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Most batteries don't work in Apple Magic Mouse
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Tom Evans
Jul 23, 2015, 12:28:28 PM7/23/15
to
I have a battery problem with my Apple Magic Mouse.
I found that only the batteries that came with the mouse and AA
Duracell 1.2-volt, DX1500 2,000 nAh, NiMH batteries (which which have
been discontinued by Duracell) work in the mouse.
So I bought some newer Duracell rechargeable, 1.2-volt, 2,400 nAh, NiMH
rechargeable AAs. They work in my digital camera and flashlights, but
they don't work in the mouse.
So then I bought a Panasonic charger and Panasonic Eneloop Pro
BK-3HCCA, 1.2-volt, 2,450 nAh, NiMH batteries, and they, too work in my
digital camera and flashlights, but they don't work in my mouse.
I assume that my mouse is defective and should be replaced, but want to
check if there's something else going on.
I read on the Web that the Apple batteries and charger have also been
found to be unreliable by a big proportion of users.
I found that only the batteries that came with the mouse and AA
Duracell 1.2-volt, DX1500 2,000 nAh, NiMH batteries (which which have
been discontinued by Duracell) work in the mouse.
So I bought some newer Duracell rechargeable, 1.2-volt, 2,400 nAh, NiMH
rechargeable AAs. They work in my digital camera and flashlights, but
they don't work in the mouse.
So then I bought a Panasonic charger and Panasonic Eneloop Pro
BK-3HCCA, 1.2-volt, 2,450 nAh, NiMH batteries, and they, too work in my
digital camera and flashlights, but they don't work in my mouse.
I assume that my mouse is defective and should be replaced, but want to
check if there's something else going on.
I read on the Web that the Apple batteries and charger have also been
found to be unreliable by a big proportion of users.
Warren Oates
Jul 23, 2015, 1:00:35 PM7/23/15
to
In article <201507230928264...@yahoo.ca>,
Our Magic Mouse functions just fine with any kind of AA cell we put in,
rechargeable or throw-away. I usually buy cheap-shit Giant Tiger
throw-away batteries because they last a pretty long time and are, you
know, cheap. These batteries also work fine in our kitchen clock and our
C0 detectors. The wife keeps some rechargeable AAs plugged in here and
there around the house, and they work fine too, they just don't last as
long.
Are you putting them in the right way 'round?
--
Where's the Vangelis music?
Pris' tongue is sticking out in in the wide shot after Batty has kissed her.
They have put back more tits into the Zhora dressing room scene.
-- notes for Blade Runner
rechargeable or throw-away. I usually buy cheap-shit Giant Tiger
throw-away batteries because they last a pretty long time and are, you
know, cheap. These batteries also work fine in our kitchen clock and our
C0 detectors. The wife keeps some rechargeable AAs plugged in here and
there around the house, and they work fine too, they just don't last as
long.
Are you putting them in the right way 'round?
--
Where's the Vangelis music?
Pris' tongue is sticking out in in the wide shot after Batty has kissed her.
They have put back more tits into the Zhora dressing room scene.
-- notes for Blade Runner
Jolly Roger
Jul 23, 2015, 1:03:58 PM7/23/15
to
On 2015-07-23, Tom Evans <tomeva...@yahoo.ca> wrote:
>
> I read on the Web that the Apple batteries and charger have also been
> found to be unreliable by a big proportion of users.
I doubt that. My personal experience with several sets of Apple
>
> I read on the Web that the Apple batteries and charger have also been
> found to be unreliable by a big proportion of users.
batteries and chargers is that they are extremely reliable.
--
E-mail sent to this address may be devoured by my ravenous SPAM filter.
I often ignore posts from Google. Use a real news client instead.
JR
Tom Evans
Jul 23, 2015, 2:45:14 PM7/23/15
to
Tom
Tom Evans
Jul 23, 2015, 2:58:01 PM7/23/15
to
On 2015-07-23 17:03:56 +0000, Jolly Roger said:
> On 2015-07-23, Tom Evans <tomeva...@yahoo.ca> wrote:
>>
>> I read on the Web that the Apple batteries and charger have also been
>> found to be unreliable by a big proportion of users.
>
> I doubt that. My personal experience with several sets of Apple
> batteries and chargers is that they are extremely reliable.
The Apple Web site shows that a big proportion of users are
> On 2015-07-23, Tom Evans <tomeva...@yahoo.ca> wrote:
>>
>> I read on the Web that the Apple batteries and charger have also been
>> found to be unreliable by a big proportion of users.
>
> I doubt that. My personal experience with several sets of Apple
> batteries and chargers is that they are extremely reliable.
dissatisfied with the Apple Battery charger:
See http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MC500LL/A/apple-battery-charger?fnode=5a
There's a chart on that page that shows 125 five-star ratings compared
to 95 one- and two-star ratings and there are many scathing reviews
that accompany the poor ratings.
Tom
nospam
Jul 23, 2015, 2:59:55 PM7/23/15
to
In article <2015072311580055...@yahoo.ca>, Tom Evans
the apple batteries are rebranded eneloops, the same as you can get
anywhere.
<tomeva...@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> The Apple Web site shows that a big proportion of users are
> dissatisfied with the Apple Battery charger:
that's because it's not a very good charger. try a maha instead.
> The Apple Web site shows that a big proportion of users are
> dissatisfied with the Apple Battery charger:
the apple batteries are rebranded eneloops, the same as you can get
anywhere.
Andreas Rutishauser
Jul 24, 2015, 2:11:47 AM7/24/15
to
Salut Tom
In article <201507230928264...@yahoo.ca>,
it might be that the batteries you are trying are a bit short.
It might be that the "nozzle" part of the battery does not reach the
contact at the mouse.
This can be remedied by putting some aluminium foil between battery
nozzle and mouse contact.
Cheers
Andreas
--
MacAndreas Rutishauser, <http://www.MacAndreas.ch>
EDV-Dienstleistungen, Hard- und Software, Internet und Netzwerk
Beratung, Unterstuetzung und Schulung
<mailto:and...@MacAndreas.ch>, Fon: 044 / 721 36 47
In article <201507230928264...@yahoo.ca>,
It might be that the "nozzle" part of the battery does not reach the
contact at the mouse.
This can be remedied by putting some aluminium foil between battery
nozzle and mouse contact.
Cheers
Andreas
--
MacAndreas Rutishauser, <http://www.MacAndreas.ch>
EDV-Dienstleistungen, Hard- und Software, Internet und Netzwerk
Beratung, Unterstuetzung und Schulung
<mailto:and...@MacAndreas.ch>, Fon: 044 / 721 36 47
Your Name
Jul 24, 2015, 3:07:33 AM7/24/15
to
In article <andreas-BFD724...@news.individual.de>, Andreas
It might be that the wireless connection needs to be re-established.
It might be that the mouse is simply dead and needs replacing.
Rutishauser <and...@macandreas.ch> wrote:
> Salut Tom
> In article <201507230928264...@yahoo.ca>,
> Tom Evans <tomeva...@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> >
> > I have a battery problem with my Apple Magic Mouse.
> >
> > I found that only the batteries that came with the mouse and AA
> > Duracell 1.2-volt, DX1500 2,000 nAh, NiMH batteries (which which have
> > been discontinued by Duracell) work in the mouse.
> >
> > So I bought some newer Duracell rechargeable, 1.2-volt, 2,400 nAh, NiMH
> > rechargeable AAs. They work in my digital camera and flashlights, but
> > they don't work in the mouse.
> >
> > So then I bought a Panasonic charger and Panasonic Eneloop Pro
> > BK-3HCCA, 1.2-volt, 2,450 nAh, NiMH batteries, and they, too work in my
> > digital camera and flashlights, but they don't work in my mouse.
> >
> > I assume that my mouse is defective and should be replaced, but want to
> > check if there's something else going on.
> >
> > I read on the Web that the Apple batteries and charger have also been
> > found to be unreliable by a big proportion of users.
>
> it might be that the batteries you are trying are a bit short.
> It might be that the "nozzle" part of the battery does not reach the
> contact at the mouse.
> This can be remedied by putting some aluminium foil between battery
> nozzle and mouse contact.
It might be that the connectors are grubby.
> Salut Tom
> In article <201507230928264...@yahoo.ca>,
> Tom Evans <tomeva...@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> >
> > I have a battery problem with my Apple Magic Mouse.
> >
> > I found that only the batteries that came with the mouse and AA
> > Duracell 1.2-volt, DX1500 2,000 nAh, NiMH batteries (which which have
> > been discontinued by Duracell) work in the mouse.
> >
> > So I bought some newer Duracell rechargeable, 1.2-volt, 2,400 nAh, NiMH
> > rechargeable AAs. They work in my digital camera and flashlights, but
> > they don't work in the mouse.
> >
> > So then I bought a Panasonic charger and Panasonic Eneloop Pro
> > BK-3HCCA, 1.2-volt, 2,450 nAh, NiMH batteries, and they, too work in my
> > digital camera and flashlights, but they don't work in my mouse.
> >
> > I assume that my mouse is defective and should be replaced, but want to
> > check if there's something else going on.
> >
> > I read on the Web that the Apple batteries and charger have also been
> > found to be unreliable by a big proportion of users.
>
> it might be that the batteries you are trying are a bit short.
> It might be that the "nozzle" part of the battery does not reach the
> contact at the mouse.
> This can be remedied by putting some aluminium foil between battery
> nozzle and mouse contact.
It might be that the wireless connection needs to be re-established.
It might be that the mouse is simply dead and needs replacing.
Jolly Roger
Jul 24, 2015, 12:41:09 PM7/24/15
to
AA batteries, and an Apple charger as well as a Sanyo charger. I've only
been through one test pass so far; but the Apple charger only charged
the batteries to ~65%, whereas the Sanyo charger got them up to 100%. If
these results turn out to be typical, I'll stop using the Apple charger.
Kevin McMurtrie
Jul 25, 2015, 3:30:04 AM7/25/15
to
Most NiMH chargers are bad by nature. Indications of a complete NiMH
charge are subtle and difficult to detect.
Trickle: Very low current for 10 to 20 hours. Reliable until the
battery fails from repeated overcharging.
dV : Charge at a 3 to 1 hour rate and look for a slight voltage
plateau. This plateau can can not be seen clearly if any conditions
change (loose contacts, power fluctuations, temperature changes, etc.),
so it's easy to over or under charge. A timed top-off trickle charge
may be added if the battery did not become hot from overcharge.
dT : Charge at 1 hour rate and look for a temperature increase of 1C per
minute or reaching 60C. The 1C per minute increase is difficult to
detect if any conditions change (wind, heat, air conditioning, etc.), so
it too is easy to over or under charge.
Pressure : Charge at 1 hour rate until gassing starts. Requires a
pressure sensor in the battery.
Magic : Charge slower than a 3 hour rate and claim that a magical CPU
can sense the aura of a full battery. Usually needs magical conditions
to work.
--
I will not see posts from astraweb, theremailer, dizum, or google
because they host Usenet flooders.
nospam
Jul 25, 2015, 10:21:04 AM7/25/15
to
In article <mcmurtrie-E5028...@news.sonic.net>, Kevin
probably not.
> Most NiMH chargers are bad by nature. Indications of a complete NiMH
> charge are subtle and difficult to detect.
other than the cheapo chargers that are timer based, most are quite
good.
> Trickle: Very low current for 10 to 20 hours. Reliable until the
> battery fails from repeated overcharging.
timer based chargers are not reliable because they have no way to sense
end of charge. they just charge a preset amount of time, which will be
different depending on how discharged the battery is when put into the
charger.
> dV : Charge at a 3 to 1 hour rate and look for a slight voltage
> plateau. This plateau can can not be seen clearly if any conditions
> change (loose contacts, power fluctuations, temperature changes, etc.),
> so it's easy to over or under charge. A timed top-off trickle charge
> may be added if the battery did not become hot from overcharge.
nonsense and it's actually a voltage drop, not a plateau (ndv). it's
very easy to detect and what most smart chargers do.
> dT : Charge at 1 hour rate and look for a temperature increase of 1C per
> minute or reaching 60C. The 1C per minute increase is difficult to
> detect if any conditions change (wind, heat, air conditioning, etc.), so
> it too is easy to over or under charge.
more nonsense. a temperature sensor in the battery bay is all that's
needed and works well.
wind?? are you charging batteries outside?
> Pressure : Charge at 1 hour rate until gassing starts. Requires a
> pressure sensor in the battery.
which aa batteries do not have.
> Magic : Charge slower than a 3 hour rate and claim that a magical CPU
> can sense the aura of a full battery. Usually needs magical conditions
> to work.
nonsense.
smart chargers do not use magic. they continually monitor the state of
charge of the battery and adjust accordingly. the better ones use
multiple charge stages, using a combination of constant current and
constant voltage and then switching to trickle charge at eoc.
probably not.
> Most NiMH chargers are bad by nature. Indications of a complete NiMH
> charge are subtle and difficult to detect.
good.
> Trickle: Very low current for 10 to 20 hours. Reliable until the
> battery fails from repeated overcharging.
end of charge. they just charge a preset amount of time, which will be
different depending on how discharged the battery is when put into the
charger.
> dV : Charge at a 3 to 1 hour rate and look for a slight voltage
> plateau. This plateau can can not be seen clearly if any conditions
> change (loose contacts, power fluctuations, temperature changes, etc.),
> so it's easy to over or under charge. A timed top-off trickle charge
> may be added if the battery did not become hot from overcharge.
very easy to detect and what most smart chargers do.
> dT : Charge at 1 hour rate and look for a temperature increase of 1C per
> minute or reaching 60C. The 1C per minute increase is difficult to
> detect if any conditions change (wind, heat, air conditioning, etc.), so
> it too is easy to over or under charge.
needed and works well.
wind?? are you charging batteries outside?
> Pressure : Charge at 1 hour rate until gassing starts. Requires a
> pressure sensor in the battery.
> Magic : Charge slower than a 3 hour rate and claim that a magical CPU
> can sense the aura of a full battery. Usually needs magical conditions
> to work.
smart chargers do not use magic. they continually monitor the state of
charge of the battery and adjust accordingly. the better ones use
multiple charge stages, using a combination of constant current and
constant voltage and then switching to trickle charge at eoc.
Kevin McMurtrie
Jul 25, 2015, 6:10:02 PM7/25/15
to
Woohoo! Trolls are still alive and well in the ghost town of desktop
Apple hardware.
In article <250720151021006859%nos...@nospam.invalid>,
> > dV : Charge at a 3 to 1 hour rate and look for a slight voltage
> > plateau. This plateau can can not be seen clearly if any conditions
> > change (loose contacts, power fluctuations, temperature changes, etc.),
> > so it's easy to over or under charge. A timed top-off trickle charge
> > may be added if the battery did not become hot from overcharge.
>
> nonsense and it's actually a voltage drop, not a plateau (ndv). it's
> very easy to detect and what most smart chargers do.
That's NiCd. Difference chemistry and decade of prevalence. Try
looking something up. NiMH just has a flattening of the voltage curve.
> > dT : Charge at 1 hour rate and look for a temperature increase of 1C per
> > minute or reaching 60C. The 1C per minute increase is difficult to
> > detect if any conditions change (wind, heat, air conditioning, etc.), so
> > it too is easy to over or under charge.
>
> more nonsense. a temperature sensor in the battery bay is all that's
> needed and works well.
>
> wind?? are you charging batteries outside?
Are you in a sealed room with no ventilation. That explains some things.
>
> > Pressure : Charge at 1 hour rate until gassing starts. Requires a
> > pressure sensor in the battery.
>
> which aa batteries do not have.
Except for all those consumer cells with the pressure sensor contact
ring on the side, and many industrial cells.
>
> > Magic : Charge slower than a 3 hour rate and claim that a magical CPU
> > can sense the aura of a full battery. Usually needs magical conditions
> > to work.
>
> nonsense.
>
> smart chargers do not use magic. they continually monitor the state of
> charge of the battery and adjust accordingly. the better ones use
> multiple charge stages, using a combination of constant current and
> constant voltage and then switching to trickle charge at eoc.
The state? What state? Check the charts for any name brand cells.
The charge voltage remains constant.
The impedance remains constant.
Very little heat is produced - just that of the hydrogen gas catalyst.
That leaves magic.
Apple hardware.
In article <250720151021006859%nos...@nospam.invalid>,
nospam <nos...@nospam.invalid> wrote:
> In article <mcmurtrie-E5028...@news.sonic.net>, Kevin
> McMurtrie <mcmu...@pixelmemory.us> wrote:
>
> > The mouse probably has a defective cut-off voltage.
>
> probably not.
>
> > Most NiMH chargers are bad by nature. Indications of a complete NiMH
> > charge are subtle and difficult to detect.
>
> other than the cheapo chargers that are timer based, most are quite
> good.
>
> > Trickle: Very low current for 10 to 20 hours. Reliable until the
> > battery fails from repeated overcharging.
>
> timer based chargers are not reliable because they have no way to sense
> end of charge. they just charge a preset amount of time, which will be
> different depending on how discharged the battery is when put into the
> charger.
WTF. They always charge. Sometimes they overcharge.
> In article <mcmurtrie-E5028...@news.sonic.net>, Kevin
> McMurtrie <mcmu...@pixelmemory.us> wrote:
>
> > The mouse probably has a defective cut-off voltage.
>
> probably not.
>
> > Most NiMH chargers are bad by nature. Indications of a complete NiMH
> > charge are subtle and difficult to detect.
>
> other than the cheapo chargers that are timer based, most are quite
> good.
>
> > Trickle: Very low current for 10 to 20 hours. Reliable until the
> > battery fails from repeated overcharging.
>
> timer based chargers are not reliable because they have no way to sense
> end of charge. they just charge a preset amount of time, which will be
> different depending on how discharged the battery is when put into the
> charger.
> > dV : Charge at a 3 to 1 hour rate and look for a slight voltage
> > plateau. This plateau can can not be seen clearly if any conditions
> > change (loose contacts, power fluctuations, temperature changes, etc.),
> > so it's easy to over or under charge. A timed top-off trickle charge
> > may be added if the battery did not become hot from overcharge.
>
> nonsense and it's actually a voltage drop, not a plateau (ndv). it's
> very easy to detect and what most smart chargers do.
looking something up. NiMH just has a flattening of the voltage curve.
> > dT : Charge at 1 hour rate and look for a temperature increase of 1C per
> > minute or reaching 60C. The 1C per minute increase is difficult to
> > detect if any conditions change (wind, heat, air conditioning, etc.), so
> > it too is easy to over or under charge.
>
> more nonsense. a temperature sensor in the battery bay is all that's
> needed and works well.
>
> wind?? are you charging batteries outside?
>
> > Pressure : Charge at 1 hour rate until gassing starts. Requires a
> > pressure sensor in the battery.
>
> which aa batteries do not have.
ring on the side, and many industrial cells.
>
> > Magic : Charge slower than a 3 hour rate and claim that a magical CPU
> > can sense the aura of a full battery. Usually needs magical conditions
> > to work.
>
> nonsense.
>
> smart chargers do not use magic. they continually monitor the state of
> charge of the battery and adjust accordingly. the better ones use
> multiple charge stages, using a combination of constant current and
> constant voltage and then switching to trickle charge at eoc.
The charge voltage remains constant.
The impedance remains constant.
Very little heat is produced - just that of the hydrogen gas catalyst.
That leaves magic.
nospam
Jul 25, 2015, 9:01:05 PM7/25/15
to
In article <mcmurtrie-42101...@news.sonic.net>, Kevin
battery. if the battery is only partly discharge, it will overcharge.
it's a timer. it's not checking the charge state.
> > > dV : Charge at a 3 to 1 hour rate and look for a slight voltage
> > > plateau. This plateau can can not be seen clearly if any conditions
> > > change (loose contacts, power fluctuations, temperature changes, etc.),
> > > so it's easy to over or under charge. A timed top-off trickle charge
> > > may be added if the battery did not become hot from overcharge.
> >
> > nonsense and it's actually a voltage drop, not a plateau (ndv). it's
> > very easy to detect and what most smart chargers do.
>
> That's NiCd. Difference chemistry and decade of prevalence. Try
> looking something up. NiMH just has a flattening of the voltage curve.
nope. nimh has ndv, it's just smaller.
nimh chargers, which can also charge nicad, use ndv and/or delta-t.
> > > dT : Charge at 1 hour rate and look for a temperature increase of 1C per
> > > minute or reaching 60C. The 1C per minute increase is difficult to
> > > detect if any conditions change (wind, heat, air conditioning, etc.), so
> > > it too is easy to over or under charge.
> >
> > more nonsense. a temperature sensor in the battery bay is all that's
> > needed and works well.
> >
> > wind?? are you charging batteries outside?
>
> Are you in a sealed room with no ventilation. That explains some things.
there is no need for a sealed room and even if there's a breeze, it
doesn't make any difference. the temperature sensor is in contact with
the battery.
> > > Pressure : Charge at 1 hour rate until gassing starts. Requires a
> > > pressure sensor in the battery.
> >
> > which aa batteries do not have.
>
> Except for all those consumer cells with the pressure sensor contact
> ring on the side, and many industrial cells.
not on aa cells.
> > > Magic : Charge slower than a 3 hour rate and claim that a magical CPU
> > > can sense the aura of a full battery. Usually needs magical conditions
> > > to work.
> >
> > nonsense.
> >
> > smart chargers do not use magic. they continually monitor the state of
> > charge of the battery and adjust accordingly. the better ones use
> > multiple charge stages, using a combination of constant current and
> > constant voltage and then switching to trickle charge at eoc.
>
> The state? What state? Check the charts for any name brand cells.
state of charge.
> The charge voltage remains constant.
nope. nimh is charged with constant current. otherwise, it could never
sense ndv.
<http://dev.emcelettronica.com/files/u4/Typical_NiMH_NiCd_Charge_Profile.
png>
smart chargers can also detect failing cells and alert the user to
replace them.
> The impedance remains constant.
not an issue.
> Very little heat is produced - just that of the hydrogen gas catalyst.
wrong on that too. anyone who has put batteries into a charger knows
that they get warm, sometimes very warm.
> That leaves magic.
nope.
there is nothing magical about battery charging.
McMurtrie <mcmu...@pixelmemory.us> wrote:
> > > Trickle: Very low current for 10 to 20 hours. Reliable until the
> > > battery fails from repeated overcharging.
> >
> > timer based chargers are not reliable because they have no way to sense
> > end of charge. they just charge a preset amount of time, which will be
> > different depending on how discharged the battery is when put into the
> > charger.
>
> WTF. They always charge. Sometimes they overcharge.
they almost always overcharge because it assumes a fully discharged
> > > Trickle: Very low current for 10 to 20 hours. Reliable until the
> > > battery fails from repeated overcharging.
> >
> > timer based chargers are not reliable because they have no way to sense
> > end of charge. they just charge a preset amount of time, which will be
> > different depending on how discharged the battery is when put into the
> > charger.
>
> WTF. They always charge. Sometimes they overcharge.
battery. if the battery is only partly discharge, it will overcharge.
it's a timer. it's not checking the charge state.
> > > dV : Charge at a 3 to 1 hour rate and look for a slight voltage
> > > plateau. This plateau can can not be seen clearly if any conditions
> > > change (loose contacts, power fluctuations, temperature changes, etc.),
> > > so it's easy to over or under charge. A timed top-off trickle charge
> > > may be added if the battery did not become hot from overcharge.
> >
> > nonsense and it's actually a voltage drop, not a plateau (ndv). it's
> > very easy to detect and what most smart chargers do.
>
> That's NiCd. Difference chemistry and decade of prevalence. Try
> looking something up. NiMH just has a flattening of the voltage curve.
nimh chargers, which can also charge nicad, use ndv and/or delta-t.
> > > dT : Charge at 1 hour rate and look for a temperature increase of 1C per
> > > minute or reaching 60C. The 1C per minute increase is difficult to
> > > detect if any conditions change (wind, heat, air conditioning, etc.), so
> > > it too is easy to over or under charge.
> >
> > more nonsense. a temperature sensor in the battery bay is all that's
> > needed and works well.
> >
> > wind?? are you charging batteries outside?
>
> Are you in a sealed room with no ventilation. That explains some things.
doesn't make any difference. the temperature sensor is in contact with
the battery.
> > > Pressure : Charge at 1 hour rate until gassing starts. Requires a
> > > pressure sensor in the battery.
> >
> > which aa batteries do not have.
>
> Except for all those consumer cells with the pressure sensor contact
> ring on the side, and many industrial cells.
> > > Magic : Charge slower than a 3 hour rate and claim that a magical CPU
> > > can sense the aura of a full battery. Usually needs magical conditions
> > > to work.
> >
> > nonsense.
> >
> > smart chargers do not use magic. they continually monitor the state of
> > charge of the battery and adjust accordingly. the better ones use
> > multiple charge stages, using a combination of constant current and
> > constant voltage and then switching to trickle charge at eoc.
>
> The state? What state? Check the charts for any name brand cells.
> The charge voltage remains constant.
sense ndv.
<http://dev.emcelettronica.com/files/u4/Typical_NiMH_NiCd_Charge_Profile.
png>
smart chargers can also detect failing cells and alert the user to
replace them.
> The impedance remains constant.
not an issue.
> Very little heat is produced - just that of the hydrogen gas catalyst.
that they get warm, sometimes very warm.
> That leaves magic.
nope.
there is nothing magical about battery charging.
Tom Evans
Aug 1, 2015, 2:06:56 PM8/1/15
to
the newer Duracells) are slightly longer than the batteries that do
work (the older Duracells).
So the scenario is the opposite of what your surmised; you surmised the
the batteries that don't work are too SHORT, but instead it's the
batteries that are TOO LONG that don't work.
Tom Evans
Andreas Rutishauser
Aug 2, 2015, 12:45:53 AM8/2/15
to
In article <201508011106556...@yahoo.ca>,
contact in the mouse...
Tom Evans <tomeva...@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> On 2015-07-24 06:11:45 +0000, Andreas Rutishauser said:
> > In article <201507230928264...@yahoo.ca>,
> > Tom Evans <tomeva...@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> >
> >> I have a battery problem with my Apple Magic Mouse.
> >>
> >> I found that only the batteries that came with the mouse and AA
> >> Duracell 1.2-volt, DX1500 2,000 nAh, NiMH batteries (which which have
> >> been discontinued by Duracell) work in the mouse.
> >>
> >> So I bought some newer Duracell rechargeable, 1.2-volt, 2,400 nAh, NiMH
> >> rechargeable AAs. They work in my digital camera and flashlights, but
> >> they don't work in the mouse.
> >>
> >> So then I bought a Panasonic charger and Panasonic Eneloop Pro
> >> BK-3HCCA, 1.2-volt, 2,450 nAh, NiMH batteries, and they, too work in my
> >> digital camera and flashlights, but they don't work in my mouse.
> >>
> >> I assume that my mouse is defective and should be replaced, but want to
> >> check if there's something else going on.
> >>
> >> I read on the Web that the Apple batteries and charger have also been
> >> found to be unreliable by a big proportion of users.
> >
> > it might be that the batteries you are trying are a bit short.
> > It might be that the "nozzle" part of the battery does not reach the
> > contact at the mouse.
> > This can be remedied by putting some aluminium foil between battery
> > nozzle and mouse contact.
> On 2015-07-24 06:11:45 +0000, Andreas Rutishauser said:
> > In article <201507230928264...@yahoo.ca>,
> > Tom Evans <tomeva...@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> >
> >> I have a battery problem with my Apple Magic Mouse.
> >>
> >> I found that only the batteries that came with the mouse and AA
> >> Duracell 1.2-volt, DX1500 2,000 nAh, NiMH batteries (which which have
> >> been discontinued by Duracell) work in the mouse.
> >>
> >> So I bought some newer Duracell rechargeable, 1.2-volt, 2,400 nAh, NiMH
> >> rechargeable AAs. They work in my digital camera and flashlights, but
> >> they don't work in the mouse.
> >>
> >> So then I bought a Panasonic charger and Panasonic Eneloop Pro
> >> BK-3HCCA, 1.2-volt, 2,450 nAh, NiMH batteries, and they, too work in my
> >> digital camera and flashlights, but they don't work in my mouse.
> >>
> >> I assume that my mouse is defective and should be replaced, but want to
> >> check if there's something else going on.
> >>
> >> I read on the Web that the Apple batteries and charger have also been
> >> found to be unreliable by a big proportion of users.
> >
> > it might be that the batteries you are trying are a bit short.
> > It might be that the "nozzle" part of the battery does not reach the
> > contact at the mouse.
> > This can be remedied by putting some aluminium foil between battery
> > nozzle and mouse contact.
> I just noticed that the batteries that don't work (the Eneloop Pros and
> the newer Duracells) are slightly longer than the batteries that do
> work (the older Duracells).
>
> So the scenario is the opposite of what your surmised; you surmised the
> the batteries that don't work are too SHORT, but instead it's the
> batteries that are TOO LONG that don't work.
it still might be that the + nozzle of the battery can't reach the
> the newer Duracells) are slightly longer than the batteries that do
> work (the older Duracells).
>
> So the scenario is the opposite of what your surmised; you surmised the
> the batteries that don't work are too SHORT, but instead it's the
> batteries that are TOO LONG that don't work.
contact in the mouse...
Your Name
Aug 2, 2015, 3:24:48 AM8/2/15
to
In article <andreas-779D85...@news.individual.de>, Andreas
The battery casing is possibly has too much depth for the mouse's
contact to actually touch the battery's metal at the negative end. The
small wad of aluminium foil trick should solve that.
contact to actually touch the battery's metal at the negative end. The
small wad of aluminium foil trick should solve that.
Tom Evans
Aug 13, 2015, 1:54:28 PM8/13/15
to
might help to bridge the gap. But if the batteries are too long (as is
my case) than adding the foil makes no sense, as there is no gap to
bridge.
But I tried adding the foil again anyway, and demonstrated that your
proposed solution doesn't work.
So this is still an unsolved mystery and problem.
Tom
Tom Evans
Aug 13, 2015, 1:57:11 PM8/13/15
to
The aluminum foil added to the plus or minus end of the batteries in
the charger does not get the batteries to work.
Tom
Andreas Rutishauser
Aug 14, 2015, 1:11:10 AM8/14/15
to
Salut Tom
In article <2015081310542666...@yahoo.ca>,
the + nozzle goes into a recession in the black plastic part.
If the battery is longer than usual the nozzle might be shorter, so it
can't reach the contact, as the battery is blocked by the casing.
If you put in fresh or charged batteries the right way round and there
is no green light when you turn the mouse on, there is a contact problem
in my understanding. There has to be a way to solve this without
applying rocket science ;-)
In article <2015081310542666...@yahoo.ca>,
> If the batteries are too short then it makes sense that adding the foil
> might help to bridge the gap. But if the batteries are too long (as is
> my case) than adding the foil makes no sense, as there is no gap to
> bridge.
well, look at the construction of the mouse closely:
> might help to bridge the gap. But if the batteries are too long (as is
> my case) than adding the foil makes no sense, as there is no gap to
> bridge.
the + nozzle goes into a recession in the black plastic part.
If the battery is longer than usual the nozzle might be shorter, so it
can't reach the contact, as the battery is blocked by the casing.
>
> But I tried adding the foil again anyway, and demonstrated that your
> proposed solution doesn't work.
>
> So this is still an unsolved mystery and problem.
unsolved, yes. mystery?
> But I tried adding the foil again anyway, and demonstrated that your
> proposed solution doesn't work.
>
> So this is still an unsolved mystery and problem.
If you put in fresh or charged batteries the right way round and there
is no green light when you turn the mouse on, there is a contact problem
in my understanding. There has to be a way to solve this without
applying rocket science ;-)
Tom Evans
Aug 14, 2015, 1:49:27 AM8/14/15
to
buy another mouse, because I'm not a scientist.
And the foil idea is a poor one anyway, because the foil falls out of
place and crumples every time I change the batteries, so it would take
fussing every time I'd change the batteries.
Tom Evans
Your Name
Aug 14, 2015, 2:22:16 AM8/14/15
to
In article <2015081322492611...@yahoo.ca>, Tom Evans
- your mouse is broken in some way
or - you've got non-standard, ill-shaped, or simply wrong batteries
or - you're a moron who doesn't know how to put the batteries in ;-)
For the first two, you could take the mouse and batteries to an Apple
Store or reseller and get them to have a look. For the third
possibility you would need to see a brain surgeon about getting a
Frankenstein-style transplant.
> Well, the foil insert doesn't work. So the only logical resort is to
> buy another mouse, because I'm not a scientist.
>
> And the foil idea is a poor one anyway, because the foil falls out of
> place and crumples every time I change the batteries, so it would take
> fussing every time I'd change the batteries.
There's really only three possibilities ...
> buy another mouse, because I'm not a scientist.
>
> And the foil idea is a poor one anyway, because the foil falls out of
> place and crumples every time I change the batteries, so it would take
> fussing every time I'd change the batteries.
- your mouse is broken in some way
or - you've got non-standard, ill-shaped, or simply wrong batteries
or - you're a moron who doesn't know how to put the batteries in ;-)
For the first two, you could take the mouse and batteries to an Apple
Store or reseller and get them to have a look. For the third
possibility you would need to see a brain surgeon about getting a
Frankenstein-style transplant.
Your Name
Aug 14, 2015, 2:23:13 AM8/14/15
to
In article <andreas-6EE8C2...@news.individual.de>, Andreas
involved cause the battery to make contact properly. ;-)
Rutishauser <and...@macandreas.ch> wrote:
>
> unsolved, yes. mystery?
> If you put in fresh or charged batteries the right way round and there
> is no green light when you turn the mouse on, there is a contact problem
> in my understanding. There has to be a way to solve this without
> applying rocket science ;-)
You never know. Launching the mouse on a rocket might mean the G-forces
>
> unsolved, yes. mystery?
> If you put in fresh or charged batteries the right way round and there
> is no green light when you turn the mouse on, there is a contact problem
> in my understanding. There has to be a way to solve this without
> applying rocket science ;-)
involved cause the battery to make contact properly. ;-)
Jolly Roger
Aug 14, 2015, 9:51:25 AM8/14/15
to
On 2015-08-14, Your Name <Your...@YourISP.com> wrote:
>
> There's really only three possibilities ...
>
> - your mouse is broken in some way
>
> or - you've got non-standard, ill-shaped, or simply wrong batteries
>
> or - you're a moron who doesn't know how to put the batteries in ;-)
>
> For the first two, you could take the mouse and batteries to an Apple
> Store or reseller and get them to have a look. For the third
> possibility you would need to see a brain surgeon about getting a
> Frankenstein-style transplant.
Yep. I'd take it to the Apple Store along with the various batteries
>
> There's really only three possibilities ...
>
> - your mouse is broken in some way
>
> or - you've got non-standard, ill-shaped, or simply wrong batteries
>
> or - you're a moron who doesn't know how to put the batteries in ;-)
>
> For the first two, you could take the mouse and batteries to an Apple
> Store or reseller and get them to have a look. For the third
> possibility you would need to see a brain surgeon about getting a
> Frankenstein-style transplant.
that do not work and let them screw around with it to see what's up.
Show them the problem and you may just walk out with a new mouse.
Tom Evans
Aug 15, 2015, 9:54:35 AM8/15/15
to
both types of Duracell batteries and the Panasonic Eneloop Pros that
I've tried -- and my mouse -- to an Apple store for testing, because
it's apparent now the mouse is defective.
And if I were a moron, obviously I would not have been able to figure
out that the batteries that DON'T work in the mouse are about one
millimeter longer than the batteries that DO work in the mouse (because
that's a subtelty) and that the batteries that don't work in the mouse
still work in other devices, such as flashlights and cameras.
Tom
Your Name
Aug 16, 2015, 5:32:12 PM8/16/15
to
In article <d39auf...@mid.individual.net>, TaliesinSoft
<talies...@me.com> wrote:
> rechargeable batteries in my Magic Mouse as it would likely have been
> quite embarrasing to Apple if those batteries didn't work! As an aside,
> that mouse is now totally unused as I have switched to using the Magic
> Trackpad, a device that to me is far, far better for cursor control
> than a mouse.
I wouldn't worry. It looks like Apple are about to solve this battery
"problem" by having a wireless a mouse and keyboard (and presumably
trackpad) that no longer uses user-replaceable AA batteries.
This new patent shows a wireless mouse and keyboard with integrated
lithium battery packs which have to be recharged - although it doesn't
indicate whether that's via wireless charging or not.
http://www.macrumors.com/2015/08/15/magic-mouse-2-keyboard-fcc/
That MacRumors article says Apple "may be likely" to release these new
devices at the iPhone event in early September, but it would seem more
likely to release them with new iMacs (which is unlikely to be the same
day, maybe in October).
<talies...@me.com> wrote:
> On 2015-08-15 13:54:34 +0000, Tom Evans said:
> >
> > And if I were a moron, obviously I would not have been able to figure
> > out that the batteries that DON'T work in the mouse are about one
> > millimeter longer than the batteries that DO work in the mouse (because
> > that's a subtelty) and that the batteries that don't work in the mouse
> > still work in other devices, such as flashlights and cameras.
>
> I guess I lucked out because I chose to use the Apple branded
> >
> > And if I were a moron, obviously I would not have been able to figure
> > out that the batteries that DON'T work in the mouse are about one
> > millimeter longer than the batteries that DO work in the mouse (because
> > that's a subtelty) and that the batteries that don't work in the mouse
> > still work in other devices, such as flashlights and cameras.
>
> rechargeable batteries in my Magic Mouse as it would likely have been
> quite embarrasing to Apple if those batteries didn't work! As an aside,
> that mouse is now totally unused as I have switched to using the Magic
> Trackpad, a device that to me is far, far better for cursor control
> than a mouse.
I wouldn't worry. It looks like Apple are about to solve this battery
"problem" by having a wireless a mouse and keyboard (and presumably
trackpad) that no longer uses user-replaceable AA batteries.
This new patent shows a wireless mouse and keyboard with integrated
lithium battery packs which have to be recharged - although it doesn't
indicate whether that's via wireless charging or not.
http://www.macrumors.com/2015/08/15/magic-mouse-2-keyboard-fcc/
That MacRumors article says Apple "may be likely" to release these new
devices at the iPhone event in early September, but it would seem more
likely to release them with new iMacs (which is unlikely to be the same
day, maybe in October).
John Varela
Aug 19, 2015, 9:16:43 PM8/19/15
to
On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 21:33:36 UTC, Your Name <Your...@YourISP.com>
wrote:
I just bought a Logitech 105-key wireless Mac keyboard that is
battery powered and recharged by solar cells. Only $59.99. Oddly, I
couldn't find a true Mac wireless keyboard on the Logitech web site,
but found them at Micro Center. I'm very pleased with it. The only
thing I dislike is that there is no light to warn when caps lock is
engaged --- so I disabled caps lock.
--
John Varela
wrote:
battery powered and recharged by solar cells. Only $59.99. Oddly, I
couldn't find a true Mac wireless keyboard on the Logitech web site,
but found them at Micro Center. I'm very pleased with it. The only
thing I dislike is that there is no light to warn when caps lock is
engaged --- so I disabled caps lock.
--
John Varela
h...@brettpeary.com
Feb 24, 2018, 5:47:47 AM2/24/18
to
I just want everyone to know that he's not crazy. I have the same problem. I have older Enloop (non-pro) ones and the + nub is slightly longer, and they work. The battery nub is too short.
ErikRS
Feb 24, 2018, 7:15:23 AM2/24/18
to
everywhere in any battery driven devices - keyboards, mice, trackpads,
trackballs...
Also the 3,6v/3,7v PRAM batteries (half-size AA) can be a problem in
some computer models.
Even in cameras that are using these battery types with a knob (1,2v,
1,32v, 1,5v, 3,5v, 3,6v, 3,7v, 6,0v, 7,2v, 7,3v, 7,4v). The knob can be
too short or even too broad so it can't fit into the slice inside the
camera/device.
One can't blame Apple, Logitech or whoever for this problem. Because
these manufacturers are using the IEEE standards. The blame is to be put
on the battery cell manufacturers, because it's these companies that
donot keep the standars!
Cheers, Erik Richard
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Erik Richard Sørensen <mac-d...@MOVEstofanet.dk>
NisusWriter - The Future In Multilingual Text Processing - www.nisus.com
Openoffice.org - The Modern Productivity Solution - www.openoffice.org
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Anders Eklöf
Feb 24, 2018, 7:48:29 AM2/24/18
to
ErikRS <mac-...@is.invalid> wrote:
> h...@brettpeary.com wrote:
> > I just want everyone to know that he's not crazy. I have the
> > same problem. I have older Enloop (non-pro) ones and the + nub
> > is slightly longer, and they work. The battery nub is too short.
>
> That's not only in the Magic Mouse this happens. It can happen
> everywhere in any battery driven devices - keyboards, mice, trackpads,
> trackballs...
>
And weather stations. I've noted that it's mainly rechargable batteries
> h...@brettpeary.com wrote:
> > I just want everyone to know that he's not crazy. I have the
> > same problem. I have older Enloop (non-pro) ones and the + nub
> > is slightly longer, and they work. The battery nub is too short.
>
> That's not only in the Magic Mouse this happens. It can happen
> everywhere in any battery driven devices - keyboards, mice, trackpads,
> trackballs...
>
that have too short + nubs, making it even more annoying.
My solution i Magic Mouse is to stuff the gap with a few layers of
aluminum foil. This works for most batteries.
--
I recommend Macs to my friends, and Windows machines
to those whom I don't mind billing by the hour
jeremy...@gmail.com
Apr 18, 2020, 12:26:03 AM4/18/20
to
I figured it out! I finally got my eneloop pros to work with my Magic Mouse!
I too was having the same problem where my regular Eneloops were working with my Magic Mouse, but my Eneloop pros refused to work no matter what. No matter what I did, the Eneloop pros would not get that green light to turn on.
So I decided to have a good long hard look at the mouse and the batteries. Then the light bulb hit.
h...@brettpeary.com was right, the nubs on the Eneloop PRO are too short. The only reason why it does not work with the Magic Mouse is because of the design. The area where the nub (positive end) is meant to go into, has a recess. This recess is too deep the nub to reach all the way in. So no matter the overall length of the AA, if the nub is too short, it isn't going to make contact because of the recess.
I fixed this problem by filling the recess with foil. Works like a dream now.
I too was having the same problem where my regular Eneloops were working with my Magic Mouse, but my Eneloop pros refused to work no matter what. No matter what I did, the Eneloop pros would not get that green light to turn on.
So I decided to have a good long hard look at the mouse and the batteries. Then the light bulb hit.
h...@brettpeary.com was right, the nubs on the Eneloop PRO are too short. The only reason why it does not work with the Magic Mouse is because of the design. The area where the nub (positive end) is meant to go into, has a recess. This recess is too deep the nub to reach all the way in. So no matter the overall length of the AA, if the nub is too short, it isn't going to make contact because of the recess.
I fixed this problem by filling the recess with foil. Works like a dream now.
Your Name
Apr 18, 2020, 2:19:51 AM4/18/20
to
On 2020-04-18 04:26:02 +0000, jeremy...@gmail.com said:
>
> I figured it out! I finally got my eneloop pros to work with my Magic Mouse!
>
> I too was having the same problem where my regular Eneloops were
> working with my Magic Mouse, but my Eneloop pros refused to work no
> matter what. No matter what I did, the Eneloop pros would not get that
> green light to turn on.So I decided to have a good long hard look at
>
> I figured it out! I finally got my eneloop pros to work with my Magic Mouse!
>
> I too was having the same problem where my regular Eneloops were
> working with my Magic Mouse, but my Eneloop pros refused to work no
> matter what. No matter what I did, the Eneloop pros would not get that
> the mouse and the batteries. Then the light bulb hit.
> h...@brettpeary.com was right, the nubs on the Eneloop PRO are too
> short. The only reason why it does not work with the Magic Mouse is
> because of the design. The area where the nub (positive end) is meant
> to go into, has a recess. This recess is too deep the nub to reach all
> the way in. So no matter the overall length of the AA, if the nub is
> too short, it isn't going to make contact because of the recess.
> I fixed this problem by filling the recess with foil. Works like a dream now.
Yep. Despite the supposed official "standard" sizes of AA, AAA, C etc.,
> h...@brettpeary.com was right, the nubs on the Eneloop PRO are too
> short. The only reason why it does not work with the Magic Mouse is
> because of the design. The area where the nub (positive end) is meant
> to go into, has a recess. This recess is too deep the nub to reach all
> the way in. So no matter the overall length of the AA, if the nub is
> too short, it isn't going to make contact because of the recess.
> I fixed this problem by filling the recess with foil. Works like a dream now.
not all batteries are actually created equal.
ktd...@gmail.com
Jun 26, 2020, 1:26:01 AM6/26/20
to
On Saturday, 18 April 2020 13:26:03 UTC+9, jeremy...@gmail.com wrote:
> I fixed this problem by filling the recess with foil. Works like a dream now.
Spot on dude. Thanks to you I now have a working magic mouse.
> I fixed this problem by filling the recess with foil. Works like a dream now.
I nearly threw It out if it wasn't for you ^^.
Battery I was trying to use was AmazonBasic AA size.
After taking a closer look at the battery I noticed it's positive end was slightly shorter. Filled it up with foil and all is good.
Cheers,
fmanda...@gmail.com
Jul 3, 2020, 3:28:07 PM7/3/20
to
thank you, my friend!
this solution worked fine here
regards
Marco Mosimann
Feb 12, 2021, 5:15:15 AM2/12/21
to
Thanks
Jack Taylor
Apr 24, 2021, 2:38:50 PM4/24/21
to
Marc Sadamme
Jul 5, 2021, 3:45:25 AM7/5/21
to
after closer inspection it turned out: the rechargables nub is too BROAD/thick compared with the regulars. That's what it needs the foil bridge for at the positive end. Holding the mouse upright while inserting foil and batteries took only two attempts to make it all fit in and: finally work.
This kept me busy for some weeks now, trying different rechargables and borrowing neighbours chargers unwilling to buy regular batteries again …
Thanks for bringing me on the right track with the foil idea!
Message has been deleted
Ross Boone
Aug 8, 2022, 11:25:39 AM8/8/22
to
Yep, most batteries nubs are too short. found some tin foil to fill the gap between the nubs and the contact and finally got the green light!
Your Name
Aug 8, 2022, 5:28:14 PM8/8/22
to
On 2022-08-08 15:25:38 +0000, Ross Boone said:
>
> Yep, most batteries nubs are too short. found some tin foil to fill the
> gap between the nubs and the contact and finally got the green light!
The problem is the supposed battery "standards" (AA, AAA, 9-volt, etc.)
>
> Yep, most batteries nubs are too short. found some tin foil to fill the
> gap between the nubs and the contact and finally got the green light!
are not even remotely actually standard - the various makers do
different things. Batteries not fitting properly is certainly not
unique to Apple's devices.
David Brooks
Aug 9, 2022, 6:16:18 AM8/9/22
to
On 08/08/2022 16:25, Ross Boone wrote:
> Yep, most batteries nubs are too short. found some tin foil to fill the gap between the nubs and the contact and finally got the green light!
What prompted you to respond to such an old post, Ross?
> Yep, most batteries nubs are too short. found some tin foil to fill the gap between the nubs and the contact and finally got the green light!
Regardless, it's good to hear that you got your old Magic Mouse to
function. The newer ones, of course, are themselves 'chargeable'!
--
Kind regards,
David B.
Myron Rosenberg
Jan 4, 2023, 3:51:06 AM1/4/23
to
After reading through this thread, and having experienced a failure of rechargeable batteries not working in my Magic Mouse I, I reflected that they did work in my TV remote, suggesting that they had a charge. Here's the solution that I discovered, and how. I just posted this on Facebook. I'd like to hear that it NOW helps.
To whom it may concern:
I have a (wireless) Magic Mouse I for my Mac computer. Fatiguing from changing its AA batteries and, coincidentally and inadvertently, running out of them, I ordered some rechargeable batteries online. They did not work in the mouse, but they did work in my TV remote. This told me that they had a charge and, after a few days of repeated attempts to get them to work in my mouse, I went looking', both online. There, I saw comments that some batteries didn't work in the mouse, and I wondered why, if they, indeed, had a charge.
In the vernacular of the space age, and in deference to U.S. Astronauts, I buckled down and 'worked the problem'. In scrutinizing the rechargeable one, I noticed it had a subtle difference from the normal battery. The bottom was a bit flatter, and the positive post was not as pronounced. Somewhere, I saw where someone had suggested using aluminum foil to assure connectivity. After the addition of small balled pieces at that diminutive end, WHALLAH!
If even one of you is helped by this, and don't go out and buy a ton of disposable batteries, I'd be pleased to know. I was all set to invest in the newest rechargeable mouse, plus the wall plug (which doesn't come with it. So I've saved $85...and I hear this mouse is only good for 3 years, with it's rechargeable battery not being replaceable... That phrase, 'WORK THE PROBLEM', from 'Apollo 13' stuck in my head!
To whom it may concern:
I have a (wireless) Magic Mouse I for my Mac computer. Fatiguing from changing its AA batteries and, coincidentally and inadvertently, running out of them, I ordered some rechargeable batteries online. They did not work in the mouse, but they did work in my TV remote. This told me that they had a charge and, after a few days of repeated attempts to get them to work in my mouse, I went looking', both online. There, I saw comments that some batteries didn't work in the mouse, and I wondered why, if they, indeed, had a charge.
In the vernacular of the space age, and in deference to U.S. Astronauts, I buckled down and 'worked the problem'. In scrutinizing the rechargeable one, I noticed it had a subtle difference from the normal battery. The bottom was a bit flatter, and the positive post was not as pronounced. Somewhere, I saw where someone had suggested using aluminum foil to assure connectivity. After the addition of small balled pieces at that diminutive end, WHALLAH!
If even one of you is helped by this, and don't go out and buy a ton of disposable batteries, I'd be pleased to know. I was all set to invest in the newest rechargeable mouse, plus the wall plug (which doesn't come with it. So I've saved $85...and I hear this mouse is only good for 3 years, with it's rechargeable battery not being replaceable... That phrase, 'WORK THE PROBLEM', from 'Apollo 13' stuck in my head!
Jonathan Machado
Jul 14, 2023, 5:54:03 AM7/14/23
to
For me is clear that the Nubs on the positive side are too short. Some batteries do not work.
In my case, only the right side of the mouse is not connecting (+ side), because of the short nub. I have two types of rechargeable AA Battery, one with long nub (old) that I use on the right side and a short one in the left.
I'm thinking of putting some solder to fix the issue.
Regards,
In my case, only the right side of the mouse is not connecting (+ side), because of the short nub. I have two types of rechargeable AA Battery, one with long nub (old) that I use on the right side and a short one in the left.
I'm thinking of putting some solder to fix the issue.
Regards,
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