disturb in this area. It's already stiff enough
as to be almost impossible to stop by pulling the cable - we have to
stop at the engine.
Thanks!
Colin
Moonlight Lady C29
Our 2GM20 engine has been getting harder to stop. The problem is that
the lever actually ON the engine is getting stiff - it's not the cable
from the lever on the engine to the stop lever on the controls.
I see no way to service it. Nor any obvious way to disassemble to
clean & lube.
Does anyone have any ideas please? I'm a bit cautious as there could
be settings I might disturb in this area. It's already stiff enough
as to be almost impossible to stop by pulling the cable - we have to
stop at the engine.
Thanks!
Colin
Moonlight Lady C29
pdud...@optusnet.com.au
Jun 15, 2010, 2:14:56 AM6/15/10
to compass-y...@googlegroups.com
Hi Colin
I am assuming that the throttle control is the one that is stiff.
I have not tried this but someone said you can open the 'decompression'
lever to stop the engine. It makes sense. Just wait until the engine has
stopped totally before you let it go. Paul Solace
Hi All,
Thanks!
Colin
Moonlight Lady C29
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Colin from Moonlight Lady
Jun 15, 2010, 2:30:24 AM6/15/10
to Compass Yacht Group
Thanks Paul,
I CAN stop it - it's just hard to pull the cable out now. It is NOT
the cable - it is inside the engine and I would not have thought that
it should be hard to access to service - I just can't see how. I have
a Manual but I can't make sense of the schematics and there is no
mention of servicing this aspect anywhere.
Colin
I CAN stop it - it's just hard to pull the cable out now. It is NOT
the cable - it is inside the engine and I would not have thought that
it should be hard to access to service - I just can't see how. I have
a Manual but I can't make sense of the schematics and there is no
mention of servicing this aspect anywhere.
Colin
pdud...@optusnet.com.au
Jun 15, 2010, 2:41:24 AM6/15/10
to compass-y...@googlegroups.com
I just pull the Tappet Cover off. Inside is a simple little thing that turns
and stops the valve from closing. Mine is a C28 with a single cylinder
Yanmar SB8. With 2 cylinders it may be a rod with 2 levers instead of one to
stop 2 valves from closing. I don't have a wire because I stop by cutting
the fuel. I always start it with the 'crank' and use the Decompression
lever. Paul
and stops the valve from closing. Mine is a C28 with a single cylinder
Yanmar SB8. With 2 cylinders it may be a rod with 2 levers instead of one to
stop 2 valves from closing. I don't have a wire because I stop by cutting
the fuel. I always start it with the 'crank' and use the Decompression
lever. Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: compass-y...@googlegroups.com
[mailto:compass-y...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Colin from
Moonlight Lady
Sent: Tuesday, 15 June 2010 4:30 PM
To: Compass Yacht Group
Thanks Paul,
Colin
--
Colin from Moonlight Lady
Jun 15, 2010, 2:59:33 AM6/15/10
to Compass Yacht Group
That sounds like decompression Paul. I think that the lever I am
referring to stops the flow of fuel and is no-where near the valves.
No sure what the effects of stopping by decompressing might be. I
think I'd be a bit wary of that...
Wish I could start with the crank handle! I tried it once and nearly
put both feet through the hull and my leg bones through my pelvis. The
2GM20 is a bit bigger I fear.
Colin
referring to stops the flow of fuel and is no-where near the valves.
No sure what the effects of stopping by decompressing might be. I
think I'd be a bit wary of that...
Wish I could start with the crank handle! I tried it once and nearly
put both feet through the hull and my leg bones through my pelvis. The
2GM20 is a bit bigger I fear.
Colin
pdud...@optusnet.com.au
Jun 15, 2010, 3:07:42 AM6/15/10
to compass-y...@googlegroups.com
I think that will be the 'Governor' and something for the experts. Sorry I
cant help.
Paul
cant help.
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: compass-y...@googlegroups.com
[mailto:compass-y...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Colin from
Moonlight Lady
Sent: Tuesday, 15 June 2010 5:00 PM
To: Compass Yacht Group
Subject: Re: Stopping the Engine - Yanmar 2GM20
Colin
--
Maeling
Jun 15, 2010, 8:21:57 AM6/15/10
to Compass Yacht Group
Okay, the governor is attached to the RACK. The rack is a bar of gear
teeth joining both injector pistons in the injector pump. When the
governor senses load like you might have pushed the throttle open, it
pulls the rack along which rotates the pistons allowing more fuel to
get pumped. Opposite, when you use the stop control, the rack rotates
the pistons cutting off the fuel. Fire needs Oxygen, Heat and FUEL.
I don't know the 2GM20 set up but the two things I can suggest are
a. Distillate is an excellent penetrating fluid. Can you put some in
an oilcan - I can give you a tiny one, and lubricate anything that
will alleviate the problem
b. Backup plan - I have used a diesel pumproom at South Hurstville -
Gemini Diesel near West St. They could overhaul the pump if it is not
in the linkages - could cost a couple of hundred or so.
Geoff Raebel
teeth joining both injector pistons in the injector pump. When the
governor senses load like you might have pushed the throttle open, it
pulls the rack along which rotates the pistons allowing more fuel to
get pumped. Opposite, when you use the stop control, the rack rotates
the pistons cutting off the fuel. Fire needs Oxygen, Heat and FUEL.
I don't know the 2GM20 set up but the two things I can suggest are
a. Distillate is an excellent penetrating fluid. Can you put some in
an oilcan - I can give you a tiny one, and lubricate anything that
will alleviate the problem
b. Backup plan - I have used a diesel pumproom at South Hurstville -
Gemini Diesel near West St. They could overhaul the pump if it is not
in the linkages - could cost a couple of hundred or so.
Geoff Raebel
Colin from Moonlight Lady
Jun 15, 2010, 6:44:11 PM6/15/10
to Compass Yacht Group
Distillate? You mean diesel Geoff? I can try - thanks! You and Paul
have me thinking more of the govenor now so I will look that up in the
book when I get back on the yacht. I'm a bit hazy in that area of the
engine. And from the way you describe it I think that I'd best do
this sooner rather than later to ensure that I don't get an issue with
it running at all.
Colin
have me thinking more of the govenor now so I will look that up in the
book when I get back on the yacht. I'm a bit hazy in that area of the
engine. And from the way you describe it I think that I'd best do
this sooner rather than later to ensure that I don't get an issue with
it running at all.
Colin
Maeling
Jun 16, 2010, 5:19:31 PM6/16/10
to Compass Yacht Group
that said, the rack should be well lubricated with diesel/distillate
anyway, and I don't think the governor connection side should give
trouble. I don't understand how the pull-to-stop connects to the
rack, which is inside the injector pump. I think the proble lies in
lost motion at that connection. Google around that area and see if
you can put that picture together
Geoff Raebel
On Jun 16, 8:44 am, Colin from Moonlight Lady <ad...@bestofshow.com>
wrote:
anyway, and I don't think the governor connection side should give
trouble. I don't understand how the pull-to-stop connects to the
rack, which is inside the injector pump. I think the proble lies in
lost motion at that connection. Google around that area and see if
you can put that picture together
Geoff Raebel
On Jun 16, 8:44 am, Colin from Moonlight Lady <ad...@bestofshow.com>
wrote:
MrSeaDragon
Jun 17, 2010, 6:11:05 AM6/17/10
to Compass Yacht Group
Hi Colin,
Put in a call to Minards. they really are helpfull, and will probably
save you mucking about for a few weeks.
Kind regards,
Greg.
Put in a call to Minards. they really are helpfull, and will probably
save you mucking about for a few weeks.
Kind regards,
Greg.
Colin from Moonlight Lady
Jun 17, 2010, 7:14:17 AM6/17/10
to Compass Yacht Group
Yeah - probably a great idea Greg. Thanks! :-)
Djarraluda
Jul 13, 2010, 5:27:44 AM7/13/10
to Compass Yacht Group
Colin,
I have seen a couple of possibilities here:
1. The cable itself is stiff and all your movement on the handle is
not getting transmitted properly. The grease/oil on the cable dries
out in time and gets dirt embedded in it, so they stuiffen-up. Remove
one end and elevate it, use some tape/plsticine or similar and seal a
small funnel shape to the core of the cable, at the join to the outer
sheath, then dribble some thin oil in there. If you want to take it
off and soak it in a bath of kero and then lubricate that is
excellent, full marks for following the book, but...........
The other:
2. The pivot on the lever is worn, so movement on the cable is
slopping the thing sideways rather than pivoting it and thus you get
insufficient movement at the working end. Repair will depend on what
the bush arrangement is, but a good diesel shop will assist if you
take it in. Had that problem many years ago, but it was the fuel pump
and not the stop arm. Easy to say you remove the bushing, press in a
new one and ream it etc etc, but this is not on without workshop
facilities.
Regards,
Roger
On Jun 17, 9:14 pm, Colin from Moonlight Lady <ad...@bestofshow.com>
wrote:
I have seen a couple of possibilities here:
1. The cable itself is stiff and all your movement on the handle is
not getting transmitted properly. The grease/oil on the cable dries
out in time and gets dirt embedded in it, so they stuiffen-up. Remove
one end and elevate it, use some tape/plsticine or similar and seal a
small funnel shape to the core of the cable, at the join to the outer
sheath, then dribble some thin oil in there. If you want to take it
off and soak it in a bath of kero and then lubricate that is
excellent, full marks for following the book, but...........
The other:
2. The pivot on the lever is worn, so movement on the cable is
slopping the thing sideways rather than pivoting it and thus you get
insufficient movement at the working end. Repair will depend on what
the bush arrangement is, but a good diesel shop will assist if you
take it in. Had that problem many years ago, but it was the fuel pump
and not the stop arm. Easy to say you remove the bushing, press in a
new one and ream it etc etc, but this is not on without workshop
facilities.
Regards,
Roger
On Jun 17, 9:14 pm, Colin from Moonlight Lady <ad...@bestofshow.com>
wrote:
Colin from Moonlight Lady
Jul 13, 2010, 7:27:49 PM7/13/10
to Compass Yacht Group
Thanks for that Roger,
I don't THINK that the cable is a problem - I have poured plenty of
WD40 down it! But maybe I do indeed need to pull it all out and have a
good go at it.
I called Minards and they say that I have to pull the timing cover off
- but for the life of me I don't see how! It looks like a solid block
of metal!
One problem is that when I get to the yacht my mind moves to thoughts
of sailing and pulling engines apart is not on the agenda!
Have printed your thoughts off to put into the "boat bag".
Seeya!
C
I don't THINK that the cable is a problem - I have poured plenty of
WD40 down it! But maybe I do indeed need to pull it all out and have a
good go at it.
I called Minards and they say that I have to pull the timing cover off
- but for the life of me I don't see how! It looks like a solid block
of metal!
One problem is that when I get to the yacht my mind moves to thoughts
of sailing and pulling engines apart is not on the agenda!
Have printed your thoughts off to put into the "boat bag".
Seeya!
C
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