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Creality Slicer Download Older Version
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Gertrud Inabinet
Dec 27, 2023, 8:07:35 PM12/27/23
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Hello, I was just given a 3d printer by a friend (Ender 3) and I have no clue how to use it. I was given an instructions manual which directs me to www.creality3d.cn but this site is broken for me on any device I try to log on. I went to the Creality slicer download page but that only downloads BIN files for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated
I find that compared with Cura some models prints a lot faster when sliced with the creality-slicer that was shiped with my Ender 3 pro. Creality slicer is a customized version of an early Cura version, so I find that strange.
This model ends up with more than double estimated print time!!!
creality slicer download older version
Download File https://3rine-bia.blogspot.com/?uw=2wXsRe
Wow - that "gcode analyser" is very cool. Never saw that before. Did you put the correct values in for acceleration and jerk and such? I think you can get those values possibly out of the menu system on the creality? Is it accurate for your printer? I find that these time estimates can be off by 2X because you may have the wrong value somewhere.
I sort of stumbled upon that analyser in the search for an explanation here ? I found the combing settings in creality after your tip to check the menues. It was set to "all" in creality and "not in skin" in cura. Changing it to "all" did not do any difference. I'm not able, however, to find Jerk and Acceleration in creality. Combing Its not easy to compare settings in those two, because Creality do have fewer settings. I did print the creality sliced slug and that was 5:16 in actual print time, so that closes the gap with one hour. I will do a print with cura too, just to check how "off" the estimates are.
It clearly is two different ways of printing the same STL-file. I would love to find why this is happening. I did find a couple of settings that is different: One is the top and bottom/top thicknes the other was combing mode. none of them made any difference. I will do a printout of the cura sliced slug to find out how much off the cura-estimate is. The creality print used 5:16, so one more hour than estimated.
Beeing a newbe here, I learn a lot from you guys!! I will look into the factors you point out. I did the testprint with the cura sliced gcodefile, and it took 10:13. Then i used the pen-move feature in cura and made a video of a the nozzle behaviour. Then i imported the gcode from creality slicer and did screncapture from that too. I can see that cura is making this extra line (yellow) inbetween the walls. Is this the 3-passes you are talking about gr5 And i guess this can explain this extra length too?
(I fasttracked creality one a bit to get to about the same spot on both)
It seem to be strong and good print the one from creality slicer, so i think those settings are fine for this model. Do you know what the dynamic quality profile does? It seems that this profile print the model with variable line width (?)
I would love to learn what setting that is on to make it "dynamic quality". Somehow the line width property does not apply or at least only serves as a base-setting?
Oh by solid you mean it was 100% infill? There are two settings that would affect that - one is the number of top and bottom layers (those will always be solid) the other is the infill percent. You can see how solid it will be inside by dragging the slicer on the right side of the sliced preview.
Stay with CURA. Creality Print is basically an older version of CURA with a few modifications. Creality claims that you need to use Creality Print to get the best quality from a Creality printer. This is absolutely not true. I just did a back to back print with first one as CP and next one with CURA and my CURA print was by far a much better print.
I have been tinkering a lot lately (not with reality print) I have found that new and older versions of Cora and Prusaslicer all do different things slightly and print at different speeds. The odd part is one model that cura prints faster that PS a different model with the same settings will be faster.
Prusa Slicer and Cura both do the same things equally well, they both use the same slicer engiine. They tend to leap frog each other with upgrades so if one of them comes out with a new feature the other will have it soon. It all comes down to which interface you prefer.
Hello; recently, I bought a creality 3D printer, model LD-002 (not R, not H, just 002, please see picture attached). Printer comes with a USB stick that contains creality slicer, which, in my opinion, is very limited in many aspects, specially supports. I see that the printer does not recognizes files exported from Chitubox, only the ones exported from its slicer, which are exported into PNGZIP or some weird extension.
Cura says "OctoPrint error Cannot upload to SD card, not yet initialized"
But clicking "Initialize SD card" in OctoPrint does nothing. (Yes, the card is in the printer and the printer sees it AND can print from it.)
Octoprint also asks for a "slicer profile" but will not accept one from the version of Cura I have.
Honestly, does this even work?
So far simply using the slicer software that came with the printer and plopping the slided filed on the Micro SD card seems to work just fine. I just got tired of running up and down my basement stars to check on print progress.
The G-code files are generated on desktop(s) and transferred using a browser on each desktop. The printing can be monitored (and controlled) using the browser on any desktop (or tablet or phone). Many slicers (Cura included) actually have the ability to "act like a browser" to control and monitor the progress of OctoPrint directly. This control and monitor feature of the slicer is an extension of their ability to do so when the printer is connected to the desktop directly with a USB cable.
My normal mode of operation is to use the "Save G-code to a file" option in the slicer and then use a browser to upload the file to OctoPrint. After starting a print via the browser, I can close the slicer or move on to another slicing project. If I have nothing else to do on the desktop, I can move to the living room to watch TV or read a book while monitoring the progress of the printer with my cell phone or tablet.
I use the Creality slicer software that came with the printer to create the G-code (as it seems to work much better than Cura) and save the output to my PC then upload it via the browser. I have not had much luck with Cura let alone getting to integrate with Octoprint.
I installed the gantry first. It fits into slots on the base unit and is held in place with 2 screws and 2 bolts on each side. Then I fitted the hotend assembly onto the X gantry with four screws. The control screen bolts to the side with 3 screws and the spool holder snaps into place on the top.
I currently only have access to an old, 32 bit OS and need to slice a couple things. While there are a lot of slicers around, most popular ones, for example Ultimaker Cura 4, need to run on a 64 bit operation system.
Slic3r 1.3.0 is open source, available as 32 and 64-bit versions, and was released in November 2018, making it somewhat up to date. You need to customize a lot of settings in it, but it is after all quite a powerful slicer - for which you have to write your own Start Code, define your filament settings and machine.
At $399, the S1 version of the Ender-3 is about $100 more then older versions but includes so many upgrades and quality of life features that it qualifies as a great beginner-friendly, plug-and-play printer. Mostly.
I was using the stock version of Cura, the popular free 3D-slicing program (slicers are used to prep 3D models for printing), and the default settings were clearly not fine-tuned for the Ender-3 S1. Creality offers a custom version of that software, renamed Creality Slicer, and using it solved the problem immediately. I still intend to go back and get the regular Cura settings adjusted as well, though.
For 3D FDM printing, the STL model needs to be translated by a"slicer", whichdecides how to move the X / Y / Z axes of the printer to producea physical representation of the model, and produces a GCode fileto instruct the printer on what to do. In software terms the STLfile is the source code, the slicer is the compiler, and the GCodeis the executable file (which is one reason why GCode from unknownsources cannot be completely trusted; see above).
I decided to start with Cura because Maker's Muse found that theCura slicer chose movement paths that better reduced filamentstringing on the Creality Ender3, ThomasPietrowski maintains an Ubuntu PPAfor Cura (stableversion),and several makers published Cura profiles for the Ender 3 thatworked for them, so it seemed like a good place to start. Whilewriting this blog post, I also found another guide to tuning Curafor the Ender 3 --6mm extruder retraction at 25mm/s, without z-hop, seems to be themagic setting to reduce stringing, resulting in a slight "nozzlewipe" over the part. (These days Creality ship a Microsoft Windowsonly "Creality Slicer" which I have not used; but as far as I cantell Creality used to ship withCura, whichis another reason to start with Cura for the Ender 3.)
Unfortunately the latest releases of Cura 4.x will not run on olderUbuntu versions,including Ubuntu 16.04 LTS and Ubuntu 18.04 LTS, because they relyon newer QT library functions. However with a bit of tweaking, Iwas able to get Cura running in an Ubuntu 19.04("Disco") Docker image, usingThomas's Ubuntu PPA packages, following the approach of SteveBaker, but updated to alater Ubuntu version and a later Curaversion, and with somestartup tweaks. (My cura-dockerrepository.)
Cura does not have an Ender 3 S1 profile or for the Ender 3 S1 Pro. So people stick with the Creality slicer (older version of Cura rebranded) or they use Cura's Ender 3 Pro profile and then adjust the machine settings and import profiles or they try out Prusa slicer which has a E3S1 profile.
35fe9a5643
I find that compared with Cura some models prints a lot faster when sliced with the creality-slicer that was shiped with my Ender 3 pro. Creality slicer is a customized version of an early Cura version, so I find that strange.
This model ends up with more than double estimated print time!!!
creality slicer download older version
Download File https://3rine-bia.blogspot.com/?uw=2wXsRe
Wow - that "gcode analyser" is very cool. Never saw that before. Did you put the correct values in for acceleration and jerk and such? I think you can get those values possibly out of the menu system on the creality? Is it accurate for your printer? I find that these time estimates can be off by 2X because you may have the wrong value somewhere.
I sort of stumbled upon that analyser in the search for an explanation here ? I found the combing settings in creality after your tip to check the menues. It was set to "all" in creality and "not in skin" in cura. Changing it to "all" did not do any difference. I'm not able, however, to find Jerk and Acceleration in creality. Combing Its not easy to compare settings in those two, because Creality do have fewer settings. I did print the creality sliced slug and that was 5:16 in actual print time, so that closes the gap with one hour. I will do a print with cura too, just to check how "off" the estimates are.
It clearly is two different ways of printing the same STL-file. I would love to find why this is happening. I did find a couple of settings that is different: One is the top and bottom/top thicknes the other was combing mode. none of them made any difference. I will do a printout of the cura sliced slug to find out how much off the cura-estimate is. The creality print used 5:16, so one more hour than estimated.
Beeing a newbe here, I learn a lot from you guys!! I will look into the factors you point out. I did the testprint with the cura sliced gcodefile, and it took 10:13. Then i used the pen-move feature in cura and made a video of a the nozzle behaviour. Then i imported the gcode from creality slicer and did screncapture from that too. I can see that cura is making this extra line (yellow) inbetween the walls. Is this the 3-passes you are talking about gr5 And i guess this can explain this extra length too?
(I fasttracked creality one a bit to get to about the same spot on both)
It seem to be strong and good print the one from creality slicer, so i think those settings are fine for this model. Do you know what the dynamic quality profile does? It seems that this profile print the model with variable line width (?)
I would love to learn what setting that is on to make it "dynamic quality". Somehow the line width property does not apply or at least only serves as a base-setting?
Oh by solid you mean it was 100% infill? There are two settings that would affect that - one is the number of top and bottom layers (those will always be solid) the other is the infill percent. You can see how solid it will be inside by dragging the slicer on the right side of the sliced preview.
Stay with CURA. Creality Print is basically an older version of CURA with a few modifications. Creality claims that you need to use Creality Print to get the best quality from a Creality printer. This is absolutely not true. I just did a back to back print with first one as CP and next one with CURA and my CURA print was by far a much better print.
I have been tinkering a lot lately (not with reality print) I have found that new and older versions of Cora and Prusaslicer all do different things slightly and print at different speeds. The odd part is one model that cura prints faster that PS a different model with the same settings will be faster.
Prusa Slicer and Cura both do the same things equally well, they both use the same slicer engiine. They tend to leap frog each other with upgrades so if one of them comes out with a new feature the other will have it soon. It all comes down to which interface you prefer.
Hello; recently, I bought a creality 3D printer, model LD-002 (not R, not H, just 002, please see picture attached). Printer comes with a USB stick that contains creality slicer, which, in my opinion, is very limited in many aspects, specially supports. I see that the printer does not recognizes files exported from Chitubox, only the ones exported from its slicer, which are exported into PNGZIP or some weird extension.
Cura says "OctoPrint error Cannot upload to SD card, not yet initialized"
But clicking "Initialize SD card" in OctoPrint does nothing. (Yes, the card is in the printer and the printer sees it AND can print from it.)
Octoprint also asks for a "slicer profile" but will not accept one from the version of Cura I have.
Honestly, does this even work?
So far simply using the slicer software that came with the printer and plopping the slided filed on the Micro SD card seems to work just fine. I just got tired of running up and down my basement stars to check on print progress.
The G-code files are generated on desktop(s) and transferred using a browser on each desktop. The printing can be monitored (and controlled) using the browser on any desktop (or tablet or phone). Many slicers (Cura included) actually have the ability to "act like a browser" to control and monitor the progress of OctoPrint directly. This control and monitor feature of the slicer is an extension of their ability to do so when the printer is connected to the desktop directly with a USB cable.
My normal mode of operation is to use the "Save G-code to a file" option in the slicer and then use a browser to upload the file to OctoPrint. After starting a print via the browser, I can close the slicer or move on to another slicing project. If I have nothing else to do on the desktop, I can move to the living room to watch TV or read a book while monitoring the progress of the printer with my cell phone or tablet.
I use the Creality slicer software that came with the printer to create the G-code (as it seems to work much better than Cura) and save the output to my PC then upload it via the browser. I have not had much luck with Cura let alone getting to integrate with Octoprint.
I installed the gantry first. It fits into slots on the base unit and is held in place with 2 screws and 2 bolts on each side. Then I fitted the hotend assembly onto the X gantry with four screws. The control screen bolts to the side with 3 screws and the spool holder snaps into place on the top.
I currently only have access to an old, 32 bit OS and need to slice a couple things. While there are a lot of slicers around, most popular ones, for example Ultimaker Cura 4, need to run on a 64 bit operation system.
Slic3r 1.3.0 is open source, available as 32 and 64-bit versions, and was released in November 2018, making it somewhat up to date. You need to customize a lot of settings in it, but it is after all quite a powerful slicer - for which you have to write your own Start Code, define your filament settings and machine.
At $399, the S1 version of the Ender-3 is about $100 more then older versions but includes so many upgrades and quality of life features that it qualifies as a great beginner-friendly, plug-and-play printer. Mostly.
I was using the stock version of Cura, the popular free 3D-slicing program (slicers are used to prep 3D models for printing), and the default settings were clearly not fine-tuned for the Ender-3 S1. Creality offers a custom version of that software, renamed Creality Slicer, and using it solved the problem immediately. I still intend to go back and get the regular Cura settings adjusted as well, though.
For 3D FDM printing, the STL model needs to be translated by a"slicer", whichdecides how to move the X / Y / Z axes of the printer to producea physical representation of the model, and produces a GCode fileto instruct the printer on what to do. In software terms the STLfile is the source code, the slicer is the compiler, and the GCodeis the executable file (which is one reason why GCode from unknownsources cannot be completely trusted; see above).
I decided to start with Cura because Maker's Muse found that theCura slicer chose movement paths that better reduced filamentstringing on the Creality Ender3, ThomasPietrowski maintains an Ubuntu PPAfor Cura (stableversion),and several makers published Cura profiles for the Ender 3 thatworked for them, so it seemed like a good place to start. Whilewriting this blog post, I also found another guide to tuning Curafor the Ender 3 --6mm extruder retraction at 25mm/s, without z-hop, seems to be themagic setting to reduce stringing, resulting in a slight "nozzlewipe" over the part. (These days Creality ship a Microsoft Windowsonly "Creality Slicer" which I have not used; but as far as I cantell Creality used to ship withCura, whichis another reason to start with Cura for the Ender 3.)
Unfortunately the latest releases of Cura 4.x will not run on olderUbuntu versions,including Ubuntu 16.04 LTS and Ubuntu 18.04 LTS, because they relyon newer QT library functions. However with a bit of tweaking, Iwas able to get Cura running in an Ubuntu 19.04("Disco") Docker image, usingThomas's Ubuntu PPA packages, following the approach of SteveBaker, but updated to alater Ubuntu version and a later Curaversion, and with somestartup tweaks. (My cura-dockerrepository.)
Cura does not have an Ender 3 S1 profile or for the Ender 3 S1 Pro. So people stick with the Creality slicer (older version of Cura rebranded) or they use Cura's Ender 3 Pro profile and then adjust the machine settings and import profiles or they try out Prusa slicer which has a E3S1 profile.
35fe9a5643
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